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andres victorero

Arri 35-3 problem

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Hi i just received a arri 35-3 (I think first generation) purchased from ebay.

 

The camera looks good but it doesn´t work. I replace the 15A fuse but don´t work (the fuse work)

I plug a standard 12v. 4Ah battery with XLR4 plug. I´m not familiar with this cam but I think that it uses standard XLR4 batteries.

 

I´m afraid about to purchase a "beautiful anchor" what do you think about this problem?

 

Do you can recommend me a good company in Europe for repair and overhaul?

 

Thanks

Edited by andres victorero

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Hi i just received a arri 35-3 (I think first generation) purchased from ebay.

 

The camera looks good but it doesn´t work. I replace the 15A fuse but don´t work (the fuse work)

I plug a standard 12v. 4Ah battery with XLR4 plug. I´m not familiar with this cam but I think that it uses standard XLR4 batteries.

 

I´m afraid about to purchase a "beautiful anchor" what do you think about this problem?

 

Do you can recommend me a good company in Europe for repair and overhaul?

 

Thanks

First, unplug the power cable from the camera, and check with a volt meter that you have 12 volts between pins 1 and 4 (the two farthest apart).

 

 

 

-- J.S.

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thanks but the battery woks well (13 volts) It runs normally my LTR7, any other advice?

It depends on how confident you are in your ability to do this, but if it were mine, I'd see what I could take apart on the motor. The hopeful fact is that a motor that won't run at all is often a very simple and inexpensive repair -- a broken wire or switch or some such thing. A motor that still runs, but poorly, is often more expensive.

 

Look for a camera rental company near you. They have to maintain their own equipment, and may also do repairs. Even if they don't advertise repair service, ask them. If they don't want the money, perhaps they can recommend someone else.

 

 

 

-- J.S.

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There are two fuses on the arri 3. The one at the top by the 24/25 switch and the main fuse. Take off the right hand side cover... the fuse is obvious. It usually blows when plugging in or unplugging the high speed control or reversing plug while the camera is still connected to the battery. NEVER do this.

 

Arri Munich or Movietech in London would sort it. But try the main fuse first

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Hi,

This trick worked with mine : turn the brown knurled disk with your finger to help the motor starting...be carefull not to let one of your finger in the mechanism....

After a small cleaning your camera should run without problems for a long time.

Good luck.

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Guest Robert Skates

Hello,

This may sound crazy. Take a voltage meter/tester, touch the negative to something metal, not attached to the camera. Take the positive touch it to various points all along the dumb side of the camera. Arri III's have been known to develop shorts. I've seen this happen to more than one 35 III over the years.

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The camera looks good but it doesn´t work. I replace the 15A fuse but don´t work (the fuse work)

I plug a standard 12v. 4Ah battery with XLR4 plug. I´m not familiar with this cam but I think that it uses standard XLR4 batteries.

 

Cut and Pasted from a current thread on cml-ac. This might be of some help.

 

>trying to determine a power/electronic problem with an Arri 35-III.

the camera motor turns on at high speed when the 12->11pin power cable is

plugged in from the Sony XC-77 video tap to the body. This is without the

old style (Arri?) speed base attached.

 

This is my first post, so by way of introduction, I live in NZ and make

part of my income from looking after the electronics of cameras.

 

The body of a 35-III is electrically isolated from the battery power

circuit. The transistor (T1 BD249) that directly controls the motor current

is mounted to the body for heat sinking, but insulated from it by an

insulating washer & insulating bush around the screw. If this insulation

should fail, the camera will run quite normally so long as the camera is

not connected to anything else. However, most video assist cameras connect

the power -ve to their body. When they are mounted on the Arri that also

connects the Arri body to -ve. If the above insulation has failed that will

then allow the motor current to bypass the transistor and the motor will

run at high speed. As a preliminary test, with the camera not connected to

anything else, unscrew the 6 pin motor plug. Using an ohmmeter, check

whether there is any continuity between pin 4 and bare metal on the body.

Then check pin 3 to the body. There should be no current path for either pin.

 

I'm not familiar with an Arri base so can't offer any help there.

Hope this helps.

Regards

Malcolm Moore.

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