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Found 25 results

  1. Hello guys, I have a very stupid question, haha. I will have a interview shoot next week, and it will be my first time working with projector. So I have some question regarding working with projector, fist of all, would I be able to use projector as my KEY light? Second of all, what should I be aware of working with projector? (I am worry about the flicker) Third of all, I do not know if I could use projector as my FILL light and have my own lighting unit play as KEY light? Guys please share with me some of your experience working with projector!! Thank you so much for taking time read my stupid questions, really need some help!
  2. Can anyone please help me identify a two (round) pin (plus earth 'flange') connector on an RCA Holywood cine projector. The plug (though the plug contains copper pin sockets) has Nettle T80120 written on it. The plug is 120/240v and there is one socket on the projector (with copper pins) as well as earth 'blocks'. There is also a transformer with a plug (bakelite-falling apart) and I also need another plug (to standard three pin uk plug) to plug into the transformer to provide 240v. For images of the socket and the plug, please see: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XC-CEt4hgsNrMVI-tXjdva_kQ3HN9pnC/view?usp=sharing I'd be particularly interested if there is a modern (i.e. non bakelite) version available. Thank you Andy
  3. WTB Lens test projector. One that can accepts both PL and EF mounts. Please email pricing and details to sales@broadcastsolutions.com.
  4. The goal is to recreate the classic/cheesy effect of driving in a stationary car but projecting a moving background environment behind the car so it looks like he's driving. http://pics.imcdb.org/784/electionprojectionmercedes.jpg I'm going to shine a projector on a white cyc wall behind the car and do mainly frontal shots. Any reccomendations on specifically which projector I should rent for this? Model name? If not, approx. how many lumens should the projector be to match the brightness of the background in the photo above? I'm sure rear projection through some type of glass is what's normally used, but I dont believe we will have access to something like that at the white cyc studio. Also any tips?
  5. Hello, I have a commercial shoot coming up where our actor will be next to a projector pointing at charts and graphs. I have questions about shooting the projector. Here they are... Is their a specific type of projector that would be better to shoot? DLP? LCD LED? Should I get the brightest option? What would that be? If I'm exposing for the projector would that require more output from our production lights? We are in a high rise office building with an open floor plan and fluorescent overheads. We are limited to house power. We will mostly use Kinos and maybe small HMI's? What about color balance? Are the projectors daylight? and can I change them if need be? I am already dealing with the fluorescents and since It's a large space I doubt we will be able to swap out with balanced tubes. Finally, do I need to be concerned about flickering or rolling bars like with a computer monitor? Thanks in advance for your help! Michael
  6. there's a typo in the title i don't seem to be able to fix. "screws" not "screens." this is for a bell and howell 346a projector. it seems that lots of people have this problem for a few different bell and howell models, and it looks like kits including news spindles used to be sold. but now only the replacement screws are available anywhere that i can find. so these nylon screws are broken off in the spindle. if i can get them out i'm good. anyone have a trick for getting them out? thanks!
  7. Hey everyone, I was hoping I might find someone here who has experience with a Bell & Howell 2585 projector. A few months ago, I took my K-3 for a spin, shot a roll of film and had it printed. Long story short, I had a different Bell and Howell projector at the time that I put a lot of effort into fixing so that I could watch my test roll, but eventually discovered what was really wrong with it; a cracked worm gear. So some time passed and I still wasn't able to watch my film, which was very frustrating. Eventually I ordered a Bell and Howell 2585 projector off of Ebay that was I told was in working condition. My problem is, I just got done using it for the first time, and I think I've already messed something up... Fortunately, I finally got to watch my test roll which was pretty magical, but my continuing issues with projectors have just made me really frustrated with the whole experience. First, there seems to be an issue with the autoload function. I managed to get around this by doing it manually, and I'll likely take a video of this in a little bit to show what my concerns are here, but for now this is the less pressing issue. My real problem came after I watched my film for the first time. I noticed that it seemed to be playing back at a slower rate, maybe 18 fps. I ignored this for the time being, thinking maybe this is just a setting I missed on my projector. Then, after the film finished, I did something stupid. While the leader at the end was still playing through the projector, I turned the knob to the reverse setting. I quickly realized this was the wrong way to rewind the film because the projector made a bad sound and then slowly came to a halt, so I shut it off. I then put it back in forward position, let the film continue all the way through the projector to the take up reel, and then rewound the film the proper way, just one reel to the other. My problem is that when I try to play the film now, no clear image is projected, just strange smears of light on the screen. Did I mess up my second projector already when I tried to put it in reverse with the film still in the machine? Does anyone know if this is fixable? I appreciate any advice, as my 16mm film experience has turned out to be way more frustrating than I'd hoped.
