Timothy Fransky Posted September 30, 2018 Share Posted September 30, 2018 (edited) Here's a few photos of my newly acquired B&H 627, which must be the UK/Commonwealth/Euro version of the 240T. All the text is in English, French, German, and Italian(?). I'm pretty pleased with the condition. It came with the standard 20mm Super Comat lens, plus a TT&H 2.8" f2.8. They both have matching Filmo finder lenses. The 2.8 finder lens is full of small, black speckles. I don't suppose it matters terribly since it's only used for broad framing. Does anyone have any advice for running a test to see if it's working ok? I've posted the manual on my google drive for anyone looking for a copy. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ivQFdVVpNo9GoojMP2YuQPrENiAZoJUR/view?usp=drivesdk Edited September 30, 2018 by Timothy Fransky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Dom Jaeger Posted October 1, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted October 1, 2018 If you have some expired film you can run it through the camera to practice loading and see how the transport is functioning. Make sure the gate and pressure plate are clean. After a few feet have run through, take out the film and check it carefully for any scratches. Run the dummy film through a whole spring wind and check if the speed seems to slow down towards the end. Spring motors will often slow down a little, but if it slows down a lot it either the camera needs lubrication, or it's tired or worn. You can check the take-up tension by holding the take-up spindle (the bottom one that holds the spool that winds the exposed film on) while running the camera. You should be able to hold it and stop it spinning with a bit of finger pressure. It should slip smoothly, not jerkily. It needs to slip, because as the spool winds on more film, the diameter expands and it needs to turn slower. The film itself pulls on the spindle to make it slip, so it shouldn't be really stiff or jerky. If it slips too easily, the film won't be snugly wound onto the spool. Ultimately, shooting a test roll will be the best way to check how the camera and lenses are working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pavan Deep Posted October 1, 2018 Share Posted October 1, 2018 (edited) I have the B&H 627, the size and weight of the camera is very good, when fully wound it lasts a long time. I have not used the lens that came with it but have been using other c mount lenses; Pav Edited October 1, 2018 by Pavan Deep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Dunn Posted October 1, 2018 Share Posted October 1, 2018 I have the B&H 627, the size and weight of the camera is very good, when fully wound it lasts a long time. I have not used the lens that came with it but have been using other c mount lenses; Pav You're undercranking- is that intentional or is the camera running slow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pavan Deep Posted October 1, 2018 Share Posted October 1, 2018 It's the camera's speed settings they're are quite off. Pav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Fransky Posted October 1, 2018 Author Share Posted October 1, 2018 (edited) It's the camera's speed settings they're are quite off. Pav How do you determine this? I noticed there are notches on the dial to line up with another on the body. I assume those notches are closest to the noted fps. You seem to be able to set the dial anywhere you like between the notches as well, which adds to the confusion. Edited October 1, 2018 by Timothy Fransky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Fransky Posted October 1, 2018 Author Share Posted October 1, 2018 (edited) If you have some expired film you can run it through the camera to practice loading and see how the transport is functioning. Make sure the gate and pressure plate are clean. After a few feet have run through, take out the film and check it carefully for any scratches. Run the dummy film through a whole spring wind and check if the speed seems to slow down towards the end. Spring motors will often slow down a little, but if it slows down a lot it either the camera needs lubrication, or it's tired or worn. You can check the take-up tension by holding the take-up spindle (the bottom one that holds the spool that winds the exposed film on) while running the camera. You should be able to hold it and stop it spinning with a bit of finger pressure. It should slip smoothly, not jerkily. It needs to slip, because as the spool winds on more film, the diameter expands and it needs to turn slower. The film itself pulls on the spindle to make it slip, so it shouldn't be really stiff or jerky. If it slips too easily, the film won't be snugly wound onto the spool. Ultimately, shooting a test roll will be the best way to check how the camera and lenses are working. I don't have any 16mm film, dummy or otherwise just yet. That's next on the list. Fortunately it's not any more or less expensive than super 8. I'll probably start with Orwo UN54. It's the cheapest option for me. I tell a lie, I can get Kodak 3378 or 7363 for $18 per 100'. I'd just as soon avoid the sound neg tho. Edited October 1, 2018 by Timothy Fransky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Fransky Posted October 1, 2018 Author Share Posted October 1, 2018 I should also mention the camera didn't come with either 50' or 100' daylight takeup reels. If anyone has any to spare, I'll take em. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pavan Deep Posted October 1, 2018 Share Posted October 1, 2018 As for setting the speed at 24 I think the best way to ensure getting 24 is by setting speed knob in the middle aligning it to the arrow [setting mark]. As for empty spools ask your local lab. Pav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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