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Hand crank 35mm "Man on fire" look


Glenn Hanns

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Hi,

Just did some shooting with an Arri 3 that had its motor removed and modified for hand cranking like the look in "man on fire". Unfortunately the gear ratio used made turning the handle fast enoungh to reach 25fps near impossible so I ended up using an electric drill attatched to the drive shaft and by altering the speeds forward and reverse I was able to get some amazing footage of our hero bashing up a victum who was tied to a chair. When I get the DI done ill get some QT clips to show.

Cheers G.

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Arri Media in London had a 3C fitted with a hand crank, I was told it saw a good bit of action. I'm not sure of the gearing ratio or set-up. As it was only a few years back I'd bet they still have it - both Andy Subratte or John Duclos are good chaps, it may be useful to have a chat with them for operating tips.

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Hi,

Just did some shooting with an Arri 3 that had its motor removed and modified for hand cranking like the look in "man on fire". Unfortunately the gear ratio used made turning the handle fast enoungh to reach 25fps near impossible so I ended up using an electric drill attatched to the drive shaft and by altering the speeds forward and reverse I was able to get some amazing footage of our hero bashing up a victum who was tied to a chair. When I get the DI done ill get some QT clips to show.

Cheers G.

 

Heres some stills from the shoot, ill get some footage soon after the 2K divinci grade. The drill is attached to a cog that has a rubber belt to the main mechanism that the motor was connected to.

Cheers G.

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Hi,

Heres a link to some footage I shot with the Arri 35-3 with the handcrank option. This was removed and a standard electric drill was attached and run at various speeds 0-70FPS to create this effect. Note: No grading or sound post done.

Cheers

 

http://web.mac.com/cinematographer_/iWeb/G.../Handcrank.html

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Hi,

Just did some shooting with an Arri 3 that had its motor removed and modified for hand cranking like the look in "man on fire". Unfortunately the gear ratio used made turning the handle fast enoungh to reach 25fps near impossible so

 

If you need hand crank 35 mm cine camera, i can recommend russian Konvas-1 ( KSR-1M ) camera.

 

 

 

Konvas-1 can have a few versions of drives, this can be electrical motor with rheostat speed control,

hand crank with speeds up to 32 fps, hand crank for single shooting and rare, clock spring motor.

 

The design of Konvas-1 included of mechanical devices for control of speed.

This is device use for control of speed with all type of drivers.

This is inertia brake and you can adjust of volume of speed, or, if you need, you can disconnect of speed control.

 

If you modify of cine camera on the hand crank version, you not need forget about mechanical speed stabilization system.

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Great look for the scene! was it all hand cranked? or spliced into the master shot?

 

Kieran.

 

All hand cranked, each shot/setup is straight from the camera no effects added.

Cheers

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The problem (in my opinion) with using a drill instead of actually cranking is that you don't get the exposure and speed shifts you get when hand cranking. Don't get me wrong, the stuff you shot looks very nice, but it doesn't have the classic hand crank look. I understand why you used the drill since I've done a bit of hand cranking myself. 24fps is quite hard to achieve with a hand crank without having a very sore arm.

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The problem (in my opinion) with using a drill instead of actually cranking is that you don't get the exposure and speed shifts you get when hand cranking. Don't get me wrong, the stuff you shot looks very nice, but it doesn't have the classic hand crank look. I understand why you used the drill since I've done a bit of hand cranking myself. 24fps is quite hard to achieve with a hand crank without having a very sore arm.

 

 

It was possible to vary the speed easily just by grabbing onto the drill head and slowing it down and then giving it a quick burst again to ramp into slowmo.

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It was possible to vary the speed easily just by grabbing onto the drill head and slowing it down and then giving it a quick burst again to ramp into slowmo.

You know, after I made my post I thought just that. But did you do that much? The motion and exposure just seemed more consistent than that.

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You know, after I made my post I thought just that. But did you do that much? The motion and exposure just seemed more consistent than that.

 

The director did want some parts to be consistent, so I had someone yelling out the frame rates from the LED readout. I could keep it at a certain speed if I wanted, One jib shot was done on an LT just to make it easier.

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