  8. New member here. I have been given an old Hanimex Super 8 Zoom projector, but cannot understand how the film is actually supposed to be projected, the spools are not in the right place for the film to pass between the light and the lens... Please see the photos below... Also, if anyone spots anything else I've done wrong, please let me know! (I know the film is loose in most of the shots, I just put it there for show)
  9. This is a Very Nice Eumig Mark S 810D High Quality Sound Super 8 and Regular 8 Projector wich includes the Rear Projection Adapter. These projectors are getting harder and harder to find especially in this good condition. I'm selling them together for $275. Plus Shipping. The Projector is by itself is $225 and you can buy the Rear Projection Adapter by itself for $125 if you want it. Everything is in Excellent Condition. Both Super 8 and Regular 8 Gates and Sprocket Gear Sets are included. Working Bulb. This is one of the Best Super 8 Projectors made. If you're looking for a projector to convert to a do-it-yourself film transfer unit this would be a good choice. It has a solid all metal construction and is gear driven with a once per frame rotating shaft.
  10. Ok, I'm new to super 8, but I'm learning something new everyday. You guys have been a tremendous help. I do not own a projector, but I'm in the process of getting one. I currently own 2 cameras. I own the Nizo 561 Macro and a Kodak Brownie model 2. Both are in near mint condition. I have yet to use either camera. I foresee using the Nizo much more than the Kodak, though. Still, I've been looking into getting a projector that will play both super 8 and standard 8mm film. I want something small and inexpensive, but still good quality. A part of me, however, wants to get a projector that only plays super 8 film. I'be read that such projectors are much more reliable than the duo type. Well, I narrowed it down to 2 projectors, the Elmo FP-A and the Bolex 18-5L. Both are rather inexpensive and seem well-built. I like the built quality of the Bolex much more than that of the Elmo, though. The downside of it is that it only plays super 8 film and it does not have variable speed control. The Elmo, on the other hand, plays both types of films and has variable speed control. Assuming having the ability to play both types of films is not a big deal to me, my only issue with the Bolex will be the lack of variable speed. Everyone says I need a projector with variable speed if I plan to capture the image with a digital camera. My question is, do I really need to have a projector with variable speed? If I have the projector playing at 18 fps and I get the flicker problem when I try to capture the image with my digital camera, shouldn't I be able to correct the problem simply by adjusting the shutter speed of my digital camera? Your opinions will be of great help to me. Thanks.
  11. For sale is a CHRISTIE CP2000X DLP Cinema HD-2K Projector and Christie 7 KW Ballast. The machine is in good working condition and free of technical defects. We can also service your projector. Contact for more details, picture is reference only. Price $13,000.
  12. Hello all, I'm brand new here. This seems to be the premier place on the 'Net to ask for help from people in the know, so I'm coming to you guys with a problem to see if anyone can help :) The problem. All films I successfully project have a horizontal 'split screen' effect that makes it impossible to capture them digitally. (excuse the poor photo - hopefully it shows the problem well enough) The background. I have a bag of mostly Super-8 films inherited from both grandfathers, and am in the process of trying to digitise them. I'm trying to do it myself as a] I'd like to learn how to do it, and b] it's way too expensive to get someone else to. Seems like the best way to achive this is to project the films, then film the projections with a digital camera. I bought a projector from a local street market a while back to get started (Cinerex Dual 8, Model 707). As far as I can remember, the projector seemed to be working fine when I began using it, with a whole image being projected. After it chewed up parts of a film, I took the front off to remove the damaged film and reassembled it. The next time I tried projecting a film, I got this horizontal 'split screen' issue with the middle and top thirds of a frame being displayed in one part of the projected image and the bottom third of a frame being displayed in the top part of the image. Initially, I had not put a spring back correctly onto the upper auto film guide. Today, however, I put this back in the right place, but am still having the same problem with the image. Films are (mostly) correctly feeding through onto the take-up reel, but are not displaying correctly. I've tried several of them, all with the same effect. One more film has already been chewed up again today, and I don't want to risk losing any more. Likely options would be: Something internally wrong with the projector I've missed something in reassembling it Unfortunately, I know next to nothing about Super-8 projector expected operations or repair, so can't be sure if it's either of these or something else. Anyone here experienced this kind of thing before and fixed it, or have any ideas on what might be going wrong?? Thanks in advance!
