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Found 15 results

  1. Hi Guys, I own a Krasnogorsk K-3, I purely use it for fun, not professionally. I've put about three rolls through it at this stage, and although I'm happy with the quality of the footage, I notice a large dust build up on all the the footage, as well as some continuous straight scratching on the right side of the film. Have been quoted £400 to have the camera professionally cleaned and serviced, but it's not worth that so I'm not really willing to fork out that much just for a camera that I use for fun. Was wondering if anyone here has experience of cleaning this camera themselves? And if they could give any advice to potentially fixing this at home? I gave the camera a good blow with compressed air, and a little brush the last time I put a roll through it, but still got the recurring issues. Any other help would be massively appreciated! I have attached some images for reference. Best, Jack
  2. I am having trouble focusing my K3. I've just got some footage back, almost all of it is, at least very soft, a lot of it is clearly out of focus. This is the first batch I have filmed since the camera was converted to S16. The conversion used a re-centered lens mount. The previous footage filmed was much better (not 100% sharp but acceptable). I have used 3 lenses, all with the same problem, Meteor 16-79, Belomo (Peleng) 8mm, and a Sun Actinon 80-200mm. The image in the viewfinder doesn't seem to come into focus as it should. The zoom lenses are quite poor, especially at the extremes, but do seem better in the middle focal lengths. Could this be an issue with the new lens mounting ring being too thick or thin, causing the focusing plane to have shifted? Any other thoughts / experience? Thanks Glen
  3. I've had a lot of fun with this camera, but would like to upgrade to a Bolex after discussion on this forum. Up on ebay at the moment: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273566611007 For examples of footage from this camera see http://www.vimeo.com/16mmlondon (Not all clips are from this camera, but are clearly described if they are) PM me if interested as I will giver preference to people on this forum. Cheers Glen
  4. Glen Brownson

    Next step?

