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  1. Hi Guys I have a Angenieux 12-120 that i picked up for pretty cheap Cosmetics are good and so are the zoom and focus. But she is suffering from some fungus that looks like it could be on multiple elements. Is she worth getting cleaned or not with the time? Can anyone give me a price on what this would cost or make a recommendation on who I should go to. Thanks Cody
  2. I recently picked up a Bolex Unimotor with the Transformer box, but I'm a little unclear on how the box works. There are three pegs and multiple holes and I don't know what the results of the different combinations in the holes are. Does anyone know more about it or have a manual for it? I'm also missing the terminal plate that's used for hooking the motor up to 6v batteries in the case if anyone has an idea of where to get one or how to maybe come up with an alternative (I have the case, just not the terminal plate)
  3. Does anyone out there know of someone in Toronto that has the ability to service a Bolex H16? I recently received an old Bolex to my great delight as a gift that I want to shoot on and I have the resources (stock, access to processing, ect.) to do it, but it seems that the camera needs a bit of care in order to get it running again. It winds, the motor runs, and film moves through it properly, the issue though is that it does not keep a constant speed and will slow down at the end of the wind or if it’s in the middle of a roll of film, move very slowly as though the motor is weak. I don’t know nearly enough about the inner workings of this piece of gear in order to consider opening it up and I think that most likely it needs to be cleaned and lubricated. I’m hoping to find someone in the city to do it because I don’t have the money to ship it off somewhere else and get it serviced. It’s also a non-reflex model so it is quite old and I don’t know the history behind it so I can only assume it’s been a very long time since it’s received proper care.
  4. Hi, I'm looking to shoot my first 16mm short with a Bolex H-16. Going for a cinema-verite/60's avantgarde feel in terms of low light/natural light. Nearly all of the shots will be interior at night. Going for a look very similar to the scene below from 1:40 to 2:07 Curious to see if anyone can narrow down what film stock was used for this (or what similar stocks made today could work in a similar way)?? Also any idea what f.stop he was shooting at in said scene would be helpful as well! Thanks!
  5. Hi cinema lovers, I've been a lurker on these forms for a while now, and I'm not sure if this is the right place, but but this is my first post! I'm a 3rd year film student at Falmouth University (UK) and I'm directing a short film called Philistine. I'm here to both share with you my kickstarter and receive any valuable information/tips on shooting with film (it's my first time). We'll be shooting on a Bolex H16, using Kodak 16mm Double X Black & White Negative (7222). It's Tungsten 200 and Daylight 250. SYNOPSIS: Cinema projectionist Marcelle works for an independent, arthouse, and old-school cinema. Though, the theatre is forced to close and he’s made redundant; the digital age has no use for disciples of the past. Down on his luck, his fate is bettered after an encounter with a young woman, Anna. His optimism is short-lived, though, and he becomes the victim of a different kind... On the surface Philistine is about a cinema projectionist who loses his job, but deeper down it's a film about film, cinema history, and a respect for the past. My viewpoint is that we, the younger generations, are becoming detached from the history of cinema - which I feel is a bad thing. Although the topic is dramatic, and when written "loses his job" sounds like a cliche student drama, the narrative and stylistic approach is absurd, abstract, playful, comical and shocking. As I'm posting on a cinematography forum comprised of cinema lovers, I assume it may mean something to you when I say that both the writing and directing of Philistine have taken heavy inspiration from the work of the French New Wave. For those that aren't familiar, their stance was particularly anti-Hollywood, and so they would make their films in the most rogue fashion possible; both in terms of narrative and technical approach. This is something I too believe in. I also feel as if many student films are the same (partly down to the use of the same cameras and partly down to their pursuit of replicating formulaic narrative and stylistic hollywood standards) and so with this film, and anything I create in general, I tried to stray as far from the 'norm' as possible. I hope that people see that in the kickstarter. 