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Found 62 results

  1. Hello there everyone, for an upcoming project we are required to move a 4kw HMI on some sort of dolly approximately 10-12m to simulate the sun moving across the room. The caveat is, that our location is on the first floor. Which means I need some sort of a smart solution to secure a wind-up stand (extended all the way to approx. 4m) against tipping over, whilst at the same time begin able to move it along the tracks. Ive been thinking about constructing a larger platform for a GFM Quad-Dolly made out of wood or similar material with extendable aluminum struts so we could tie the lamp down to the platform in order to prevent it from moving. Not too sure if this will work though. Maybe one of has had a similar issue in the past and would like to share her/his approche. Thanks in advance and stay healthy, Montell
  2. I'm in the process of putting together a lighting style for an upcoming horror feature that I am shooting. Will we be on the Alexa Classic. Question: When shooting interiors, are there perks to using a blue-gelled Maxi Brute rather than an HMI when it comes to simulating daylight? There will be tungsten practicals in the shot as well.
  3. Hey gents, So I tested the Forza 500 up against my Profoto 1200w HMI today, and figured some of you might be interested in the results. Long-story short? I was sadly underwhelmed by the output of the Forza. Colour-wise the Forza was very impressive. Effectively equivalent to the HMI bulb according to my spectrometer. And the beam from the LED is remarkably even too (evidently a COB has significant advantages over an open-faced point-source light in this regard) Output-wise however, there's clearly still no replacement for displacement. At 800 ISO and somewhere around 4-5 meters away from the lights (I didn't measure the distance, as I was only interested in comparative output), using a 50 degree Profoto Magnum reflector on the HMI (focussed to an evenly-spread beam), and the Forza's slightly tighter-beamed standard reflector, the numbers came in at: - Profoto 1200w HMI: f/11 + 2/10 - Forza 500w LED: f/5.6 + 8/10 So approximately a 1.5 stop advantage to the HMI (that's three times more output - you'd need three Forza 500s to match the output of the 1200w Profoto) Pairing the Forza up with it's Fresnel attachment (which works well, and has a pretty remarkable 45-10 degree range) I got: - Forza 500w LED @ 45 degrees: f/5.6 + 1/2 - Forza 500w LED @ 20 degrees: f/8 + 6/10 - Forza 500w LED @ 10 degrees: f/11 + 1/2 Zooming the Magnum reflector on the Profoto in to create it's most intense hotspot (the hotspot being about twice the width of the Forza at 10 degrees - but the outer edges of the beam still spreading close to 50 degrees overall) I got: - Profoto 1200w HMI: f/22 + 8/10 That's just a hair shy of f/32 (and with broad-beam reflector). With a tighter reflector that didn't lose as many lumens to the broader surrounding beam/spill those numbers would go up even higher. Which suggests to me that these higher-output COB LEDs are basically still on par with HMI on a lumens-per-watt basis. Now if we were comparing to an HMI fresnel, we'd lose around a stop to the lens, and there'd be less in it (maybe only half a stop). But compared to any open-face HMI (bug-lights like the K5600 Jokers or this Profoto of mine, or any Arrimax HMI like the M18) there's still a massive difference in output. I was kinda hoping there wouldn't be, so I could pick up the Forza 500 or the Aputure 600 and have all the output delights of the smaller HMIs, without the all bulb-blowing/5-minute warm-up times/and the joys of proper colour-shiftless dimming. But I fear we'll be waiting some time yet before we get there.
  4. ARRI Studio Ceramic 250 Hi Guys I am interested to hear peoples opinions on this light it sounds like something that would be very handy to have in my kit. It seems to have a built in ballast and the bulbs can be swopped between a tungsten 3300k bulb to a hmi type bulb with a 5500k temperature. They power usage is 250 watts and has a light output the equivalent of a 1k tungsten. They sound to have a lot versatility and they run cooler temp wise. But am i missing something here. Why are these not that popular, fair enough they are an older light fitting buti have never seen one of these on set or in any hire houses? The CRI is 90 is this the reason. I d love to hear opinions on this light the pros and the cons off anyone who has used them. I am considering buying one but dont have any where to hire it from to test one first.
  5. Hello there folks. My 2.5 strand hmi barn doors have unfortunately have gone missing. This light is a linch pin in my kit and is pretty useless without the barn doors. I just wondered if anyone had any spare ones they are willing to sell. I have searched the internet looking for them and had no luck. Any leads or suggestions of where to look would be deeply appreciated.
