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Currently, my 5008 MS is in Sweden with Björn being serviced, re-celled, and having a Angenieux 8-64mm collimated - it's a lens I'm very happy with as I've always found it to be sharper than the Schneider 6-66mm. That said, I've recently been offered a chance to buy a 10mm 1.8 retrofocus Angenieux which I've seen be compared to the Cinegon 10mm! But is it worth buying this and then paying for it to be collimated if I've already got a 8-64mm?

For Sale : Fuji 35 & 16mm 400ft. stock new & sealed. Stored in a temperature controlled environment. Purchased new in 2011 & 2012.

Hello All, I just completed a new short film shot on 16MM Kodak film via an Arri SR3 HS. I wrote and directed this fun little horror short, and my producing partner, and friend, Evan Samaras did the cinematography (say hi in the comments, Evan). Not only did Evan and I work behind the camera, but also in front of it. The short features only two characters played by us. Due to COVID-19, we wanted to make something small with a minimal, to non-existent, cast and crew. We have submitted the film to some festivals so, for the time being, it is only up privately with a password on our Vimeo page. The link and password are below, for your viewing pleasure. Please let me know your thoughts and critiques. Anything feedback would be greatly appreciated. Password: SRF2020 Thank you all in advance! Keep shooting!

Hi I just purchased a konvas 2m, new to this camera. What tripods would fit for camera. Also any stabilizers or glides that will fit.

Hi I’m looking to purchase a bolex h16 reflex camera or any other reflex 16mm cameras like beaulieu r16 canon scooping, arr16, arr2bc, etc my price range is the highest $600

Hello, The eyepiece on my SR2 used to open and close when I applied pressure, preventing unwanted light passing through when not filming. It has stopped doing that and is just constantly open. Anyone have any advice on how to fix it? I have tried to wiggle it ect Cheers, Ed

Hi, Does anyone knows how to expose this film in the two configuration mentionned ? is it possible to have good result in low light by pushing in development ? (any experience with that ?) I am opened to any tips regarding reversal film treatment as a 1st AC (conservation, use and elese ...) For upcoming projects, i am wondering how it would look like. The first one is a low light / hangar / industrial environment with light coming from a dancefloor with 5 people on it (the aim would be to have color effect / aberration and dynamism like in the 'domino' movie, the dancefloor lights would help accomplishing this nighclub ambiance) The second one is more of a natural ambiance in bright daylight with characters in the frame running on a road and other narratives sequences in the city ... Thanks in advance ! cheers

Hey everyone, I'm looking for old, expired 400' rolls of 16mm that I can use to practice loading. I'm planning to start shooting 16mm more seriously and don't want to have to worry about potentially wasting brand new film while I familiarize myself with the process. Thanks!

