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Hi Everyone, I've been getting lot of useful information from everyone on this forum. As you can see this is my first posting, and I would like to thank everyone here. After all this reading and learning....I've finally bought an Aaton A-minima Camera and starting to shoot next week for a project that I've been thinking & planning for awhile. I wanted to post this topic to see if i can get more information about the camera that I've bought & would like to know / learn how to look after this Camera,( general servicing tips?). Im including some information and couple of images below to start the conversation, I hope it will be helpful. I bought the camera from the first owner, camera used under 50 rolls...Camera was lightly used...the set that i've bought includes; -Aaton A-minima Body ( Serial No : A284 ) - Really curious about what this serial can tell? - -Magazines (x3) -Oppenheimer Battery Handle Accessory - anyone had an experience with this accessory ? Battery Handle (x2) Swan Neck" attachment Mini-Base 15mm rods (4+2inch) -Battery Charger, Cables, Pelican Case, some filmstocks, extra minima spools, cables....etc (for more images...) Thanks again, _Emrah

Hi! So I am new to the world of 16mm... I may well be the only student at my Uni shooting 16mm. I haven't shot much yet, but am eager to learn! This will be the summer of 16 for me! I bought a box of cans of 100' expired color Fuji 500D (from mid to late 90s guessing). I am planning on rating it at around 120 or so... But what is everyone's reccomended method of testing a roll? Shooting a annotated test card at several settings, then clipping that footage (Maybe 1 minute long?) and sending it to a lab would be my guess. From the lab tech perspective, what should I ask for in terms of processing this test? A flat pass? How to send the footage? In a 35mm still film container? I want to make this easy and hassle free for all involved. Basically, I want to know what to rate the film at and if there is streaking. Later on, the lab and I can decide to correct (or to amplify....) odd coloring, so I am not worried about that part. Any advice is appreciated. I am so excited my fingers are tingling!

Super 8 kit for sale. All carefully serviced, film tested, with clear lenses and in fully working, near mint condition. Minolta XL-84 - £149.99 (RL button intentionally removed) Canon AF514XL-S - £124.99 Canon 514XL-S + 43mm C8 wide lens - £99.99 Sankyo XL-620 - £99.99 Sankyo XL-420 - £74.99 Bolex Aspheron 4mm (55mm thread) Wide Lens - £34.99 Canon 43mm C8 wide lens - £49.99 Canon 67mm C8 wide lens - £99.99 Prices in GB Pounds Sterling. Based in London UK. billrodgersfilms@hotmail.com

