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Arriflex cameras


Dave Scott

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Hi Jon,

 

Some later IICs (IIC/B) came with 2 Standard mounts and 1 Bayonet mount (like the 16SB). There's actually a couple up on eBay at the moment:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARRIFLEX-35II-C-C-B-w-BAYO-MT-RUNNING-OUT-OF-THE-BOX-ARRI-35-/252532647126?hash=item3acc1e64d6:g:Z6UAAOSw41xXOuj~

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-ARRIFLEX-IIC-35mm-FILM-CAMERA-MOUNT-ARRI-EMS-fast-shipping-/272387706863?hash=item3f6b928fef:g:bRMAAOSwDuJWzFlS

 

A 2C/B would allow for a great variety of lenses in both Standard and Bayonet mount, cheaper than PL lenses and more cine friendly than Nikons.

 

Typical prime lenses for IICs would have been by Cooke, Zeiss, Schneider, Astro Berlin, Angenieux, Kinoptik, Kilfit and others. Zooms were by Angenieux, Cooke, Zoomar. Kubrick had Cookes and a 9.8mm Kinoptik for his IIC I believe.

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Ah, great information. Thanks. This is a great website. What about the Arri III. I see that the IIC has a separate motor underneath but where is the motor on a III? Is it a separate item needed to be attached via a flat plate, or is it inside the body? The reason I ask is that the ebay ads I've seen have been quiet on this point.

 

Also, going back to the IIC. Is a mirror with a "small chip in the corner, just visible in the viewfinder but not seen on film" a big problem, or no problem at all?

Edited by Jon O'Brien
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A small chip in the corner of the mirror shouldn't be a problem. At worst a little distracting in the viewfinder, but it won't affect the film.

 

The 35III has its motor built in. A lot of them come with a Cinematography Electronics crystal high speed base, but it's not essential for running the camera.

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  • 7 months later...

Hi!

I'm just new on the forum, and I'm looking for some advice about this Schenider:

http://www.ebay.com/...mEAAOSw5UZY~jmp

I have an SR1 modified to super 16mm with PL mount.....I was wondering if I can put the adapter Arri Std to PL and use it with the SR1.....I've been reading that some models doesn't fit on the SR1, I hope this ones will fit.....anyone can help me please?

on the other hand I'll apreciate some advice of the best budget lens for this camera

Cheers from Bolivia

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You could put an ARRI Standard to PL mount adapter on those and use them with your 16SR. Not sure the 16mm will cover Super 16, but I believe the 25mm and the 50mm should be no problem. Those old Schneider lenses aren't the sharpest or highest contrast, but that price is pretty low and they will make images for you.

 

Best,

-Tim

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You could put an ARRI Standard to PL mount adapter on those and use them with your 16SR. Not sure the 16mm will cover Super 16, but I believe the 25mm and the 50mm should be no problem. Those old Schneider lenses aren't the sharpest or highest contrast, but that price is pretty low and they will make images for you.

 

Best,

-Tim

Thank you very much Tim!

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You could put an ARRI Standard to PL mount adapter on those and use them with your 16SR. Not sure the 16mm will cover Super 16, but I believe the 25mm and the 50mm should be no problem. Those old Schneider lenses aren't the sharpest or highest contrast, but that price is pretty low and they will make images for you.

 

Best,

-Tim

 

i know certain Schneiders don't fit an SR, I've personally encountered a 2/16 and 2/25 that didn't fit an SR2, but I know later versions were modified and will fit. To confuse matters there are also 35mm versions of certain focal lengths that will fit an SR. I don't know about the 1.9/16 and 1.5/25 in that eBay listing or whether they will work. Do you know for sure that those lenses will fit an SR, Tim?

 

It would be great to have some indication of which Schneiders will work on post-16S Arris. The only solid info I have is that 1.8/10 Schneiders from serial number 9861936 on (around 1967) will work, but older ones won't.

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I never ran across one of those little Schneiders that didn't fit my 16SR, but I didn't deal with Schneider lenses much so there could have been versions that wouldn't have fit. I mostly used Cooke Kinetal and Zeiss.

 

Best,

-Tim

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  • 2 weeks later...

Since we are in the "Digital Age" is there a list of active technicians that service or CLA Arriflex cameras like the IIB/C and BL 3/4 ?

