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Showing results for tags 'focus'.
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As I watch movies I notice how the camera keeps it focus on an actor as he moves from one position to the other, moving closer/further and left to right and the camera keeps focus on the subject. I notice its a little off sometimes. On some movies it looks like the focus was way off but the shot was so vital that i guess they had to leave it in. Anyway, my question is how is this done??? Is it done manually? Or does the camera auto-focus? Film cameras and digital alike.
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Hey guys, I recently bought a Bealuieu 4008 ZM II . It looks very nice but I havent found a cheap external battery so it´s not powered yet. But U did some modifying on it (longer zoomstick, b+w filter etc.) I als deatached the automatic diaphragm system to get a more "pure" and manual feeling. But now when I look into the viewfinder the picture is not very sharp and when I try to focus with the focus ring nothing changes --- still the same unsharp image. Also when I look into the lens an move the focus ring nothing seems to move. Its kinda sad because the Schneider Optivaron 1.8/ 6-66mm is such a good lens and i reall dont want to buy a new one or send it to repair yet. Is this normal? Has anyone of yo had a similar problem with the lens? Help would be very great Lee
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Preston-Cinema-Remote-Focus-FIZ2-MDR2-HU2-For-Arri-Panavision-Red-/331967313669? Preston remote focus and separate remote iris control. Includes Handset 2, MDR2, 2 Batteries and Charger, Remote Iris Control w/10ft cable, 12 Focus rings, 3-pin Power cable (red), 3-pin turnover cable (blue). Pelican 1500 Case with dividers also included. When ready to move up to FIZ3 purchase Handset 3 and upgrade this MDR. I am the original owner. Recently recelled batteries. Excellent working condition. Add Preston or Heden motor and your ready to go. $5900 or highest bid. See photos at the eBay link above. -
Hey Guys, Recently I picked up a used Tokina 28-70 f2.8 on eBay. For the most part it seems like a nice lens but this one seems to have some an issue: When I switch to manual focus it seems to hit some bumps and makes a grinding noise when I focus it. I would normally be okay with it if it didn't affect the image but it does. I placed the lens on a sandbagged locked down tripod and attempted a rack focus. When it hits a certain point from focusing the entire image jumps like the tripod shakes like someone hit it. Furthermore the auto focus is really really noisy (not a big deal since I don't really take stills but might be indicative of the issue). I tried several different attempts and verified the tripod was locked down. Has anyone ever experienced this? Is there a fix? Should I just return the lens? Thanks!
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Everything you need to have a Preston remote focus. Includes Handset 2, MDR2, heavy duty DM1 Motor, , 2 Batteries and Charger, Remote Iris Control w/10ft cable, 12 Focus rings, 3-pin Power cable (red), 3-pin turnover cable (blue), Motor Cable (green). Pelican 1500 Case with dividers also included. When ready to upgrade purchase Handset 3 and replace boards in this MDR.(Cost $7900). Also will sell without DM1 motor if requested. I am the original owner. Recently recalled batteries. Excellent working condition. Photos available on request. $9800 OBO
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Hello, I have a lens that I like, it's Tokina 28-70mm f/2.6. The lens focus ring is both auto and manual, I want to leave it at manual at all times. Is there a way to adjust it to stay on manual? -
Hi folks, I own a Porst 650 XL and Porst 1500 XL Microcomputer and was wondering about the the precision of the split viewfinders on each of them. I read the instructions which instruct me to zoom in all the was, focus zoomed in, the zoom out to a desired wider angle. When I zoom in to focus, the split finder lines up, but the split finder lines do not stay aligned upon zooming out and I guess I thought the lens should be parafocal upon zooming. Does this mean my split viewfinder is not accurate? Any guidance is appreciated. Thanks, Greg Lytle
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Please judge my work. I recently started getting into film making. To be precise about four months ago. I am a 12 and was 11 when I started. Link: https://youtu.be/18nrtGxGx6g
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hey everyone - first post here! so i thought i'd ask a question that has baffled me for years.. and might have a very simple explanation (i'm a professional cameraman who has been doing this for a decade, so i'm a little embarrassed to be asking): quite often in both large scale TV and film productions i'll notice on CUs of actor's faces with shallow DOF that the focal point is a good inch behind their eyes - the tops of the actor's ears are tack sharp, but their eyes and face are slightly softer. when i first started noticing this i assumed it was a mistake / sloppy focus pulling, assuming that an actor's eyes should always be their sharpest feature in a close up, but then i noticed this "technique"(?) more and more often and realized it must be intentional. it occurred to me that DPs might be going for a soft focus effect on the face because it's more flattering on the subject, but then .. why is this an effect i see so inconsistently, even within a particular film? curious how obvious of an answer this might be. be gentle, i'm self taught and never went to proper film school.
