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Hey is this legal? I was going for an Ultra 16 gate,,, but I think I over achieved... I got this 6.25mm X 14mm with a nice 2.24 to 1 ratio. What problems do you think are headed my way? A!

Hello Crew!!! I would like some feedback, if possible, on these updated Bolex H16 graphics... Now Available from Dr. Bolex

Hello Again, Dr. Bolex here again, Anybody have any suggestions on an ALTERNATE power supply for the Bolex EBM's? Since the standard issue battery is not cheap but worse very hard to find. SO, what about a simple 12V 3A DC power converter plugs into any 110 AC outlet. Then can be plugged directly in the camera... Also an option is to have batteries for use in the field. Thought?... what am i missing?

Hey camera people!!! Some EBM cameras have battery power supply... anyone have any thoughts on just switching that out for a regular 12V power supply like what's on you laptops. only gotcha i see is you need power!... these batteries that are made for it are expensive and hard to find. Well I was going to do that to the EBMs unless someone can tell me why not! Thanks, Your replies are welcome, Arthur!

WOW it is possible to get 10X and 13X plus almost 16X it's huge. Without distortion and pleasant to view.!

Super 16 Reflex Bolex H16... The conversion has been made and ready for action!

Sorry for repeating. I think this is more proper to be here. - Hello, Recently I bought the bolex H16 rex5. But I am not sure if the viewfinder is okay. From its appearance it is 10x viewfinder. Hope I can get some advices from seniors here. First of all it has lever on the side but I can see the image very well when it is vertical position! And the horizontal position, it become very dark. But still I can see the image and specially bottom 30% parts become really dark. When I remove the lens and rotate turret, from the front side I can recognize lights through the prism glass. The light comes from viewfinder behind(usually where my eye should place there), so I can imagine the film will be damaged if I put the lever vertical position. When I change the lever horizontal position, I can sense from the front side the light is blocked somehow. Actually still I can see the dark image through the viewfinder. Also what I found strange is, when I turn the lever horizontal position I have to rotate lever forward direction(lens side, not to the eye side). I checked all bolex images, it seems completely opposite from other cameras or manual pictures. Here the summaries and my questions, 1. Is it possible the viewfinder lever works the other way around that horizontal position is closed but vertical position is openning the view? 2. Even if it is possible, but is it still normal that I can see the darken images through the closed viewfinder?(horizontal) 3. If the viewfinder has a problem, can I use the side-attachable viewfinder instead of this?(if so, I might block original viewfinder to avoid fogging damages) Thanks for reading, Best,yj

Hello Peeps, I have a Bolex H16 for sale on eBay. It is a great package, it is in good condition, for the most part and it was tested. The camera comes with case, a few lenses, adapters and some extra accessories. If you are interested please take a look at my auction, you will find detailed information about the camera in my post, as well as some pictures. Link to eBay post: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bolex-H16-Reflex-camera-in-absolutely-great-condition-lenses-accessories/152299098290?_trksid=p2050601.c100085.m2372&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D37338%26meid%3Defb46c8c2bc440f28e31079ecfbad9d1%26pid%3D100085%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D152299098290%26clkid%3D277360011974057540&_qi=RTM2247625 Link to a camera test video with lenses info: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p1OyMB8CNzc Big Resolution pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/76622647@N06/albums/72157672298789583 Thanks for looking.

Here are some Bolex Cameras I have on ebay! Please give me you thoughts! _________________________________ Bolex EBM Electric - 16mm Camera http://www.ebay.com/itm/291900354769?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 _________________________________ Bolex H16 Supreme - 16mm Film Camera http://www.ebay.com/itm/291903279277?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 _________________________________ Bolex H16 - 16mm Film Camera http://www.ebay.com/itm/291903075640?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 _________________________________ Bolex H16 Supreme - 16mm Film Camera http://www.ebay.com/itm/291903108823?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 _________________________________ Bolex REX 4 Reflex - 16mm Camera http://www.ebay.com/itm/291902824463?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 _________________________________ Bolex H-16 Supreme - 16mm Camera http://www.ebay.com/itm/291903094703?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 _________________________________ Bolex M - 16mm Camera http://www.ebay.com/itm/291900419339?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 _________________________________ Bolex H-16 S - 16mm Camera http://www.ebay.com/itm/291900359952?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

