Jump to content

Arri 16s Battery Problems


Paco Sweetman

Recommended Posts

I'm using an old PAG universal constant current charger to charge an 8volt battery I have. I've never used this before. It has two settings on it. One is low and the other is high. The Low setting shows 4 DC Amps on the meter and the High shows 6.5 - 7 DC amps.

 

I tried charging it on low and nothing happened. Then i charged it on High and the camera was running fine for a test last night. Now the battery doesn't seem to be charging.

 

I know I'm asking stupid questions, but I'm baffled.

 

Any help / suggestions as always would be greatfully appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Premium Member

Definitely the low. It takes longer, but it's better for the batteries. Even 4 Amps is a lot for those little batteries. Rule of thumb is to use a ten hour rate, charging Amps should be one tenth of the Amp-Hour rating of the battery.

 

 

 

 

-- J.S.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Jean-Louis, unfortunately I don't know what the batteries are. I think it's fair to say they're both banjaxed.

 

I really want to use it. So I have found this.

 

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/113655-REG/Bescor_BES015XLRATM_BES_015XLRA_Shoulder_Pack_Lead_Acid.html

 

 

Could anyone see this as being a problem?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Premium Member

The Arri S is designed for 8 Volts. You can use that 12 Volt setup with the variable speed motor, provided that you're very careful never to run it too fast, and only with internal loads. You could also get a sealed lead acid battery of the type used for UPS's, motorcycles, etc, and an ordinary charger from AutoZone, and build your own -- probably for less money.

 

 

 

 

 

-- J.S.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks John. The Reason I'm looking at the 12volts is that I have a Tobin Cinema Systems Crystal sync motor from him (TX-22). And I'd really like to be able to use that. I know that it would also involve me converting my torque motor to 12volts. I figure fix the kit now while there is still items like this on the scene.

 

RE: Making one, i quite simply don't have the expertise. I figured if I bought a Bescor, apart from using a plug adaptor to charge it, it would work fine with my 12volt motor.

 

I would probably bin the original Battery's and sell the variable speed motor that came with it (who would take it anyway?).

I'm basically asking to make sure I don't order a loads of stuff from the US and figure out I've made a huge error miscalculating something.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I appreciate you may feel uncomfortable making something yourself, but I'm sure you could find something suitable located in the Uk and thus save the costs of importing. Even if that fails, you shouldn't be too afraid about tackling it yourself either.

 

A 12V 3.4Ah sealed lead acid battery could be picked up for less than £10 (eg. here)

 

A charger for less than £20 (clicky)

 

You will obviously need to come up with a lead to go from this to the camera. The battery takes spade connectors, such as these. To fit these you would need a pair of crimpers, a cheap set like this would do. For the cable to the camera you might be able to modify the one for your existing battery pack - cut the cable at the battery end and crimp on the connectors to the new battery. Alternatively you could purchase a commercial XLR lead and cut one end off that to modify yourself to go to the new battery. You would need to make sure you connect the lead up to the battery the correct way round, but with a little guidance that shouldn't be too difficult to sort either.

 

If all else fails then I'm sure you could find someone able to help. A lot of car electrics make use of crimped on connectors (or at least used to), so if you took the bits to a self-employed car electrician (or small garage) they might be prepared to crimp the connectors on the end for you. I'd tend to avoid main dealers and garages that are part of a large chain.

 

I accept this approach doesn't give you a stylish battery pack in a shoulder bag, but if you take the battery to a shop stocking camera bags you'll probably find something you can stuff the battery in that'll give it a shoulder strap and a bit more of a professional appearance.

 

 

I wouldn't necessarily bin the original battery either, there are firms in the UK who will fit new cells in old battery packs for a fraction of the cost of a new "Arri" compatible camera battery. For the moderate cost it would give you a spare working motor should you ever encounter problems with the crystal sync system in the future. You never know, you might find you want to use the variable speed motor yourself to film something in slow-motion (or speeded up)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

I appreciate you may feel uncomfortable making something yourself, but I'm sure you could find something suitable located in the Uk and thus save the costs of importing. Even if that fails, you shouldn't be too afraid about tackling it yourself either.