    I currently have a Krasnogorsk K3 (converted to S16) and a Canon Scoopic 16M. I've used both several times over the last couple of years and have learned a lot with them. I've managed to get some good results, however, although there are things about both that I like, they each have things about them that I dislike. K3 + Rugged, cheap, large choice of M42 lenses available, Super 16, stable speed control, compact, reflex - Wind up, tricky to load, light leaks, Standard Meteor lens 'soft' (i.e slightly out of focus) at widest settings, unstable registration, reliability issues 16M + Easy to load and use, electric, affordable (but not cheap), reliable, good registration, reflex (but dim in low light), good macro, not too bulky, - Fixed lens - soft at widest setting, speed noticeably unstable (probably fault with my camera), dim reflex at higher f stop The common problem with getting sharp images with wide angle views is the biggest problem I have with these. So, I'm still looking for my 'perfect' camera. I'd like a hand held, reflex, electric camera with changeable lenses. Hopefully easy/quick to load. Super 16 preferred, but not essential. I'm also on a limited budget, maximum £1500 I guess. Two possibilities I can think of are: Beaulieu R16 and Bolex EBM (£££?) I nearly got a R16 with an (Angineux?) motorised lens, but I was put off the motorised lens due to reliability and dislike of controlling lenses with motors rather than manually. I don't know much about either of those, would they be better choices or do they have their own issues that cause user's problems? Have I missed other possible options that may be suitable? Thanks for any help you can give.
  5. Hello, I would like to hear some advice, tips.. About 16mm film Vision 3 and it's grain. I recently shot a roll of 100 feet of Vision 3 250D and it turned out great for a Krasnogorsk K3 that I bought for $70 on ebay. I noticed grain specially in the shadows even when I was exposing for middle gray or 18% gray and I had enough light. Nothing wrong with grain. I understand is part of the texture of film and I like it. What I don't like is that after color grading the video (2k, ProRes 444) The grain was moving a lot and it was more like RGB grain than the organic look of film grain. Here is the story: I got to the place where I shot this when the sun was setting. I prepared for shooting and by that time the sun was behind a mountain and I didn't have any specular light. But being Vision 3 250D I was still getting good numbers in the meter. (Sekonic 558). ASA: 250 Frame Speed: 24 Shutter Angle: 150 Apertures: f11 at the beginning, f8 15minutes later, f5.6, etc. I mean there was enough light to expose the film properly. The meter was not suggesting apertures like f1.4 or f1, but I still can notice this grainy areas. Is this normal? Was it because of the time of the day or light conditions? What would you do in that situation? Over expose and then pull in processing? Is it a post production problem? Also do you sharp the image when downscaling from 2k to 1080? I know it's supposed to be almost the same but the image was much larger than the 1080 frame. I can live with that, but I would like to learn more and hopefully get even better results when shooting film. It was my first time with 16mm by the way. Thanks you guys for sharing info and advice. You Tube: http://youtu.be/SKxsLj_p1Jk Dropbox: https://www.dropbox.com/s/cs9ipoxxervacqp/K3%20Wide.mp4?dl=0 You Tube softens the image to a point where grain is almost imperceptible so I'm including a file that you can download if you wanna take a look closer.
  6. Hello, I bought a Krasnogorsk 3 off of Ebay and it shipped over from Ukraine this Monday. I have a shoot this Saturday so I know it is a bit of a rush but it arrived early enough for me to test the exposed film and I found out that there is a continuous scratch along the non-emulsion side of single perf super 16mm film... I thought since this is a regular 16mm camera, maybe the scratch is where the other claw is trying to pull down? It is not in the middle but rather the edge. But I know K3 takes both double perf and single perf and this scratch is very concerning, not really sure where it is picking up the scratches from. When it is going through the upper loop through the roller I see a single scratch and when it comes out from the lower loop and out into the take up spool, I see another scratch. (2 lines as indicated on the picture) So I am assuming it is from the main sprocket or release pin... Please let me know if I got a crappy one and if or if not this is fixable to start anywhere, because I am sure it is not a dust since it is consistent line all along the film. Thank you so much
  7. Hello everyone, I would love to hear your opinions on the following.... I'm waiting for a Russian K3 16mm camera to arrive which I bought recently and ordered some Kodak 16mm stock for it.... .....in the meantime (as one does in this day and age) I've been thinking about 'upgrading' to an Arriflex SR +....then I started thinking....why? which is where you all come in I hope to offer advice, knowledge.... An aside.....I used to shoot stills with a Hasselblad 503CW back in the day and now I have a standard 500CM but using the same excellent Hasselblad zeiss lenses = same quality of images.....the lenses give me the quality NOT the model of the Hasselblad I am using....thats a fact with me..... So i was thinking of how this relates to the K3 or Arriflex SR (whatever) scenario.... If the K3 gives me the 24fps without variation (it is a winding mechanism after all) using my beloved zeiss glass on it via the M42 mount..e.g. my superb 50mm aus jena f1.8.....or even using a Hasselblad V mount to M42 adapter (also in the post).....surely I will get the same results as using the same glass on an Arriflex.... my question really is, as long as the film is moved in front of the gate properly and at the correct speed does it matter what camera body I use (variable) given the quality of the lens???? or even simpler....would I get the same quality of image if I use the same lens on a K3 and an Arriflex SR3? There is a lot of garbage shot on 16mm which probably degrades the 'image' of the medium, sure this has to do more with the fact people do not know how to shoot film as opposed to cheaper cameras....cos the film is the same quality as long as a great lens is in front of it but sensors on digital cameras...well, we all know how different those all are.... (obviously the above is assuming I don't want internal light metre, video monitoring, audio capabilities, timecode, and any other advanced features that have nothing to do with image quality) Thank you for your time I look forward to replies....
  8. Hi community, I have two questions related to poor-man's macro solutions. I am about to purchase a Krasnogorsk K3 and look for ways to shoot in macro with it. One idea was to just put a diopter - these close-up rings - in front of the lens. I know it's a super cheap solution, but that's how I roll. Does anybody have any experiences in that regard? At a later stage I'd buy a macro lens for it. I know it has a Pentax mount, so am I assuming correctly that I can just use any fitting macro lens with that mount then? Thanks for helping me out! Manuel
  9. So I wrapped production on a guerrilla short, but a couple of mishaps occurred during the process. The first one was when the Krasnogorsk-3 took a fall. It didn't descend super fast, but enough to damage the cosmetics a tad. Checked everything. Thought the film advancing sounded off. Then it got really off. Opened it up briefly (in somewhat subdued light) and inside it was a mess (film all over the place). I covered myself with a coat and examined the innards, and indeed something went wrong. The take up spool wasn't taking anything up. Thankfully there wasn't much film left, but I wound the rest into the take up by hand. Then I loaded the next roll. The next 100' went smoothly until the same problem (take up spool not taking) recurred to a lesser degree. Again near the end. As far as exposing it, I was in a controllable lighting situation, but I'm guessing the film may be scratched up a bit there, which might actually look cool. I was shooting handheld at this point, and I did move the camera a bit. I'm wondering if that has to do with it? Or perhaps I have permanently damaged the camera? Appreciate any expert hypotheses, thoughts, and comments. I can post a video(s) if needed.
  10. Could it work without harming the camera? Let's say I'm shooting at 24 fps and then have someone carefully dial the speed to 48 fps?
  11. TimWu

