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  1. Hello guys and gals, So, yesterday, while processing some Tri-X Super 8, something nightmareish happened during the second developpement after re-exposure : after 1 min in the 2nd developer (where the emulsion properly reacted and darkened), it slightly started to lift from the plastic and then it litteraly disloved into the developper : no floating gelatin flakes, just a plain black developer... The weird thing is that I already processed Tri-X this way, here is an example : https://vimeo.com/326184819 Here is my protocole, I have included as much info as I can : 1 – Soaking in a 25°C water bath. 2 – 1st Developer : Ilford Multigrad 1+9, 20min (continuous agitation on 1st minute, then 10sec each minute), 25°C. 3 – Hardening stop bath : Adox EcoStop 1+29 + 40ml/L of Tetenal Hardener. 6 min, 20°C, continuous agitation. (https://www.fotoimpex.com/chemistry/tetenal-hardener-to-be-added-to-the-fixer-or-stop-bath-1000-ml.html?cache=1564733928) 4 – Washing, runing water, 2 minutes. 5 – Bleach : Potassium permanganate 0,4% + Sulfuric Acid 10% equal part, 6 min, 20°C, continuous agitation. 6 – Washing, runing water, 2 minutes. 7 – Clearing bath, Sodium metabisulfite 6%, 2 min, 20°C, continous agitation. 8 – Washing, runing water, 2 minutes. 9 – Hardening stop bath : Adox EcoStop 1+29 + 40ml/L of Tetenal Hardener. 6 min, 20°C, continuous agitation. 10 – Washing, runing water, 2 minutes. RE-EXPOSURE : 2x1min 80W 1m in a white tank filled with water. 11 – 2nd Developer : Ilford Multigrad 1+9, 4min (stand), 25°C. The same solution I used as 1st developer. And that's where the emulsion dissolved.... Usually, after that, I use an hardening fixer for 5 minute, washing 10 min on runing water, rinse with distilled water, let it dry and digitalise with a Retroscann Universal. It's fastidious, but cheap ! Side notes : - Processing in Lomo Tank. - I know Ilford says not to use Ilford Multigrade for processing film (Universal PQ is recommanded instead), but through my test phase it was the only thing I had on hand, so I tried and it worked as you could see on vimeo. - I've never found any information about the shelf lif of the Tetenal hardener. As it is supposed to be mixed with Stop or Fix, I mixed it with the Adox Eco Stop to be sure I won't use an hardening bath tha is no longer working. Anyway, I mixed a new solution and it was still a disaster. - I use the hardener to compensate the softening of the emusion by the bleach. One bath before to strenghten, one bath after to reinforce. I thing the bleach isnt to blame, otherwise it the continous agitation in the clearing bath would have the same mechanical effect, so I guess it is a chemistery issue. The film is perfectly fine during re-exposure, bleaching is complete, after touching the film, the emulsion is normal. - I dont know why the developper is dissolving the emulsion on second use but work perfectly fine on the first one. So that's it, if anyone have an idea, i'm all ears ! Thanks ! Jérémy
  2. Hello folks, I'm new on cinematography.com, i'm getting into super-8 as a member of an analog associative Photo/Cinema called ZebraLab based in Geneva : https://zebralab.info/. I am also a photographer by job. With the guys from the lab, we are/have built two machines to cut reels of Fomapan R100 DS8x30,5M to 4x S8x15M to be loaded in Lomo Reloadable Cartridge. That make it really affordable as we buy from Foma factory shop, we are around 7€ for the film and around 3€/film for processing (detail below). According to Super8Wiki, Lomo Reloadable Cartridge acts as 64T/40D -> http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Super_8_Cartridge_Notch_Ruler (down of the page). We would like to turn them into ASA 100, but we don't know wich notch ruler we should trust : - The one from Super8Wiki : super8wiki.com/images/6/6f/Cartridgenotchruler.pdf - Or that one who says the Super8Wiki notch ruler is not that good : http://www.peaceman.de/schmalfilm/super8/S8_Notch_Tools_v1.0.pdf We asume that : as the Fomapan R100 is black and white and that the contrast change induced by the CCA filter is not that big of a deal for us whe should turn the ASA 40D to an ASA 100T, thus cuting a filter notch down on the cartridge and enlarging the upper notch, correct ? Also, as several of us own (and ZebraLab also) a Canon 814 XL-S in working condition, we would like to give a shot at turning one of the cartridge to ASA 400, as the film stock can be pushed 2 stop during processing : we are processing black and white reversal with a mix of two method : Potassium Permanganate + Sulfuric Acid bleach and using a photopaper developper, as the emultion if soften by the bleach, we do hardening bath before to the bleach and one hardening fix bath after second developpement. The hardening concentrate is the Tetenal one (Aluminium Sulfite + Acetic Acid but that need confirmation). You can watch the result here on a Kodak Tri-X 200. (i found the result to be a bit too much contrasted...) But, according to the Super8Wiki notch ruler we are not sure that the Canon 814 XL-S can read ASA 400, even if it say so on different website (that would mean not a notch is pushed by the cartridge, 6 notches without the filter notch, and we tried cuting into an old K40 to make it ac as a ASA 400T but it doesn't seem to make a difference for the exposure sensor, that same camera read and exposed correctly the Kodak Tri-X 200 that you can watch on vimeo...). So : is it possible to turn a cartridge to ASA 400T (or around like a 500T), and would a Canon 814XL-S be able to read it, it can read Vision3 500T, so i guess yes, but how ? That's it for the moment, if you have solutions and/or questions, i'm up for it ! Bye, Jeremy
  3. I just bought a Canon 814 XL-S and noticed that even when I change the filming speed, from 9 to 16 to 24, it the motor sounds the same for all settings. I do not have film loaded. But when I press the SM button, the motor does crank much faster. Has anyone experienced anything like this? Am I on an incorrect setting? Would appreciate any advice anyone has for me. Thank you in advance.