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Hi everybody, I was wondering how people control the aperture and pull focus during a steadycam shot for example. Is it possible through only one remote? Or I'd be necessary to do so with 2 different motors and and remotes? Thank you in advance for the help, Davide -
Hello everybody, reading some manuals I see that they talk about lenses with linear focus mechanism and lenses with non-linear focus mechanism, what is the difference between them? Thanks in advance for the help
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Hello all, I use a BMPCC with an Angenieux 12-120mm f/2.5 lens; to attach the lens, I use an Arri-pl mount. Now, I have an issue with this lens, and I'm not sure if it can even be solved: I get an out of focus picture when the zoom distance is below 20mm while at an aperture below f/5.6. No matter how much I adjust the focus ring, the picture is entirely out of focus. Is this natural for which the lens does not work with the Blackmagic's sensor, or am I just a special case and there's something wrong with my lens? Thanks, John -
Hello guys. Need help finding a focus ring to adapt into my Schneider 16mm lenses. The problem is the circumference of the focus ring on the lens is 165mm. Redrock Micro has the type "A" ring with the minimum of 180mm. Years ago I've bought from Shoot35 in UK a model that fits perfectly, but they dont' have it anymore. I need 3 more. I know there are the universal 'malleable' rings, but I need the ones that have a larger diameter outside, to reach the follow focus gear. I've been looking around all the web, not even on eBay I could find, new or used. Any help much appreciated. Regards, Flavio -
Hi everybody, I'm still a beginner and I'm having some doubts about hyperfocal distance. Playinng with some DOF charts I've noticed that the hyperfocal distance changes with the aperture and the focal lenght of the lens. For example shooting 35mm 3-perf on a 50mm and at a F2 the hyperfocal distance is 161' and 6", so if focusing for this distance everything from 80' to infinity should be in acceptable focus (please tell me if I'm wrong about it), but what if the hyperfocal distance is something like 400', most lenses do not have a mark for it, so which distance should I be focusing for? Thank you so much in advance for the help!
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Early on I switched to a Leicina Special for my Super 8 tests and never seem to be able to get sharp images. Recently I have been running tests in Braun Professional. It seems to me that the same thing is happening. When I see other people's footage I'm jealous of the sharpness. Could it be another factor like the quality of the cartridge? I am using a Wittner refillable cartridge. In this I put short lengths of Pan-X to test development and other experiments. I see these people make a very sturdy looking refillable cartridge at quite a high price. Is it worth it? http://www.gkfilm.de/en/ Or do I need to check other factors, first? Am I just very bad at focussing?
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Looking for a buyer who shoots stills as well as motion and would rather own then rent a dual purpose Briese. I'm selling my Briese Focus.2 100. The Focus.2 100 is brand new and comes with motion and still setup. For motion, an older Briese 2.5K daylight HMI with just over 1,000 hours on head/ballast (works great). For stills, brand new, factory direct Briese strobe head fitted for Broncolor packs with a like new Broncolor Scoro S 3200 RFS Power Pack. All additional tubes/accessories/adapters needed for the Focus.2 100 to go between still and motion as well as 1/4 and 3/4 diffusion. The Focus 100 travel bag is included as well as an older, non-focus, square 100 reflector which is the only item that needs some tlc. Asking $28,000 ($40,000 if purchased separately - the Scoro alone is $14,000). I’m really interested in selling the whole kit (not breaking it up). So either the dual purpose fits your business model or you know someone who can appreciate the amazing features of the Broncolor Scoro S. If interested, message me and I’ll send photos (or video) of all the items. Again, the focus reflector is brand new, the Scoro is like new (6 jobs shot on it), and the only item with age, the Briese HMI ballast and head, has just over 1000 hours. Thank you. Mark -
Hey Guys, I've been tasked to pull focus for a short film that consists of one 12-minute Steadicam shot. The director wants to use only natural light and practicals, in addition to shooting wide open on an Arri/Zeiss Master Prime 18 mm lens. Do you guys have any suggestions on how I can achieve the best results? Thanks Sam
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This is a transmitter and receiver that was designed to make the hard wired iris control from Preston into a wireless system. The unit for sale includes the (hard wired) iris control hand unit from Preston, the cradle that connects the iris control to the transmitter and battery, the receiver, and a Heden M26VE motor. Sale also includes (motor and power) cables, battery for the transmitter, and a battery charger. (additional blank iris disk included) This unit (receiver) is wired the same as the Preston and so will drive a Preston motor with the standard Preston cable. I used this system with a Preston 3 motor system. The focus and zoom were plugged into the standard MDR and the Iris was plugged into the small receiver. The design of the cradle allows the hand unit to sit upright without additional brackets. This unit can be used to drive any of the gears of the lens - so it could also be used as a remote focus device. ****Update**** Some people have asked if I would sell it without the motor. Yes - willing to sell without the motor. PM me if you are interested.
