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Found 3 results

  1. Got some questions about pushing and pulling film stock after reading this fantastic article about shooting La La Land on film, and after a recent wedding I shot. I'm not a complete novice or anything but still only been shooting motion picture film for a couple years now. As I said, I shoot weddings among other things on Super 8 and sometimes, you just gotta deal with the light you're given. Last wedding I shot, the ceremony was EXTREMELY dark, I'm talking like, you could barely see the couple with your eyes dark... So I was shooting 500T on my Beaulieu 1008XL (f1.2 lens, 225º shutter) wide open then I had CineLab push it a stop in development. I DID get back an image amazingly but it is pretty darn grainy. It's ok but I'll have to work around it with my other footage. And it got me to researching it some... After reading about pushing and pulling online and on Kodak's website here it seems like pushing may not be the best idea for low light contrary to my thinking. Plus this quote "Push processing is not recommended as a means to increase photographic speed." I know pushing only increases light that's hit the film therefore more light gets brighter whereas little light get a little brighter hence more contrast. So why does Kodak speak against it so much? In low light should I just shoot at box speed and then fix in the scan. I know Phil of Pro8mm says on his site that pushing is largely unnecessary with the quality of scans these days. Thoughts from other scan labs like Gamma or CineLab? What's the point in pushing film then? Also... pulling film. In the La La Land article, they mention shooting 250 at 100 and 500 at 200 and then pulling in development. Does anyone do this? For film I've overexposed, I've always just done normal processing and fixed in post due to the large latitude of V3. Would it be better to pull? They mention finer grain and lower contrast in the article. I always just figured it was a fix for overexposure. A novice viewpoint, clearly. Also how they heck are they shooting nighttime at 200ASA!? Sorry for the long post but a bit confused and curious about more experienced shooters' thoughts.
  2. Hi everybody, I was wondering how people control the aperture and pull focus during a steadycam shot for example. Is it possible through only one remote? Or I'd be necessary to do so with 2 different motors and and remotes? Thank you in advance for the help, Davide
  3. Hey guys, Last night I was working as a B Cam 1st AC on an indie film shooting with Arri Amiras + Master Primes on an overnight. The majority of the time, we were sitting in the range of T/1.4 - 2.8 (regularly opening up all the way or near) and often were on fairly long lenses (sometimes B cam was on a 135mm, yikes) and pulling focus was quite challenging. Now I understand that pulling wide open on longer lenses is never going to be an easy feat, and I consider myself pretty solid at pulling focus in more healthy conditions, but I'm just wondering if any long-time seasoned ACs out there would be willing to share any insight they may have about his process. Are there any tips you may have for pulling with such shallow DOF besides just doing it over and over again and developing natural muscle memory? The frustrating thing was that we had very little rehearsal time during many of our scenes, so I was left to just "feel it" and do my best as the cam-ops frantically floated around, leaving little room for marks (which were pretty useless anyway with the slightest mark adjustment rendering them quite off). Also, how kosher is it to request a deeper stop in order to get the shot easier? Is this something that is acceptable to do? Thanks guys, -M
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