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Hi all, Can't remember from where, but I've heard of the ability to shoot on print stock just as one would on regular motion picture stock, with the idea of having a very punchy and contrasty look. Does anyone have experience with this? Looking at the Kodak catalog, it seems print stock primarily comes in 2,000' rolls, which would make the process of downspooling a bit tedious...

Hi, I'm planning on applying to a film school this summer, for a directing course. My main focus has always been directing, with cinematography being both a fascinating hobby and something I've had to do for the ultra low budget films I've made. Now, the requirements are that you submit at least two films, of which at least one "made on film (16mm, super 16mm or 35mm)". I've got plenty of digital films to submit, but nothing on film. So I have to make a new one. I've never shot anything on film and, as much as I'd like to have this experience, it would be very expensive. Even with clearance stock, if you factor in renting the camera, developing, scanning, then making the final prints, it would run into the thousands. So I've thought that, since I would be scanning the film anyway and edit it in an nle, I could forgo shooting on film and shoot digitally instead, making a final print on film. The Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera has the right sensor size, dynamic range and resolution, so the way I figured, it would look very close to film. And the grain would be in the final print anyway. Might be a weird or crazy plan, but that's why I'm running it people who've worked on film before. Any suggestions welcome! Thanks, Paul. P.S. Regarding the ethics of it, I'm applying to a Directing course. Directing is the same, no matter the medium. If it was a Cinematography course it would've been a different story, but as it is, I seems like a pretty random requirement.

Hello everyone, I have researched online and can't come to any solid conclusions about how sound design and/or mixing is done when you're working optically. For instance: I'm making a movie and seriously considering taking it the full photochemical route, ie. shooting on 35mm scope, processing the film at Fotokem, getting a work print made (no DI), cutting the film on a flatbed, conforming the negative, timing the answer print, and striking a release print. The idea is to keep my movie completely off a computer. But the thing I can't seem to wrap my brain around is the audio part of the process. How do I sync the separately and digitally recorded dialog to my work print? How do I mix in the music I want? Most importantly, the sound effects? I tend to have substantial sound design in my films, sometimes 150 tracks or more, and spend around 80% of my post production process on sound. Is there a way to do this optically? Should I just go with a DI? I hear a lot of terms like sepmag, and 35 sound mag, but I'm not really sure what they are or how you edit with them. Thanks in advance for your help. Colin

Hello, all. Tommy at Video & Film Solutions transferred the 35mm blowup of my first short film (and Tommy is a great guy who does great work) and as expected, it has some spots. Long story, but in the blowup process all 2,300 or so frames have 3 to 5 specs. They are in fixed locations so normal DNR cannot be used.And yes, they are crazy distracting. You might wonder why I didn't transfer from a 16mm print. Well, I don't have one. To save our budget we had a 35mm blowup made directly from the negative. I have the 16mm negs in A B C rolls and transferrinf them means much more money (more than double). Not in the budget. Next time though. I just wanted to get this thing transferred since all I have had for years is a crappy VHS from Avid. :angry: Anyway, I have watched a few tutorials and read some articles. No two methods are alike, that's for sure. And I gotta say, it looks a little out of my league. But I'll give it a shot and would love to hear from the experts on my best shot. I am on a PC, a pretty darned good one and I run Adobe CS5 Production Premium. I do not have the money to upgrade or buy new software. I need to work with what I have or what's free. But I imagine I could do a free trial of CS6 since I see some are using Premiere pro and Photoshop's clone brush/tool. I wonder if installing it and then removing it will mess up my CS5 install??? I'll be patient with this. I know there is no overnight fix and that it will take work, but advice is welcome. This tutorial looks outdated and possibly inadequate for what I need. https://vimeo.com/24850536 A newer way, requiring CS6. http://www.premiumbe...ects-photoshop/ Here is what I am dealing with. (please note... These are not frame exports. I just hit print-screen with the file in QT and then pasted them into Paint Shop Pro, so do not judge telecine from these examples.)