  6. Hi, We are two technicians working in the film industry in France (a grip guy and a gaffer) and we just discovered this very interesting forum. We particularly noticed that gaffers and cinematographers were asking questions about light output and what aperture is obtained at a certain distance. It happens that with the help of two IT engineers we developed an iOS app responding to this question about 2 years ago. First and for all, we’re not going to post messages everywhere on this forum to sell our app nor are we going to pollute your threads to gain in visibility. We just think some of you might be interested in what we created and since we’re a really small team working on off-time we can’t do any real advertising, so you probably wouldn’t know our app existed. Our app is called Predilux (for pre-diction and lux for light) and predicts the exposure as measured by a light meter, by choosing a light source and a distance. Or inversely predicts the distance to the light source by specifying the exposure. Predilux takes into account: Camera settings (FPS, ISO, Shutter angle) Source settings (Focalisation, Lenses, Grids, Dimmer, CCT, etc) Gels mounted on or close to the source (All ROSCO e-colour+ range) All results have been experimentally verified by us with a light meter in rental houses. For each source setting we made several measurements at different distances and this took a lot of time. So Predilux does not rely on constructor’s data, but on real data reflecting the state of the equipment as found in rental houses. Our data sometimes differs from the constructor’s data. Here is a quasi exhaustive list of the sources measured and included in the Predilux (12/2019) : Tungsten ARRI 150, 300 Plus, 1K Plus, 5K Fresnel, T10, T12, Rubylight (MFL lamps) Briese 77, 100, 140, 180 with lampes ranging from 650 W to 2K Mole Richardson Softlite 1K, MaxiBrut 16 (MFL lamps) Openfaces such as Redhead, Blonde, Desisti Renoir 5kW and LTM Cyclight 2K ETC Source 4, Dedolight, Zaplight, CMC 20K, etc. HMI ARRI AS 575, 1200, 4K, 6K, 12K, Arri M18, M40, M90, ArriMAX 12K & 18K K5600 JokerBug 200, 400, 800, Alpha 1600, 4K, 9K, 18K AFM 575, 1200, LTM Cinepar 2.5K Fluorescent KinoFlo 2ft, 4ft & 6ft LED ARRI S30, S60, S120, S360 KinoFlo Celeb 200, 250, 400, 450, 850 DMG SL1, SL1 mini, SL1 Switch, MaxiSwitch Mole Richardson Tweenie, Senior, Tener Aladdin Biflex 1x1, 1x2, Flexlite 1x4, 350 Dedolight bi90, Cineroid LMD400, Velvet V1 Balloon Airstar Gaffair 1200, Elipse 4000, PAD 9ft x 9ft, Tube 16K If any of the administrators of this forum wish to try out our app, we would be happy to give them one or several free life-time activation codes. For all the other users, our app is available on the Apple Store (). An Android release is planned. If you have questions or requests, don’t hesitate to contact us at this address predilux@wid.la Thanks for reading this post and we hope you thought it was interesting, Georges Harnack for the Predilux Team
  7. I have a shoot coming up and we're planning on using a chimera L on a daylight fresnel. I don't use chimeras much and I need to pick which size light to use. A D12 is going to be much easier to rig, but we have the option of using a D25 if we need the extra stop of light. Budget is tight and we can only afford one light. I find the arri photometrics app handy for direct sources and was wondering if I could find any info on how much the chimera is going to cut the light by ? Say x ft away, for a 1.2k source how much light will I get centre and off to the sides by about 30º ? Would be nice if chimera provided a photometric map of the light falloff for 1 or 2 typical sources, but they don't unfortunately.
  8. The owner of Commons Productions, Spencer Commons, is retiring. He’s been in the lighting business for 30+ years. I’ve learned a bunch from him about being a gaffer. He’s now selling his grip and lighting equipment - c-stands, kino flo, tungsten, LED, hmi, flags, electric ... you name it, he’s probably got it. Prices are good. http://www.commonsproductions.com
  9. Hey all! I'm doing a showreel shoot this August, and it will probably be really sunny and have a out door location coming up. Due to the limited budget and power available, the biggest light i can get is a off brand 2.5k HMI and a home made 6by diffusion from shower curtain. I was wonder if these are enough to make a impact? My indie rental house didn't tell me which model of HMI we are getting, but it's safe to assume it won't be as effective as the Arris (maybe matching output of M18 idf we're lucky) . I'm not diffusion the light, maybe a 1/4 or 1/8 cto max for some scenes. Any input will be appreciated as always. Jing
  10. In one of the book I am reading, it says "Most of them (HMI Lighting) run on 240 volts and can be used only with crystal cameras." I didn't get any clear information on crystal cameras in google search. What does crystal camera mean? Thanks.
  11. Hey everyone, I'm wondering if I were to use a 1.2k HMI with a magnetic ballast in the UK on wall power (50hz) - if keeping my shutter angle at 180, will I get flicker at 50fps or 100fps or is it only likely to happen when I move off these frame rates? I know magnetic ballasts can be a little more finicky for flicker.
