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Anamorphic immataiton for the Sony F3


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Hi Everyone,

 

I am a beginner Director of Photography and I'm still learning the camera side to things as a DOP. I'm much stronger on the lighting side than the camera side and need a little advise. I'm shooting a science-fiction story in the near future and I've done some research on lens and how to sell the Sci-fi look, and the thing that keeps popping up is Anamorphic lens.

 

I have little understanding of how Anamorphic lenses work and will be shooting this project on the Sony F3 - From what I've gathered the chip sensor can't do Anamorphic with out a converter lens, but I heard those lessen the quality and aren't the same as the real deal. I've been watching a ton of interviews of cinematographers and they say to go with a wide Anamorphic lens and shoot everything crisp - even my professors say the same. So my question is, what is a great alternative option to a Anamorphic lens for the Sony F3?

 

P.s. The lenses that come with the Camera from the school's rental house is a set of prime lenes (35mm, 50mm, 85mm) and Zeiss CP.2 Lenes (18mm, 25mm, 35mm, 50mm, 85mm). We are allowed to go to other rental houses but the budget is limited to around $1500 (not confirmed yet, but roughly around that).

 

P.s.s. Also - last note - any additional tips on shooting and lighting Science-Fiction would be much appreciated.

 

All the best.

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What kind of look are you hoping to achieve with anamorphic photography? What aspects from your research have led you to the conclusion of anamorphic?

 

If it's just the aspect ratio, then you're better off shooting spherical (normal) and cropping in.

 

As a note for anamorphic, there are two types of "squeeze" factors: 2x and 1.3x. These squeeze factors are entirely dependent on the aspect ratio of the medium.

 

2x is used for a 4:3 aspect ratio sensors/film (such as 4perf film)

 

1.3x is used for 16:9 aspect ratio sensors/film.

 

That being said, using a 2x anamorphic lens on a 16:9 sensor won't work very well. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it essentially crops the image.

 

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Let's go back to the reasons for shooting anamorphic. What characteristics of anamorphic are you looking for? If it's the oval bokeh, then your only option is of course anamorphic or an adapter, but if it's these, then you can fake them in camera:

  • Streaky lens flares can be created with fishing line across the lens
  • Aspect ratio can be created by cropping the 16:9 image
  • Shallow depth of field can be created with shooting wide open

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As a general aesthetic for science fiction, what sells SciFi is YOUR interpretation of what the future will LOOK like and how it is different from today's look (this is also assuming it takes place in the future). On the whole, it's usually a cleaner, sharper, and more clear future. But, ask yourself what does the story call for? What kind of world is this SciFi tale taking place in? Light is usually decided by what is natural in the environment (ie: window light for Vermeer). What environment are these characters in? Ask these questions and the answers will help you figure out how to do it.

 

---

 

If I were you, I'd go with the CP.2's. Excellent glass and perfectly designed for the F3.

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What kind of look are you hoping to achieve with anamorphic photography? What aspects from your research have led you to the conclusion of anamorphic?

 

If it's just the aspect ratio, then you're better off shooting spherical (normal) and cropping in.

 

As a note for anamorphic, there are two types of "squeeze" factors: 2x and 1.3x. These squeeze factors are entirely dependent on the aspect ratio of the medium.

 

2x is used for a 4:3 aspect ratio sensors/film (such as 4perf film)

 

1.3x is used for 16:9 aspect ratio sensors/film.

 

That being said, using a 2x anamorphic lens on a 16:9 sensor won't work very well. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it essentially crops the image.

 

---

 

Let's go back to the reasons for shooting anamorphic. What characteristics of anamorphic are you looking for? If it's the oval bokeh, then your only option is of course anamorphic or an adapter, but if it's these, then you can fake them in camera:

  • Streaky lens flares can be created with fishing line across the lens
  • Aspect ratio can be created by cropping the 16:9 image
  • Shallow depth of field can be created with shooting wide open

---

 

As a general aesthetic for science fiction, what sells SciFi is YOUR interpretation of what the future will LOOK like and how it is different from today's look (this is also assuming it takes place in the future). On the whole, it's usually a cleaner, sharper, and more clear future. But, ask yourself what does the story call for? What kind of world is this SciFi tale taking place in? Light is usually decided by what is natural in the environment (ie: window light for Vermeer). What environment are these characters in? Ask these questions and the answers will help you figure out how to do it.

 

---

 

If I were you, I'd go with the CP.2's. Excellent glass and perfectly designed for the F3.

Hey AJ thanks for the quick and very detailed response! For the look I'm trying to achieve - especially with the Anamaorphic lens - is the expansion of the space (for a lack of a better term). It makes the setting much larger than it is and creates good spacing between the foreground and background; at least much better than a non-anamorphic lens. I also would like to achieve the oval bokeh look at least in the faces, it creates this look of surrealism in facial features. I know JJ. Abrams used it a lot in the latest Star Trek movies as well as Riddley Scott in Alien. one of the charters in this tale is a synthetic android and i wanted to recreate that look on the character.

 

But you are right about the 2x squeeze on a 16:9 censor, you basically end up having to chop off the sides of your frame.

 

As for your tips, I think they're really solid advice. I'm pretty sure i'll be going the CP.2's and going with a wide open lens and then crop the 16:9 image in post. But I did not know the one about the fishing line, it sounds pretty cool and will have to try doing that in an upcoming camera test.

 

Thanks again for all your tips and Advice, really appreciate it.

 

All the best,

- Ry

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