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Flagging Tips?


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Got a gig that will require a lot of soft street light outside. My question doesn't really relate to our lighting setup but more a question regarding the science and possibilities of controlling light.

 

So we have 2 Arri M40's each separately going through 8 x 8 diffusion frames right across the road from each other, pointing in roughly the same direction, except one is directed more across the road and one is pointing more down the road, any way long story short we need to create more separation and mood to the scene and have many 4 x 4 floppy's and 2 x 6 cutters. Since a substantial amount of light is needed to be lost from one side of the diffusion frame and the fact that the more diffused a source is the harder it is to dramatically cut it, is there a better way besides basic flagging to control extremely flooded light from a big diffusion frame?

 

Thanks

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LCR grids, "fabric egg crates", lighttools grids - Most grip houses will carry the usual sizes like 8x8, kinda like an instant directionality to your 8x without adding much depth (about 2-3"). The angles tend to be relatively accurate if you're flying the frame flat like a door, butterfly it tends to get a little tighter pattern at the edges as the grid wants to slump in the middle. Placing flags in front of that directional 8x can further help separate certain areas, so you get the full "bang" of the frame but with clever placement of flags you can only "show" parts of it at a time using parallax.

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It depends on how much room you have between the source and the edge of frame. Egg crates can work and would be easiest, but know that your output will reduced. Also make sure the degree of the eggcrate will create the desired effect. An alternative would be if you have the room for a 12x8 or even better a 16x8 sider of black that will probably the trick as long as that doesn't enter frame. Common misconception that a sider of the same size as the diffusion will be able to fully control the spill. It all depends on the angle, some times you need a sider twice as big as the diff frame to control it.

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Yes you would still need flags too..with the grid..Im not saying that.. but it does help alot..(we had a ton of space).. compared to without ..with big enough lights... the amount of light being cut by the grid was minimal .. thats really only a concern with small lights..

 

Yes I guess Hex maybe is less prone to sagging.. must be some reason they went with that design.. it was pretty firmly clamped onto its own frame about 10cm deep.. the whole thing on wheels.. genius..

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