    K3 in 50 hertz

    hi.. i'm considering use of a K3 on a film which will be shooting under 50 hertz street lamps (shanghai). from what i gather, i can dial the K3's framerate to 25fps by calibrating with a TV / CRT monitor. however, i've read that -because it's windup - the K3's framerate will drop slightly as it runs? will the framerate change significantly enough to cause flickering problems under street lamps? (has anyone run into street lamp flickering problems due to framerate variance with the K3 before in either 50 hertz or 60 hertz land?) thanks very much! note: i think the shutter angle is fixed, so i'm not looking at that as a solution. and i dont have a K3 to test, i would have to buy it and have a friend bring it here to china. or, if anyone knows where i can rent a s16 camera in china/hk please let me know!
  12. hello all, I'm planning on purchasing a k3 tomorrow and was curious about mounting Leica M lenses on it via a Leica M - M42 adaptor, since I already own an M mount lens for another camera. I know M lenses generally don't work on systems with a mirror because they're built for rangefinders, but I've found an adaptor online that claims focus-to-infinity as a feature (without a lens element in the adapter). http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leica-M-mount-Lens-To-M42-Camera-Adapter-Ring-/320834255081?_trksid=p2054897.l4275 I'm skeptical but frankly don't know enough about lens adapting to go through with the purchase without further research. Has anyone tried to mount an M lens of a K-3? Thanks for the help!
  13. Hey Everyone, Here's a long form commercial I shot on Super 16mm on the Krasnogorsk K3. I'm really happy with the way it turned it out. I showed it to non industry people and someone asked me how I got it to look the way it does and my I told them, "It looks like that because it was shot on film". I feel like it wouldn't be the way it is if I shot it on any other format. I would definitely appreciate any comments or criticisms! Thanks, Mike https://vimeo.com/74120596
  14. I just bought krasnogorsk-3 and while i'm waiting for it to arrive i started to search for some data about it. To be quick here are the two main questions that i can't find any reliable answer to: 1. When did the production of k3 start and when did it end (- i guess with the collaps of ussr)? 2. Are there any movies that were shot with k3 (- i'll have to wait for a week or two until it arrives from Russia to Croatia, so i would like to watch some movie filmed with k3)? Sorry if there's already a post that answers this questions, i went through a lot of posts about k3 but i couldn't find anything.
  15. Can one put a matte box on: a K3, Kinor 16mm and/or Scoopic MS? Do I need to know a particular thread size. Forgive me if this is a dumb question Also can one load short ends that are under 400ft into a 400ft magazine, so say for example a 290ft short end into a 400ft magazine?
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