  4. I'm on the cusp of buying the kit I need to convert a Super 8 projector for scanning. I will either cannibalise my nice old Bolex (slightly reluctantly) or buy a cheap ELMO, or something similar. But assuming that the requirements for the motor will be similar across projectors, I wonder what torque I might need? And I can use a 200 step motor or would I need the more expensive 400 step motor for greater accuracy? Thanks for any advice.
  5. I recently purchased a Nizo 481 Super 8 camera and the motor runs fine, but the needle that indicates exposure does not appear. The batteries for the camera itself and the light meter are both new. I did run a battery test by moving the master switch from the black '0' forward to the black dot, and the needle will only appear then. I'm probably doing something basic wrong, but would really appreciate any guidance. Thank you!
  6. Hello everyone, I've managed to lose my 1014 XL-S battery cover, meaning I can't use the camera. First question, is does anyone have a junk 1014 XL-S I can buy to use for parts? Second question is does anyone know whether the battery covers for any other models are interchangeable? Eg the 814 or 514 XL S? I know the 1014 standard isn't a fit (I think). Thanks for any help! D
  7. Hey all. Just got my new roll of E-6 Ekta back and I am really happy with it. It looks pretty great on the projector, but of course, it looks a little bit less great on the scan. I did some color work on Adobe Premiere Pro and was wondering what the best export settings would be. In the future, I'd like to share the footage on some social media, but I fear the quaint grain of Super 8 will become gross and bitty once compressed on these platforms. What are the best settings to prevent that from happening? Right now, I'm working with a 1080p scan, at 50 CBR and Rendering at the Maximum Depth, and a frame rate of 15fps. Thanks so much.
  8. Hello everyone, If this has been covered in a previous post please link, I was unable to find much on a few cursory searches. I am requesting advice or suggestions for a good lab who I can send Super 8 cartridges to for processing, telecine, and most importantly good quality post and colour grading. I am based in the UK (London). Normally I rely on someone local who hand-process the film and does all the post for me. I have always been very happy with his work, but I'm interested to see what kind of results I can get from a 'lab'. I am aware of Andec in Berlin ( andecfilm.de ) and the S8 Reversal Lab in the Netherlands ( super8.nl ). Though I have no experience with their service or even if they provide a Grading/Post service. Anyway, I am requesting suggestions, based on experience, of good labs. I'm happy to ship internationally NY, LA etc. for good results. Ideally it would stay EU though. Keep in mind, I am not seeking cinematic quality, for me the decision to use Super8 has always been a point a shoot, in camera, portable film format, so I am not seeking perfection. My main concern is over levels of noise and uneven exposures which I feel might be remedied with a higher quality transfer and greater attention to detail in the grading process (never mind my lack of attention to these details during the filming). I sincerely appreciate your advice, suggestions and shared knowledge. All the best
  9. Hi: NEW KODAK EKTACHROME 7294 FULL TEST vs OLD EKTACHROME vs FUJIFILM VELVIA vs FUJIFILM PROVIA. THIS FILM IS NARRATED IN ENGLISH AND SPANISH ESTA PELÍCULA ESTÁ NARRADA EN ESPAÑOL E INGLÉS. The totally new Kodak Ektachrome 100D 7294 is the ideal motion film for nature cinematography, documentaries, musical clips, telecine transfers for 4K UHD television, film schools, direct film projection o film archive. Ektachrome 7294 is the first reversal colour film developed with 21st century technology: 1) superb latitude, of 3 stops, 2) fine grain, 3) natural colours , 4) accurate skin reproduction, 5) moderately enhanced colour saturation, 6) exceptional sharpness, 7) low fade colours, for archive. In “Ferrol 7294” you can watch the new Ektachrome 7294 in several situations: 1) shadows and highlights, 2) interior, opening at f 1.0, 3) confronted to Fujifilm Velvia 100, 4) confronted to Fujifilm Provia 100, 5) confronted to old Ektachrome 7285, 6) new Ektachrome sub expose half stop, 7) new Ektachrome over expose half stop, 8) new Ektachrome exposed at 200 ASA and push processing one stop, 9) new Ektachrome exposed at 400 ASA and pull processing two stops Link:
  10. Shared it in the Super 8 forum but figured such huge news warranted a post here as well! Kodak is reviving Ektachrome 100D!! http://www.kodak.com/US/en/corp/Press_center/Kodak_Brings_Back_a_Classic_with_EKTACHROME_Film/default.htm
  11. Here's a NOS projector lamp. It's a long shot, but maybe one of you just happens to have a projector with a burned out lamp. Ised in B&H consumer projectors like the QX80. Thanks!