Hey all. Happy holidays and happy new year. 2020 is now hindsight (thank god). First off, I have a lot of reverence for what you guys do. Many of you on this forum I'm a huge fan of, so it's an honor even in a small way to be writing this. So thanks for listening. Overwhelmed by choice overload. I tend to be a little too good at matching pros with cons and vice versa, so this amount of indecision (and the self-awareness about the indecision) has been difficult. Hence the need to reach out. I'll cut to the chase since I don't want to waste anybody's time. I'm looking to own a camera, thats what this is about. I've got enough $ to own a Komodo production kit with tax. I'll outline choices at the end. The purpose is for me to just feel empowered to get out and make films and work as a director / operator full time versus a owner / op who just rents his camera out to DP's other peoples stuff primarily. I do that for money occasionally the same way I color or edit or crew for people occasionally but my full step forward is towards going from one project to the next on my portfolio. Until then, here's a lot of ridiculous background and way too much information. I'm a filmmaker who prefers self-operating, but mainly for the intimacy and connection with the actors and for how it helps me concentrate, not because I consider myself a proper image-maker at heart, like I'm sure some of you do. My passion is mainly storytelling, not gear, though I'm well capable of digging into deep rabbit holes of technical details if it means getting exactly what I want when I want it. Background: age 25, Burbank-native, editor primarily (that's certainly where most of my superficial skills lie) I'm experienced in that I've made shorts since I was 10 years old. My first feature did get distributed by Gravitas and won a lot of awards - so I'm not totally untalented. But it was exhausting getting there. And in general, I hate the word "content" and have no intention of being a "content creator" at all, ever. Just want to keep telling stories in the way that feels truest to my heart, and make the strongest step forward. Life doesn't make a lot of sense when I'm not making films. And I need to make films right now. What's been hard is not having anything to express myself with. Like many of you, I'm relegated to primarily being at home, needing to channel energy. I've got stuff to shoot, I'm always writing and working with friends on writing films. I told myself I will just rent, that the entirety of hollywood infrastructure is built upon the idea that you don't own your own gear - that its better to just own lenses, which I still do. Logically, I still believe that. Emotionally though, whats been hard is not having that tool to express myself with. I know that theres an argument to be made for todays infrastructure being different from shooting 10 years ago, that being an owner operator now especially as a young person is fairly valuable. I also know its the story, performances, composition, movement, and lighting (in that order) that makes it, not the gear. Furthermore, Steve Yedlin's right. Camera's today are really just data collection tools. Even film cameras are glorified boxes the film goes through. I like being a colorist and relish the freedom it gives me. But its almost a separate part of my brain. The part of me on set thats connected to the actors and the story, that's the part I wanna grow. But still for me, film nearly always looks better. I have been fooled a few times, but only when they shot on anamorphic lenses. Linus Sandgren isn't wrong about the distortion of those being almost necessary in a twisted sort of way. His work, plus Maniac, 10 Cloverfield Lane, and a few others I find truly exceptional. If I'm to collect data, then the data I actually care about (which makes film superior) is the motion cadence of a global shutter, the ability to sandblast highlights and still have it look cool, and the ability to oversaturate or shoot in harshly oversaturated environments. That's the data set I'm looking for in a camera to own. Recently wrapped up a short on the Red Komodo which I made for an AFI application. Super happy with the image and versatility of R3D, which is inspiring in how it almost dares you to challenge it and push it to its limits. I love that you can beat the tar out of it in post and it never bands or splotches or falls apart. We even did a filmout from the R3D files to a 16mm sized portion of the negative at Fotokem, just to see how close Komodo could get to film, since its the first camera with films dynamic range and a global shutter. Astonished by the results - so much so I genuinely think I could film out everything I've ever done and get the best of both worlds (Most of my heroes are people who utilize the best of both, or create an invisible third option by kicking down the door) Still, something about shooting digital with that camera did not feel right to me. Could have been the stress of mounting COVID productions in general being a huge hassle, but also (while I appreciate lightweight cameras) I've never been a fan of feeling like I'm holding a DSLR. (Though BOY is it nice when you wanna shoot illegally. Had the Canon C70 existed before, my feature would have been completed considerably faster.) Tested the Varicam LT for the short first because that's been my favorite look on digital (perfect mixture of RED's cutting edge and Arri's painterly qualities) but weirdly, wasn't as good as Komodo, was heavy, and was bothered by the rolling shutter on that as well. Which was disappointing, because shooting 3200 iso in camera and NDing for exposure compensation is the closest I've seen to film grain yet. Plus Varicam colors are more Eterna than Vision3, and I'm definitely more of an Eterna guy. I've used lots of cameras, but owned only 2. HVX200 was the camera I learned on and in some ways it spoiled me. Got used to global shutter and undercranking & overcranking and timelapse photography and thick viewfinders and shooting to tape and it's been hard finding cameras that feel that level of satisfying. Owned a c100, but was never happy with it. Most of shooting my feature was about pushing that thing to its absolute limit in every conceivable way (to the point it stopped turning on altogether). After that, I owned the S1H for a bit, mainly because of my history with the HVX200 & how much I liked the Varicam. Sold it. Got WAY too into the whole idea of kitting it out to oblivion, trying to turn it into something its not - and became unhappy. Image was lovely but HATED the rolling shutter. Any readout 15ms or greater seems similar to the Haas effect in acoustics, where you don't truly perceive it until its in the 15ms to 30ms range. Though our eyes are way sharper (hehe) than our ears, so its probably more like 7ms or greater (at least for me). I've