16MM FILM: The choice to shoot on 16mm was there from (almost) the very beginning. Following from the birth of the concept - old-school celluloid cinema projectionist being ousted by the digital - I knew that it would be hypocritical of me not to shoot on film. It's a film about film and the impact that the easily accessible digital has on it. And so, not only does film LOOK beautiful, it serves the story. I flirted with the thought for a while until I saw a 16mm film that my tutor had made and was promoting. After research I gathered some figures to see if this dream was actually possible; and it is, though I can't do it on my own. What's more, after seeing the 'Kodak deal' go down in February of this year ("Disney, Fox, Paramount, Sony, NBC Universal and Warner Bros all pledge to continue buying filmstock from the company, even as the majority of directors and cinemas choose to go digital"), I feel now more than ever it is important that we, the younger generations, keep film alive. BUDGET: The proposed budget for the kickstarter is £2000. Film costs (stock, camera, development) comes to just over half of that at £1100. Now, film in the digital age is of course an aesthetic choice, and we could easily just use a RED digital camera, but I hope those of you reading do see the reason for and passion behind the use of film for Philistine. The camera rental company and developing lab are extremely enthusiastic about my choice to shoot on film and are really helpful in answering questions and teaching us and taking us through the process. If any of you like the sound of my film and could spare some change towards it we'd be forever grateful; we have a lot of money to make in short amount of time and so every little helps! All feedback is welcome and thanks for your time! KODAK DEAL ARTICLE: http://www.theguardian.com/film/2015/feb/05/film-studios-kodak-deal KICKSTARTER: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/sophiehurry/philistine-16mm-short-film?ref=video FACEBOOK:https://www.facebook.com/PhilistineFilm/?fref=ts TWITTER: https://twitter.com/PhilistineFilm
  6. Is it just the eyepiece itself? Something internal to the viewfinder? Jean-Louis? Dom?
  7. So I'm pretty new to 16mm stuff, I've gradually been making the switch from digital. It's been pretty fun. Right now I'm using a Bolex as my A-Cam and two old Keystones as my crash cams. Yeah, I'm working on filling the gap between those two, but that's not the point. One thing that I've given up since making the switch was my anamorphic lenses. I love them to pieces, they're just awesome. However, I've had trouble finding a conclusive solution for a c mount anamorphic lens. It's kind of frustrating, and I was wondering what my options realistically are. I've heard several different ideas on this forum, one of which is using projector lenses. I've never really had to do that, so would that be a good option? I don't know that I've encountered much projection glass well-suited for shooting, but maybe I just haven't seen enough. I would really like to stay away from anamorphic adapters. I guess if that's the best option then I can use them, but I've always stuck to the real thing. Last thing, cost is a big factor here. I'm a big fan of quality glass, but I don't use these cameras enough to drop a lot of money on one lens. So if that means I should just get a lens adapter and use some cheap anamorphic glass for a different mount, I can do that. I just want to know what my options are for an adapter-less setup, if that's even possible. Thanks much!
