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New Memeber - New XL1S/XL2


D. Jason

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Hey everyone,

 

I'm new to these forums and could use a little advice on a couple items.

 

A good filter to start please... I recently purchased a used XL1S (BTW, it has an XL2 lens, the seller picked up an XL2 but prefers his aftermarket lens, so I got the used XL1S with his newer XL2 lens), :) anyway, I was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of a good filter for day time shooting. I'm looking to get more from my skies, clouds, etc. and bring more contrast to the shot overall. Does that make sense? The ND filter looks like it keeps it from showing too hot during day use but I didn't notice it help a ton with the contrast. Or... am I missing something?

 

Second...

I'm shooting some motocross this weekend and was wondering if I should stay in the higher shutter speeds (2000+) to freeze frame and overlay some 3D animation on one of the bikes. This is for a product overlay, but I might use some of the footage later for other projects and worry that faster shutter speeds may be a bit ugly if I keep it high throughout. Keep in mind that I'm a 3D animator first; the camera side for me is a bit more newbish. This is my 3rd camera purchase, moving up from single, then three chip mini DV, to the XL1S. But still, a lot to learn.

 

I used the search but didn't run over anything that helped much. More than likely I'm searching in the wrong way. :unsure: Point me to the proper keyword search and I would more than happy to read any link/post that gets me going in the right direction.

 

Thanks in advance! It looks like a great place you all have here!

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Kudos on the XL purchase. I've used it for a few years now and like it. A circular polarizer (filter) will bring out the skies. You'll need a 72mm threaded filter and I like Tiffen, Hoya, or B+W brands. Ebay's a good place to find these cheap. 2000 shutter speed is too high. 250+ will give you the motion you're looking for. One thing you must do though is shoot in "frame" mode. It's Canon's progressive scan. If you don't shoot in frame you'll have an interlaced still and the footage will look like crappy television. As far as the contrast issue, I think it's better to do that in post. You can, however, adjust the custom settings to make the blacks blacker. Good luck with the shoot.

 

AT

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Kudos on the XL purchase. I've used it for a few years now and like it. A circular polarizer (filter) will bring out the skies. You'll need a 72mm threaded filter and I like Tiffen, Hoya, or B+W brands. Ebay's a good place to find these cheap. 2000 shutter speed is too high. 250+ will give you the motion you're looking for. One thing you must do though is shoot in "frame" mode. It's Canon's progressive scan. If you don't shoot in frame you'll have an interlaced still and the footage will look like crappy television. As far as the contrast issue, I think it's better to do that in post. You can, however, adjust the custom settings to make the blacks blacker. Good luck with the shoot.

 

AT

 

Excellent! Thank you!

So just about any polarizer from one of those manufactures then?

As for the shutter speed... I had no idea where to even start since the range was a bit extreme compared to my older Panasonic. What in the H#LL would I ever use 16000 for then? :blink: When I was checking out the shutter speeds I was surprised it went that high on the XL1. I guess if I ever want to freeze frame a bullet from a S&W... (Joking). And I have only used Progressive/Frame anyway, as most everything is (in one way or another) part of an interactive CD-ROM, Interlaced does me no good.

 

Know of any PDF's, books, (video?), etc. that go into more detail of the features and tweaks for this camera? The provided manual is simplistic in details. And I hate pestering people on a forum with the same old tired questions.

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I have not come accross a user's guide for the XL1s. I'd suggest shooting in "manual" mode and spending some time adjusting the custom settings the way you want them. I'd avoid using really wide shots because there's not enough resolution for them. Use your zebra lines and light meter and you should come out with some good footage.

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Your advice helped, thanks again.

 

I picked up a polarizer before heading to the races on Sunday, It helped a lot. The toughest part of shooting the moto was the fact that it was a HUGE track, so a good part of the shots are taken from a distance of 50-100 yards. I wanted a fair amount of camera motion to keep the shots active but in some instances I got more than needed. Thank god for letterboxing and Pan & Scan! :D

 

Although I only needed a couple of the segments for the interactive CD, I shot extra so that I could also try my hand at a music & video segment.

I know... :unsure: everyone has done one during early stages of playing with a new camera, but I could not help myself, so I chunked one out. By no means is it anything special, but I had fun doing it, and that's all that matters. Lighting got a little hot in a few areas, at was getting late when I started so standing in one location was too much light and in another it was all backlighting. That was a real bugger. And last, I could not resist using Linkin Park's "Papercut", nothing fits moto like Linkin Park.

 

I'll see if I can dig out my flame resistant jacket as I am about to post a link to the clip.

 

Remove the Z at the end....

http://www.danielpatton.com/muddycreek/Mud...ersion-720.wmvZ

 

 

If your connection speed sucks here is a smaller one (Yuck), also remove the Z at the end

http://www.danielpatton.com/muddycreek/Mud...ersion-360.wmvZ

 

 

If you don't feel compelled to vomit from this one, :lol: I also have an ATV segment that is similar. Let me know if anyone wants to check it out.

 

Peace!

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