used lots of cameras, owned only a few. Mainly, the c100 Mark I, and the S1H for about 6 months. Unhappy with both. As badly as I want to like the EVA1, the image is beautiful, its the only camera I've ever used which actually enrages me ergonomically. That horrible plastic body and screen and clickless dial which makes menus impossible to navigate. Blackmagic is a fascinating player in the scene, and has the best menu system ever but I hate how every college kid or person my age uses them. I know you can color them to look however you want but I hate having to give myself so much to do, and I hate their lack of quality control. My choices so far have boiled down to these 3. I'm discounting options which I believe will be useless in 10 years. Komodo seems of all the new cameras to be the one best primed for the test of time, and the Alexas proven her stripes, and film, well, film is film. I want this to be (if at all possible) the last time I purchase a camera, at least for a decade. I also hate how every manufacturer uses the word FUTUREPROOF. 1. Red Komodo. Have the experience with it, love the image, and of course - the global shutter innovation makes it (to me) the most exciting digital camera in the world at any price level. I know people do get hired because of the Red bias, too, which is nice. Unless I get super creative though, it's gonna be forever till they actually get in stock. But: I can afford to get a decent run and gun kit, and after the initial charges, I'd never have to pay again to create, and I'd have the closest approximation to film motion cadence on a digital sensor. With that ND wheel from Kippertie it'll be great. Genuinely, I do feel its the ultimate tool for someone my age in the year 2020, if properly utilized (and yes, utilized in a way that's different from REDs design purpose). To me, it seems like Reds Mini. The Alexa Mini was a drone camera that became an A cam, too. I don't like having to lean down and look at that tiny screen, but part of me also feels this may help my compositions, and force concentration on framing better. I know I do function better with some limitations. All in all, I love the Komodo in spirit, mainly because it appeals to the more "fly by the seat of my pants" part of me, the one that believes in taking risks and stuff. The young punk, lol. 2. Alexa Classic. I don't need the resolution (2K's my favorite) and despite me hating the vanilla-ness of that choice - there is part of me that always thought, wouldn't it be cool to own that camera and really do some more extreme photography? Overexpose, underexpose, get grainy and nasty - i do have a little devil in there somewhere that feels he would enjoy that. Plus, its the standard. Menus are easy. Love the EVF. Much closer on paper to my experience with the HVX200 than the Red Komodo. Theres an appeal in that to me being that its the closest thing in digital to cutting out the bullshit. I've heard DP's articulate how that camera more than any other just allows them to focus on their creativity and their storytelling, and not worry about anything else. I do prefer the Varicam look over the Alexa, and the built in ND's. But the rolling shutter bugs me. And an LT is pretty hard to come by used. So a classic EV seems the most compelling option in the realm of "can't go wrong". But theres self-conciousness about wanting something so "safe" 3. Shoot film. My favorite look, the look I grew up on, is Super 16mm. I dream in 16mm, honestly. Specifically, the format from the 90s forward. Nearly all of my style comes in some way from Super 16mm or super grimy 35mm. Especially in 2020 with the advances in scanning I find the look to immediately be more like the 35mm of the 1970s. It's also the only format I've never seen any successful digital emulation of. Closest was operation avalanche. And that's because they actually filmed out, so it WAS 16mm. I know there's Arri SR's for decent prices, and CP16s, and Eclairs, and despite that essentially being a form of sinking myself into an endless money pit, buying into a dead technology, etc - I've also found more community talking to film people than any other group, and theres a general focus on creativity that seems harder to find in digital (though I know it exists). Only shot on a Bolex and a super 8 camera before so I'd be a huge noob. But I loved doing it. And unquestionably I know it would force me to grow the quickest. I'm attracted to the romance of it, and the idea of proving myself on it doesn't seem scary. What I know I'll miss is getting to do multiple takes with the actors, because I adore that experience of discovering things with them in the process, and not just shooting coverage. (BTW, I loathe coverage. I hate it. ) Nearly everyone I know tells me its a terrible idea to own a film camera and shoot on film. I can't logically disagree, but emotionally I've been torn. One of the best arguments I've ever heard for shooting film ironically came from Michael Cioni, talking about how film still is the only capture medium with a true 1:1 quality ratio (at least when captured correctly.) That idea of pure timelessness does quite a lot for me, but I'm very much not a believer in the sake of nostalgia for the sake of nostalgia. Filming out to a grainier portion of the intermediate stock looks more filmic than any filmout I've ever seen, and still preserves the spontaneity and magic of film, without any of the limitations or sacrifices. Especially if you shoot 35mm stills on set with the same lenses using Vision3 stock, you've got access (roughly) to the filmic color space that would be present on set, too, not just that of the final "patina" or "texture". Grain is grain, its cool but not everything. Color to me is everything. And for the record, while I'm on the subject of film, the only place digital always falls short for me is outdoors. Something about the harshness of the sun and the slightly blown highlights and halation that comes from shooting exteriors on film always feels like my own eyes. In LA too everything is always too sunny, I like how in film, theres almost that flickering red that you get in your eyes when you've looked at the sun too long, I love how film behaves a similar way. To me, so much expressiveness comes from being able to accurately capture the environment. I love how Elswit shot digital at night and film during day. If I could, I'd do that every day for every shoot, until a solution exists that trumps either of them in isolation. But again, too much wishful thinking doesn't do anyone any good. Anyone who made it this far, I'd love to know your unsanitized thoughts. There's no wrong answers, nor is there a perfect choice (as much as I'd like there to me). What I'm looking for is the right set of compromises, Thanks in any case for listening. Hope you're staying safe out there. Soren

