Jump to content

Filmo Super 16 conversion


Joshua Green

Recommended Posts

Hello. I have reciently purchased 2 Bell & Howell Filmo 16mm cameras and want to convert one to super 16. I am not worried about realigning the turret as I will be using lenses that will cover the difference. I know that I have to grind the gate a little more than 2mm but I think I also have to grind down a part of the sprockets opposite of the teeth (I believe it is the sound stripe part of the sprockets). My question is how much do I have to grind and why exactly do I have to do this if the sprockets are single perf and thus use single perf film? What would happen if I didn't grind the sprockets opposite of the teeth?

 

Also, are there any clear instructions on how to do convert a filmo to super 16? Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also, are there any clear instructions on how to do convert a filmo to super 16? Thanks.
I've heard of one or two Filmo S16 conversions, but in general don't think it's a very good choice for conversion. In addition to the hardened steel gate, the frame needs milling. The lenses will be offset and you will likely wind up with non-symmetrical vignetting. And the shutter may need to be expanded to cover the gate. As for the sprockets, if you have a single-sprocket camera (70-DL, DR, or late model DA) you don't need to machine down the sprockets, but you may wind up with marks on the emulsion. Older Filmos (the black ones) were dual sprocket, and aren't worth fooling with - there's too much rework involved.

 

If you have access to a machine shop you may be able to handle this, but if not you'll be paying a lot for S16 conversion to a wind-up, $100 camera.

 

Let us know your progress, though - if it works, I might be interested also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Hello. I have reciently purchased 2 Bell & Howell Filmo 16mm cameras and want to convert one to super 16. I am not worried about realigning the turret as I will be using lenses that will cover the difference. I know that I have to grind the gate a little more than 2mm but I think I also have to grind down a part of the sprockets opposite of the teeth (I believe it is the sound stripe part of the sprockets). My question is how much do I have to grind and why exactly do I have to do this if the sprockets are single perf and thus use single perf film? What would happen if I didn't grind the sprockets opposite of the teeth?

 

Also, are there any clear instructions on how to do convert a filmo to super 16? Thanks.

 

This reply may be a little late, but if your interested- Yes a super16 conversion for this camera is possible. I had purchased a super16 front plate from someone on ebay years ago, only to find out it was indeed hand done. The gate had been widened and as it was a double pulldown claw, one of the "hooks" had been cut off. There's someone on youtube who has a video of himself performing such a modification (Come to think of it, that's not you is it? ;) ).

I took test footage at multiple focal lengths and noticed that there wasn't any vignetting! Some lenses would probably still vignette depending on how much light is coming through the rear end of your lenses (I used some lenses off of my beaulieu for this experiment). The only real issue I had with it is in telecine, I can't help but notice that filmo footage sometimes seems to "flicker."

Other then that it was a good camera, I say "was" because one of my tripods decided to take a swan dive and the camera stopped working after that. These cameras where used in combat, meanwhile my camera takes a small bump and takes a dirt nap. Anyway I hope this helps.

 

-Phil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...