BURBANK, Calif. (March 10, 2015) - FotoKem's restoration of Twentieth Century Fox's The Sound of Music will kick off the sixth annual TCM Classic Film Festival on March 26 in Hollywood. Originally released in 1965, the re-mastered version of this cinematic treasure will grace the screen of the TCL Chinese Theater IMAX as the fest's Opening Night Film, as previously announced by TCM. The movie's stars - Julie Andrews and Christopher Plummer - will be on hand to introduce the film, along with Turner Classic Movies host Robert Osborne. Directed by Robert Wise and photographed by Ted D. McCord, ASC, The Sound of Music earned five Oscars® for Best Picture, Director, Sound, Editing and Score. The Rodgers & Hammerstein musical tells the true story of a nun (Andrews) who leaves the convent to serve as governess at the nearby Von Trapp household, where she falls in love with Captain Von Trapp (Plummer) and the family encounters dangers and eventual triumph in Nazi-era Austria. This marks the second consecutive year that a movie restored by FotoKem has opened the TCM Classic Film Festival. Last year, Twentieth Century Fox's Oklahoma! was unveiled for attendees. FotoKem completed the restoration of both 65mm classics through 8K scans from large-format film elements, down-sampled to 4K for restoration and digital cinema mastering. "The popularity of The Sound of Music is in part a testament to the power of 65mm capture," says Schawn Belston, Executive Vice President, Media and Library Services at Twentieth Century Fox, who supervised the restoration. "FotoKem's 8K scanning and complimentary digital post resulted in a stunning digital version of this timeless classic, and made our new 4K restorations of The Sound of Music and Oklahoma! a perfect fit for the opening night screening slot at a festival as prestigious as TCM's." FotoKem, which provides digital workflow and creative finishing solutions, and continues to operate one of the last motion picture laboratories in the United States, has been providing skillful restoration and preservation services for decades. Their expertise in the entire post production process makes the facility uniquely positioned to restore and deliver 65mm sourced images to today's audiences. "We're honored to have been entrusted with the job of digitizing and restoring the The Sound of Music," says FotoKem's Andrew Oran. "This 50-year-old film comes alive today in a whole new way - with a vividness and emotional impact that arguably exceeds even its original release - because of its 65mm pedigree, and the great care we've taken throughout the post process to honor that unique, ultra-high quality source." For the restoration of The Sound of Music, Oran and his team began by creating the highest quality 65mm intermediate film components possible on the facility's re-engineered 65mm contact printers. Next, those film elements were digitized at 8K on the 65mm IMAGICA scanner. FotoKem colorist Mark Griffith mastered the film from re-scaled 4K files, utilizing powerful digital tools to address quality issues present in the sourced material, such as flicker and variable color fading. "At FotoKem, we employ many of these same restoration tools and techniques on 65mm originated images week in and week out for new Hollywood features, giant screen documentaries, and theme park attractions," adds Oran. "Working with 65mm requires precision, whether the images are new or old. Whatever the vintage, we consider it our duty to retain the intentions of the original filmmakers." FotoKem is a sponsor of the 2015 TCM Classic Film Festival, which runs March 26-29. The golden anniversary of the film's premiere launched March 2 in the UK, and March 10 in the U.S. with the release of the 5-disc Ultimate Collector's Edition 50th Anniversary Blu-ray/DVD/Digital HD, which features over 13 hours of bonus content. Additionally, through a Fox partnership with Fathom Events and Turner Classic Movies, the restored film will also be shown for two days only, April 19 and 22, in over 500 theatres across the U.S. For more information about FotoKem, visit www.fotokem.com. For details about the TCM Classic Film Festival, go to http://filmfestival.tcm.com.

Can bolex be converted to super 16? If so, which models? Also, can bolexes be outfitted for crystal sync/ electric motor? Just curious, thanks.

Hello, INFO: 1) I shot some R16mm/S16mm tests and had a telecine at two different labs. The R16 was done at Lab 1 and the S16 at Lab 2 (also a second telecine of the same R16 footage was done at the same lab, Lab 1.) 2) All the stills are shot in the exact same location. Meter: F1.2 and on 7219 3) The S16 is shot at F2 with a 9.5mm Zeiss Super Speed Prime 4) the R16 stills were both shot at F1.3 with a 16mm Zeiss Super Speed Prime. Shots: R16 Lab 1 (Tele 1) R16 Lab 1 (Tele 2) S16 Lab 2 Questions: 1) Why does the S16 image seem to have so much more light than the R16 images when it is actually closed a full stop down (F2 vs F1.3)? (Again the R16 was done at lab 1 and the S16 at lab 2) 2) Why is the S16 image much more green and then the two R16 images so different from one another, (one is redder and the other white, same footage)? How are these choices made at the lab? 3) Finally, based on the meter reading of 1.2 and the 7219, does one process/lab stick out as more accurate as far as exposure, obviously the more light the better. Could lab 1 have under processed? Could lab 2 have over processed? I assume they have the same processing times. But how do I know what I am going to get? needless to say I need some adepts here as this is pretty confusing I appreciate your time thank you

Hi all, I have recently been trying to practice loading film into a super 16mm modified krasnogorsk k3 and am coming up against some odd problems. Firstly I was not the one who performed the modification and the loop formers are removed. From what I understand this is to stop the film from getting scratched. When loading the film and feeding it through everything seems to be fine at first and I run off a good few feet to make sure it is going through okay. But then once the lid goes on and I press the trigger the film immediately jams. Here is a video of the issue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGuALakdNQY Can anyone make sense of this? Regards, Josh