  8. Hallo cinematographers. I have been following this forum for a while, but this is my first post here. I found a Bolex H16 REX3 that works flawlessly, but it came with a Rex-O-Fader installed which I want to get rid of, but it seems I'm not able to. I proceeded following the installing instructions (in reverse) by unscrewing the locking screw and the rewind handle, but the Rex-O-Fader doesn't come out, since is kept in place by the small cog or sprocket where the rewind handle is screwed in. From what I can understand by watching at pictures on the web (Rex-O-Fader instructions don't help) the cog should stay screwed on the rewind handle (which seems it is a special handle and not the normal one). In my case instead, the cog stays screwed on the rewind spindle, where it seems is stuck. After removing the Rex-O-Fader cover (by removing the four small screws) I unsuccessfully tried to unscrew the cog (turning clockwise, of course), also with the aid of pliers, but of course I didn't dare to apply too much force, fearing to damage the cog itself or the motor spring. Anybody can help me? thanks Livio
  9. Hi. I am selling my Bolex H16 EL kit based in the UK. Please check out the EBAY link if you are interested, thanks. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301706573491?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649 :)
  10. I recently obtained this camera from an old friend, and I was looking to date it, but from what I've found, I cannot find serial dates starting with my numbers (140000). Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  11. Super 8 kit for sale. All carefully serviced, film tested, with clear lenses and in fully working, near mint condition. Minolta XL-84 - £149.99 (RL button intentionally removed) Canon AF514XL-S - £124.99 Canon 514XL-S + 43mm C8 wide lens - £99.99 Sankyo XL-620 - £99.99 Sankyo XL-420 - £74.99 Bolex Aspheron 4mm (55mm thread) Wide Lens - £34.99 Canon 43mm C8 wide lens - £49.99 Canon 67mm C8 wide lens - £99.99 Prices in GB Pounds Sterling. Based in London UK. billrodgersfilms@hotmail.com
  12. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPgZVTFzG3I --This's the link to a short 16mm film I did back in 2005, shot on bolex. I think it turned out pretty good, despite the choppy editing and a few -out-of-focus shots. Let me know what you think :)
  13. Can bolex be converted to super 16? If so, which models? Also, can bolexes be outfitted for crystal sync/ electric motor? Just curious, thanks.
  14. Hello. I have been making short movies all my life. Went to Pittsburgh filmmakers and shot a couple 3 min long films in 16mm. In 2007 I bought a canon hv20. It's a hdv camcorder that takes the old, small tapes. Anyway, here's my thoughts. The 16mm film I did (the one that turned out well and not grossly overexposed) looked phenomenal to my eyes. I''d/I've never done anything else that looked that good. It was done on Kodak 16mm color neg 200t. I used a bolex from school with ordinary, non zoom lenses. So, ff to 2007. When I took a few videos with hv20, I was floored by the quality. I compared it to the 16mm film I did. The 16mm still looked better, and handled colors better. However, with the hv20, after tinkering with it a while , I've gotten COMPLETELY mixed results. I've learned that if you're shooting on video, everything has to be PERFECT to get the same quality every time. It's almost as if the stars have to be right to remain consistent. I mean, I have lit it well and it looks like crap, and I've lit it poorly and it looks great. Vice-versa. I just got back some 16mm b and w reversal I shot with a bolex. Looks good. however, after comparing it to a few of my "good days" footage with the hv20 (b&w in post), the hv20 clearly stands out. So now I'm shaking my head, confused more than ever. The HDV tapes are exceedingly cheaper than film and do produce excellent image quality... if everything is done absolutely perfect every time. How do I do this? I just don't know what I'm doing wrong to get some things looks great and some things that look like a 1980s videocam.
  15. Hi mates, i have a Kern-Vario Switar 12.5-100 f2 PTL with Auto zoom and exposure, i need to know that is it possible to use this lens manually on a dslr.? by mounting.? and also i need some instruction manual for this lens, the aperture seems to be weird, 2 blades, and also not moving, as i dont have the battery inside the lens, so kindly someone guide me some basics about this lens and also if there is some proper manual then it will e a great help. Thanks
  16. Hi Can anyone share the service manual for Bolex H16EL version, as i found on internet but not successful, i bought this camera and i have managed to power it, when i press the battery test white button, the light lit, but the camera don't work, sometimes a relay like sound heard when i press the shutter button, so i need some professional advise to fix this issue, i am sure it will be fixed, as it was never been used since 1995, and kept in the box.so i think it was stuck, and need some new oil and grease to get this beast work again. Thanks in advance.
  17. I found a super cheap switar lens on eBay. It's a 16mm lens. Below is a link. My question is.... Would this be relatively a "normal" lens for a bolex? I would rather get a ten mm, but don't want to pay 200.00+ for one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kern-Paillard-Switar-AR-f1-8-16mm-C-Mount-Camera-Lens-No-Reserve-/371264300473?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item567113a5b9
  18. Working Tobin Crystal Sync TXM motor Allows the 16mm filmmaker to shoot crystal sync speeds of 7.5/12/15/24/30/48 Also allows 16mm Bolex filmmaker to shoot with HMI lights. I am throwing in my XLR battery. I can provide a video of the motor running upon request I am open to meeting up locally within NYC. It has served me well! I hope it finds a good 16mm filmmaker. I can email you pictures and video of the motor working, I cannot upload on this site because my file sizes are too big, just msg me.
