Jump to content

Mark Dunn

Basic Member
  • Posts

    3,696
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Mark Dunn

  1. I cement spliced at first but dropped it like a hot brick when I was recommended the CIR. Cement splices cannot fail to be more visible as you literally cut a frame in half. If you want to make a new splice you have to cut out two frames, which on an original are gone forever. Even if my Super-8 days were not long over I would certainly never go back.
  2. Yes, that's the Rolls-Royce version at about €600? which is why most people (and we) have the cheaper version. Unfortunately the pins are fixed so as you say you can get a gap, but you may be able to adjust the frameline on the projector so it doesn't show. I believe the 2T may have adjustable pins, but it's no longer listed on the CIR site. I've never seen one on eBay.
  3. Assuming it's the model of splicer with the wrap-around tape, I find (well, found, I haven't cut S8 for 20 years) that taping only one side of the film is sufficient. This reduces the visibility of the splice. You then trim off the excess tape flush with the film edge with sharp scissors. I can't remember which side to tape but it's the side that doesn't face the projector gate, so that the splice doesn't lift the film from the gate and put it out of focus. On a reversal original IIRC you would usually tape the emulsion side. The splice is weaker than one on both sides, sure, and the tape may eventually dry out, but I've never had one break and some of mine are over 40 years old. There was a professional Super-8 CIR which taped each side separately, as you would in 16mm., but they're rare and expensive.
  4. If it's like the BL, you push it out, away from the spool, and it will lock in position out of the way.
  5. Non-expert here. When I pull it into Lightroom and white balance on the white pipe, it reads as not so much green as very deficient in blue- something like R66, G67, B42%. The original does look quite green but it's not so noticeable when corrected. Lightroom puts a substantial magenta tint on it. I wonder if it's an effect of the mixed daylight/gelled HMI. Or it just looks green beside the warm colour of the wood and her jumper.
  6. Isn't that going to make for some rather "strobey" rendering of movement? Compared with the usual 1/60-1/80 sec.
  7. Were you to follow that advice you'd be tending to exaggerate the effect that the film-maker intended. There can be a bit of a wide-angle effect when you sit close to the screen, but if it's too pronounced I'd say the seats had been put too close. The projector lens can't have any influence on the perspective in the scene. The focal length is chosen to fill the screen at the prescribed distance, nothing more.
  8. Quite impressive that the Hasselblad lenses cover what is effectively 6x7cm, territory they never trespassed on. Beside the Planar the Mamiya RB 90mm. is a bit of a brick- no-one seems to be converting them for 15/70 lol. My 500C has been in its box for over 20 years now.
  9. You do have a fault, but this is normal. You only see through the viewfinder when the shutter is closed- that's how a mirror shutter works.
  10. Stocks with the suffix "pan" (short for panchromatic, referring to the sensitivity to colour) are always B/W.
  11. That suggests to me that it should be permanently lit but the bulb (or LED) has failed.
  12. The clear area is due to insufficient solution- the emulsion just wasn't covered. The marks in (4) I would say are drying marks, so uneven drying/ not enough wetting agent or inadequate water removal. Of course, reversal hasn't happened at all.
  13. As Simon says, they're storage reels for microfilm. http://microfilmproducts.com/catalog/storage-reels/ If Foma are using them for camera film, they're cheating a bit.
  14. It is indeed IMO the beam-splitter- the view is off-axis so it doesn't appear as a full rectangle. I can look into the lens of my S-8 camera and see something very similar. It's where it should be; whatever else may have happened, you haven't damaged it.
  15. I'm not a cinematographer but will take a shot at this. If on film, the newer cameras (Arri 435?) can ramp up the speed and open the iris or shutter to match so it's unnoticeable. On digital the take will be acquired at the higher framing rate and the required part extracted at 24.
  16. It's surprising how much can be recovered by a good colourist- that Cybill Shepherd scene still has a bit of blue left. But no-one's buying it to scan and correct- you could just buy the DVD. Film collectors must just want the actual stuff in their hands, no matter what the condition.
  17. Rock-steady Techniscope home movies and Cliff Richard. This is summer in the city, for sure.
  18. This sounds like a lazy take-up drive. It should pull just hard enough to keep the wind tight regardless of whether a spool or core is used. It needs looking at, because you might get cinch marks when it finally pulls tight, or at worst the slack could jam on the spool flange.
  19. If it's on the front or back surface- it's easy to tell- you could try isopropyl alcohol. I cleaned a 'Scope adapter this way once. You may be lucky if it's the right sort of fungus, and used sparingly you won't cause any damage to the lens or yourself- IPA is much nicer than peroxide.
  20. If you have the option of a 1/4" screw, I have a 1/4" adapter sleeve in mine. The mounting is quite adequate. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-14-to-38-tripod-thread-adapter.html You should be able to find something in the US for a coupla bucks. One of my tripods (admittedly it's an amateur one) has a locking collar below the plate so you can control how much of the tripod screw protrudes. If yours doesn't have this you may have to do as Dom suggests, or if it has an inset, as another of mine does, replace it with one with a shallower screw. It may seem inadequate, but three turns of thread is quite normal for 1/4" and 3/8" tripods. I think 1/4" is sufficient up to the weight of a K3.
  21. All cameras have a pulldown claw- it's how the film is moved through the gate. Do you mean something else? If the image is unsteady, and you're sure you loaded it correctly, the camera may need adjustment, cleaning and lubrication.
  22. Maybe PM the OP- the model number will be on a plate on the back. I think it's a ST900, in which case it will probably need DR70 DR79 DR83 2 off DR98 but do check with Dwight at cutfilm.com
×
×
  • Create New...