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Found 7 results

  1. Hello folks, I'm new on cinematography.com, i'm getting into super-8 as a member of an analog associative Photo/Cinema called ZebraLab based in Geneva : https://zebralab.info/. I am also a photographer by job. With the guys from the lab, we are/have built two machines to cut reels of Fomapan R100 DS8x30,5M to 4x S8x15M to be loaded in Lomo Reloadable Cartridge. That make it really affordable as we buy from Foma factory shop, we are around 7€ for the film and around 3€/film for processing (detail below). According to Super8Wiki, Lomo Reloadable Cartridge acts as 64T/40D -> http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Super_8_Cartridge_Notch_Ruler (down of the page). We would like to turn them into ASA 100, but we don't know wich notch ruler we should trust : - The one from Super8Wiki : super8wiki.com/images/6/6f/Cartridgenotchruler.pdf - Or that one who says the Super8Wiki notch ruler is not that good : http://www.peaceman.de/schmalfilm/super8/S8_Notch_Tools_v1.0.pdf We asume that : as the Fomapan R100 is black and white and that the contrast change induced by the CCA filter is not that big of a deal for us whe should turn the ASA 40D to an ASA 100T, thus cuting a filter notch down on the cartridge and enlarging the upper notch, correct ? Also, as several of us own (and ZebraLab also) a Canon 814 XL-S in working condition, we would like to give a shot at turning one of the cartridge to ASA 400, as the film stock can be pushed 2 stop during processing : we are processing black and white reversal with a mix of two method : Potassium Permanganate + Sulfuric Acid bleach and using a photopaper developper, as the emultion if soften by the bleach, we do hardening bath before to the bleach and one hardening fix bath after second developpement. The hardening concentrate is the Tetenal one (Aluminium Sulfite + Acetic Acid but that need confirmation). You can watch the result here on a Kodak Tri-X 200. (i found the result to be a bit too much contrasted...) But, according to the Super8Wiki notch ruler we are not sure that the Canon 814 XL-S can read ASA 400, even if it say so on different website (that would mean not a notch is pushed by the cartridge, 6 notches without the filter notch, and we tried cuting into an old K40 to make it ac as a ASA 400T but it doesn't seem to make a difference for the exposure sensor, that same camera read and exposed correctly the Kodak Tri-X 200 that you can watch on vimeo...). So : is it possible to turn a cartridge to ASA 400T (or around like a 500T), and would a Canon 814XL-S be able to read it, it can read Vision3 500T, so i guess yes, but how ? That's it for the moment, if you have solutions and/or questions, i'm up for it ! Bye, Jeremy
  2. Hi everyone, First of all, my name is Zranfisco, and I’m new in this world. A few days ago I found my grandfather’s old super 8 camera (a Yashica super 825), and I have not idea of how to use it, what cartridge I have to buy and things like that. So I was looking for information in internet when I reached to your forum, and I think that I could find the help that I need, I want to be a regular super 8 user. For example, I have already found the Wein Cell’s battery that substitutes old mercury 1.3V batteries. I think that my most important question is: What cartridges I can use? The camera was with a Kodachrome 40D, but internet say’s that now is impossible to process it. Thank you PD: more information about the camera YASHICA SUPER-825 -marketed in 1969-70 -silent super 8 cartridge -lens: Yashinon Zoom f: 1.8 \ F: 12-30 mm -zooming ratio: 2.5x -focusing: fixed -zooming: manual -filter size: 43 mm -viewfinder: single-lens reflex with adjustable eyepiece -viewfinder information: f/stop meter -exposure: auto exposure control; TTL EE, CdS photocell -EE lock: yes -film speed: auto for 25/40 and 100/160 ASA (daylight/tungsten) -CCA filter: built-in 85A filter; with filter switch; automatic cancelation with dylight cartridge or with -----filter key -filming speed: 18 fps -shutter opening angle: <180 degrees -sound: no -remote control socket: no -cable release socket: no -movie light socket: kodak type -film counter: 1-15 m -handle: retractable, chamber for penlight batteries -battery check button: yes -film drive motor: DC micromotor -power source: 4 x AA batteries \ 1 x 1.3V button cell for light meter -weight: circa 1000 g -dimensions: 55 x 125 x 195 mm \ 55 x 230 x 195 mm -tripod socket: 1/4" -made in Japan by Cosina Source: http://www.filmkorn.org/super8data/database/cameras_list/cameras_yashica/cameras_yashica.htm