 

A 12V 3.4Ah sealed lead acid battery could be picked up for less than £10 (eg. here)

 

A charger for less than £20 (clicky)

 

You will obviously need to come up with a lead to go from this to the camera. The battery takes spade connectors, such as these. To fit these you would need a pair of crimpers, a cheap set like this would do. For the cable to the camera you might be able to modify the one for your existing battery pack - cut the cable at the battery end and crimp on the connectors to the new battery. Alternatively you could purchase a commercial XLR lead and cut one end off that to modify yourself to go to the new battery. You would need to make sure you connect the lead up to the battery the correct way round, but with a little guidance that shouldn't be too difficult to sort either.

 

If all else fails then I'm sure you could find someone able to help. A lot of car electrics make use of crimped on connectors (or at least used to), so if you took the bits to a self-employed car electrician (or small garage) they might be prepared to crimp the connectors on the end for you. I'd tend to avoid main dealers and garages that are part of a large chain.

 

I accept this approach doesn't give you a stylish battery pack in a shoulder bag, but if you take the battery to a shop stocking camera bags you'll probably find something you can stuff the battery in that'll give it a shoulder strap and a bit more of a professional appearance.

 

 

I wouldn't necessarily bin the original battery either, there are firms in the UK who will fit new cells in old battery packs for a fraction of the cost of a new "Arri" compatible camera battery. For the moderate cost it would give you a spare working motor should you ever encounter problems with the crystal sync system in the future. You never know, you might find you want to use the variable speed motor yourself to film something in slow-motion (or speeded up)

 

Hi Ian

 

That's one of the best tips ever!

 

I might try that. I'm acquiring two Arriflex 16s. But no batteries or cables.

Regarding CABLES, you know which ones and where to buy in UK that attach on an Arriflex 16s?

 

 

I might do two packs to use on both cameras.

 

Thanks,

 

Flavio

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Ian

 

That's one of the best tips ever!

 

I might try that. I'm acquiring two Arriflex 16s. But no batteries or cables.

Regarding CABLES, you know which ones and where to buy in UK that attach on an Arriflex 16s?

 

 

I might do two packs to use on both cameras.

 

Thanks,

 

Flavio

 

I'd be careful and check what motor is fitted to the cameras first. I understand the standard Arri 16s ran from an 8 volt battery, you are likely to cause damage if you just run this from 12 volts. The Tobin crystal sync motor Paco was using in this thread runs from 12 volts, hence why it's possible to use a common 12V sealed lead acid battery for that.

 

However, if you're up for a bit of fairly straightforward tinkering then it's not too difficult to sort out a new 8V battery pack. The bigger problem may be the connectors. I understand the standard motor used a 2-pin connector which doesn't look like a standard part.

 

If your camera already comes with a battery and connecting lead then it might be better to consider re-celling the battery pack you've got and reusing the cable you've got. New leads to go from the camera to a standard 4-pin XLR are available, but they're far from cheap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd be careful and check what motor is fitted to the cameras first. I understand the standard Arri 16s ran from an 8 volt battery, you are likely to cause damage if you just run this from 12 volts. The Tobin crystal sync motor Paco was using in this thread runs from 12 volts, hence why it's possible to use a common 12V sealed lead acid battery for that.

 

However, if you're up for a bit of fairly straightforward tinkering then it's not too difficult to sort out a new 8V battery pack. The bigger problem may be the connectors. I understand the standard motor used a 2-pin connector which doesn't look like a standard part.

 

If your camera already comes with a battery and connecting lead then it might be better to consider re-celling the battery pack you've got and reusing the cable you've got. New leads to go from the camera to a standard 4-pin XLR are available, but they're far from cheap.

 

Hi Iain.

 

Thanks loads for your answer.

 

I'll have two motors actually, one is 8V and anotehr is a tobin 12V

I'd like to have two battery packs, but in 12V as I intend to buy another 12V and sell my 8V.

 

 

If you could help me to make a list of what i'll need, it would be greatly appreciated.

I will get my two Arriflex soon, so want to be ready to turn them on when they arrive.

 

I saw your items above. But is there anything else I shoudl buy? (e.g.: the cable you mentioned, which one is?)

