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High Powered LED Lights


Andy Thompson

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HI All

I am looking for input into High Powered LED Lights.

 

I am thinking of buying a LEDZ Superspot, for a job I have that requires battery powered lighting and with its reach, circular beam and output, nothing seems to come close.

 

I used the Brute 16's two years ago and liked them a lot.

 

Is there any genuine alternative to the superspots.

 

Litepanels Hilio, I have read some bad manufacturing reports, and the output is no where near.

 

Thanks

 

Andy

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In LEDs you should be looking at the spectral power distribution of a lamp over the output level. There is no point gaining two stops of light if you loose whole chunks of spectrum. If there is no light of a particular wavelength lighting a scene, then there is no information on your neg (be it digital or film) of that wavelength, then there is nothing you can do to fix it in the grade.

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In LEDs you should be looking at the spectral power distribution of a lamp over the output level. There is no point gaining two stops of light if you loose whole chunks of spectrum. If there is no light of a particular wavelength lighting a scene, then there is no information on your neg (be it digital or film) of that wavelength, then there is nothing you can do to fix it in the grade.

 

I agree with you matthew but this is for a reality TV gig, not a film or commercial. I wouldn't say never to using LED for film or commercials, but only certain companies such as GEKKO....

All I am looking for is a well made, robust unit that can be bounced of a white'ish ceiling in a house or a reflector to create extra light levels, so we don't have to blow the windows all the time.

 

Thanks

Andy

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All I am looking for is a well made, robust unit that can be bounced of a white'ish ceiling in a house or a reflector to create extra light levels, so we don't have to blow the windows all the time.

 

Bouncing an LED into the ceiling or a white card is not going to enable you to hold detail in windows. For that you will need a fairly large HMI - something in the order of a 4k Par.

 

- Guy Holt, Gaffer, ScreenLight & Grip, Lighting Rental and Sales in Boston

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Bouncing an LED into the ceiling or a white card is not going to enable you to hold detail in windows. For that you will need a fairly large HMI - something in the order of a 4k Par.

 

- Guy Holt, Gaffer, ScreenLight & Grip, Lighting Rental and Sales in Boston

Yes Guy I know that, but we strategically film early or late in the day when light levels are less. Or use other techniques to knock the light levels down on the windows, if needed. Just looking for something more punchy then a DIVA, that does not have a ballast as we don't have time to move around large lights and we do set ups on beaches, forest, large back yards, so portability is key.

 

I just want to know if anyone knows of anything different to the standard, GEKKO,Nila (thanks Frank, I have seen these at NAB, very cool) Litepanels, lowel Prime, FLO-Lights, Mole, Arri, LED-Z, etc such as the spanish company that make "the light" (very cool) or the "creamsource" out of australia.

 

At the moment, the winner is the LED-Z superspot which I will demo next week. With Chimera, 2-3 times the brightness of a Diva! But hands on testing is required to see if its any good. I have used the Brute 16's on super yachts with great effect.

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The creamsource is a good piece of gear. Incredibly punchy lamp, not the widest of throws, but still pretty cool. Also very handy to do strobe work with CMOS cameras. Has the ability to be synced with Genlock and tuned into phase so you don't get half frames.

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Yes Guy I know that, but we strategically film early or late in the day when light levels are less. Or use other techniques to knock the light levels down on the windows, if needed. Just looking for something more punchy then a DIVA, that does not have a ballast as we don't have time to move around large lights and we do set ups on beaches, forest, large back yards, so portability is key.

 

I just want to know if anyone knows of anything different to the standard, GEKKO,Nila (thanks Frank, I have seen these at NAB, very cool) Litepanels, lowel Prime, FLO-Lights, Mole, Arri, LED-Z, etc such as the spanish company that make "the light" (very cool) or the "creamsource" out of australia.

 

At the moment, the winner is the LED-Z superspot which I will demo next week. With Chimera, 2-3 times the brightness of a Diva! But hands on testing is required to see if its any good. I have used the Brute 16's on super yachts with great effect.

 

Hi Andy,

 

Frezzi just introduced a High Powered battery operated LED source called the HyLight... a compact single point source 24W LED.

(Full disclosure I work for Frezzi)

 

It runs off standard broadcast batteries (Snap-on or V-Mount style) and throws a lot of light.

A cool industry first feature is the quick change LED lamp modules to change beam angle (24/32/50 degree)and color temp.

 

http://www.frezzi.com/hylight.htm

 

I'm not sure if it has enough kick for your application, maybe HMI is a better option.

You can check the photometrics, they are listed on the web page.

 

Best of Luck!

