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Matthew Buick

Close focusing 16mm cameras

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I know many of you will have a go at me for this, but I plan to make Brickfilms.

There is a reason for this you know, it gives me a chance to have a go at lighting,

something I would just leave to nature in my live action films ( and it's fun ) .

So, are there any 16mm cameras that can stay in focus up to about 3cm from the

subject ( legoman )?

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You should really get some extension tubes or Macrobellows. I have a set of tubes and a macro bellows set for my K3 that cost about $50.00 on ebay. I use them with my 50mm prime lens and they work great!

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Thank you for the professional replies all, boy, I love it when people just supply an answer and don't take the mick.

 

Matthew Buick

 

Check out Brickfilms, where film is shunned and webcams are king, what morons, 16mm will blow them out of the water.

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16mm will blow them out of the water.

 

 

Be sure to get a camera with single frame capabilities. I think the Eclair NPR does the trick, but i'm not sure.

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About once a month you'll see an ad on eBay for someone selling Bolex C mount extension tube sets. They were made specifically for macro photography shots like you are describing. Bolex H and RX cameras also support single frame advance.

 

What is a brickfilm?

Edited by Robert Hughes

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Be sure to get a camera with single frame capabilities. I think the Eclair NPR does the trick, but i'm not sure.

Eclair NPR with standard motor doesn't single frame

 

A BolexRX would be a good option. Macro step-rings and tubes in c-mount for c-mount videocameras cost around 1 or 2$...

 

cheers, bernhard

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About once a month you'll see an ad on eBay for someone selling Bolex C mount extension tube sets. They were made specifically for macro photography shots like you are describing. Bolex H and RX cameras also support single frame advance.

 

What is a brickfilm?

 

The Bolex is great for animation.

 

However, it's a good idea to cover the camera with a lightproof bag if you're doing this sort of animation. We did some drawing in shot animation sequences and had some camera light leak fogging.

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I know many of you will have a go at me for this, but I plan to make Brickfilms.

There is a reason for this you know, it gives me a chance to have a go at lighting,

something I would just leave to nature in my live action films ( and it's fun ) .

So, are there any 16mm cameras that can stay in focus up to about 3cm from the

subject ( legoman )?

 

You need set prime lens with reversal position.

The front side of lens must be set with adapter on lens mount of camera.

or you can set tandem of lenses. You take prime lens and set on reversal position before prime lens of camera.

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Olex is saying you can turn around the lens for close macro work. Lenses usually capture images that are much farther away from the lens than the film gate is; when you shoot close macro, the subject is closer to the lens than the film gate is. In order for the lens to transmit reflected light to your film most effectively and with the least distortion, you take the lens off the camera, turn it around so that the lens mount faces away from the camera, and use a light tight extension tube to set the appropriate macro magnification.

 

Try it, it really works.

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In order for the lens to transmit reflected light to your film most effectively and with the least distortion, you take the lens off the camera, turn it around so that the lens mount faces away from the camera

 

so this gives better results than just adding step-rings to the lens in normal position?

 

What about the Kragnogorsk K-2, can that do single frame ?

 

yes Krasnogorsk-2 can do single frame, not sure what mount it has

 

Krasnogorsk-3 usually comes with m42-mount so you can get nice still-primes like the 50mm 1.4 SMC Super-Takumar...

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Krasnogorsk-3 usually comes with m42-mount so you can get nice still-primes like the 50mm 1.4 SMC Super-Takumar...

 

Actually that was a SMC-Takumar. SMC is short for Super Multi-Coated. do you don't need the extra super in there. BTW the older Super Takumars are good, just be careful ithat if you get one that has turned Yellow that you have a few days to get some sunshine to bleach it back.

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just be careful ithat if you get one that has turned Yellow that you have a few days to get some sunshine to bleach it back.

 

yes, this sun-cure works amazingly good, I really love this lens, I was happy to get it clear again...

 

 

but what about turning the lens around? does this really give better results in macro? what is the exact difference?

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yes, this sun-cure works amazingly good, I really love this lens, I was happy to get it clear again...

but what about turning the lens around? does this really give better results in macro? what is the exact difference?

 

Hi,

 

It allows you to focus very close to the object. Best to test it for yourself, will work with a stills camera too.

 

Stephen

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It allows you to focus very close to the object. Best to test it for yourself, will work with a stills camera too.

 

I just tried it with my SLR, indeed you can go very macro

 

 

but:

 

do I get better results adding some macrorings in normal position?

 

or gives the turn arround trick better results?

 

or is the result the same?

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I just tried it with my SLR, indeed you can go very macro

but:

 

do I get better results adding some macrorings in normal position?

 

or gives the turn arround trick better results?

 

or is the result the same?

 

Yes, you would get better results by having the the lens reversed, when shooting larger than 1:1. For best results though, use a macro lens, with extension rings if more magnification is necessary.

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The Canon Scoopic has a built-in macro (can't change the lens though) and it also shoots single frame. Last I saw they were on the cheaper side (under 2k, and probably even cheaper).

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true. i have a Canon Scoopic and i just did a test with it... using the macro setting on its extreme, i could focus a 3" high object to fill the entire viewfinder and a 2.5" object filled the "action area" rounded-corner guide markings inside the frame.

 

plus diopters are another approach, but they distort at the edges of the frame in a rather annoying manner. but they don't affect speed as much as tubes.

 

here's a pretty good rundown on approaches to macro and their advantages/disadvantages... i don't think anything at all is left out, including lens reversal, and there's succinct explanations for every method:

 

http://www.shutterbug.com/refreshercourse/lens_tips/172/

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