Chris Rini Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 Hey guys, I'm a brand new poster. I'm interested in using 1930s cameras (Cine-Kodak K, Bell & Howell Filmo etc.) at historic reenactment events and vintage car tours. How difficult is it to remove or disable the second claw and set of sprocket teeth on these sorts of cameras so I can run 1R filmstock? Any assistance is most appreciated. Thanks, Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Cunningham Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 In my experience most of them don't have a second claw. They just have a second set of sprockets in the rollers. But. Even still. It's hard to cleanly remove those pins in the rollers and create a fat surface for the film AND still have the film roll through smoothly. I think you'd be better off finding someone to re-perf some 1R to 2R or find some old stock/short ends. They are pretty frequently available on eBay especially in tri-x. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heikki Repo Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 And there is also new 2R film available. While Kodak sells 2R film only in larger quantities, ORWO has BW 2R film available and German company Wittner has brought to market color reversal film Aviphot 200D in 16mm 2R. While I'm not sure if ORWO North America (www.orwona.com) has 2R available (or whether you are even located in US), Wittner sells ORWO stock as well (http://www.wittner-kinotechnik.de). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Rini Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 Hey guys, I'm about an hour south of Los Angeles. I'm not afraid of modifying an old camera, (my Dad's a machinist and we help each other on projects) but I wanted to hear the advice of experts first. Thanks a lot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Dom Jaeger Posted April 9, 2013 Premium Member Share Posted April 9, 2013 A number of early 16mm cameras had double claw pulldown movements as well as double perf sprocket rollers, including some Cine-Kodaks and Filmos. It's pretty simple to turn down the top teeth of a double perf sprocket roller in a lathe. If you polish the turned surface afterwards you'll minimise any risk of scratching and creating film dust. Removing the rollers from the camera is usually not too difficult. I hold the roller in the lathe with a mandril to avoid damaging the other row of teeth, keeps it nice and centred also. Likewise you can easily remove a second claw by filing it down so it no longer enters the film. If the movement is easy to access (like on Filmos or Cine-Kodaks) it would be a good idea to remove the claw assembly before filing it, just to prevent metal filings from contaminating the clockwork. Be a bit careful taking Filmos apart, as the spring isn't cased, but you can safely remove the front behind the turret (with the spring run down) to access the movement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zac Fettig Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 It'll be WAY easier to start with a 1-perf camera. I don't think ORWO stocks 2-perf in the US. They might special order it. But they don't stock daylight spools. On core only. Kodak makes 2-perf available on daylight cores. Vision3 200T (7213), in 20 roll min. orders @ $43.21/ea roll. Not quite in the vintage spirit. Spectra sells 2-perf in Vision3 500T, I believe. Again, not in the vintage spirit. If you want the easy way, get a B&H Filmo 70 DR. It's basically the same, mechanically as a 70A. Spring wind it, then use old lenses. Some of the D series Filmos are period correct (Some DA and DL, I think), and most will take 1-perf (the brown ones will). Plus, you'll have an easier time with transfers. My 70A is 16 FPS (I think). Or, use an Eyemo. They started making those in 1925. The design didn't change until the late 70s, early 80s. And they used a ton of those things for shooting newsreel stuff back then, and into the war years (WW2, Korea, Vietnam). On the downside, 35mm is more expensive. And you need to get it on a spool. I wish someone made an affordable rotary perf cutter, but no one does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Palmer Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 It's dead easy to convert the old Kodak spool cameras to single perf. There's no need to dismantle anything if you cover the innards with sticky tape. The unwanted claw is easily broken off after some sawing. Sprocket teeth are only brass and can be filed off then emeried smooth. See "New Life for 16mm Antiques" which is one of my 'older posts' at http://www.filmisfine.co Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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