  12. I read online that you can ONLY use HMI lights with inverter generators. Question 1: What would happen if I tried to power an M18 with a generator that was not inverter? It's just a regular gas genny. Would that damage the light or ballast? Would it just not work? Questions 2: I have a Ryobi 1800w running watt, 2300 starting watt generator seen here: I'm told that hmi's require a higher wattage when striking. Would I be able to strike an m18 with this Ryobi generator? Is 2300 enough to strike it? What's the wattage required to strike? Question 3: If I tried to strike the m18 on that ryobi genny and it was not enough power, what would happen? Would the light just not turn on? Is there any risk of damaging the light when you try to strike it and there is not sufficient power?
  13. Hi again everyone. Not really a question this time but would wanted to show my lighting plan for an upcoming project to get some feedback. I have attached my lighting plan... The talent will be talking to camera and cooking. The background will be dressed with Christmas decorations and what not to celebrate the coming season. I want the lighting to be very soft and cold, to have that winter feel. I'm shooting it all in daytime. I'm using an M18 through the left window (only window our too the left) through a bed sheet which will highlight the background and rim our talent. The other M18 is inside in front of the talent which will be my key for her. I plan to bounce it and have the light come through another bedsheet to get it softer. For the fill, I will bounce it in from my M18 sources. I guess actually I do have a proper question. Would you recommend an Arri Skypanel S30C through multiple diffusion instead of the M18 inside? The kitchen is very small so I did think at one point maybe I should go for that instead. The shoot will start early and end before sunset. Anyways any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks so much!
  14. Ebay Listing - https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/302662389272?rt=nc
  15. Both working, both are in reasonable condition. One has barn doors, other hasn't They're big and heavy, so I'll ship to Europe only. https://www.ebay.ie/itm/202085601853?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 https://www.ebay.ie/itm/202085600277?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 I also have one 4k Sirio HMI with magnetic ballast, I'll also will let it go if someone interested
  16. Hi everybody I am preparing a shooting as a gaffer, on a non-stage interior and I am looking for the best way to light a 6x6m. (20x20') green screen and white screen. Here is the camera configuration: Red epic dragon (maybe an Hellium sensor, depending on the production department) 25 fps 1/250 ISO 800 Zeiss CP2 The topic of the video is a free-fall simulator demonstration. We are shooting at night for day, in an area from a shopping center measuring 14m. large x 7m. long x 14m. tall (46' large x 23' long x 46' tall). There are not structures to hang on the fixtures. On the back there is a window as big as the wall (46x46'), against a steel structure where we are going to hang a 20x20' green screen. We have, of course, a tight budget so we cannot afford a trilite structure (stage columns...), which is far more expensive as we thought (5K€). On the other side, we can afford 2 articulated boom lifts, high and long enough to top light the green screen. I am thinking to hang the fixtures at 8m. (26') We are using HMI fixtures to key and backlighting (3 Arrisun 2,5K), as well as 2 Skypanels S60C. So... I am thinking about using 2 "K5600's Alpha 4k" with the "space beam/space light" configuration, the first at 2 meters (6,5') from the edge of the screen, and the second at 4 meters (13'). So I am wondering if: 1. Is it enough to evenly light the 20x20' green screen, 2. Will it have enough output to properly light it. We are only doing a few shots on green screen. After that, we are going against white screen (same area). Do you think the same configuration will be enough to have a nice white background? I hope my explanation is good enough. I can upload a plan if you need. Thanks for your feedback! PS: I apologize for my english mistakes.
  17. I have a MUST SELL great deal! A 12k Sunray HMI Fresnel with Magnetic Ballast, all cables in perfect condition, scrim set in box, front cover, and a roller dolly. The kicker is it has a BRAND NEW never lit globe (a $1,000 Value!) I'm in North Hollywood and selling it all for only $3,000! I love this light, and the paint is good, no dents, the internals are good (reflector and wires are in great condition) and the glass is clean with no damage! It was barely used, just stored forever. Everything is included (But NO STAND). Below are more detailed photos. Please call me at 818-339-6933 or email me at timacs@me.com Thanks, Tim Alexander
  18. Hi, i'm currently in my second year of Uni and for my dissertation my question is "Will LEDs Lights be able to replace every type of light used in film production? " If anybody who has knowledge of different types of lights could help? By doing this questionnaire I'd really appreciate it thank you. :) https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSd75cWHDKLyzAQ4gygI19yFEOWUUhkpW1tTUJZZWWP9uVXvmA
  19. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dedolight-5Ft-Panaura-Daylight-Tungsten-Kit-Eggcrate-/302468506880?hash=item466c872500:g:PVsAAOSwkWNZobb3
  20. I'm looking to mimic this fight scene from the matrix with bright flashing lights outside these windows - supposedly lightning from the storm outside. (see attached 1-3) My assumption at first was that they maybe had some HMI's hooked up to flicker boxes. But then I thought that HMI's have issues with hot strikes so maybe that's not what was used? Can an hmi work on a flicker box to simulate lighting? If so, what reccomendations of a flicker box do you reccomend I use? If I can't use an HMI to simulate lightning with flicker, how else can I achieve this effect? I'm hoping to only use 2 light sources that are bright enough to shine through windows like this and get reflections on the floor and walls? Some how I need that flicker effect done even if it's not from a flicker box. You can see more of the fight scene in motion at: https://youtu.be/0EpC2T00PAE?t=3m32s Also attached is the building I will be shooting in and the windows I'll be shining through. All advice welcome!
