Julien Fallecker Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 hello, I would like to have your advice to develop the N74 400 asa in super 8 not with the D96 but rather the d76 or other photo developer ... thank you ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Simon Wyss Posted October 23, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted October 23, 2017 Je dirais huit minutes à 20 degrés Celsius, agitation continue. Try out, experiment, take notes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julien Fallecker Posted October 24, 2017 Author Share Posted October 24, 2017 Thank you ! Merci Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julien Fallecker Posted October 24, 2017 Author Share Posted October 24, 2017 do you think the d76 is a good idea or should I use something else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Simon Wyss Posted October 24, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted October 24, 2017 Kodak’s D-76 (published in 1927) is one of many classic Metol-hydroquinone developers. Metol got more or less replaced by Phenidone due to its toxicity. There are so many formulae and reducing agents around now that it is all up to you to find out what suits you best. D-76 or ID-11 (identical) have been used for thousands of films, you can’t go wrong with it. Don’t worry so much, everything is fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Aapo Lettinen Posted October 24, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted October 24, 2017 I personally mix my own developers for tests, for example a D76 style developer with the hydroquinone substituted with Vitamin C . This is especially because I need varying quantities at a time and the raw chemicals are easier to store than working solutions. you have to have a good source for raw developing chemicals of course. I also use hydroquinone on different self mixed formulas but are more vitaminC oriented generally. generally you need for a developer, depending on the recipe: sulphites (wine store sulphites can be used for example, it is cheap if you can find the right source) , vitaminC (relatively cheap if bought in larger quantities. I bought a 400g package from eBay for my tests, did not cost much, maybe 15-20e or so) . Methol and hydroquinone can be purchased from a photo supply store or a b/w lab who wants to sell you some. compare the prices, they are not very expensive chemicals but for example some eBay sellers are asking 10x the normal price or more per gram... You will also need either Sodium Carbonate or Borax for pH adjustment. some formulas may require a small amount of Sodium or Potassium Bromide as well (photo supplier or b/w lab) . and some require Sodium Thiosulphate as well. phenidone is generally relatively expensive compared to Methol etc. older chemicals, if you want to use phenidone in larger batches I suggest using x-tol or similar factory made phenidone developer. technically you can make film developer from household items; food additives and such. for example Coffenol: instant coffee, crystal cleaning soda, vitaminC tablets... Or you can make Rodinal style developer from expired pain killers and lye based drain cleaner... the fixer is more economical to purchase as a factory made solution, ammonium thiosulphate is not economical to purchase in small quantities compared to factory mixed fixing solutions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Aapo Lettinen Posted October 24, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted October 24, 2017 technically you can make film developer from household items; food additives and such. for example Coffenol: instant coffee, crystal cleaning soda, vitaminC tablets... Or you can make Rodinal style developer from expired pain killers and lye based drain cleaner... for example: "250 ml Red Beetroot juice 2 teaspoons of washing soda 1 teaspoon vitamin C " http://www.caffenol.org/alternative-recipes/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Carter Posted October 28, 2017 Share Posted October 28, 2017 I found a recipe. http://www.lostlabours.co.uk/photography/formulae/developers/rev_filmotec.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julien Fallecker Posted October 28, 2017 Author Share Posted October 28, 2017 thank you but this recipe is for the reversal film UN54 while I asked for the N74 which is a negative film. but I keep it because I have some too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Aapo Lettinen Posted October 28, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted October 28, 2017 orwo films can be developed both negative and reversal. If you are intending to scan the image then negative is much easier to work with Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Carter Posted October 28, 2017 Share Posted October 28, 2017 I just finished tests of developing Kodak 7222 negative film using D-76. ORWO is supposed to be very much like it. D-19 I use on the reversal 7266. I have some ORWO film but haven't gotten to it yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julien Fallecker Posted October 29, 2017 Author Share Posted October 29, 2017 I knew that the UN 54 could be developed in both ways but you are sure that I can do the same with the N74, I have not found anything on Orwo or on the internet. According to you if I develop it in invertible how many ASA should I use it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Carter Posted October 29, 2017 Share Posted October 29, 2017 All I can relate is that I had some very old plus-X negative that I reversed perfectly. I always start with a bracketed exposure strip that I develop in a way that worked on another film and go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Aapo Lettinen Posted October 30, 2017 Premium Member Share Posted October 30, 2017 I knew that the UN 54 could be developed in both ways but you are sure that I can do the same with the N74, I have not found anything on Orwo or on the internet. According to you if I develop it in invertible how many ASA should I use it? most B/W negatives can be developed reversal even if they are not advertised to be capable for that. you need to test the developer first though, if using a very heavy process (like the one on Ilford papers) you may experience emulsion separation or other damage (excessive swelling etc) . Some reversal films, for example Fomapan reversal, cannot be developed as negative because of the silver "remjet" backing of the factory fresh film but some others can be alternatively developed as negative even if the stock is advertised as reversal film. negative vs. reversal stocks are not fully similar in how they handle exposure when used with alternative process (negative for reversal, reversal for negative) because the reversal stock normally is optimised for reversal processing (different density image in 1st developing compared to similar negative film) but as said can be done on most films as long as you don't use totally wrong formulas on reversal process which damages the emulsion irrecoverably Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julien Fallecker Posted October 31, 2017 Author Share Posted October 31, 2017 in the lab where I am we devellope with C4 and indeed I look we can develloper negatives too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antonio Bunt Posted November 7, 2017 Share Posted November 7, 2017 How are you processing the film? Lomo tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julien Fallecker Posted November 8, 2017 Author Share Posted November 8, 2017 In a participative lab with a spire but no lomo tank . Why ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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