 

Thanks loads!

 

Flavio

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I'll have two motors actually, one is 8V and another is a tobin 12V

I'd like to have two battery packs, but in 12V as I intend to buy another 12V and sell my 8V.

 

 

In that case you have two options, the first is to make a lead yourself, the second is to modify a pre-made lead.

 

Standard wiring for 4-pin XLR connectors is:

Pin 1: 0V

Pin 4: 12V

(which reference to the Tobin website confirms is also the wiring for the TXM22 sync motor)

 

The connectors usually have their pin numbers moulded into them.

If you are happy doing soldering yourself (a useful skill to learn anyway) then female 4-pin XLR connectors are available on the high street in the UK from the likes of Maplin Electronics. They would also be able to supply you with a bit of 2-core flex, crimps and anything else you might need, including soldering irons etc.

 

If you're not so happy soldering together the plug yourself, then the next option is to modify an existing lead. A bit of googling might find something cheaper, but in essence you want something like this, or this.

 

You can then cut off the connector you don't need (the male one, which has the pins. The female one has the latch release button and will plug into the motor!) You'll need to find out which of the internal wires are connected to pins 1 & 4 (open the connector and have a look), then fit the battery crimps. Make sure you connect the cable to the battery the correct way around ;)

Edited by Ian Cooper
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

In that case you have two options, the first is to make a lead yourself, the second is to modify a pre-made lead.

 

Standard wiring for 4-pin XLR connectors is:

Pin 1: 0V

Pin 4: 12V

(which reference to the Tobin website confirms is also the wiring for the TXM22 sync motor)

 

The connectors usually have their pin numbers moulded into them.

If you are happy doing soldering yourself (a useful skill to learn anyway) then female 4-pin XLR connectors are available on the high street in the UK from the likes of Maplin Electronics. They would also be able to supply you with a bit of 2-core flex, crimps and anything else you might need, including soldering irons etc.

 

If you're not so happy soldering together the plug yourself, then the next option is to modify an existing lead. A bit of googling might find something cheaper, but in essence you want something like this, or this.

 

You can then cut off the connector you don't need (the male one, which has the pins. The female one has the latch release button and will plug into the motor!) You'll need to find out which of the internal wires are connected to pins 1 & 4 (open the connector and have a look), then fit the battery crimps. Make sure you connect the cable to the battery the correct way around ;)

 

 

Ok, am going to build this cable.

 

I saw the Maplin piece, Ian. But what is the banana plug for the other side?

I saw on filmcamerakit on this page on New Arri 16 ST Power Cable, the banana plug has some kind of "clip" that would probably be helpful to hold the cable on place.

 

Please let me know other specs, like the CABLE TYPE/MM, and HOW LONG it should ideally be or how long they normally are.

Want to go soon to Maplin with a list to build 2 identical cables.

 

Thanks, guys!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...what is the banana plug for the other side?

I saw on filmcamerakit on this page on New Arri 16 ST Power Cable, the banana plug has some kind of "clip" that would probably be helpful to hold the cable on place.

 

I think you'll find that plug is what was used to connect to the original Arri motor, however, you've said that the camera has a Tobin crystal motor which uses standard 4-pin XLR connectors - so you don't need the awkward original type.

 

 

 

Please let me know other specs, like the CABLE TYPE/MM, and HOW LONG it should ideally be or how long they normally are.

 

The original camera motor would draw 3.6A continuous (up to 6A starting). The Tobin motor manual doesn't give consumption figures, but we can probably assume it won't be any higher. On that basis you need to select a cable able to carry at least 4A continuously. Something like order code CA69A (rated 6A continuous) would be more than ample.

 

If that seems a little bulky then you could probably get away with something like order code XS91Y (3A continuous). It is unlikely the camera is going to be left running continously for any great length of time where the cable will dangerously overheat, and given the application you are quite likely to be able to feel it getting warm and take appropriate action.

 

As for length, that's entirely up to you!

What sort of battery do you plan to use with the camera, and where do you plan to put it?