  12. Hi all I am new here .... So thank you in advance for your help. I have a Beaulieu 5008 which works to close (even the batteries) but I would like to modify 2 or 3 things on it are screws and the optics has of the play at the level of the camera. I saw a repair manual existed and I wanted to know if someone who has it could give it to me. Thank you (Google translation ;-()
  13. Just did an awesome workshop in NYC with MONO NO AWARE where through the magic of cross processing, we got color reversal from 500T! There's a small amount of info online about it but essentially we shot 500T rolls on Super 8 cameras that only meter up to 160T and without the daylight filter engaged, shot the film. So basically exposing it about 1 2/3 stop over what it normally should be. Apparently this is necessary to get the right exposure for this unorthodox method. Then we developed the film in a LOMO tank with a Tetenal E6 kit and some adjusted times. Then once it was developed, we put the film in a tray with some fresh water and photoflow and using a sponge, gently scrubbed the film to remove the remjet backing. Then dried it and projected it! The film ends up with yellow highlights and blue shadows but it looks pretty solid! In actual projection, it looks better because your mind tends to disregard the bizarre colors especially given the yellow hue of most projectors bulbs anyways. So check it out! It's fun to know there is a way to get color reversal other than the Agfachrome 200D and hopefully the Film Ferrania whenever that materializes. Also that's yours truly at 9:05.
  14. Currently looking for a Super 8 camera with a very small form factor, the Chinon Pocket 8 should be the right one. It originally was possible to buy this camera with a set of additional lenses, including an anamorphic adapter, which is very intriguing to me. The camera was also sold under the names of "Revue", "Bauer" and "Porst". I've attached an image of the set, taken from Super8wiki. Thanks!
  15. Hopefully soon I'll be shooting some long exposure stuff on super 8 but I'm having problems figuring out exactly how to use the Leicina ST 1 electronic control unit. Any help? I have a manual but the wording on page 9 seems very confusing. Rotary knob dot facing dot (?) range 1 range 2, I'm surprised they couldn't make it clearer. So I'm not really looking for single frame operation, but long exposure operation, but again, the manual isn't very clear. Another basic question: when they say "interval", are they referring to the time between exposures? And "scene duration" is the actual exposure time? Will the "interval" time and "scene" time always be the same?
  16. Hey all, I recently purchased an Argus XL 755 camera and I was looking to see if anyone here has any information about the camera, or similar ones to it. It had battery corrosion which has been taken care of, but the battery test light doesn't work and the lens doesn't seem to focus (this could be due to me not knowing the operation of the camera). I also would like to see if there's any film that would be compatible with it. So if you could, please share any knowledge you have! Cheers
  17. Hello, I have recently bought a Kodak M24 instamatic camera online. A quick disclaimer - I know that they have been reported to have internal parts which have degraded and so upon use they break. I thought Id give filming on it a shot anyway, with the confidence that if it does break, itll still be a lovely item to own. My issue is, I havent been able to find out if its possible to work the modern Kodak super 8 film in the camera or not. Particularly, I was wondering if anyone knew if the type in the attached photograph would function in it? If not, I would be really grateful to anyone who could direct me towards any links to buy films that I could use in the camera. Thank you! Hannah
  18. 4008 for sale. A person from this website overhauled it and painted it. Included are the following: camera body 2 x external batteries with charger brand new never used internal battery Lens Spare camera body and miscellaneous parts case for every thing The camera works like a charm at al speeds. It is in great shape. It always has worked for me. I am selling because I have too many cameras and don't really use this one any more. 500 US, buyer pays shipping. contact me for more photos Tripod not included
  19. Hi everyone, For an art installation, I would really like to use the Eumig r2000 instaprojector. My question is...is there any possible way to loop the film? Even for 10 seconds. The longer the better, but I could do also with very short time. Thanks a lot