So as a project for high school some friends and I are going to shot a short on Super 8. I am planing on purchasing Kodak's 7266 Tri-X and I've been looking into developing it. I know that I can send it to get developed at Pro8mm or CineLab but if it's reasonable I'd like to try home developing. I've see a number of different ways in my research. I know the basic process of developing the film twice and bleaching it in the middle. I've read that I could just use D-76 for developing. But I've also read that I should use KODAK B&W Reversal First Developer Starter. I've read the instructions for using the Developer Starter and it sounded like it includes everything someone needs. But when I was looking into it more someone had posted saying I would needed to buy some other products. Also I've heard that you can use coffee as developer but I didn't really look into that. So I could use some advice is there a good way to do home developing, if so what do I need and what is the specific formulas for mixing. Or would it just be better to mail it in and if so what service would you suggest.

Hi guys. Selling my lovely TOBIN TCS TXM-22A Crystal Sync Motor for Arriflex 16s. Bought from Du-All Cameras 2 years ago. never used, only tested recently, working like a charm. Asking price: US$ 900 (Paid US$ 995, receipt as proof). Can ship worldwide. Item is in Brazil. Can declare small value to avoid customs. Shipment costs is around US$ 60, ETA 2 weeks by normal postage. Can ship UPS if you'd like. Will post pictures here soon. Any questions, just shout. *** PLEASE CHECK MY 2 ARRI 16S KITS FOR SELL ON EBAY: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-ARRI-16S-ARRIFLEX-KITS-FULLY-WORKING-PRISTINE-CONDITION-/171665355148?#shpCntId

Hi! We are looking for a Camblock operator who loves adventure and cinematography for a documentary we will be shooting in Baja (California) in a few weeks. We will be down there for a couple of weeks and its a paid gig. We're based in LA. Please contact georgina@usc.edu if interested. Best, Georgina

The Chicago International Film Festival’s 11th annual CineYouth Festival is now accepting short films (10 minutes or less) from filmmakers 21 years old and younger from around the world. Held in Chicago May 7-9, 2015, CineYouth strives to encourage the talent of young artists and to provide them with opportunities to tell their stories, network with their peers and be recognized for their creativity. Entries must be postmarked by March 23, 2015 to be considered. Award winning films are shown at the Chicago International Film Festival and winning filmmakers are awarded cash prizes! For details and guidelines, visit: http://www.chicagofilmfestival.com/year-round/cineyouth/entries/ Submit! We look forward to watching your films!

Hey, I have read in several places that slower stocks yield a more contrasty look. Does anybody have any experience with this? Would Kodak 50D be noticeably more contrasty than, say, 250D? I am shooting a scene during an overcast day and am thinking that using 50D over 250D would give the image more contrast, as I am worried that the light may look too flat on the actor's faces. Alternatively, might it be better to go with a less contrasty stock and reserve option to add contrast in the grade?

Hey, I have read in several places that slower stocks yield a more contrasty look. Does anybody have any experience with this? Would Kodak 50D be noticeably more contrasty than, say, 250D? I am shooting a scene during an overcast day and am thinking that using 50D over 250D would give the image more contrast, as I am worried that the light may look too flat on the actor's faces. Alternatively, might it be better to go with a less contrasty stock and reserve option to add contrast in the grade?