  21. Hello Everyone, My name is Vicken Joulfayan, and I am a new member here! I am a graduate student at the New York Film Academy in the Masters in Filmmaking program but my focus is primarily on cinematography. I am the DP for seven master thesis film projects, two of which are scheduled to be shot in the next several weeks, and am in need of advice for lighting. Although I have researched a lot and have a general idea of how to light each project, I need your advice in deciding which exact equipment to rent. The projects have budgets but they are minimal. I've embedded links to the first two projects I am working on in June, and they include the location image and overheads. Project 1 : https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByO5kv_UG9-NQkxDekNQdHZRdkE/view?usp=sharing For the bedroom night scene, we are recreating rain outside the window ( the space is visible in the picture, which is almost 3 feet, and then there is 6 feet downhill grass. The light will be put there at the bottom of the slope). Project 2: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByO5kv_UG9-NSnd3eDdLbUNnRjg/view?usp=sharing I am trying to keep it as simple as possible when it comes to lighting this one if it is a possibility. For both projects during day and night scenes, all the locations have big windows. I was thinking of 1.2hmi? par? or maybe Led even? Example aputure lightstorm ls1s) and additional fill IF needed inside, and practicals. Would I need a bigger frame than a 4x4 if i have exterior shots ( backyard shots)? I want to be able to see inside( characters) well exposed yet also have the outside location exposed ( outside logically more but still clear) without having the need to light so much additional light inside (tosco scrim black). Would a small LED be effective to create eye-light? Also we get 10 tiffen filters of our choice, Iwas planning to get these after research: - IR ND 1.2 / 1.5 / 1.8 - ND.6 ND.9 soft grad - Black pro mist 1/8 1/4 1/2 - Soft fx 1/2 - 1 + there is this grant where i can chose 6 full rolls or equivalent from LeeFilters that i am applying for. What do you guys recommend as primary to have!? cto, and ctb i think would be sad to have full rolls of! My choices are: 1- OPAL 2-GRID CLOTH 1/4 .. 3- HIGHLIGHT 4- ND 5- + - green. ? Equipment: Red Scarlet Mysterium X, EF mount. Lens given from school : Rokinon I also have the option of renting (POSSIBLY ) either zeiss CP.2 ,Canon Cine primes or Leica R cine mod. Which do you advise?! I really appreciate any feedback! Thank you in advance! Best, Vicken Joulfayan (818)224-9124 Vicken@joulfayan.com
  22. Is there way for someone like me to start using a generator so that I might power an M40 or an Arrisun 60? I love the M18 because I allows me to work with a decent amount of light on a very small budget. I've been shooting commercial projects on a thin budget by running with one M18, a few fluorescent fixtures a great deal of light modifiers. In the states, I believe an M18 is about the most powerful light you can run off a house or office circuit. (If there are more powerful options, I'd love to use them) Is the answer as simple as renting or buying a 6500 watt portable generator or is there more to it?
  23. I'm curious on what kind of output would be necessary to key from a light outside a window into a small (10ft x 12ft) room for a daylight interior setup. This is assuming no direct sunlight or night. Do I need a 12/18K or can I use something like an M90, M40, or even something of lower output?
  24. Hello Guys, I know this has been posted before but I never found a conclusion to it. I've always learnt that you can't restrike/hot-strike HMI bulbs meaning to turn them off and straight back on without blowing the bulb full-stop. Every shoot I've ever been on this has never been the case nor even close to a concern from the DP. They restrike the bulb just 30 seconds after it being shut off even when the bulb has been on for 10-15mins or so, it makes a nasty sound from the bulb trying to re-light but other than that it's fine everytime. So if someone can clarify some questions for me? The term Hot-Strike literally means from striking the bulb when it's HOT HOT, like full temperature hot, then it will blow or not restrike? Does the ballast & bulb actually have a major impact on how safe it is to restrike in reality, not theory. If the top question is true, how long is it best to wait? The higher the wattage = the more heat so the longer the wait? Cheers Guys, will appreciate this.
  25. Good evening, I'm researching lighting purchase options. in addition to HMI. A photographer and videographer contact suggests I go with LED; they are in the running along with LEP. I have my eye on a Joker 200 or 800. Does anyone have an idea on what the typical service and repair costs are (rough estimate or actual)? Thanks, Jesse
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