Bolex H-16 S http://www.ebay.com/itm/291900359952?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 ______________________ Bolex M 16mm Camera http://www.ebay.com/itm/291900419339?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2648 ______________________ Bolex EBM Electric 16mm Camera http://www.ebay.com/itm/291900354769?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 ______________________ Bolex H-16 Supreme 16mm Camera http://www.ebay.com/itm/291903094703?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 ______________________ Bolex REX 4 Reflex 16mm Camera http://www.ebay.com/itm/291902824463?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 ______________________ Bolex H16 Supreme 16mm Film Camerahttp://www.ebay.com/itm/291903108823?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 ______________________ ______________________ ______________________ ______________________ ______________________

I have here a Bolex H16 Supreme model. The camera is in excellent working condition (SN# 104670) made in 1954. and has been TESTED by shooting 16mm film with it. The results were GOOD. The camera threads/loads easily and runs smoothly. All the glass/view finder are clean and clear of fungus. The camera threads/loads easily. Includes a 100' take up spool and the the Bolex Octameter Director's viewfinder. A great accessory to check your shots at 16, 25, 50, 75, 100, 150mm viewing depths. I'm asking $175. USD - OBO plus shipping. NOTE: I timed camera with a full wind and set at 24 FPS... RUN TIME: 26 sec. + - one second... The springs drives strong and consistent. NOTE: the camera has been recently serviced and lubricated and tested by the Dr.Bolex Camera Service within the past 60 days. Please feel free to ask about any details. Thanks for looking!

This forum is abound with requests for cheep 16mm cameras. Very few however broach the subject of sound. I'm looking for a camera with sound sync and a reflex view finder. I have four 100' roles in my freezer so it would be beneficial to be able to use them as apposed to a camera that only shoots 400' roles. I've shot two short films using the Canon Scoopic. Both projects where dialogue free. From what I've been told there's no good way to sync sound to them. In fact, I was told if you tried the sound would become desynced. is this true? I'm looking for a camera under $500 that has sound sync and a reflex view finder. I'm currently looking at a Bolex M5 with a reflex zoom lens but it's a bit more than i'd like to spend.

Hi everyone! New guy on the block with a Bolex H16 Leader issue I have with single perforation films. Eager to try out this camera, (off ebay), I got two 100' rolls of Kodak VISION3 50D #7203 (single perforation film), loaded them and shot them all at 24 fps. Things sounds good in the camera, I was careful to have a good exposure using my sekonic light meter, etc. But when the rolls returned from the lab, surprise, surprise... Out of two rolls I only got this footage (the rest of the rolls look like what can be seen from 00.40 onward): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BM4_KKmN-ZU I did a cold check of how film runs through the camera and I discovered that there are no issues with 2-perf film. However, the Bolex H-16 doesn't seem to favor single perforation film, and the lower sprocket tends to push it off and tighten the loops. From there the film runs but the tight loops will mess the smooth transport and get the result shown in the example movie. Here's a shot I took of how the camera transports double and single perforation film. Please ignore the non-behaving receiving roll -- it's the only one I had on hand, an older type that was slightly bigger than the usual ones and was catching a little. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=898bs0Wep50 So the question I have -- since single-perf film are the most you can find on the market today, do I have any hope to fix this issue? thanks a lot, Gabi

Ok, I'm new to super 8, but I'm learning something new everyday. You guys have been a tremendous help. I do not own a projector, but I'm in the process of getting one. I currently own 2 cameras. I own the Nizo 561 Macro and a Kodak Brownie model 2. Both are in near mint condition. I have yet to use either camera. I foresee using the Nizo much more than the Kodak, though. Still, I've been looking into getting a projector that will play both super 8 and standard 8mm film. I want something small and inexpensive, but still good quality. A part of me, however, wants to get a projector that only plays super 8 film. I'be read that such projectors are much more reliable than the duo type. Well, I narrowed it down to 2 projectors, the Elmo FP-A and the Bolex 18-5L. Both are rather inexpensive and seem well-built. I like the built quality of the Bolex much more than that of the Elmo, though. The downside of it is that it only plays super 8 film and it does not have variable speed control. The Elmo, on the other hand, plays both types of films and has variable speed control. Assuming having the ability to play both types of films is not a big deal to me, my only issue with the Bolex will be the lack of variable speed. Everyone says I need a projector with variable speed if I plan to capture the image with a digital camera. My question is, do I really need to have a projector with variable speed? If I have the projector playing at 18 fps and I get the flicker problem when I try to capture the image with my digital camera, shouldn't I be able to correct the problem simply by adjusting the shutter speed of my digital camera? Your opinions will be of great help to me. Thanks.