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Is there such a filter that allows you to focus only on small part of the frame, (not necessarily in the middle, using a very wide lens (and working with f/stop around 2.8)? any experience with any of these filters? the scene is the following: frontal shot of the nurse holding a big siring, I want to focus on the big distorted needle in the very foreground, blurring the rest of the image, and being able to rack focus to the character. Can I do it with a filter on set and not in post? thank you so much :)
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Made me giggle, anyways. Move over Bartek!
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Hey guys, Last night I was working as a B Cam 1st AC on an indie film shooting with Arri Amiras + Master Primes on an overnight. The majority of the time, we were sitting in the range of T/1.4 - 2.8 (regularly opening up all the way or near) and often were on fairly long lenses (sometimes B cam was on a 135mm, yikes) and pulling focus was quite challenging. Now I understand that pulling wide open on longer lenses is never going to be an easy feat, and I consider myself pretty solid at pulling focus in more healthy conditions, but I'm just wondering if any long-time seasoned ACs out there would be willing to share any insight they may have about his process. Are there any tips you may have for pulling with such shallow DOF besides just doing it over and over again and developing natural muscle memory? The frustrating thing was that we had very little rehearsal time during many of our scenes, so I was left to just "feel it" and do my best as the cam-ops frantically floated around, leaving little room for marks (which were pretty useless anyway with the slightest mark adjustment rendering them quite off). Also, how kosher is it to request a deeper stop in order to get the shot easier? Is this something that is acceptable to do? Thanks guys, -M
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The focus adjustment ring on my bolex h16 reflex camera is stuck. I have tried focusing the ground glass with the lenses removed and the camera pointed at a bright light source. The ring will move a little bit and I can see the ground glass blurring and sharpening, but I do not have full movement of the ring. I tried losening the screw on the focus ring and re-tightening it, and it still will not budge. It feels as if it is catching on something, I can hear a little clicking noise when I try to turn it. I am thinking that I may need to take apart the diopter to find out what is jamming it up internally. I can't figure out how to do this- apart from tightening and loosening the screw on the focus ring. If it is possible, I would like to try to repair this by myself. Any suggestions?
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Hello. Would like to get some feedback on good/affordable gears for 16mm film lenses, mostly for BMPCC. I own a BMPCC , Schneider and Kern Primes. Looking for : => A good CAGE I own this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMPC-Cage-Top-Handle-Grip-15mm-BMPCC-for-Blackmagic-Pocket-Camera-support-system-/261534271701?pt=UK_Photography_Movie_Camera_Accessories&hash=item3ce4a848d5 , which scratches the body a bit when in and out, too heavy and annoying to do Steadicam work. Thinking to get the Varavon (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261398476332&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en) as Tilta is quite pricey although people say it's great, I never tried. THe good on the Varavon seem is that it looks light as per designs, but sill the Clamp is too high so in the Steadicam is hard to balance, so I might use one in my shoulder rigs that might be 2/3 of the height. I'm looking for a good one that is practical and fits well, if any other suggestion please let me know. => Good adaptable RINGS for follow focus. Still couldn't find small than 50-60mm (like this 60mm: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=281387086694&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en) as the barrel of the kerns are ridiculously small (25mm wide). And I'm not sure if the 60mm would fit a Schneider barrel of 45mm for example. Any experience/Ideas of rings? Any other tips around BMPCC gear and accessories, just put in here. Thanks guys.
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This kit is totally reliable, everything works. Includes 3 motors, Microforce, etc. Hand Unit just serviced, motor rebuilt, new battery. - MDR-1 Motor Driver Hand Unit 1 FI+Z Transmitter 3x DM-1 Motors 3x Preston Motor Brackets (short, medium, long) Microforce V+F Control Microforce Bracket 3x HU-1 Batteries Fast Charger w/ AC cable 12 Focus Marking Rings 64 pitch gear (PV Iris) 48 pitch gear (PV Zoom) Backup Transmitter Antenna 3x 15mm step-down bushings (Arri) 3x 5/8” step-down bushings (PV) Short MF to HU cable 50’ MF to HU cable 50’ Control Cable (to hardwire hand-unit) 3x Green Motor Cables 5x Blue Run/Stop Cables (Arri 3-pin Fischer, Arri 11-pin Fisher, PV 10-pin Lemo, Moviecam 2-pin Fischer, RED 10-pin Fischer) 4x Red MDR Power Cables (2x Arri 3-pin Fischer, 2x PV 2-pin Lemo ZLP) $8,900 Email: assistantcamera@hotmail.com
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Title says it all. I'm shopping for a rental house and we're trying to pick up as much used gear (in great condition) as we can, before purchasing anything new. If anyone has leads on people who might be selling the following items, please let me know! 5D Mk. III TV Logic 5.6" Monitor Arri MFF-2 Bartech Package 17" Panny Sachtler Video 18 1x1 Litepanel Bi-Color 4x4 Kinos Arri Softbank IV Kit Diva 400 kit
