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Now for something completely different: Vision 3 50D Double 8mm


Dennis Toeppen

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Nice work!

A small critique of your technique: when you're shooting the cards, and charts, ideally, you need to get as close as possible.

A grey card should fill the entire frame.

A Gretag chart likewise."


With the former, you ideally want to get it big enough to read with a densitometer with a certain sized probe diameter.

So the physical size of the film being so small, it's best to fill the frame with a grey card, each step on a grey scale and color patches.

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Nice work!

 

A small critique of your technique: when you're shooting the cards, and charts, ideally, you need to get as close as possible.

 

A grey card should fill the entire frame.

 

A Gretag chart likewise."

 

 

With the former, you ideally want to get it big enough to read with a densitometer with a certain sized probe diameter.

 

So the physical size of the film being so small, it's best to fill the frame with a grey card, each step on a grey scale and color patches.

 

 

Thanks for the great suggestions.

 

I'm just a fumbling amatuer at this point, as you can tell. My goals were:

 

- Provide colorist with something to calibrate with

- Test three Switar lenses

- Check two cameras for registration and gate weave

- Finish two rolls of film quickly

 

What you should have seen at the beginning of each roll is a progression of lenses: 5.5mm, 13mm, 26mm. That is not apparent because I left the lens cap on the middle lens in one test. So for that test, you see too wide and too narrow. That stuff is at the beginning of the film, but the telecine operator put the film in backwards, so the beginning is at the end. That makes it even more baffling.

 

Also, I couldn't find my big Color Checker that day. I looked in all my Pelicans, my A-Minima backpack, and my big A-Minima shoulder bag. Can't figure out where it went. So I had to use that silly little pocket thing.

 

Anyhow, that's my recipe for shooting a mediocre test film, but one which tells me if the camera has gate weave or registration problems. :-)

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It's satisfactory, but you want to photograph the checker at the same physical size on 8mm film as you do on 35mm film. It should get bigger and bigger the smaller the format you get.

It is not just for video correction, it is so you can check the processing and color and exposure on a light box as well, or with a densitometer at the lab.

The size of the aperture on the densitometer is maybe 1/4 to 3/8" (7-10 mm) in diameter.

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It's satisfactory, but you want to photograph the checker at the same physical size on 8mm film as you do on 35mm film. It should get bigger and bigger the smaller the format you get.

 

 

Oh, that is very useful information. I hadn't thought of that. It sounds like I need multiple shots to get color checker squares the correct size on the film.

 

Thanks!

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 9 months later...

The sprocket holes don't move. Neither does the picture, yet I'm pretty sure no stabilization was applied. That is really something to crow about.

Color negative goes into a digital work flow. However, reversal may be projected as film. I have a movie film contact printer, and I know a pro who has two. I want to try to make prints to work on and to project. There was a contact printing machine that sold receiently for a high amount, so someone else may be wanting to print 8mm films, too. My experiments will begin soon.

Edited by Michael Carter
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We've been doing Double 8mm scans on our ScanStation recently - you don't need to slit the film, and we can do 4k scans of the film frame itself. That saves a fair bit of money because you can process the film wherever you'd normally process 16mm, without having to deal with someone who has a mechanical slitter. We just ask that you have your lab keep each reel separate, so that we can scan both sides and keep them together (longer, consolidated reels require editing after the scan to get the two halves of each reel back together.

 

-perry

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