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higher contrasts without desaturation


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I wanne shoot a shortfilm with a higher contrast, but don't wanne desaturate the colors! ...so I don't really wanne use bleachbypass. It shuold look like hot summer, but not the hard top light with high contrast, blue colours and desatuaration kind of way, more a nice warm feeling (maybe rather Kodak then Fuji!?). I would like to have red, and orange and also skintones with a "normal" ore even a bit more satuaration. Many parts wii take place in indistrial ruins. And would like to have the brickbuildings quite "present". I thought of maybe some redenhancer or similiar filters, but I normaly don't use filters at all. Means, I don't know so much about the effects!

The contrast doesn't have to be amazingly high, but higher than normal prosess and a newer stock would give me (think older stocks woulnd be enough either).

Most of the shots are outside day, so I first thought of using the new 160 Fuji. But Fuji europe can't give it before July and I wanne shoot in 4 weeks.

I will shoot on 35 but with no digital intermediate. So everything must be done analog.

...Still wanne do testing of course.

Hope it wasn't too confuse, maybe anyone has an idea?!

 

Thax very much

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Find a way to shoot on Fuji Vivid 160T (the most saturated color negative stock), print on Kodak Premier 2393 (the most saturated print stock.) Rate the Fuji slower, like at 100 ASA.

 

Use the Color Enhancer filter to make reds more saturated (like in a brick wall). Time the image warmer overall if you want to, that's no big deal there. Polas can reduce glare and make greenery and skies more saturated. Just note that the Color Enhancer loses 1-stop and the Pola almost 2-stops, so that's almost 3-stops when used together.

 

In close-ups, you may have to pull the Color Enhancer if the skintones are going too plum-colored. Or spend the money to order a "half" Color Enhancer from Tiffen, which is half as thick (and therefore fragile) but has half the effect.

 

Pushing the Vivid 160T stock may help increase contrast & saturation, but don't underexpose much to compensate. For example, try rating it at 200 ASA and pushing it one stop.

 

Beyond that, you're talking about shooting color reversal like Kodak 5285 (100D), which is an expensive stock. Plus you'd have to ether cross-process it into a negative and get a lot of saturation and contrast, but off-colors and biased shadows, or process it normally into a positive (E6, which is also expensive) and then dupe it in an optical printer to color negative (also expensive).

 

Adam Frisch just shot a music video in the U.K. on Fuji Vivid 160T so it must be available somehow.

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first of all, thank you very much - again for a very detailed answer!

 

I'm studying in Lodz/Poland but i normaly work and study in Germany.

In both countries I asked the headquarter of Fuji ( I think Germany is even the european headquarter of FUIJFILM), but both say, they unfortunately can`t deliver that stock before the end of July.

Last month I got a sample from FUJI Poland and they, in that time, said, that its gonne be available now. ...BUT now somehow they're not even sure if it will be July!??

 

So that seams hopeless!

 

And I don't think I will shoot reversal.

 

So it must be another stock.

 

...and pushing 1 stop for the whole film won't bring up to much grain?

 

and maybe anhanzing till infinity and then bleachbypass? I don't know! ...But anyway the silver will stay on and cover the colors, no matter how strong they are. ore is that wrong?

 

I have to find a difenrent a different stock... :(

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If you want to shoot color negative film, push processing is also an easy way to increase contrast and maintain lots of color saturation. Fine-grained slower films won't get much grainier if push processed.

 

Yes, for 35mm release prints, consider Kodak VISION Premier Color Print film 2393 to get higher contrast and more saturation.

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..and pushing 1 stop for the whole film won't bring up to much grain?

 

and maybe anhanzing till infinity and then bleachbypass? I don't know! ...But anyway the silver will stay on and cover the colors, no matter how strong they are. ore is that wrong?

 

Don't bleach bypass if you want more color saturation.

 

Pushing a slower stock won't make it much grainier, especially if you don't underexpose it to compensate.

 

If you have to use the normal Kodak stocks, then use the normal Kodak stocks. The normal Fuji Eterna stocks are more pastel than the normal Vision-2 Kodak stocks.

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Might I suggest incorporating a polarizer into your shoot. It'll help to get more color information on your negative, therefore more to play with when grading in post.

 

People usually notice it more in the blues, but in my experience, it also really helps reds & skintones pop...especially if you're shooting early mornings/late afternoons.

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Fujifilm UK have had loads of 400' samples of Vivid since April. I would think by now they should be ramping up supplies. Especially since Dick Pope has been shooting the latest Mike Leigh film with this stock. I know that there has been some difficulty getting 16mm batches in yet, but 35mm should be fine. So call London.

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