Nick Collingwood Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 Just did an awesome workshop in NYC with MONO NO AWARE where through the magic of cross processing, we got color reversal from 500T! There's a small amount of info online about it but essentially we shot 500T rolls on Super 8 cameras that only meter up to 160T and without the daylight filter engaged, shot the film. So basically exposing it about 1 2/3 stop over what it normally should be. Apparently this is necessary to get the right exposure for this unorthodox method. Then we developed the film in a LOMO tank with a Tetenal E6 kit and some adjusted times. Then once it was developed, we put the film in a tray with some fresh water and photoflow and using a sponge, gently scrubbed the film to remove the remjet backing. Then dried it and projected it! The film ends up with yellow highlights and blue shadows but it looks pretty solid! In actual projection, it looks better because your mind tends to disregard the bizarre colors especially given the yellow hue of most projectors bulbs anyways. So check it out! It's fun to know there is a way to get color reversal other than the Agfachrome 200D and hopefully the Film Ferrania whenever that materializes. Also that's yours truly at 9:05. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiliam Cardoza Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 Mad props! turned to reversal that's cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy McLennan Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 thanks for this post. my questions are: relative to: "E6 kit and some adjusted times" what times? At 105F? Then: "put the film in a tray with some fresh water and photoflow and using a sponge, gently scrubbed the film to remove the remjet backing" Both sides, or which side? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Dunn Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 The rem-jet is on the base side. Otherwise it would get in the way of the image somewhat. You would want to avoid the emulsion side for fear of scratching it in its wet, delicate state. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Collingwood Posted July 26, 2016 Author Share Posted July 26, 2016 thanks for this post. my questions are: relative to: "E6 kit and some adjusted times" what times? At 105F? Then: "put the film in a tray with some fresh water and photoflow and using a sponge, gently scrubbed the film to remove the remjet backing" Both sides, or which side? thanks Wash - 5 min warm water 1D - 115° 8:30 min Rinse - 5 min warm water 2D - 112° 7 min Rinse - 5 min warm water Blix - 115° 7min Rinse - 2 min cold water Remove remjet backing Rinse - 20 minutes cold water Add drop of Photo Flo Dry. That's what we used for those rolls. So you should get a result. But they stressed that temps are very important, down to the degree. So keep that in mind. You can actually see a little of the workshop around 5:00 in the film. I haven't tried all this myself at home yet but want to soon! You would want to avoid the emulsion side for fear of scratching it in its wet, delicate state. Ya we just did ran it through a soft wet sponge pinched (with our fingers) around both sides in a large tray of water. Not ideal and you can see a few emulsion scratches where the bright purple is but for the sake of the workshop, it was fine. They recommended using two reels and rolling it back and forth between them with a sponge in the middle. Almost like a Morse tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Schilling Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 Very cool, i like the look. Wish I could see it projected. None of it looks fake because of course none of it is, but funny how some shots have these hues and inherent effects from the process that so many digital apps try to emulate, but end up looking cheesy and videoish. Yet this is not your typical super 8. Thanks for sharing- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy McLennan Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 Thanks Nick for that info many moons ago. Got back at it and have good results with 50D and 250D (double 8mm, super 8 and 16mm which makes sense since it's the same film), overexposed about 1 stop and not overdeveloped (too hot and/or too long made highlights too clear and therefore too orange). Best for me was close to normal E-6 kit times and temps. Bucket processing (two litres of liquid in each bucket): tap water soak 100F 5min, 1st dev 100F 7min, rinse one minute in each of two buckets (room temp or higher), colour dev 100F 7min, rinse two buckets, room light can be on now, blix 100F 7min (may not need that long; it's done when the unexposed leader and edges are clear - well orangy clear which is as "clear" as it gets). Most was a nice subtle turquoise tint in white or blue or highlights, some was underexposed (day-for-night look) so may have needed another minute or few degrees more in 1st dev. Hopefully I'll get to flatbed scan then post some images here. I know that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy McLennan Posted July 23, 2018 Share Posted July 23, 2018 Forgot to mention: remjet removal is finished by passing the film between any two rinse buckets, squeezing it between a folded cloth/sponge. Three or four passes back and forth. And the last wash I did in a bucket under the tap: fill, swish, dump, repeat a few times. 30 seconds in a room temperature tap water bucket which has a drop or two of Photo Flo in it. Hang to dry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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