  3. Hey everyone! I've had my late grandfathers old super 8 camera and and projector sitting on my shelf for a few years now and I'm determined to make this summer the summer I actually get some use out of it. That being said I'm totally new to all of this and I'm hoping to pick some of your brains about old super 8 cameras What I have is a Bell and Howell autoload 308. By no means anything professional, but I'm hoping to breath some new life into it. I've put batteries in it and it seems to run just fine, however my biggest question is about the "electric eye" or automatic exposure feature this camera has. I put a new battery in that as well and it doesn't seem to be working. The original user manual says that if the battery is dead a red flag will be displayed in the viewfinder, which it does. But even after I changed the battery it still displays the overexposure flag and doesn't change at all. So my guess now is that because the film cartridge itself will tell the camera what the film speed is the automatic exposure won't work until I have film cartridge in there... So how does the cartridges work, and how do they tell the camera the film speed? I'd really like to make sure my camera is fully functional before I invest in the film and processing so if anyone has any tips for testing and trouble shooting old cameras I'd greatly appreciate the advice! Best, Ray
  4. Hello all, I just recently shot a roll of Kodak 35mm color film, 24 exposures 400 ISO, on a Canon AE-1. However, I brought the camera into a dark room to check and see if the film had been entirely used (for there have been times in the past when the film didn't catch onto the spindle) and I noticed that the film was completely severed from the cartridge. This is my first time to use this particular camera, so I'm wondering how could this happen? I thought I had rolled all the film back into the cartridge after taking all 24 exposures. Thanks, John
  5. Hello, everyone! I know there's probably a bunch of "I'm new" threads on here every so often, but I'd really appreciate it if I could get some help from the people who know this format way better than I do. I recently purchased a Canon Autozoom 518 as my first Super 8 camera. I admit that I might not have done as much research as I should have, because only now am I finding out that it only goes as high as 160 ASA. I don't think it will be a big deal to overexpose 200 ASA film by 1/3 of an f-stop, but then again, I don't really understand much about exposure and film speed. I'd be filming mostly in daylight, with some interior shots added here and there. As far as I understand it, Vision3 50D works best for natural light, while 200T is better suited to bright interior lighting (though it can also be shot in daylight with the camera's filter). I plan to scan all the footage I shoot. With this in mind, my questions are: 1. How much would the overexposure on 200 ASA films (Vision3, Wittnerchrome) affect the footage? 2. Would it be possible at all to shoot 500 ASA film on the camera? Should I get an ND filter if I choose to do so? 3. Would I be better off letting the camera set the exposure automatically or should I look into manual exposure? 4. Would I need to notch hack any of the cartridges? I plan on buying Kodak's 50D and 200T, in addition to Wittnerchrome 200D. In addition, I'm kind of lost when it comes to the camera's Tungsten and Daylight filters and what they do. 5. What film stock would give me the best results in my scenario? I'm looking for a fair amount of grain (though maybe not quite as much as the Wittnerchrome stock has) and vivid colors. I'm looking to stay away from a flat image as much as possible. 6. What processing and scanning service provide the best results? I was planning on having the reversal stock developed at Dwayne's Photo or Pro8mm, the color negatives processed at Cinelab and the scanning done at Gamma Ray Digital @ 2K, but if there are better options I'd love to know about them! 7. Is there any general advice I should know before shooting my first roll? Despite having read a lot about the format, I feel like you can never be too careful when trying out something new and unfamiliar. Thank you!
  6. Hi, I recently bought some bulk super 8 film from Wittner and a reloadable super-8 cartridge. And when practicing loading with dead film, I'm struggling to get the super-8 to run smoothly through my camera, as Wittner cartridges does not come with the copper ring used to keep the film in place. I think they have replaced the copper ring with a clear plastic larger ring (seen in the photo, inside the cartridge on the right) that is suposed to keep the film (on the receiving side of the cartridge) in place some how? Here is a photo of everything supplied with the cartridge: Please could someone give me some advice on how to load these cartridges? I have seen some information on this forum about DIY reloadable cartridges but not the Wittner cartridges. I hope this makes sense, Thanks in advance. -Harry
  7. Hi Folks, I am wondering what is the Super 8 cartridge pressure pad weight (in grams). Do you have any info regarding those rare figures? Also, may the polyester based new stocks cause problems in Super 8 cameras? Is any adjustment necessary for the pressure pad weight for thinner polyester film? Thank you very much for any info! Erkan
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