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The Krasnogorsk K3


danny bartle

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Hello all,

 

I'm contemplating buying a Krasnogorsk K3 16mm camera as I'm finding it hard to buy a Bolex on Ebay at a reasonable price without being sniped out at the last second.

 

I've used the Bolex before & think they're a great camera but could anyone give me advice on the K3, like the reliability, what problems to look out for (i've heard they have some common problems), cost, where is a good place to buy etc. Also how would they compare to the Bolex in terms of reliability, features, image quality etc.

 

Thanks to all who reply....

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I think the k3 has a sort of charm.

 

The camera is very simple to thread, no bells and whistles.

 

You can buy one on ebay for like $200. I like them, but it is a fairly primitive camera. I know it is prone to loosing it's loop, but I have never had a problem with them.

 

The lens is a little contrasty, not like a good contrast, but a hard to describe contrast.

 

The other thing is the footage counter is actually a meter counter, and lens focus is in meters also.

 

 

Kevin Zanit

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Lots of info on the Krasnogorsk-3 at NCS Products.

 

If you can't stand the sniping at eBay, check out some of the camera websites that sell Bolex cameras and equipment. The prices may be higher, but you can often be assured of getting a quality product, (rather than something found in the attic or at a garage sale).

 

Caveat emptor!

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Firstly thanks for the replies. Kevin you said the lens is a bit contrasty but I wouldn't use the standard lens much & would buy something along the lines of a Pentax 300mm so that I can zoom right in on the action.

 

I see on Ebay they're about US$200ish but from the websites they range from US$700 & above.

 

I see NCS products have the Super 16 gate for the K3 (which I would definetely be interested in), has anyone used the Super 16 gate? Reel Trading also do an upgrade for US$365, is this necessary & has anyone done this?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just bought a K3 a couple of weeks ago. Haven't shot with it yet. I'm going to try this weeekend. Have you bought one yet? I got a roll of color reversal with it. And a projector. I'm thinking about doing a jerryrig telecine with the projector and a hi8 camera until I become more dedicated. Anyone have any advice for a first time shooter? I am a complete newbie. I used to work in a motion picture developing plant but never shot film.

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actually I ended up buying a RX5 Bolex instead. I've heard mixed reports on the K3 so I decided to spend the extra & buy a RX5 (US$600). I will also be modifying it to Super 16.

 

Although with the low price of the K3 its worth buying one just to try out.

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I got a crazy deal on the camera. $90 for the camera with a free $35 roll of color reversal in the camera with prepaid development.

 

I got a questions for ya perth... I've never shot film before. What should I be looking for? I'm thinking that I'll make a slate out of white paper and a sharpie. On it, I'll write what settings the camera is on each time I shoot. Then I'll shoot the slate. I literally have no idea what I'm doing when I shoot. Do you have any advice for me? i.e. what f-stops are good for what lights, speed of film, etc.?

 

Any words of wisdom would be well received.

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Daniel,

 

I'm the last person you'd wanna ask about 16mm. I've been shooting video & super 8 for the past couple years & have only just got the bug to shoot 16mm, total novice here (although it helps that I work at a camera repairer)

 

I'm sure others on here will be able to help.

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Actually, there is something you could help me with. I'm getting ready to buy a tripod for two of my cameras. One is a Hi 8 video camera. The other is the K3. Any suggestions for one you may have used? I've been looking at the big chains. Wanted something cheap but I'm willing to pay more if it's worth it in the long run.

 

Also, what kind of video projects have you done? What platform and program do you edit on?

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I use a Manfrotto 055legs/501 fluid head, I think the head can handle about 6kilos in weight. Does the job well for what I do & isn't overly heavy. You'll probably find the K3 has a larger tripod thread than most video cameras so make the tripod head you use can accomodate it.

 

I pretty much just shoot surfing footage. Haven't done any projects except for about 5 weddings with my Sony PDX10P. I'm looking at shooting some 16mm on those perfect surf days this year as much as I can but mostly shoot video. I'm looking to team up & meet more 16mm film shooters to do some sort of short film.

 

I'm not much of an editor, I use PC with Premiere 6.0. I know the basics & am pretty good with computers. If I had better PC & hardware/software I could do some good editing but sitting in front of computers gets me a bit depressed at times. I love going out in the sun all day long shooting good surfers, thats my ideal thing...

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The 501 head is okay but for a little more money the 503 is a lot smoother. Bogen/Manfrotto packages these heads with various tripod configuartions. I'd go with a set of adjustable sticks with a ground spreader and ball leveling plate for the head. They sell this with a tripod bag for about $550US.

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I bought a K-3 at the begining of the semester, I've used it on one project so far and the first roll of film came back beautiful, the next four came back with no diffined frame lines makeing the images bleed together, creating a foggy look.

 

This isn't what I was going for and was really upset. Then I found out about the lost loop thing. What causes this and how can I fix it? I like the camera and would like to try to repair and keep it. Does any one out there know how to help me? Matt-

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The lost loop is due to user error.

 

It means you did not thread the camera properly. A few things can cause this:

 

- The rollers that cover the main sprocket are not properly engaged.

