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Hello guys and gals, So, yesterday, while processing some Tri-X Super 8, something nightmareish happened during the second developpement after re-exposure : after 1 min in the 2nd developer (where the emulsion properly reacted and darkened), it slightly started to lift from the plastic and then it litteraly disloved into the developper : no floating gelatin flakes, just a plain black developer... The weird thing is that I already processed Tri-X this way, here is an example : https://vimeo.com/326184819 Here is my protocole, I have included as much info as I can : 1 – Soaking in a 25°C water bath. 2 – 1st Developer : Ilford Multigrad 1+9, 20min (continuous agitation on 1st minute, then 10sec each minute), 25°C. 3 – Hardening stop bath : Adox EcoStop 1+29 + 40ml/L of Tetenal Hardener. 6 min, 20°C, continuous agitation. (https://www.fotoimpex.com/chemistry/tetenal-hardener-to-be-added-to-the-fixer-or-stop-bath-1000-ml.html?cache=1564733928) 4 – Washing, runing water, 2 minutes. 5 – Bleach : Potassium permanganate 0,4% + Sulfuric Acid 10% equal part, 6 min, 20°C, continuous agitation. 6 – Washing, runing water, 2 minutes. 7 – Clearing bath, Sodium metabisulfite 6%, 2 min, 20°C, continous agitation. 8 – Washing, runing water, 2 minutes. 9 – Hardening stop bath : Adox EcoStop 1+29 + 40ml/L of Tetenal Hardener. 6 min, 20°C, continuous agitation. 10 – Washing, runing water, 2 minutes. RE-EXPOSURE : 2x1min 80W 1m in a white tank filled with water. 11 – 2nd Developer : Ilford Multigrad 1+9, 4min (stand), 25°C. The same solution I used as 1st developer. And that's where the emulsion dissolved.... Usually, after that, I use an hardening fixer for 5 minute, washing 10 min on runing water, rinse with distilled water, let it dry and digitalise with a Retroscann Universal. It's fastidious, but cheap ! Side notes : - Processing in Lomo Tank. - I know Ilford says not to use Ilford Multigrade for processing film (Universal PQ is recommanded instead), but through my test phase it was the only thing I had on hand, so I tried and it worked as you could see on vimeo. - I've never found any information about the shelf lif of the Tetenal hardener. As it is supposed to be mixed with Stop or Fix, I mixed it with the Adox Eco Stop to be sure I won't use an hardening bath tha is no longer working. Anyway, I mixed a new solution and it was still a disaster. - I use the hardener to compensate the softening of the emusion by the bleach. One bath before to strenghten, one bath after to reinforce. I thing the bleach isnt to blame, otherwise it the continous agitation in the clearing bath would have the same mechanical effect, so I guess it is a chemistery issue. The film is perfectly fine during re-exposure, bleaching is complete, after touching the film, the emulsion is normal. - I dont know why the developper is dissolving the emulsion on second use but work perfectly fine on the first one. So that's it, if anyone have an idea, i'm all ears ! Thanks ! Jérémy
For Sale: Brand New Discontinued 16mm Ilford B&W HP5 Plus Negative Motion Picture Film. ISO 400/27. 100 Ft. Daylight Spool, Double Perf, Short Pitch US$40/Roll + Shipping Your chance to get one of the rarest motion picture film on the market today. As you know, Ilford has long been one of the most reputable producers of B&W film until now. I have 50 rolls of this. I bought them at the Film Emporium in NYC around 1998-1999. The film was expired in 11/2001. All the 50 rolls have been stored in refrigerators all the time until now. Ilford B&W HP5 Plus negative motion picture film is a panchromatic black and white film. It is ideal for general purpose studio and outdoor motion picture photography under most lighting conditions. ILFORD FP4 Plus TYPE 664 Motion Picture Film 16mm 400ft was sold on ebay for US $760.00 + US$108.05 shipping fee in the USA in 2017 https://www.ebay.com/itm/ILFORD-FP4-Plus-TYPE-664-Motion-Picture-Film-16mm-400ft-In-Freezer-Since-1998-/123217374968?nma=true&si=oa693%E2%80%A6 Here are some reviews of the HP5 & HP5 Plus Photography film: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/features/why-i-switched-kodak-ilford-black-and-white-negative-films https://www.photo.net/discuss/threads/kodak-vs-ilford-film-characteristics.202538/ https://www.casualphotophile.com/2016/11/18/ilford-hp5-plus-black-and-white-film-profile/ You can buy just 1 or any number of rolls you want. No returns or exchanges accepted. No guarantee how the film will turn out. Shipping from Thailand. Shipping Fees PER ROLL to the USA • Will usually ship within 2 business days of receiving cleared payment. • 3-5 business days shipping time: US$31. • 7-21 business days shipping time with tracking but without insurance: US$18. • Please send me a message for shipping fees to other countries and/or for other number or rolls and for the film's fact sheet & further info. The more you buy, the less shipping fee per roll you'll pay. • Customs & Import Duties and Taxes (if any) are to be paid by Buyers. • Preferred Payment Method: Western Union. Other payment methods may incur bank & other fees.
Hi friends, I just wanted to put this here for the record, for anyone looking to reversal process Fomapan R100. I'm very happy with the results I'm getting, full ISO with good shadow detail, and nice crisp highlights. I basically follow this guy's process to the letter: (make sure you've got subtitles switched on) I even went out and found those 1.5 liter bottles that he uses (not cheap). My one alteration is to use Ilford's PQ Universal developer instead of Dokumol. It is more readily available here in the US, and relatively inexpensive. I also already use it for other photographic processes, so it just means one less thing I have to buy an keep on hand. Note that using distilled water really helps make these solutions last a long time. My solutions are: Developer 1: 200ml PQ Universal + 1300ml distilled water Bleach: 1200ml distilled water + 70ml 50% Sulfuric Acid + 15g potassium dichromate + water to make 1500ml Clearing Bath: 140g Sodium Sulphite + distilled water to make 1500ml Developer 2: 200ml PQ Universal + 1300ml distilled water Fixer: Ilford Rapid Fix My timings are (all at 68 degrees F) Pre-wash 1 minute Dev 1 8 minutes Rinse 30 seconds Bleach 5 minutes Rinse 1 minute Clearing 3 minutes Rinse 30 seconds Re-Exposure 1 minute Dev 2 8 minutes Rinse 1 minute Fix 3 minutes Wash 3 minutes Hypo clear 1 minute Final wash 3 minutes.
Hi everyone, I am preparing a feature film and we want to shoot black and white. Do you know guy which stocks are available in B&W except the ones made by Kodak? I'm looking for a sharp and not very grainy stock. I asked Ilford what they could do and they can offer FP4 and Pan F in 30.5m only (about 90 feet). I'm not a great fan of B&W shot in color, I generally didn't like things I've seen and tested made that way and never found the texture of true black and white. I also have to ask to Rollei/Agfa what they can do. In photography I use the Rollei retro 80s a lot and it's pretty close to the look I want. I guess something close to T-Max or Ilford Delta 100 would be a good start for tests too. Do you guys have any idea where I could search (preferably in Europe)? Anyone has experience with Adox? Thanks a lot, Anthony