 

If you plan to use a battery belt, or carry the battery in a bag over your shoulder, then the cable needs to be long enough to allow a bit of flexibility without dragging on the floor as you move around! If you envisage only ever using the camera with a big heavy battery sitting on the floor, then the cable needs to be long enough to go from the battery to camera whilst still allowing you to pan/tilt it around a bit without pulling. If you want to put the camera on the end of a jib then you'll probably need a longer cable (or at least an extension lead) so the battery isn't also hanging on the end.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you'll find that plug is what was used to connect to the original Arri motor, however, you've said that the camera has a Tobin crystal motor which uses standard 4-pin XLR connectors - so you don't need the awkward original type.

 

 

 

 

 

The original camera motor would draw 3.6A continuous (up to 6A starting). The Tobin motor manual doesn't give consumption figures, but we can probably assume it won't be any higher. On that basis you need to select a cable able to carry at least 4A continuously. Something like order code CA69A (rated 6A continuous) would be more than ample.

 

If that seems a little bulky then you could probably get away with something like order code XS91Y (3A continuous). It is unlikely the camera is going to be left running continously for any great length of time where the cable will dangerously overheat, and given the application you are quite likely to be able to feel it getting warm and take appropriate action.

 

As for length, that's entirely up to you!

What sort of battery do you plan to use with the camera, and where do you plan to put it?

 

If you plan to use a battery belt, or carry the battery in a bag over your shoulder, then the cable needs to be long enough to allow a bit of flexibility without dragging on the floor as you move around! If you envisage only ever using the camera with a big heavy battery sitting on the floor, then the cable needs to be long enough to go from the battery to camera whilst still allowing you to pan/tilt it around a bit without pulling. If you want to put the camera on the end of a jib then you'll probably need a longer cable (or at least an extension lead) so the battery isn't also hanging on the end.

 

Sorry. I said Tobin CRYSTAL, but actually is not a crystal motor. It's the TCS TM-23. Not a crystal-sync motor...

 

And both cameras have the male "banana" connector on the back. That plug on filmcamerakit.com would be perfect cause it also has that piece that holds together with another pice that locks it firmly in the body, avoiding it be pulled by mistake.

Anyway, that's my only problem now. Find that piece (or a similar one, of course).

 

Another random question... I saw a nice soldering iron on Maplin, it's battery powered... Do you reckon this would do the job? Cause mine is an old one, a bit damaged, will trow out and buy a new. And have one on batteries, means I can do this on every place...

 

Many million thanks again for all your help, Ian!

F

Edited by flavio filho
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry. I said Tobin CRYSTAL, but actually is not a crystal motor. It's the TCS TM-23. Not a crystal-sync motor...

 

And both cameras have the male "banana" connector on the back. That plug on filmcamerakit.com would be perfect cause it also has that piece that holds together with another pice that locks it firmly in the body, avoiding it be pulled by mistake.

Anyway, that's my only problem now. Find that piece (or a similar one, of course).

 

Another random question... I saw a nice soldering iron on Maplin, it's battery powered... Do you reckon this would do the job? Cause mine is an old one, a bit damaged, will trow out and buy a new. And have one on batteries, means I can do this on every place...

 

Many million thanks again for all your help, Ian!

F

 

 

One last thing... I'm looking for that "banana plug" but I find it only in the most different shapes. But none looks like that one.

Do you know the technical name of it?

I've found a similar line of IEC CONNECTORS, but I think are not that ones as well.

 

:S

Edited by flavio filho
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry. I said Tobin CRYSTAL, but actually is not a crystal motor. It's the TCS TM-23. Not a crystal-sync motor...

 

And both cameras have the male "banana" connector on the back. That plug on filmcamerakit.com would be perfect cause it also has that piece that holds together with another pice that locks it firmly in the body, avoiding it be pulled by mistake.

Anyway, that's my only problem now. Find that piece (or a similar one, of course).

 

Another random question... I saw a nice soldering iron on Maplin, it's battery powered... Do you reckon this would do the job? Cause mine is an old one, a bit damaged, will trow out and buy a new. And have one on batteries, means I can do this on every place...

 

Many million thanks again for all your help, Ian!

F

 

If your motor still has the original Arri connections then you've got a problem!