  20. Greetings all! I am ecstatic about beginning shooting on Super 8 film. I have been doing 35mm still photography for a little less than a year. I love analog. Super 8 seems like it is going to be a great format for me. I am acquiring a Nizo 148 xl, which has a fixed schneider-kreuznach variogon 8-48mm;1.8 lens. Technical projects I want to work on: Getting an anamorphic rig to work and processing negatives via C-41 protocols and processing reversal film (tri-x). I have already found a great thread about processing tri-x and color negatives should be easy enough. I have seen many threads about shooting anamorphic with Super 8 on this forum, which has been very helpful. Here's what I am worried about: getting the anamorphic lens adapted to the fixed zoom lens on my Nizo. I believe the filter thread diameter on the zoom lens is 49mm. Kowa anamorphics Seem to be good for these small lenses used on Super 8 cameras.I was thinking of getting a Kowa 16-A, which has an outer diameter of about 39mm. They seem to be afordable for me on ebay. The 16H is apparently better, although I am not sure why. I have also thought of getting an SLR Magic, which would need to be stepped down, as the outer diameter is 52mm. Any thoughts, suggestions? What are some recommendations for getting this kowa to work with my Nizo? Good ways to provide support for the lens once fixed to the camera? How should I be calculating aspect ratio and optimum focal lengths to set the zoom lens at? I have seen recomendations, but I'm not sure how these values were deduced. Thanks is advance! This is going to be fun
  21. Hi, I'm trying to find the developing times for colour reversal Wittner 200D but I can't. Do you guys know? Thanks
  22. Hi, Can anyone tell me if the Bauer A512 only actually starts the filming mechanism with a cartridge inside? I picked up one of these for quite cheap and it looks to be in decent shape, popped in 6 fresh AA batteries, set the top switch to indicate the power to show the green dot, pressed the trigger and...nothing happens. And if it is supposed to start up without a cartridge, any ideas as to what's causing the problem? The contacts of the battery compartment seem clean to me. Thx!
  23. Hello all, I am a student interested in filmmaking and i have an idea for a short that I would potentially like to shoot on super 8. I use a canon 514 xl which shoots at 18fps and gets scanned in at 24. I end up bringing it back to its original speed in premiere later on but i would like to record dialogue at the same time for a little 2 minute short. I was wondering if anyone has had experience with blimping this camera or recording dialogue with a similar super 8 setup as I would much rather use film than digital for this project. I appreciate any advice you guys can give me. Thank you Nick
  24. Hi everyone, First of all, my name is Zranfisco, and I’m new in this world. A few days ago I found my grandfather’s old super 8 camera (a Yashica super 825), and I have not idea of how to use it, what cartridge I have to buy and things like that. So I was looking for information in internet when I reached to your forum, and I think that I could find the help that I need, I want to be a regular super 8 user. For example, I have already found the Wein Cell’s battery that substitutes old mercury 1.3V batteries. I think that my most important question is: What cartridges I can use? The camera was with a Kodachrome 40D, but internet say’s that now is impossible to process it. Thank you PD: more information about the camera YASHICA SUPER-825 -marketed in 1969-70 -silent super 8 cartridge -lens: Yashinon Zoom f: 1.8 \ F: 12-30 mm -zooming ratio: 2.5x -focusing: fixed -zooming: manual -filter size: 43 mm -viewfinder: single-lens reflex with adjustable eyepiece -viewfinder information: f/stop meter -exposure: auto exposure control; TTL EE, CdS photocell -EE lock: yes -film speed: auto for 25/40 and 100/160 ASA (daylight/tungsten) -CCA filter: built-in 85A filter; with filter switch; automatic cancelation with dylight cartridge or with -----filter key -filming speed: 18 fps -shutter opening angle: <180 degrees -sound: no -remote control socket: no -cable release socket: no -movie light socket: kodak type -film counter: 1-15 m -handle: retractable, chamber for penlight batteries -battery check button: yes -film drive motor: DC micromotor -power source: 4 x AA batteries \ 1 x 1.3V button cell for light meter -weight: circa 1000 g -dimensions: 55 x 125 x 195 mm \ 55 x 230 x 195 mm -tripod socket: 1/4" -made in Japan by Cosina Source: http://www.filmkorn.org/super8data/database/cameras_list/cameras_yashica/cameras_yashica.htm
  25. I have never been able to find the answer as to why film gates have rounded corners. The question pops up when ever a 16mm gate is widened to super 16. But I generally cannot find the answer. the only possible reason I could think of is if its trivial to have right angles and speeds up the machining processes after milling, not to have to go in and clean up the corners. Any Ideas anyone?
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