Editing S16 Negative with 16mm Moviola Synchronizer

[Jeremy Rumas]

Hi all,

 

I'm about to edit down the negative of my movie in order to make a S16mm print(for an indie tour where music would be played live). I have already edited the entire movie digitally, with timecode. I am planning on using a 4 gang Moviola Synchronizer to keep track of frames when conforming the negative. One like this:

 

http://az413224.vo.msecnd.net/img/42333/m_42333_1.jpg

 

While setting my work area up, I'm looking at the Moviola, which I have not used yet, and I see that it looks like the inner lip of the rollers/sprockets on these will contact the film within the S16mm frame. I'm worried about scratching my negative within the S16mm frame. Anyone have experience doing this? Do I need to mill down the inner lip of the rollers(along where the 16mm soundtrack would go) in order not to scratch my S16mm negative?

 

thanks,

 

Jeremy

[Simon Wyss]

Never put a camera original on an editing apparatus such as a Moviola or a flatbed machine. Steenbeck, KEM, Prevost, Oude Delft, Schmid, whatever make, they were not made for handling negatives.

 

You keep the neg in the can until editing is complete and finished. Only copies from the neg are run on the Moviola, sound as well as picture. Then you conform the neg to the cut copy with the aid of synchronizers and bench rewinds, everything in perfect working order and lightning clean. You wear cotton gloves and have the proper tools at hand.

 

You have the right to know about the geometry of the printer(s) on which your original is being copied. That’s something important if you want to check on image steadiness. In that case the print is of course viewed with a good projector.

 

The Moviola is made for regular 16-mm. film and image. You can exchange rollers but I’m not sure whether the Super-16 image can be made visible.

[Mark Dunn]

I don't think the OP is using a Moviola, just a synchroniser made by them.

OP, if the ridges on the rollers are symmetrical then the ones opposite the sprockets will bear on the film.

Unless you A and B cut with black leader the splices will show on the print.

[Jeremy Rumas]

Thanks for the replies. I'm only using a synchronizer that was made by Moviola, like the one in the link. My edit of the movie is complete, and negative has been in the can except for transfers and some workprints. Cotton gloves, check, got em. Yeah Mark, the ridges on the rollers are symmetrical. I think I'm going to have to modify them so they don't scratch up the S16 image area.

[Gregg MacPherson]

I have a Moviola syncronizer that looks factory made for S16. The machining looks too perfect to be a mod, and it's plated. So probably they exist. May be easier to find one than to do those mods, unless of course you enjoy that.

[Simon Wyss]

Misunderstood completely, whoof!

 

For the rest, hooray, you conform a negative! Film! Splices!

[Jeremy Rumas]

Hey Simon, no worries! I appreciate the responses. So I went ahead and modified my synchronizer. Just carefully used some hand files, and it actually worked out really well. Gregg, that's interesting you have one that was factory made for S16, sounds like a rare find.