 

In the absence of an original battery lead you can canabalise, you will need to try and find a mating connector. Unfortunately I don't know what type it is, or if it is still available. You might find FilmCameraKit have a small supply of original Arri connectors which they use to make their leads - but I doubt they'd be prepared to sell you one when they could sell you a nice new lead instead :rolleyes:

 

The other option open to you might be to convert the motor to a standard 4-pin XLR connector. You would have to investigate the possibilities of this yourself, as I don't know what the motor is like myself.

 

As for battery powered soldering irons - I would personally stick to a mains powered one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Damn!

 

Ok. But if filmcamerakit has them, they might know who does and where to find. I mean... This thing EXISTS!

Well, I'd really prefer to keep the camera original instead of adapting a hole somewhere just to connect a cable...

 

Is there any other electrical shops/suppliers in UK that might know the answer? Or maybe have it?

I'm on a quest for it now... I will not pay 75quid for a single cable, I think this is absurd.

I'm contacting Arri anyway, somebody there would be prepared to answer.

 

Thanks again, Ian.

F

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Damn!

 

Ok. But if filmcamerakit has them, they might know who does and where to find. I mean... This thing EXISTS!

 

Well, this thing certainly existed. Whether it still exists is another matter!

 

If it was a custom part made specifically for Arri 50 years ago, then I think it safe to say Arri sold out of stock long ago. I don't suppose there is a huge demand for replacement leads, so as I suggested before, FilmCameraKit could have their own limited supply which they've collected from various scrap camera leads over the years.

 

Whilst I can sympathise with your desire to keep things as close to original as possible, you might have to decide whether you're willing to pay £70 for the privilidge! ...or to modify it so a lead and connector hangs out the back thus enabling you to make a cheap lead for less than £20.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, this thing certainly existed. Whether it still exists is another matter!

 

If it was a custom part made specifically for Arri 50 years ago, then I think it safe to say Arri sold out of stock long ago. I don't suppose there is a huge demand for replacement leads, so as I suggested before, FilmCameraKit could have their own limited supply which they've collected from various scrap camera leads over the years.

 

Whilst I can sympathise with your desire to keep things as close to original as possible, you might have to decide whether you're willing to pay £70 for the privilidge! ...or to modify it so a lead and connector hangs out the back thus enabling you to make a cheap lead for less than £20.

 

SUre. I know what you mean.

But there's hundreds of possibilities.

 

Something will come up soon. Await!!

;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Something will come up soon. Await!!

;)

 

Hello flavio!

 

Maybe I can help you with your power cable dilemma, or at least show you what you need.

 

I have a 16S/B camera kit, with the "standard" or original Arri camera connectors. Here's some pics of what the camera end of the cable looks like:

 

(This 1st series of pics is not an official Arri cable, but, I think, a Cine 60 version of the cable. Several U.S. companies were offering Arri S cables in the '70s)

 

16-Scable001.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Note, the holes are different size for different size pins. This is to ensure the polarity is not reversed.

 

16-Scable004-1.jpg

 

 

 

This next view shows where the important grounding cable to the torque motor is inserted. The single wire had a small banana plug on each end.

 

16-Scable003-1.jpg

 

 

When using the 200ft or 400ft mag with the torque motor, Arri recommended that a jumper cable for the ground side be used to insure perfect operation of the torque motor. While the mag was grounded to the camera body, it wasn't always guarantied to have a good contact. In my experience, I kept everything clean and never had any problem when not using the jumper wire, but one was never sure. I also kept loosing the damn things.

 

Here is what a new cable from Arri looks like. This is my spare that has never been used! The only thing I've done to this cable is to change the battery

connector. This cable shows what the torque motor "jumper cable" looks like. (original Arri tape on the banana plug!)

 

16-Scable006-1.jpg

 

 

 

Connection at the torque motor

 

16-Scable007-1-1.jpg

 

 

Unless you modify your 16S body for another connector such as Du-all camera has done (you may have to e-mail them about a new camera connector modification), where does one find a original Arri connector?