As someone who loves film and the process of it all, and wanting a lucrative career in filmmaking, I would fight anyone who says shooting digital is better (than film) or anyone who puts film down for any reason because I believe film is superior. I still do, when it comes to the approach and the finished product. Well, fast forward into reality, I was about to throw down $3,000+ on an Arri BL4 (plus extras), spoke to a few owners who were more than willing to sell. And although I had that driving force to shoot film and have a big ol’ bad camera, something was bugging me, something was holding me back. Now, I am not a rich man, I’m just like you. But I started thinking, hmmm…most people can’t even tell the difference or don’t care about the difference in picture quality. They also aren’t helping me when I have to purchase, process and scan a 1000’ foot reel. Also, if I differ the costs to the client, then I price myself out of the market if I want to do any ‘for hire’ work. I’m also investing in a camera that will be hard to find parts. So what am I fighting for? Why do I want this uphill battle? Oh, right, the picture quality is supburb and digital still sucks. But it is getting better. Now as nostalgic as Super 8mm is, digital surpassed it. I don’t know if anyone out there could tell me they would want to see a feature length movie on Super 8mm. And as economically as it is to shoot 16mm to a certain extent, digital passed it in regards to resolution and clarity. And it’s just a matter of time before 35mm is caught up with, maybe this year by the new Alexa 65. With filmlabs dwindling in the world, and with Kodak one economic hiccup away from closing, why would I want any counterparty risk to be able to do my work? Yeah, yeah, Star Wars is supposed to be shot on film, etc. etc. etc. but if there’s an economic crash like is expected this year (possibly in the Sept. time frame), then Kodak will be gone, or will become super expensive. And if Kodak goes bye bye, then J.J. Abrams and team will be like, “Uhm guys, let’s do the George Lucas thing and shoot digital seeing that we can’t find any film. And Christopher Nolon might be crying in the bat cave.” And if there’s no film, then I doubt there will be any filmlabs. (Note: If you do not think we are set for a market crash or for an ever spiraling down of the U.S. economy, I invite you to take any U.S. currency bill out from your wallet (if you have any) and I guarantee you, you will not find a bill printed past 2009 (that includes that new $100 bill with the blue stripe…if you’re looking for some tangible proof to what I’m saying that is). You’re money is already monopoly money, you just may not know it yet, shh….mainstream news doesn’t want you to know. To this, l will say one thing and quote J.P. Morgan himself – “Gold is money, everything else is credit.”) So, do I want to buy a BL4 and possibly have nothing to feed it in the near future, and very limited places to process it when digital whom the masses have already accepted helps my wallet? Plain and simple, the infrastructure to shoot film is disappearing more and more everyday. Case in point, the two CVS stores that would develop my C-41 took their machines out last week. Now I have to travel or mail it somewhere. I don’t mind waiting for personal stuff, but for work and clients, I need it today. Now, I will still shoot film for personal use, my old Nikon FG is still kicking, or if I find a 16mm camera at a garage sale, or if a friend is shooting a 35mm movie and needs my help or my own little project, but for my work and my dime, uh-uh, I rather keep as much of my money as I can and shoot digital. What I do like about film is that it allows you be as artistic as you want to be, digital isn’t there yet, but it’s getting there on some level. And I’m not looking for a digital cam that will look just like film, that a pipe dream, but if I can find something I can at least work with, that could be something. I did see one video recently that got me thinking. It was footage shot with the Blackmagic production camera and here’s the link… Is the footage perfect? No, but it does have a different feel I think from the Alexas-Reds-Sonys-Genesis of the market. I could do something with this, I can work with it. The camera housing is butt-ugly, I would have to get passed that. And if not this camera, then another, but the bottom line is, digital makes a lot more cents. Where was my breakthrough you ask? I realized I was emotionally attached to film, and I needed to break that. It was clouding my mind from looking at things objectively. I didn’t want to do Blockbuster’s mistake and not foresee the trend and inadvertenly have my butt kicked to the curb by Netflix and Redbox. Big deal, I can’t call myself a ‘filmmaker’ because I’m not actually shooting physical film through a 40 lb. iron movie camera, oh well, I’ll just have to let that title go for a lucrative career. I’m sure I can find something else to call myself, like, ‘the camera guy,’ or ‘digitizer of the world’, whatever, who cares, at least I’ll have work and food in my stomach as I enjoy my craft. Just sharing my journey, maybe someone else can relate. Best regards, Alexander

I was having a nice conversation with a camera owner and he mentioned to me, according to conversations he had with other camera folk, that movie film cameras are set to appreciate in the near future and I wanted to post this to get some feedback from the community here. I do agree with him, since these cameras are not being made anymore, film is still available and people enjoy the film look and working with film. These cameras could turn into a nice commodity and maybe hard to get your hands on in the future. Love to hear your thoughts, Alexander