- The claw is not set properly

- Or you forgot to put the pressure plate back

 

Just keep practicing threading the camera. Run it with the cover off so you can watch it. I like to set the loop just slightly (like 1 or 2 perfs) smaller than the loop formers.

 

 

Kevin Zanit

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  • 4 months later...

Whats the claw on the K-3??

 

Afew people say they have trouble with the camera, im just waiting for mine to arrive so i will see for myself.

 

I read that you can use 35mm SLR lenses with the K3. What lenses would you suggest i buy?

 

Is there any difference in image quality when using SLR lenses??

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After reading these posts I am seriously considering buying one of these Russkie badboys... does anyone know any websites that have footage shot with one of these? I managed to find one super tiny quicktime movie that was a time lapse piece, so it didn't really give a good indication of the quality of the camera. For around 200 bones I wouldn't expect too much. Does anyone know if it compare at least to the Canon Scoopic? I shot a video with the scoopic and was pretty impressed with the totally 1970's feel it added to the project If you are interested, you can check it out here: http://www.myspace.com/satisfaction

 

Thanks in advance for any advice!

-Robert

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K3 Camera, a tasty purchase. I have used mine on two projects, as B-Camera for a Pana Elaine and again as B-Camera for a SR3 Advanced. The results were really, really good. I could intercut the footage (which had been telecined, mind you, not projected) and there was little or no decernable difference. I'm sure it would have been different on the big screen, but I was never going for projection.

 

Considering that I paid $178 for my K3 (direct for the Ukraine) and the SR3 and Elaine cost $70,000 + with no support equipment, I have to call this little camera the steal of the century. Alas, nothing is without faults. The stock lens SUCKS (even though it is very fast) and the cameras are noisey as hell, but all in all, for under $200 bucks they can't be beat. Did I mention that the built-in light meter (with added battery adapter from NCS) is spot on with my $600 Sekonic 508 Cine EVERYTIME!

 

My gripes: noise, lens (and most M42's stink), the regular 16mm, run button is hard to use on tripod, and that winder always seems to run out when you are getting your best stuff.

 

What to do. Forget the "pro" upgrade the camera works great without it (unless you use it wrong). Get a Super 16 gate installed and a nikon mount for the front end (about $700). You'll have a great little Super 16 MOS for under $1,000.

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  Get a Super 16 gate installed and a nikon mount for the front end (about $700).  You'll have a great little Super 16 MOS for under $1,000.

Andrew, good to hear that these things can be good little cameras! My main concern with getting one of these would be getting my hands on a wide or semi-angle lens for it, maybe something around an 8 or so. You recommend getting the Nikon lens mount for the front end... As a still photographer, I know Nikon makes amazing lenses for their cameras, but what would you recommend for this camera? Thanks!

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Hey,

There was a long post regarding cheap upgrades for these cameras a couple of months ago in this 16mm forum. It's worth scrolling back and checking out. You should be able to upgrade one of these for way less then $700. The super 16 mod is really easy to do yourself if you have been through high school metal shop, or are at least halfway talented with your hands. Theres lots of good information in that post from various people.

The nikon mounts can be found fairly cheap, and a friend of mine told me the other day that newer Pentax bayonet mount adaptors are made to upgrade from the M42 threadmount, and they only cost about $30 or $40 bucks. Those would be fairly good inexpensive lenses compared to the stock one as well.

Some of the K3 retailers sell the 8mm Peleng lenses for these cameras, and they usualy come with an M42 thread mount, and a nikon mount adaptor. You can also find them on ebay super cheap. From what I've read they work really weird though, some sort of strange sequence to set the focus and aperature.....

I don't recommend the built in lightmeter at all though, even with the battery adapter. From what I've heard and seen, they can give some really bad readings occasionally. The money saved on the camera, is worth investing in a reliable handheld light meter. Especially if you factor in the possibillity of lost shots and wasted film.

I shot a bunch of super 16 stuff with mine just a couple of months ago, and even with the stock lens, it looked really good. It's not the best camera, but it's so rediculously cheap that it's worth playing with, and having around.

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;) Maybe it's just me but looking at the super 16 gate it looks like what thay do is just modify the standard gate. on the k3 web site thay say you get a $45 credit for giving them ur old gate.

it seems to me that its something you could try yourself.

Im not saying you should try this, its just kinda interesting.

look at the site and you will see that it's the same gate just a little wider.

 

 

 

http://www.k3camera.com/k3/k3s16mm.stm

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That's exactly whats going on. When I initially tried to get one of the gates from them, there were none available. So I just decided to try it myself. It worked out great. I have a hard time justifying the cost of purchasing their modified gate, when I was able to do the same thing at home in less then an hour. I have more detailed descriptions in the thread from a couple of months ago.

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Im getting ready to start shooting with my K3, just waiting for the film to arrive.

 

Its been said that the stock lens is bad while others claim it works well. What lenses would be better looking for? Reel Trading do a Nikon mount but is it worth it? As a novice with film i think the K3 is an excellent start, the price of the camera is minimal so you can experiment before pushing for better kit.

 

I will see how things go with my initial tests (fingers crossed) would like to look into S16 gate. Must admit it looks like you could reproduce it at home and for less. K3 cameras sell on ebay for nothing!

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