Hello all! So i recently started working with a local artist for film photography. We got to talking and we want to film a short film using 8mm format. Camera wise i was thinking a Bolex D8L. I know you have to use double 8mm with this camera, and to be honest its one of the reasons that drew me to it. I plan on developing, splicing and editing the whole thing my self, i just had a few questions. 1. whats the chemistry should i be using? (same chemistry i use for developing my 120 film?) 2. whats the best way to split the film? 3. what projector should i be looking for to debut the film. 4.also if anyone could point me in the right direction to which film i should be buying that would be rad! We plan on premiering it at a gallery were putting together. Thank you!

Hi Everyone, I'm moving to South America in May and the time has come for me to purge items I simply can't take with me and/or never use. I'm sure many of you know this is painful. But there is no sense in me keeping these items in storage. I've tried to price them as low as I can to get rid of them quickly. There is some wiggle room for some of the more expensive items. Deals can be made if buying several items. I use Stripe for payments which accepts most credit cards. I do have some of these items on Etsy as well for those who feel more comfortable using it to pay. $900: First thing I'd like to see go to a good home is my Arriflex 16SR. I bought it to shoot a film noir but couldn't raise the budget and can't take it with me so it's for sale. It works fine and it works great with the blimp below. I bought this used from a dealer. The viewfinder is clear with no yellowing. The camera runs smoothly. This camera package comes with: 1 - Arriflex SR16 16mm motion picture camera 1- Eyepiece with eye cup 2 - 400' cartridges 1 - Battery Adapter 1 - Power cable 1 - Power adapter for plugging the camera into an outlet NO LENSES ARE INCLUDED. $900: If you have an Arriflex 16SR, you'll love this awesome sound blimp! You can't hear the motor at all once your Arriflex is in this beast. This item may possibly have to ship via Amtrak for the best shipping price. I shipped a Tuba that way and it only cost about $60 so I would imagine this would be cheaper. It's extremely heavy so you'll have to use it on a heavy duty tripod (I have some of them for sale too). When the camera is inside, you plug in the wires and you are able to completely control the camera from the buttons on the outside of the blimp. $600: Custom Bolex Rex 4 Sound Blimp. - Rare blimp but can't take it with me. It makes the Rex 4 ultra silent indeed. It's really heavy so it may be beneficial to ship via Amtrak. $400: Tobin Crystal Sync Motor for Bolexes - I only used this motor once on my Bolex Rex 5 and it works great! $80: Canon 514 xl-s with Case and Microphone - This camera comes with the original case (see condition in photo) and the original microphone. NOTE: Although this is a sound camera, sound film for this camera is no longer available. You can use this camera with modern Super8 films. With batteries inserted, the motor runs smoothly and the battery check works. This camera is untested with film and is being sold as-is.

Perfect condition like new. Location Poland.

Hi Guys I have a Angenieux 12-120 that i picked up for pretty cheap Cosmetics are good and so are the zoom and focus. But she is suffering from some fungus that looks like it could be on multiple elements. Is she worth getting cleaned or not with the time? Can anyone give me a price on what this would cost or make a recommendation on who I should go to. Thanks Cody

I recently picked up a Bolex Unimotor with the Transformer box, but I'm a little unclear on how the box works. There are three pegs and multiple holes and I don't know what the results of the different combinations in the holes are. Does anyone know more about it or have a manual for it? I'm also missing the terminal plate that's used for hooking the motor up to 6v batteries in the case if anyone has an idea of where to get one or how to maybe come up with an alternative (I have the case, just not the terminal plate)

I came across this teaser for a documentary by Alexandre Favre called Bolex: The Last Employee and thought the readers of this forum might appreciate it. https://vimeo.com/150185992 The contemporary footage was shot using a Bolex modified for super 16, and the audio was recorded on a Nagra. The historical footage and commentary is interesting. Particularly the bit about small camera assembly lines being staffed by women, who were presumed to be more agile than men. The level of precision and craftsmanship that went into these machines is pretty inspiring. I'm looking forward to seeing the full length documentary when it's released.

Does anyone out there know of someone in Toronto that has the ability to service a Bolex H16? I recently received an old Bolex to my great delight as a gift that I want to shoot on and I have the resources (stock, access to processing, ect.) to do it, but it seems that the camera needs a bit of care in order to get it running again. It winds, the motor runs, and film moves through it properly, the issue though is that it does not keep a constant speed and will slow down at the end of the wind or if it’s in the middle of a roll of film, move very slowly as though the motor is weak. I don’t know nearly enough about the inner workings of this piece of gear in order to consider opening it up and I think that most likely it needs to be cleaned and lubricated. I’m hoping to find someone in the city to do it because I don’t have the money to ship it off somewhere else and get it serviced. It’s also a non-reflex model so it is quite old and I don’t know the history behind it so I can only assume it’s been a very long time since it’s received proper care.

