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Found 17 results

  1. Hi friends, I just wanted to put this here for the record, for anyone looking to reversal process Fomapan R100. I'm very happy with the results I'm getting, full ISO with good shadow detail, and nice crisp highlights. I basically follow this guy's process to the letter: (make sure you've got subtitles switched on) I even went out and found those 1.5 liter bottles that he uses (not cheap). My one alteration is to use Ilford's PQ Universal developer instead of Dokumol. It is more readily available here in the US, and relatively inexpensive. I also already use it for other
  2. Hello everyone, I just hand-processed a roll of 16 mm in LOMO tank and the film is either all black or half-brownish, like on the picture. Visible frames are like underneath this brown strip. Is it possible that the tank leaks the light in? Wouldn't the film be clear in that case? Film is reversal FOMAPAN R, developed in FOMA kit. I am fairly new at this and probably asking something obvious? Thank you for any advice, Ivana
  3. Hello guys and gals, So, yesterday, while processing some Tri-X Super 8, something nightmareish happened during the second developpement after re-exposure : after 1 min in the 2nd developer (where the emulsion properly reacted and darkened), it slightly started to lift from the plastic and then it litteraly disloved into the developper : no floating gelatin flakes, just a plain black developer... The weird thing is that I already processed Tri-X this way, here is an example : https://vimeo.com/326184819 Here is my protocole, I have included as much info as I can : 1 – Soaking in
  4. Shared it in the Super 8 forum but figured such huge news warranted a post here as well! Kodak is reviving Ektachrome 100D!! http://www.kodak.com/US/en/corp/Press_center/Kodak_Brings_Back_a_Classic_with_EKTACHROME_Film/default.htm
  5. ...I've been shooting Tri-X since my student days in 1992. I love it's qualities and nothing quite compares to it. I'm beginning to wonder just how long Kodak will continue to produce this B&W reversal stock. Should I be bulk buying it or am I just a bit paranoid after 'losing' K40, 64T and 100D ???
  6. Hi all, Just a question: WeIl I still have three unopened 100ft rolls of 16mm Kodak Ektachrome 100D in my freezer. Love that film stock! Got it still at reasonable prices a few months back. One is © 2001 and two are © 2009. No exp. date. I'm planning on using one roll (the 2009 stock) for shooting our band during sound check on stage, run and gun style (outside, sunlight - very likely the weather will be clear skies). The film stock seems to have been stored properly. Still: my Q: should I compensate for film speed (sensitivity) loss? If it was neg, I'd simply rate the 2009 sto
  7. Hello, I will be shooting on a Super8 camera, specifically the Nizo 561 Macro, with Wittner Chrome 200D Reversal Color Film. There's a few things I'd like to know so that I can get the correct exposure for every shot. 1) The Nizo camera cannot read the 200D ISO for the Wittner film...What does it default to? What should be the compensation I make using Automatic Exposure? 2) Does the Nizo recognize that it's a Daylight stock and not a Tungsten stock? If not, should I make any adjustments when I'm shooting in Daylight? What if I'm shooting in Tungsten light, should I make any adj
  8. I develop new and expired reversal 8mm and 16mm films, black and white - ORWO (ORWO UP15, UP21, UP32), ADOX, FOMA, KODAK etc. Go to: http://www.8mm-16mm-film-developing.com/index.html I develop for Customers from all the world. I develop films exposed even 40 years ago. I happened to develop film exposed in 1965 with success! It is possible to obtain good image from such films. I specialize in the developing of such films - have decades of experience. I treat each film individually, depending on age and type of a film. I make the chemistry baths on my own, adapting to the age of th
  9. Hey everybody, On another thread awhile ago I saw somebody looking for advice on how to achieve that "Kodachrome look" when there aren't many reversal options left. There was a great suggestion to try making a print of the negative, and transferring THAT. Has anybody done this, and does anybody have any links to the results? 20 years ago in film school, I remember getting a 16mm work print transferred to VHS (!) and I remember it looked cool, but that was a long time ago and I don't still have it. I would love to see iif this is worth doing, or if it's too much hassle / exp
  10. So, I recently got a case of Kodak Black and White Reversal bleach Parts A and B to process some Kodak TRI-X 7266. I'm guessing this is the actual bleach, and Part C is the replenisher which I didn't get because I don't user replenishers for developers, fixers, clearing baths, etc. When I looked at the box instructions on how to prepare 20 gallons of bleach and replenisher, it said to first prepare 15 gallons of water, then add Parts, A, B, and two bottles of C then top it off to 20 gallons. Question: is Part C absolutely necessary? If not, then when preparing 20 gallons of bleach,
  11. Hi All, I currently want to shoot some 16mm Tri-X for an experimental film I'm making. I'm going to do bucket processing, but I want to bucket process as a negative. I keep reading in onine and in other forums here that if you shoot reversal film and want to process as a negative you need to overexpose a little bit when filming. Since I'm shooting this in daylight and the EI for daylight is 200, I was wondering what I should rate my film at. Should I overexpose by 1 stop or 2 stops etc. or would processing it for longer work also? Thanks for the help!
  12. Well, the market continues to shrink as a number of places that developed or transferred reversal have closed shop. In particular, places that offered inexpensive transfer/scans ($25 a roll or less) with no minimum have ceased to exist. As you may know I received my camera back from Willard Engineering after much wrangling and will have to do some tests. I shot one cartridge of Tri-X already and will shoot another this weekend. But these are test rolls. I just need to see if the camera is working properly. I do not have access to a projector so I will need them transferred. Any
  13. Hello, I have navigated through the forum to see if this question was answered before and I have not found anything, if somebody thinks that the question was already answered, please, let me know as I was not able to find any thread. So, I am preparing a project which is going to be shot on 35mm and I would like to cross process negative as reversal stock as it is something I have done before when shooting stills. I know usually people go the other way around and I know that it would be much easier. However, I want to achieve certain tones in the city I am going to shoot at
  14. I just received my film back from the lab. It's one of my remaining rolls of Ektachrome reversal 16mm film. Upon projecting it, i realized in horror that the majority of the footage- especially in the shadows- have a reddish orange tint. If the film was shot under tungsten lighting, I'd blame myself, but it was shot on a bright sunny day. I did not use any filters. The film looked consistently slightly underexposed, which may be my fault. I can't think of any other reason for the orange hue, other then that something went wrong during processing. Could it be anything else? X-rays may
  15. I am seeking some advice/input on the possibility of developing Super 8 Tri X film at home using the Caffenol C-H recipe. I am experienced in developing 35mm Tri-X Negative film (for still photos) using this recipe and have gotten results that I am happy with. I am looking to shoot some Tri-X Super 8 film which I know is reversal. Say I am only looking to get a negative, would my same process (wash, dev, stop, fix, rinse, wash, dry) for still 35mm Tri X work with Super 8? Will I get a useable negative? Could I stuff the film into my 20 oz developing tank that I use for my 35mm rolls? Or wo
  16. I just started getting into super-8 last year. I had an old Canon 514 XLS. Late last year, I started experimenting with Ektachrome 100D for outdoor use. As someone with no experience working with actual film, it seemed like the easiest, most affordable film stock to use for outdoor filming. I had to take a break for a bit, but now that I'm coming back, it seems like this stock has been discontinued. I've been trying to figure out what some other good film stocks would be. Does anyone have any suggestions or even a list of different super-8 film stocks? Since I don't know much about film st
  17. Hi Everyone, After buying a fridge full of Ektachrome last December, I now realise I've got too much for my needs, so I've put a few rolls on Ebay UK - item no 300895327438 All the rolls have been fridge stored, since purchase. Many Thanks.
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