Hello, Selling my Arri 235 package. ARRIFLEX 235 4 perf Camera Body Ground Glass – ANSI 16:9 CGG 235 Universal Viewfinder s/n 2068 235 Eyepiece + eyecup Oppenheimer V mount battery system. 235 Carrying Handle 2x Camera To O/B Battery Cable KC-20 POWER CABLE 235 - Long Extension Eyepiece s/n 2005 Shoulder Pad 235 24v On-Board Battery 235 24v On-Board Battery 235 24v On-Board Battery 24v On-Board Battery Charger SBR-1 Side Bracket And Allen Screw BP8 Bridge Plate Pair of 440mm Rods (19mm) 235 Media IVS PAL 2 X 235 Shoulder Magazine 60/200 1 extra Arrimag 120/400 and 2 x 35-3 2C Mag 60/200 The camera is in perfect condition. Pm for photos and price. All the best Kimon

I recently got an Aaton LTR 7 serviced and have been practicing loading it and running film through it for a project. It has 2 mags. One of the mags is making a scratching sound and I am not sure what it is. The only difference between the mags is the rubber stoppers on the load in side seem to keep getting ground down everytime I run a roll through the camera on this problematic mag. Is there another reason that the sound could be happening and if not do you know why these are being grounded down? improper loading? The roll maybe has to be completely flat when loading? I'm really not sure and would appreciate any help. Thanks!