  19. Hello, I'm posting this to see if theres anyone looking for or with an intrest in this lens I have a mint condition century 1.9mm fisheye that i would be willing to let go for the right price, This lens is extremely rare
  20. I have a filmmaker friend who recently gave me his old Bolex H16 Reflex absolutely free over the holiday season. He has since graduated to a high-end digital setup, but said that the H16 Reflex properly cared for will give many years of service and can deliver great results for low-budget filmmakers. I'm a student, so low-budget pretty accurately describes my operation. However I'd be willing to invest in a lens that would suit my needs. I do stop-motion animation (seeking a BFA in Animation), and would like to use film for my project. The Bolex came with a pistol grip, a supplemental film magazine, cable release and a Vario Switar 18-86mm f. 25 OE lens. I'm wondering: what kind of lenses / accessories would I need to make the H16 Reflex suitable for stop motion animation? The lens I'm currently looking at is a Kern Switar 10mm f 1.6. Apologies for lack of knowledge, as I am an amateur. Thanks!
  21. Hi, I've got for sale standard 16mm camera set, including lenses, cables, filters... all fitted in Peli case. Camera is in fully working condition, I have used in only occasionally. The last user, had it got serviced in Bolex, Switzerland (in 2009). Camera is equipped with normal 16mm gate, bolex bayonet mount, in-camera filter holder and TTL exposure meter (till ASA 640) What's in set: Bolex EL 16mm camera mark.II Kern Vario-Switar compact zoom 17-85mm T3,8 Angenieux 15mm f1,3 Bolex bayonet - C-mount adapter (2x) C-mount - Arri Standard adapter gelatine filter holder (4x) battery cable 4pin XLR (2x) Peli case Price is €850 + shipping I'm located in Slovak Republic, and ship to E.U. and U.S.A. Photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/91204852@N05/sets/72157648786143401/ 16mm footage:
  22. Working Tobin Crystal Sync TXM 26 motor Allows the 16mm filmmaker to shoot crystal sync speeds of 7.5/12/15/24/30/48 Also allows 16mm Bolex filmmaker to shoot with HMI lights. I am throwing in my XLR battery. I can provide a video of the motor running upon request
  23. Hello all, I've got a dour situation on my hands with my new Bolex H16. Not sure which model exactly - it's an eBay find - but it has a variable shutter so I think it's an Rx2. It was running fine this evening as I was putting my first roll through. I wanted to try to do a double exposure and rewound the camera a few feet. Then when I re-engaged the motor I heard an unnatural noise. Suffice to say, that motor isn't running any more. I've removed the film - there didn't seem to be any jams. I've tried single frame and slow-speed continuous running but neither have engaged the motor. The crank is tight, like it has a full wind, but won't move in either direction when engaged. And the rewind works... in both directions. Does this sound like a spring problem? Any other ideas? This is my first Bolex and I might have gotten to antsy to try out its special effects...
  24. Shooting a student project on the Bolex H-16 camera, I understand that 25% of light is lost by going into the viewfinder. That means that on a normal light meter it has to be compensated for right? I will be using 250D stock, would setting the ASA on the light meter to 160 compensate for this? and then could I use the light meter as normal? Also is there any common problems or tips and tricks that might be useful for me to know before the shoot? Thanks Will
  25. Shooting a student project on the Bolex H-16 camera, I understand that 25% of light is lost by going into the viewfinder. That means that on a normal light meter it has to be compensated for right? I will be using 250D stock, would setting the ASA on the light meter to 160 compensate for this? and then could I use the light meter as normal? Also is there any common problems or tips and tricks that might be useful for me to know before the shoot? Thanks Will
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