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ASA setting for GYHD100U


Kim Camera

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Hi,

 

It's a video camera. While a light meter may be helpful when scouting locations or pre-rigging very big lights to give you an idea of coverage and depth-of-field, there's nothing better than just looking at the monitor, and through the viewfinder with zebra stripes on. A video camera is effectively a huge grid of spot meters.

 

Phil

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It depends how the camera is set up. On some recent tests I did shooting on HDV with the HD 100 the Standard gamma was around 200 ASA and Cine around 125 ASA. Both had manual knee setups (plus a few other changes from the factory set up) and I used my old G & D Cinematography chart in combination with the zebras (60 to 70%), so I wouldn't say it's as accurate has using a waveform monitor.

 

On one test report I read that the HD 100 is around a stop faster when shooting DV. I haven't tested this, but could be of interest to those wanting to use the camera mostly on MiniDV.

 

I wouldn't use the exposure meter to determine the final exposure, only to set the lights. For smaller stuff, as Phil says you don't need a meter, only for more complex lighting rigs is a meter useful. Even then I'd have a walk through with the camera to fine tune the f stop or adjust some lights.

 

Working by eye works extremely well.

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It depends how the camera is set up. On some recent tests I did shooting on HDV with the HD 100 the Standard gamma was around 200 ASA and Cine around 125 ASA. Both had manual knee setups (plus a few other changes from the factory set up) and I used my old G & D Cinematography chart in combination with the zebras (60 to 70%), so I wouldn't say it's as accurate has using a waveform monitor.

 

On one test report I read that the HD 100 is around a stop faster when shooting DV. I haven't tested this, but could be of interest to those wanting to use the camera mostly on MiniDV.

 

I wouldn't use the exposure meter to determine the final exposure, only to set the lights. For smaller stuff, as Phil says you don't need a meter, only for more complex lighting rigs is a meter useful. Even then I'd have a walk through with the camera to fine tune the f stop or adjust some lights.

 

Working by eye works extremely well.

Thanks Brian and Phil. I checked around and it looks like it's back to the waveform and. vectorscope monitors. As you both say, use your eyes.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Thanks Brian and Phil. I checked around and it looks like it's back to the waveform and. vectorscope monitors. As you both say, use your eyes.

 

I've been setting my meter to 320ASA as a guide which seems about right. A useful tool but I've been using the monitor to actually set the stop on the lens.

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