 

I would try Cine 60 and see if they have anything left. They may only offer it with a coiled cable, but you can always make an extension on the battery end. Other than that, I would look at ebay, or try some of the old rental houses in L.A., Alan Gordon, Birns & Sawyer etc.

 

Another thing to look out for is the rubber connector that couples the motor to the drive shaft. If that is slipping, it won't matter what cable connector you have tongue.gif. Again, Du-all my have the correct fix.

 

I know Tim Carroll on the forum here has some ideas, he's a craftsman with these cameras. Talk to him 1st!

 

I have the Tobin TMX-22 Xtal motor for my camera. THAT is the only way to go today! Wish I had it back when I 1st bought my camera.

 

The Arri S is a terrific little camera!

 

 

Hope that helps,

Charlie

 

(I apologize for the cheesy arrows on the pics!)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello flavio!

 

Maybe I can help you with your power cable dilemma, or at least show you what you need.

 

I have a 16S/B camera kit, with the "standard" or original Arri camera connectors. Here's some pics of what the camera end of the cable looks like:

 

(This 1st series of pics is not an official Arri cable, but, I think, a Cine 60 version of the cable. Several U.S. companies were offering Arri S cables in the '70s)

 

16-Scable001.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Note, the holes are different size for different size pins. This is to ensure the polarity is not reversed.

 

16-Scable004-1.jpg

 

 

 

This next view shows where the important grounding cable to the torque motor is inserted. The single wire had a small banana plug on each end.

 

16-Scable003-1.jpg

 

 

When using the 200ft or 400ft mag with the torque motor, Arri recommended that a jumper cable for the ground side be used to insure perfect operation of the torque motor. While the mag was grounded to the camera body, it wasn't always guarantied to have a good contact. In my experience, I kept everything clean and never had any problem when not using the jumper wire, but one was never sure. I also kept loosing the damn things.

 

Here is what a new cable from Arri looks like. This is my spare that has never been used! The only thing I've done to this cable is to change the battery

connector. This cable shows what the torque motor "jumper cable" looks like. (original Arri tape on the banana plug!)

 

16-Scable006-1.jpg

 

 

 

Connection at the torque motor

 

16-Scable007-1-1.jpg

 

 

Unless you modify your 16S body for another connector such as Du-all camera has done (you may have to e-mail them about a new camera connector modification), where does one find a original Arri connector?

 

I would try Cine 60 and see if they have anything left. They may only offer it with a coiled cable, but you can always make an extension on the battery end. Other than that, I would look at ebay, or try some of the old rental houses in L.A., Alan Gordon, Birns & Sawyer etc.

 

Another thing to look out for is the rubber connector that couples the motor to the drive shaft. If that is slipping, it won't matter what cable connector you have tongue.gif. Again, Du-all my have the correct fix.

 

I know Tim Carroll on the forum here has some ideas, he's a craftsman with these cameras. Talk to him 1st!

 

I have the Tobin TMX-22 Xtal motor for my camera. THAT is the only way to go today! Wish I had it back when I 1st bought my camera.

 

The Arri S is a terrific little camera!

 

 

Hope that helps,

Charlie

 

(I apologize for the cheesy arrows on the pics!)

 

 

Hi Charlie.

 

It's really nice of you posting pics of your cable, thanks loads.

 

Good news is that I'm in contact with a seller that has similar cables, but to stick on the MAINS. If they ARE the ones and connect to an Arri 16s, I'll buy them for a good price and then stick an XLR 4-PIN in the other side. And get two Arris 16s "original" cables!

 

Ha! :D

 

Wish me luck!

 

Thanks, man!

Flavio

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

SO... Bought 2 cables.. For $45 both only... Original Arri cables. :D

ALL THE STUFF on Ian's list...

 

Now I have 1 cable with with the back connection to the torque motor, and 1 with no back connection.

 

I'm going to change the XLR END of both NOW!

But just to confirm last time if I got this really STRAIGHT... Iain! if you are around, please...

 

--> Luckly as you said, both ends have the indication + and - ...

--> SO............................................... Is the + WIRE the one connects to the Pin 4? And the - WIRE is the one to pin 0?

 

I think it is, but need to confirm! :S

 

First timer! Argh!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...