  13. Hi, Can someone help please, I'm looking for parts for a Hanimex Cine Film Projector. Model is a Dual Matic IQ 1000 however any make or model would good to start with. Thank you
  14. For sale: Technicolor super 8 projector. This projector is compact in size and very simple to use. I have tested the projector and everything is working on this unit. It has very minor wear and engravings on the top of the projector and the side of the lens. The projector uses special cartridges allowing the projector to continuously loop the film (holds up to 4 mins. of film). Perfect for films you want to loop in a display set up, without having to rewind the film. I have 2 cartridges I will be including with the projector. Projector weighs about 12 lbs. (5.4 kg). Asking $35.00 US plus shipping
  15. Asking 55k Cinema Lens, 1.45-1.8:1 Anamorphic Lens 1.25x w/motorized mount Lamp 3kW, short arc Light output 12,000 cinema lumens Digital MicroMirror Device™ 3 x 1.2” dark metal type Advanced DLP Cinema™ signal processing: CineCanvas™ image management; CinePallette™ color management, CineBlack™ contrast management and CineLink™ security management Native resolution 2048 x 1080 Housing Hermetically sealed DMD™ and optical assembly Screen Width Screen width (screen gain 1:8) @ 14ftL: 17m - 55ft adjustable light output CLO software Mounting Standing or ceiling mounted Up to 7 degrees tilt via projection head Lamp 1.5k to 4.0k Xenon arc lamp sizes Compatible with standard and high performance lamp types Contrast ratio 2000:1 Digital Video Inputs 2 x SMPTE 292M inputs£ 2 x DVI input both selectable as single or as dual link Prime lenses M25 1.25 - 1.45:1 / M25 1.45 - 1.8:1 / M25 1.8 - 2.2:1 / M25 2.2 - 3.0:1 zoom and M25 3.0 - 4.3:1 Projector diagnostics Via touch screen Via D-Cine Communicator control software (theater edition delivered standard on every product) Via SNMP agent Power requirements 1 x 220V max. 17,000 BTU/hr (with 4kW lamp) Dimensions projector: 640(H) x 730(W) x 1186.1(D) mm / 24.2(H) x 28.7(W) x 46.7(D) inch powerbox: 295.3(H) x 329.5(W) x 473.7(D) mm / 14.6(H) x 13.0(W) x 18.6(D) inch Weight projector: approx. 125kg (275lb) powerbox: approx. 20kg (44lb) Options CLO - Constant Light Output control Anamorphic lens fitting for 1.25:1 scope lens Acsar 2 Alternative Content Input Processor ImagePRO HD SNMP agent (v3)
  16. FOR SALE Bollex S221 Sound Projector 16 mm OVERALL DIMENSIONS: Cover closed: 20 1/2" x 11" x 17"; Cover removed, with reels: 25 1/2" x 17" x 31" WEIGHT: Approximately 55 lbs. CONSTRUCTION: Cast aluminum; Two-tone grey finish; Carrying handle; Detachable cover lid with built-in 8" speaker; Illuminated controls. REEL CAPACITY: Accommodates up to 2000 ft reels. Top reel arm folds downward for storage. THREADING: Simple manual threading with pushbutton sprockets; Engraved diagrams illustrate the path for threading sound or silent film. POWER: 110 V, 50/60 Hz LAMP: 110 V 750 or 1000 Watt projection lamp; 4 V 0.75 amp optical sound lamp. Modern replacement: DDB 120V/750W or DFT 120V/1000W projection bulb; BFX 4V/3W optical sound bulb. LENS: Interchangeable lenses; Originally supplied with a Paillard-Bolex 50mm f/1.3 Hi-Fi lens. 35mm f/1.3 and 70mm f/1.6 lenses were also available. VARIABLE SPEED: 16 to 24 frames per second forward projection. Rapid motor rewind of threaded film. SOUND: Playback of optical or magnetic sound track; Records or erases magnetic track. Optical sound head: 50 to 7,000 Hz +/- 3 decibels. Magnetic sound head: 50 to 10,000 Hz +/- 3 decibels. 15 Watt, seven-tube amplifier; Separate controls for treble, bass and volume. OTHER FEATURES: Automatic frame counter; Two or three blade shutter switch; Built-in illuminated stroboscope for precise setting of 18 and 24fps; Height and level adjustments can be made on all four feet; A table lamp can be attached which switches off when the projector is running and relights again when stopped. SUPPLIED WITH: Bolex microphone, Bolex earphones, (1) 2000ft reel, (1) 50mm Hi-Fi projection lens and speaker cover . faithfully luis bb gindre argentina bebeonline@hotmail.com / or my facebook directly bebe gindre http://www.bolexcollector.com/projectors/s211.html Bolex Collector | Projectors | S-211 www.bolexcollector.com Full Manual Online / free PDF http://www.film-tech.com/warehouse/manuals/BolexS-221_s.pdf
  17. I'm shooting a person with images being projected on them by a Epson 8350 Digital Projector. I want to shoot at a high frames per second (120fps) or a high as I can get a way with... The problem is the viewfinder and monitors show an unwatchable bad amount of pulsing light flicker. Does any one have any advice on how to do slow motion with a projector light in the shot and on a subject to mitigate or preferably all together stop flicker/pulsing light look?