FIRSTLY Sorry about the title, I am horrible at this. FOREWORD Hello. This is my first posting in this forum and I don’t think it will be my last : ). I’m still young and there are lots of things that I don’t know about cinematography. So if I’m wrong somewhere, please correct me and feel free to tell me your thoughts. I have studied cinematography autodidactively, read the ASC Mag, Painting with Light, Film Lighting and books like that for quite some time now and have a handful of questions as I am currently approaching my first feature film. I can’t really say a lot about it at this moment but it will all come in the future. THE PROJECT The film takes place in the late 60s and the sets will be old european buildings and modernist 50s & 60s architecture (Wright, Rose, Bauhaus, …) My moods are 2001: A Space Odyssey, Dr.Strangelove, Lola Montes, Touch of Evil, Brazil, North by Northwest, Yojimbo and Grand Budapest Hotel. I know it’s a bit colourful and partly entirely different but these are some the films that will inspire the look of this project. I would love to use film, which there is not enough budget and my first digital choice would be an Alexa. Now, there might not be enough budget for that as well and Even though I never wanted to do that, I’m thinking about/kind of pre-decided on a red dragon camera. I am not looking for a digital look, which sounds funny, but you know what I mean. I also won’t shoot 16mm because I want as much lens coverage as I can get. And I don’t want all that film hassle on my first feature, where I’ll have enough hassles already. The plan is too use the entire sensor (only possible in 6K) and tuning it down to 4K DPX Seqs. (Also handy for stabilizing shots). If I’m using vintage lenses and a 1/8 pro mist filter or something like that I’ll be fine. My first idea was to use 1.33x anamorphic lenses and I would really like to do that to get even more space. I didn’t find any 1.33x anam lens wider than 25mm, which is a 19 on FF (stretched to final image). And I want something a bit wider. More like a 14mm or 16mm FF equivalent. I thought about using the Letus Anamorphx Adapter. I don’t know how good it is, or what it can and can’t handle as there are few reviews out there. I would really like to test it though, but there are none in Austria, where I live. I am buying looking into buying lenses for the project and there will be 10-20k euros for that. Why not rent? because you can’t rent any vintage PL glass in Austria and I also really want that glass : ) . I also thought that maybe the set and dressing alone will have enough vintage flair and I could use newer lenses, like the CP.2s. THE DREAM I’m looking for something like this. 14mm - 21mm - 28mm - 35mm - 50mm - 80mm SOME LENS SET OPTIONS _ 2-3 anamorphic lenses + something like a 14mm Arri/Zeiss PL with an anamorphx (or not) I am afraid though, that the 14mm shots would look very different than the anam shots. The Anamorphx Adapter could fix some of that, but who knows. I also thought about the Tokina 11-16 cine rehousing but I’m even more worried about fixing up that look opposed to a 14mm Zeiss. _ An old PL Set + Anam Adapter _ CP.2s + Anam Adapter Maybe the 1/8 Filter + the Anam Adapter could deliver our vintage look? _ An old PL set and shooting 16:9 ACTUAL QUESTIONS I would love to hear your thoughts on it and if you have any other ideas or know any other anamorphic adapter aside the LV7200 and the anamorphx. What other filter I could use for achieving a “vintage look”. Another approach to this entire thing. P.S. Sorry if the post is too long : )

Hi, I'm a student cinematographer with a shoot coming up, on 16mm with the Arri SR3. I have a couple of shoots planned during the blue phase of magic hour (civil twilight and the blue hour), on a beach. I think I'm correct in saying that I need to shoot with daylight colour balance to match the blue tones in the sky as tungsten will make them even cooler? I was wondering if anyone has any thoughts on the different aesthetics of 500T and 250D? (aside from the obvious sensitivity and colour balance differences). Is there any particular advantage (visual or otherwise) to shooting 500t with an 85 or 250d straight up? All the best, Connor

