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Canon Scoopic 16 (Original) Meter Question


Ryan Fleet

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Just recently I picked up an old Grey model Canon Scoopic. I re-celled the batteries and now I'm checking the functions of the camera to see what works.

 

The battery check on the camera reads properly but when I switch to auto exposure mode and half press the shutter the meter inside the viewfinder doesn't move no matter how bright or dark the object is. Also, when I switch to manual mode and move the aperture from 1.6 to 22 the viewfinder doesn't lose any light its just as easy to see through the viewfinder at 1.6 as it is at 22. With nothing working, I set it to manual and look down the lens barrel to see if I can see the aperture opening or closing inside the lens when I move from 1.6 to 22 but nothing looks like its moving in there either.

 

Anyone who has used a Canon Scoopic original or M, MN, MS ever run into this problem?

 

I'm new to this camera system and 16mm but it seems that something is wrong with my aperture not engaging.

 

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You should notice the viewfinder getting darker or brighter as you adjust the aperture. You won't see blades or anything like that but it will get darker or lighter. Sometimes I find myself opening it up all the way to focus then putting it back to where it should be although this can be dangerous if you forget to set it back.

 

It could be some sort of disconnection between the aperture ring (that's not on the actual lens but on the smaller meter lens) and the aperture. You should see a difference as you manually move it. You can still shoot a test roll and make notes of the aperture as you shoot to see if it's really changing or not.

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Will, unfortunately manually moving the aperture shows no difference in the viewfinder brightness. It's easy to see and focus at F22 just like at F1.6 so there is definitely a problem like you suggested.

 

Before shooting a test roll I think I'm going to give Barry at super16inc a call, especially since I just realized he is only an hour away from my hometown. I'll see what the cost is to fix and get a CLA for the camera. After further messing with the camera I just got the auto aperture to work and manually moving the aperture I can now see the blades inside the lens opening and closing so I know they are working but still the viewfinder brightness stays the same through all stops.

 

I rather be putting money into repairing a Scoopic 16M, MN, or MS instead of this Grey one but I can't even find one of those cameras for sale.

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It could be that the original Scoopic's viewfinder isn't affected by the change in aperture but I doubt it...I see I substantial difference in brightness as aperture opens and closes on the MS...

 

If you get it to work it will be a great camera to have even as a backup.

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I spoke with Bernie from super16 today and he was pretty sure that the viewfinder doesnt loose light in the original scoopic. But he will check it out while he is doing the CLA for the camera.

 

Ill be sending it out to him on Monday with a 2-3 week turn around as long as nothing else is wrong with it. Im pretty excited to get the camera back and run some film through it.

 

Thanks for your all your help and feedback

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  • 11 months later...

Hi Ryan,

How did this work out. I got my old Scoopic 16 (not an MS) re-celled and am having exactly the same problem with the exposure control. I can't remember from when I used to shoot it if the viewfinder changed with f-stop setting. It's not happening now, and I wonder if I can set accurate f-stops and shoot using a light meter.

Best,

Robert

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I just checked one old Scoopic (gray) that I have and I didn't see any difference when I changed the aperture. It's an old camera that I haven't tested, so it may be stuck as well, but I wen't from wide open to f22 and I didn't noticed any change.

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  • 1 month later...

Robert,

Sorry, just seeing this now. 

The Canon Scoopic original model viewfinder does NOT loose light when you change the aperture. Good news is, I'm sure everything in your camera is in working order.

Here is a test I did with my Canon Scoopic original model. 

 

 

Edited by Ryan Fleet
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  • 1 year later...
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At f/11 and beyond your depth of field is quite deep, which can make it hard to judge when focus is best through the viewfinder because everything looks in focus. Though that also means you don't have to worry about focus so much and can just set the lens to a rough distance. But try using ND filters with a more open stop - you'll need to be more accurate, but the shallower depth of field will make judging when it's sharp easier.

Use the slowest speed film for bright daylight shots so you don't have to stop down as much.

Wear sunglasses when not filming to keep your eye adjusted for the viewfinder.

Use manual aperture and focus with the aperture wide open before stopping down for the shot. 

Maybe upgrade the eyecup or add a chamois cover so your eye is better protected?

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