  18. Hi everyone, I am about to film a hitchcock style film this week which involves a rear projection in a studio. I am currently using a Panasonic PT-D3500E projector and the Arri D21 with a shutter angle of 180 degrees. I have noticed in tests that there is a severe flickering/phasing issue that I would like to fix. Does anyone know how to get around this, do I need to experiment with different shutter angles or perhaps a different projector, ours is a 1 chip DLP projector, I wonder if LCD or 3 chip DLP would help? Thank you James P.s. if you would like to see an example of what I am talking about, here is a link http://youtu.be/ZOadAk7mz3U
  19. Hey guys! Quick question (which i'm sure won't have any concrete answer).... I've edited together a short super-8 loop which i'll be projecting at an Art exhibition. The exhibition will be running from Wednesday till Saturday. So the projector will technically have to be running for at least, on average, 4 hours a day, non-stop. The projector itself is a Eumig Mark 502D. Does this sound possible? What sort of issues would one predict I might encounter? Bulb blowing? Film getting too hot and melting? I DIY telecined the loop - so I do have a digital back up which I could project if all fails. But it would be nice to have the real thing projecting. Thoughts?
  20. Hello there, I am a novice to the world of Super 8 film and have recently purchased two projectors. I have some questions relating to these projectors and hope someone out there might be interested in helping me out with a few things. Bell & Howell Autoload 461a Super 8 Projector While film appears to load and run through the projector as intended, the projected image is scattered and jittery to the point of not being able to make out what is being shown in the film. When the lever is switched to Still, the image is clear and clean and in focus. However, once switched back to Forward, the chaotic mess returns. Sears Easy-Load P222 and P223 Super 8 Projector The image shown is clean and in focus, but I’m confused about the way the reels are operating. The Reel Arm spins at a speed much faster than the projector processes the film, causing a big mess in little time. Also, the Rear Spindle doesn’t spin (is it supposed to?), so I’m having to manually wind the film after it’s moved through the projector. Any input or information on either of these projectors and the issues I’m having with them would be appreciated! Hello there, I am a novice to the world of Super 8 film and have recently purchased two projectors. I have some questions relating to these projectors and hope someone out there might be interested in helping me out with a few things. Bell & Howell Autoload 461a Super 8 Projector While film appears to load and run through the projector as intended, the projected image is scattered and jittery to the point of not being able to make out what is being shown in the film. When the lever is switched to Still, the image is clear and clean and in focus. However, once switched back to Forward, the chaotic mess returns. Sears Easy-Load P222 and P223 Super 8 Projector The image shown is clean and in focus, but I’m confused about the way the reels are operating. The Reel Arm spins at a speed much faster than the projector processes the film, causing a big mess in little time. Also, the Rear Spindle doesn’t spin (is it supposed to?), so I’m having to manually wind the film after it’s moved through the projector. Any input or information on either of these projectors and the issues I’m having with them would be appreciated!
  21. I am shooting in a studio with some soft HMI lighting, using only a 1.2K and a 2.5K, both with diffusion or bounced for a gently-lit daylight look. Shooting against a 35' white cyc, with the subject 15' away from the cyc. We want to light the cyc and subject separately with projected color fx images. Any idea on how much lumens we should be looking for in a projector?
  22. Never heard of that brand. Anybody knows about them? Are they any good? Thanks!
  23. Thought you guys might like this Super 8mm music video from Northern Ireland singer-songwriter Robyn G Shiels
  24. Hi, I am about to shoot a short movie with the Red Scarlet. Prior to that, we will shoot some 8mm footage. During one scene, a character is going to start a super 8mm projector and then go in front of it (in the projected image) and interact with the character from the super 8mm footage. I am aware of the "scanning line" problem due to the rolling shutter of the Scarlet. My solution was to film the super 8mm footage with a non-rolling shutter camera. (I believe it is the cheap alternative to a scan) And then cheat the projection with a digital projector, pretending it comes from the super 8mm projector. Do you think it would work? Would it look fake? My main goal though would be to be able to see the super 8mm projector rolling and its image in the same shot. I was wondering what would be my other options? Thanks for your advices, Marie
  25. I'm hoping to create a live projector performance piece, but it requires the removal of the projector's shutter. I have an Elmo 16CL, and there is no mention of the shutter mechanism in the manual I have. Replacing the 3-blade for a 5-blade shutter is common enough, to enable telecinies, but I have been unable to find instuctions on how to do so. Can anyone shed some light on this procedure for me? Thanks -Matt
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