Hey guys! I just finished a 16mm shoot and am on the process of sending the negatives do be processed by CineLab London. They offer tons of scanning solutions and I'm kind of confused with some of them. Would love if you guys could help me with some questions :) 1.They state that all of the scans are deliveres as .dpx "full frame" files - Full Frame is only the image? Or will I see the borders, sprockets and etc? 2. What does it mean to have the negatives "overscanned"? They offer this option only on the Scanity scans - does it means that I'll see the sprockets, borders, etc? 3. What are the image quality difference between Spirit and Scanity scans? Is it significant? Thanks for the attention!

Hey there, I work on 16mm and super 8 film and have a pretty sufficient editing setup in my home studio -- rewinds, splicers, etc. However, I really need to get my hands on a film trim bin (big standing bin on wheels with the muslin bag to catch tails, and rack of pins for organizing clips). I've searched google a million times and can't find any for sale, just posts by filmmakers talking about having one in their studio. I know they have to come from somewhere! I emailed Dwight Cody and he doesn't have any at the moment, though I'll keep checking back. I've been looking for about a year. I'd also love to hear if anybody has made one of their own, and how you did it - I'm just tired of pinning my strips to the wall and would love a more long-term solution (plus, I miss my old school's darkroom). Anybody have experience on this or a tutorial, or a resource to purchase/make one? Thanks so much! E

Recently serviced by Andree including syncing shutter timer and switching to 3-perf movement. Price $47K & shipping cost ARRICAM LT 3 and 4 perf movements (2) Shoulder Mags (2) Steadi Mags (2) 1000’ Studio Mags Studio Viewfinder Handheld Bracket Shoulder Pad Low Mode Bracket Heated Eyepiece + Cable Remote trigger + ext cable BP8 Riser Plate 1.85 GG

Eclair ACL Super 16mm Camera with Zeiss 10-100mm lens and Bescor 12v li-ion bat. Condition is "Used" French made, the better of the models, with Bescor 12v XLR battery, recently serviced and converted by Les Bosher to super 16m looking for offers around £2300, open to conversation, if bought outside of ebay. Eclair ACL converted to super 16mm by Les Bosher, recently serviced, variable speed motor and rotating eye peice, and handle. Fully working XLR power input 2x 400ft french made magazine recently serviced Zeiss 10-100mm 3.1 lens with Arri mount and adaptor for eclair New Bescor 12v battery 4 pin XLR (worth £250) Tifen filters x 5 various Film Changing bag flight case Motor runs fine, magazines are like new. Lens is a bit stiff, but nothing a little service won't fix, reflected in the price Collection in person available. Any questions just ask postage available Link to ebay posting ; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eclair-ACL-Super-16mm-Camera-with-Zeiss-10-100mm-lens-and-Bescor-12v-li-ion-bat/143855996556?hash=item217e7c4e8c:g:VAMAAOSwttRfuPMC

I watched the first episode on BBC last Sunday evening.....loved it......I'm very much into civil rights films/documentaries......came across it quite some time ago as the Cinelab London posted about it as they processed all the film for the series.......it's on Amazon Prime on the 20th November....directed by Steve McQueen and shot by Shabier Kirchner. This is the film v digital debate right there.....do we believe we're back in the 50s, 60s etc when we watch The Crown......do we believe we're back in the 70s when we watch Small Axe.....

Hi my name is Boris I just recently moved to Rhode Island. I’m not familiar with any production or film based jobs in area. Does anyone know any in area. I’m willing to works as a pa in production or any film production based jobs

Email sales@broadcastsolutions.com for pricing and details. Arri 535B 4- Perf Kit Includes: 1- 535B Camera Body Serial 1- Ground Glass 535 1:78 TV (S) 1- Arri 24V Power Cable 1- Eyepiece Extension 535B 1- Eyepiece Leveler 2- 400’ Magazines 1- 1000’ Magazine 1- Bridge Plate 1- OB Monitor 1- CEI Color Video Assist 3- A&J Carrying Cases