Hi, I'm looking to shoot my first 16mm short with a Bolex H-16. Going for a cinema-verite/60's avantgarde feel in terms of low light/natural light. Nearly all of the shots will be interior at night. Going for a look very similar to the scene below from 1:40 to 2:07 Curious to see if anyone can narrow down what film stock was used for this (or what similar stocks made today could work in a similar way)?? Also any idea what f.stop he was shooting at in said scene would be helpful as well! Thanks!

Hi cinema lovers, I've been a lurker on these forms for a while now, and I'm not sure if this is the right place, but but this is my first post! I'm a 3rd year film student at Falmouth University (UK) and I'm directing a short film called Philistine. I'm here to both share with you my kickstarter and receive any valuable information/tips on shooting with film (it's my first time). We'll be shooting on a Bolex H16, using Kodak 16mm Double X Black & White Negative (7222). It's Tungsten 200 and Daylight 250. SYNOPSIS: Cinema projectionist Marcelle works for an independent, arthouse, and old-school cinema. Though, the theatre is forced to close and he’s made redundant; the digital age has no use for disciples of the past. Down on his luck, his fate is bettered after an encounter with a young woman, Anna. His optimism is short-lived, though, and he becomes the victim of a different kind... On the surface Philistine is about a cinema projectionist who loses his job, but deeper down it's a film about film, cinema history, and a respect for the past. My viewpoint is that we, the younger generations, are becoming detached from the history of cinema - which I feel is a bad thing. Although the topic is dramatic, and when written "loses his job" sounds like a cliche student drama, the narrative and stylistic approach is absurd, abstract, playful, comical and shocking. As I'm posting on a cinematography forum comprised of cinema lovers, I assume it may mean something to you when I say that both the writing and directing of Philistine have taken heavy inspiration from the work of the French New Wave. For those that aren't familiar, their stance was particularly anti-Hollywood, and so they would make their films in the most rogue fashion possible; both in terms of narrative and technical approach. This is something I too believe in. I also feel as if many student films are the same (partly down to the use of the same cameras and partly down to their pursuit of replicating formulaic narrative and stylistic hollywood standards) and so with this film, and anything I create in general, I tried to stray as far from the 'norm' as possible. I hope that people see that in the kickstarter. 16MM FILM: The choice to shoot on 16mm was there from (almost) the very beginning. Following from the birth of the concept - old-school celluloid cinema projectionist being ousted by the digital - I knew that it would be hypocritical of me not to shoot on film. It's a film about film and the impact that the easily accessible digital has on it. And so, not only does film LOOK beautiful, it serves the story. I flirted with the thought for a while until I saw a 16mm film that my tutor had made and was promoting. After research I gathered some figures to see if this dream was actually possible; and it is, though I can't do it on my own. What's more, after seeing the 'Kodak deal' go down in February of this year ("Disney, Fox, Paramount, Sony, NBC Universal and Warner Bros all pledge to continue buying filmstock from the company, even as the majority of directors and cinemas choose to go digital"), I feel now more than ever it is important that we, the younger generations, keep film alive. BUDGET: The proposed budget for the kickstarter is £2000. Film costs (stock, camera, development) comes to just over half of that at £1100. Now, film in the digital age is of course an aesthetic choice, and we could easily just use a RED digital camera, but I hope those of you reading do see the reason for and passion behind the use of film for Philistine. The camera rental company and developing lab are extremely enthusiastic about my choice to shoot on film and are really helpful in answering questions and teaching us and taking us through the process. If any of you like the sound of my film and could spare some change towards it we'd be forever grateful; we have a lot of money to make in short amount of time and so every little helps! All feedback is welcome and thanks for your time! KODAK DEAL ARTICLE: http://www.theguardian.com/film/2015/feb/05/film-studios-kodak-deal KICKSTARTER: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/sophiehurry/philistine-16mm-short-film?ref=video FACEBOOK:https://www.facebook.com/PhilistineFilm/?fref=ts TWITTER: https://twitter.com/PhilistineFilm

Is it just the eyepiece itself? Something internal to the viewfinder? Jean-Louis? Dom?

I was interested in converting a family "heirloom" H8 to a digital system, but I thought why ruin a perfectly good camera when I can by a parts only camera on ebay. So I won a bid on what was advertised as a H8 for parts only. What I received was an H16 Reflex in fair condition. I don't feel good about tearing apart a H16 that might still have some life in it, and since I don't have the c-mount lenses, even if I successfully convert it, I'd need to acquire lenses for it. Any suggestions? Is it worth trying to resell it on ebay and getting an H8 like I really wanted?