Kevin

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Frezzi just introduced a High Powered battery operated LED source called the HyLight... a compact single point source 24W LED.

 

Kevin,

 

The interchangeable LED lamp module of your Frezzi LED is an interesting concept, but your website is short on information. Since marketing is the art of omission, can you provide more detailed information such as the CRI for each of the standard sixteen CRI color patches, spectral power distribution for the visible light spectrum, the Power Factor of the AC-to-DC converter that mounts onto the back, the Apparent Power of the head operating on AC, the beam width for each beam angle at 4' and the FC and beam angles at 10', 15', and 20.' Also, please expound upon the verbal acrobatics of "Equivalent to a 100W daylight corrected tungsten" - I'm not sure what is meant by that. Finally, please explain what is meant by "HMI Type Output."

 

Thanks, Guy Holt, Gaffer, ScreenLight & Grip

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Kevin,

 

The interchangeable LED lamp module of your Frezzi LED is an interesting concept, but your website is short on information.

 

Guy,

Thanks for your depth of questions, I can answer some now, some later...

The "HMI Type Output" was coined by a customer because of the HyLights high-output, single-point source properties.

Basically comparing the far field pattern to something like an small open face HMI, smooth edge to edge consistency without color fringing, pixilization or multiple shadow issues common with multi-array LED fixtures.

"Equivalent to 100W daylight corrected tungsten" is a simple yardstick for our ENG customers so they can immediatley identify the relative power output... The HyLight has a similar output to a 100W tungsten lamp, particularly an MR-16 with a Dichroic converter filter. The power consumption of the HyLight is 24 Watts and with the AC power supply, estimating 80% efficiency on the AC Power Supply, total consumption around 28 Watts (I can double check this). With the Battery Pack it is 24W, full on, providing 4 hours of continuous run time. Hope this helps and I'll get back shortly with more info...

Thanks again,

Kevin

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"Equivalent to 100W daylight corrected tungsten" is a simple yardstick for our ENG customers so they can immediatley identify the relative power output... The HyLight has a similar output to a 100W tungsten lamp, particularly an MR-16 with a Dichroic converter filter.

 

For the non ENG shooters, that translates to a 100W incandescent open-face (I don't believe one is even made that small) with full CTB on it. Where full CTB transmits only 24%, you have basically a 24W daylight source - i.e. not much in a daylight situation. Without the hard data the rest of your description is meaningless, so I look forward to receiving the data - especially the spectral power distribution. While you are at it, please provide the B50/L85 life on the fixture (not the diode alone in some lab setting.)

 

Thanks,

 

Guy Holt, Gaffer, ScreenLight & Grip, Lighting Rental & Sales in Boston

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For the non ENG shooters, that translates to a 100W incandescent open-face

 

Thanks again for your interest Guy, I'll link you up when we post more photometric data you requested.

In the mean time, let me clarify the power output data...

Baseline, a GE EXN 100W Tungsten MR16 throws about 240 fc @ 4 feet, if memory serves correct.

Correct to daylight with Dichroic Glass transmission filter (not absorptive CTB dyed gels)

Assuming worst case 1 f-stop loss converting to daylight with the Dichro, 240fc / 2 = 120 fc.

The published 4' fc for the 50 degree HyLight is 120 fc "Equivalent to 100W daylight corrected tungsten"

For the other HyLight lamp modules at 4 feet, 32degree = 160 fc, 24degree = 240 fc.

 

Agreed, a lot of light is needed for an full daylight outdoor fill situation, but that's why HMIs still dominate.

The benefit of the HyLight is it's small size, battery powered and portability. If your going to NAB 2012, I invite you or anyone here to visit the Frezzi booth at C2655, we are next to Philips Color Kinetics in the Center Hall.

I will be happy to give a hands on demo of the HyLight or any of the other Frezzi 24W, 200W or 400W HMI Sun Guns with AC/DC power options.

All the best,

Kevin

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I saw Prism Projection's Reveal profile at BVE in London; these things are getting pretty serious, although that's a high price item more suited to installations than moving around.

 

The Arri stuff is gorgeous.

 

P

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  • 4 weeks later...

I know It hasn't been on the market very long but I think the Eco punch 5600 is the best answer for an LED light source. I've used it for photo and video shoots. I like it a lot better then an HMI, there is no ballast so you can go directly to the wall and it wont burn your hand right off lol. Its dimmable, and has a variety of effects like strobe, lightning etc. The best part of it is I never experienced any color shift. I want to eventually buy my own, theres just nothing else like it.[/size][/size][/size]

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  • 1 month later...

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