It's my understanding that to eliminate roll bar from a CRT or 'Tube' TV, one can use the combination of a 23.967 framerate and a 144º shutter. This specific combination, of course, only works with NTSC (60Hz) televisions only. The other PAL (60Hz) methods obviously don't pertain to my situation. Anyway, It just so happens I will be filming a CRT TV, however I own an Arriflex SRII which has a fixed 180 degree shutter. I am able to use a speed controller to set the framerate to 23.976 but that alone won't exactly fix the problem, but rather keep the black bar in a fixed location. I want to eliminate the black bar entirely. It occurred to me that this wasn't a possibility, until I researched the problem quite a bit and actually found out there is actually something called a Film/Video Synchronizing Control Box. At my first uneducated glance I thought it was some outdated equipment which was probably used to change the framerate of cameras before we had framerate controllers. Then the size of the thing struck me and I thought "Maybe this isn't simply for only framerate" because there's no conceivable way to describe going from a giant box to change the framerate to only years later the speed controllers we all know and love that can all fit in the palm of your hand. That's just not the way technology progresses. So after more research, and finding a couple instances of people vaguely talking about how they used to use these sync boxes 'back in the day', I seemingly submitted to the fact that this thing can actually do what it says. But I still just couldn't understand how people can make the claim that this thing could sync any camera with a CRT TV when not every camera has an adjustable shutter. That was until I found this post on here from back in March of 2018. This actually makes sense, given how cathode ray tubes are sensitive to magnetic fields. Now before anyone dismisses the Film/Video Synchronizing Control Box, I should probably point out a few ways I will not settle for fixing the problem. 1. No I do not want to green screen the tv, even with artificial light to suggest television glow. It never looks real. 2. I don't want anything shot digitally, especially since the cost of a digital camera is more than that of the sync box. 3. I can't afford renting another film camera that has an adjustable shutter for merely one or two shots. I have considered number one as an option in the past for shots of the television screen only, however one also runs into the problem of the glass reflection not being there. And probably the biggest problem is my idea of a wide shot of the actor watching the television from across the room, both the television and the talent visible in the frame. Now while real television glow is nowhere near enough for a key light, it would have still been present in the frame thus casting some type of glow that would reflect near objects, even the slightest bit. I went a little off track as I often do, so here are my two questions. How does the Film/Video Synchronizing Control Box actually work? Can someone who has used this before please explain the setup and operation in detail? If applicable to my situation I'd love to own one.

Selling my Arri SR3 High Speed (150fps) super16 camera. The package comes with two HS 400ft magazines, eyepiece extension, base plate, "pig tail." 1.66 fiber optic groundglass (full aperture+safe.) Flight case. Extra AKS cable included (RS long cable, 3pin XLR power cable.) No batteries included with the package. The camera is clean and in good condition. Send me an email for more details and photos flarrondom@gmail.com Package is located in LA. Local pickup is preferred, but can ship at buyers expense.

Selling my canon 8-64mm t2.4 for s16mm format. Housing, glass and coating are in great condition. Its on bayonet mount, I will include Aaton and PL mount adapters. Both very solid adapters. It comes with a case. Lens is located in LA. Send me an email for more details flarrondom@gmail.com

Hi I just purchased an arri 35mm IIC, I’m new to using it I’m use to using 16mm. It has bncr mount. I need help understanding camera as in gates, what lens is good to use, or how to operate. Also what accessories do I need for it in order to shoot short films and longer features. Also does anyone know where to convert to pl mount.

Hi everyone I’m selling a great working arriflex 16s with accessories. The camera comes with Paris angineux 12-120mm zoom lens, battery charge belt, 2 mag, torque motor, lens filters, matte box, shoulder strap, two motors, and lens cap. Camera was serviced, lubed and cleaned a month ago. I’m selling camera for $1550 or best offer.

Hi I just recently purchased an arriflex 16st, it works amazing. it has a mag with zoom lens. I’m new to using this camera. Does anyone know how to use shutter and aperture. Also is their any places to find accessories.

Hi I’m looking for an arri 16 price range from 300-900