 

I myself own an ARRIFLEX IIC. I was wondering what type of screws can be used to screw in the motor. I have a few motors but I am missing a set of 4 screws to mount the pistol grip, I do have a few different types of motors but would like to know if there is a screw type that I used to mount one of my pistols grips.

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I haven't got one in front of me to check, but it will be metric, something like a 3 or 4mm cheese head machine screw from memory, not too long. A machine shop or rental house might help you out.

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The screws that I have for my Arri 3C pistol grip are 3mm.

 

Depending on where you are located, I think you should be able to find a Arri 2C technician.

 

I take my 3C and Moviecam SL to Jorge Diaz-Amador at Cinematechnic in LA: http://cinematechnic.com/contact-cinematechnic

 

I don't think Jorge works on Arri BLs. So maybe try Visual Products: http://www.visualproducts.com/contactus.asp

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Thank you so much its so cool to finally be in contact with people who own, shoot and operate arriflex cameras. @Satuski - your ARRI IIIC is marvelous. Such a cool camera. I will upload some pictures of my Arriflex cameras which I have yet to shoot on :(

 

I need lenses and a better job :D but anyway Jorge Diaz- Amador's website is great as is Dom's ( i love your take downs, please make some videos ! ;D )

 

I would truly love it if any camera tech made like an in-depth tutorial on how to fully disassembly and take care of their Arriflex IIC. I wouldn't mind paying either for access to the videos. Perhaps that can be a thing ;P

 

What are some or all the tools needed or tools one should have if they own and operate a camera, say specially an Arriflex IIC

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Someone, maybe ARRI themselves, made a service manual for the Arriflex IIC. You used to be able to find them on eBay all the time (this was back in like 2006). But I would check around, there's got to be a few of them out there floating around somewhere.

 

Best,

-Tim

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"I would truly love it if any camera tech made like an in-depth tutorial on how to fully disassembly and take care of their Arriflex IIC. I wouldn't mind paying either for access to the videos. Perhaps that can be a thing ;P "

 

There are motion picture dealer websites like Visual Products that has every manual in PDF format you can imagine for all the classic 35mm movie cameras. And for the new ARRI movie cameras ARRI has downloadable manuals and brochures. I keep a a PDF copy of my ARRI 2C 2 Perf Techniscope and ARRI 235 Techniscope.

 

http://www.visualproducts.com/productInfo02.asp?ID=137

Edited by Rob Guerrero
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I would truly love it if any camera tech made like an in-depth tutorial on how to fully disassembly and take care of their Arriflex IIC.

 

Do you think we camera techs want to kill our business? A bit too much of an asking

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I did a pretty in-depth tutorial on servicing a IIC on my cinetinker site, not sure what more anyone would want to know. The service manual doesn't tell you much more, in some cases it tells you less.

 

I chose a photo and text format because I think it's much easier to follow than a video where you have to hunt around for the bit you want to watch or listen to.

 

There's always a limit to how much you can pass on because it requires a certain base knowledge and experience in mechanics, and often specific tools and jigs that a lay person won't have access to. But the Arriflex II cameras are fairly simple, even if they have very fine tolerances. Most assemblies are pinned, rather than adjustable like on all later Arriflex models, so that makes it easier for non-technicians. If the camera hasn't been contaminated, a basic clean and lubrication can be done without much disassembly. You'd just need a soft brush, some good screwdrivers, cotton buds and maybe some isopropyl alcohol along with the specified lubricants (which are listed on my site).

 

For a more thorough overhaul you really start to need some of the many, many tools and instuments a camera tech would own, starting with a depth gauge with 52.00mm cylinder and backing plate to measure the flange depth, and ideally a collimator to measure optical distances that can't be physically measured like the ground glass depth reflected off the mirror. Because things are pinned the settings are likely to remain in place when reassembled, but it only takes a hair to get caught or a slight misalignment to throw things off. And of course if a camera is not right in the first place, it will need adjustment or repair. Which usually requires not just tools but experience.

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  • 3 months later...

I love it when folks say the BL can be used on the shoulder, yes when you are young, but I swear it has gained so much weight I cant barely put it on the tripod now. If I was to have to pick a single film camera I would get a BL4, I sold mine and have a single BL left but I prefer the BL4. I have 35IIC and 35-3 and I must say the 35-3 is nicer, but even so if I had to be limited to 2 cameras I would go with a 35-IIC and a BL4. Avoid the 35-IIA unless you want it for historic reasons.

