Elie Kamal Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 is it possible to make the following shot?if yes how? the shot starts with a time lapse of 1min 14 sec to get a shot of 30seconds (14 hours original time). and then the camera moves along the street on steadicam i managed to rig the camera in a way that it will stay lock off for the time lapse and then the steadicam operator can take it and put it very smoothly for the rest of the shot, but my main concerne is how to achieve the time lapse and then have the camera to run at 24fps again with my desired T-stop once the camera is on steadicam. Best Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timHealy Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Sounds like you will probably have to split your shot in two: The time lapse half and the real time half with maybe some frame adjustment for the transition. But you will need to check if the SR 3 can do time lapse. I am not positive but my hunch is no without a 3rd party controller. The SR 1 and 2's only ran from 5-75 frames per second (5 to 150 for the High Speed versions) off the shelf. You can see here that the SR-3 specs also say 5-75 (or 150) frames per second. http://www.leeutterbach.com/joomla/pdf/cam..._SR3_manual.pdf Cinema Electronics has a single frame upgrade and Time Lapse controller for SR's that you may want to look into if the Sr 3 doen't have the single frame time lapse. There are other intervalometers too. Best Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Lowe Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 sounds like a neat shot if you can pull it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Daly Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 If you want to put some money into it the 416 goes 1 FPS, you could use a remote start switch to just switch on and off within a second for your time lapse. Theoretically you could use an intervalometer to do the time lapse shot and then just switch to the normal motor between exposures. I advise against though. In my very recent experience intervalometers do not work well with the sr3, the shutter will not cap fully and when exposing will sneak into the gate a bit to chop off a hefty portion of the corner. It was such a problem that we at CSC got rid of all of ours a long time ago. I recently did a check out with one from TCS and all of the above problems were instantly appearant. If you have a desired t-stop you want to shoot with, the remote witch could be the way to go, for you could always take the lense off and compensate with the shutter. The obvious cons being possible dust introduction and moving the locked camera. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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