I have a filmmaker friend who recently gave me his old Bolex H16 Reflex absolutely free over the holiday season. He has since graduated to a high-end digital setup, but said that the H16 Reflex properly cared for will give many years of service and can deliver great results for low-budget filmmakers. I'm a student, so low-budget pretty accurately describes my operation. However I'd be willing to invest in a lens that would suit my needs. I do stop-motion animation (seeking a BFA in Animation), and would like to use film for my project. The Bolex came with a pistol grip, a supplemental film magazine, cable release and a Vario Switar 18-86mm f. 25 OE lens. I'm wondering: what kind of lenses / accessories would I need to make the H16 Reflex suitable for stop motion animation? The lens I'm currently looking at is a Kern Switar 10mm f 1.6. Apologies for lack of knowledge, as I am an amateur. Thanks!

Hello everyone, as I'm slowly getting into film and its ins/outs, I'm wondering about the following: In the age of DI and the numerous options in grading/post, do professional cinematographers still tweak emulsions (I'm talking about pre-flashing, shooting Tungsten film in daylight without filters and other "more experimental" methods) or are these techniques slowly getting lost?! I'm not trying to add another debate concerning "we'll do it in post" - just curious to hear whether digital technology is replacing these techniques. Thanks, Alex

Hello all. Please check my 2 Arris for sale on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-ARRIFLEX-16S-KITS-FULLY-OVERHAULED-AND-WORKING-/171623295637? 2 ARRIFLEX 16S BODIES 4 MAGAZINES (1 12V + 3 8V) 2 ORIGINAL ARRIFLEX MATTEBOX ORIGINAL 8V MOTOR TOBIN TCS TM-23 For sale 2 Arriflex 16s kits Fully working with magazines and motors. Lens not included. Fully serviced by Les Bosher in South Wales about 1 year ago. Bodies are pristine and clean inside and outside. 1 Original Mattebox is in good condition (pictured). 1 Original Matte Box with bad signs of usage (not pictured). Magazines have some signs of use and acrylic pieces (on footage meter) cracked, but does not affect performance. Serial Numbers: 6587 and 8467 Questions answered promptly. Not selling separate, not splitting pieces, sorry. Please make your offering considering they are fully working and bodies are pristine, and servicing alone was £300. Can ship worldwide but buyer pays expenses and is responsible for tax and duties on countries of destination. No returns. Good luck.

Hey all, I am currently looking for a DP well versed in 35mm scope photography for my next short film "Secrets of Aperture." "Secrets of Aperture" was funded earlier this year through Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/colinandconnor/portal-secrets-of-aperture-webseries We are set on shooting 35mm anamorphic, and are aspiring for a fully optical workflow, including a print. I have been perusing this forum for a long time now, and found it a fantastic resource for learning about film. Always planned on hiring a DP through here as opposed to Mandy or elsewhere. We have no exact shoot dates but are looking at some time in mid-end of February. The job is decently paid, but will be determined later. If you are interested would love to hear from you. Please send demo reels to colinandconnor "at" gmail.com or message me through here. Thanks everyone!

I'm shooting a short film this summer using a Super 8 for the first time and was hoping someone could give me a bit of advice as to which film I should look for. I'll be shooting most shots outdoors during the day, and I'm trying to get a kinda lo-fi feel. things get a bit tricky though as I'll also have take some shots at night near a campfire, I feel like a different kind of film might be more appropriate for a shot with such low light. I might also want some sunset shots. Is there any particular film I should look into? Thanks!

Used Arri 35-3 MkII with Nikon mount for sale - $1700 Clean, well maintained, ready to shoot Super 35. I am the owner and operator and have treated it like a baby. Photos and full details at http://www.prairiepictures.com/gear.html Martin

Hi folks, Wish to know what is the best place to get my Super 16 camera and Zeiss 11-110 serviced in New York city?

Hi, I'm looking for a Cinema Products NCC6 battery charger for my CP GSMO 16mm camera. I know Whitehouse sells them but I'm wondering if anyone may have one available to sell. Thanks.