 

I have to say Dom has done a fantastic essay on the care and cleaning of the 35-II that everyone that wants one or owns one should review.

Edited by James Jeffrey Cotter
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  • 1 year later...
  • 11 months later...

Thanks for the interest in my work, and hello to Satsuki and Tyler. Hang in there guys, I know it's tough now.

I can still service film cameras, and I still have all my tools, but I am limiting service to the cameras I really know well: The ARRI 16SR 1-2-3-3A series, 35IIC 35IIIC, 35-3. I can also do basic service on the Moviecam cameras, but not a major overhaul.

I do not work on the ARRI 16S, 16M or 16BL, or the 35BL (other than basic things such as FFD calibration), or anything non-ARRI with the exception of Moviecam.

I have relocated to Portland, ME. My current area of focus is lens testing equipment (collimators), and prototyping optical products.

I am willing to continue doing the film camera service as long as there is sufficient demand. Ever since Clairmont Camera closed down I have seen much less demand so if the trend continues I may not be able to continue.

Those of you that want to keep film alive: Resist the tendency toward commoditization. Just because you can get brand new made-in-China gear cheap and it is the same (so you can buy from the cheapest seller), that model does not translate at all to something so unique and specialized as film cameras.

If you don't support the few of us that are still doing this work, or if all the work goes to one company or person, it won't take much to kill the whole ecosystem off entirely.

 

 

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  • 9 months later...

Hello all,

I wasn't sure whether to create a new topic for this—I know that some message boards look down on that—but I have a question relating to the Arriflex 35 III:

I need a power source for it. Is it as simple as getting a battery with the right specs and fix it with the right 4-Pin connector?

The original manual calls for a 12V / 7Ah NC battery.

There are two battery 4-pin sockets on the camera one on the baseplate and one on the camera itself. I would like to power it only through the baseplate.

Ideally (and I cannot stress enough how little I know about some of these technical issues) I could connect the gold-mount anton bauer batteries I already own and craft some sort of D-Tap to 4-Pin cable. Is that even possible?

 

Your input will be greatly appreciated!

Screen Shot 2021-01-14 at 04.59.13.png

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I use this battery on my 35iii and it works fine. It is also quite lightweight. 

https://www.bescor.com/product-page/fp12vatm

I was told that 14.8v gold mount batteries are fine as well and that a few extra volts would not harm the camera. After all the voltage will drop gradually as the battery runs down. But, I didn't want to take the chance and went with 12v as recommended. It is easier to hook to anything. A gold mount plate would entail more rigging to find a place to mount it. 

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Hi Dennis, I would also recommend either the CINE 60 16.8V battery belt or a CEI power supply, both worked flawlessly on my old ARRI IIB 2-perf Techniscope movie camera on the IIC Cinematography electonics (CE) motor base which I highly recommend . The extra voltage will be perfectly fine on your ARRI III especially on the III CE motor and give you more torque for 400 ft  mags. I would not go over 16.8V though unless you are running high speed 120 FPS on the ARRI III  in which case you will need double the voltage. Both the battery belt and power supply are very rare and hard to find, they both connect perfectly  to the 4 pin XLR cable. 

CBE7D4B1-5888-418E-ACAA-EE4DB2808BB1.jpeg

Edited by Rob Guerrero
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On 1/14/2021 at 10:03 PM, Dennis Riebenstahl said:

Perfect!

That’s what I was looking for. Thank you so much, Raymond!

For how long can you run the camera on one charge?

EDIT: By my calculation a bit over three hours total running time? (@24fps)

Very tough for me to tell Dennis. I was never in a situation where the battery lost anywhere near all its charge for my purposes. I doubt that it's 3 hours though. That's a whole lot of film!!

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/15/2021 at 6:06 AM, Raymond Zananiri said:

I use this battery on my 35iii and it works fine. It is also quite lightweight. 

https://www.bescor.com/product-page/fp12vatm

[...]

Unfortunately, Bescor doesn’t ship to Germany and I can’t find the same setup here.

But I bought a D-Tap to 4-Pin XLR cable and I’m using my 14.4V Anton Bauer batteries for now. The camera runs very well at all speeds, but of course it’s quite a bit of added weight.

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