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Robert Ante

Ektachrome D100 with Canon 310XL, Bolex 350

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Has anybody used the new Ektachrome D100 with either the Canon 310XL or Bolex 350. I would like to to casually carry about one of these almost pocketable plastic cameras but with a cassette of Ektachrome at $50 a pop I want to be sure of what kind of results I can expect before venturing forwar. I read on one list of useable/unuseable cameras that D100 is unsuitable with these cameras, but I learned long ago to be skeptical of lists.

Shot a roll with Nizo Professional and results were very good, even hand held. A Beaulieu will be my next try. Nonetheless, I am fond the these little Canon and Bolex plastic babies.

I would appreciate any advice or comments.

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I mean super 8 is super 8. It's not like one cartridge will or won't work in a certain camera.

 

Also the Ektachrome cartridges are all sold out, so IDK where you'd find one at this juncture.

 

I personally don't like the plastic bolex cameras, they're poorly made.

 

The 4008 Beaulieu works great. It has a real reflex viewfinder with a mirror shutter, usually comes with a great lens and has a pretty nice gate for a more stable image too. It's not horribly expensive and has a great deal of support available.

 

The cheap cameras are just kinda garbage. Even my old Yashica 600 is getting long in the tooth these days and it's built like a tank. I just prefer the Beaulieu by a fair margin.

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No, Tyler, Super8 is not just Super8 that will work in all cameras. As for my question, I was thinking of using a ND filter but decided this will not work. I can just forget these cameras for D100.

 

I don't know where you get the idea that all Super8 Ektachrome is all sold out. For a brief period in December but available now. Besides, I already have a nice supply.

 

The little Bolex has a nice lens. Same with Canon 310XL. They were never meant to compete or replace a regular sized camera.

 

You are misinformed with regard to the finder and shutter systems of the Beaulieu. The relex system is a mirror, but the shutter is of the guillotine type...the only Super8 that I know of that has this kind of shutter. The replex system of the Beaulieu allows any C mount lens. Other cameras must allow for light absorbed by finder and lens.

Because ASA is set by an external dial, it is not determined by detecting notches in cassette, like almost all other cameras. Perhaps that is why you believe that all S8 cameras can use film of any speed. But not all cameras can detect all notches, although the better ones can detect more. Nizo, Leicina, Zeiss Movieflex among others. These and 4008ZM are cameras I am familiar with and use.

For me, nothing beats the ergonomics of the Nizo. Except for the off-on switch. I prefer the Beaulieu and Zeiss approach.

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No, Tyler, Super8 is not just Super8 that will work in all cameras.

I've been shooting super 8 for over 30 years. I've shot with dozens of different cameras, Kodachrome, Ektachrome, Agfachrome, Tri-8, and negative stocks. I physically own 12 working super 8 cameras including the bolex and 4008 and shoot with them on a regular basis for music videos. Never had a single issue with stocks.

 

I don't know where you get the idea that all Super8 Ektachrome is all sold out. For a brief period in December but available now. Besides, I already have a nice supply.

I order film from Kodak twice a week, nearly every week and she's told me they don't have any. She did say they were getting new shipments soon, but since that first batch was all gone, there hasn't been a single roll. So wherever you're getting it from, Kodak has no information on how to direct it's customers to that place.

 

You are misinformed with regard to the finder and shutter systems of the Beaulieu. The relex system is a mirror, but the shutter is of the guillotine type...the only Super8 that I know of that has this kind of shutter. The replex system of the Beaulieu allows any C mount lens. Other cameras must allow for light absorbed by finder and lens.

Not misinformed, I've been using the 4008 for years. It has a mirror reflex which means the viewfinder is extremely bright and there is no loss of light from a beam splitter making it a far superior camera.

 

 

Perhaps that is why you believe that all S8 cameras can use film of any speed. But not all cameras can detect all notches, although the better ones can detect more. Nizo, Leicina, Zeiss Movieflex among others. These and 4008ZM are cameras I am familiar with and use.

Where it's true the 500T and 250D negative stocks should be used with a "notchless" camera if you want a perfect exposure, we've shot with them in my Yashica and Elmo cameras, with great results. Nearly all of the cameras have the ability to automatically read 25, 50, 100 and 160 stocks because that's what Kodak made during the time of those cameras. So yea 50D, 200T, and the new 100D stock should work fine with ANY of the notched cameras.

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Well back to the situation at hand, I've shot both the new and old Ektachrome in my Canon 514XL which is similar to the 310XL and gotten great results. IMO, the new stock is a little less sensitive and would benefit from being shot at 80ASA but not a huge difference. Didn't have any issues with overexposure with an XL lens. The stock handles it ok. I shot the older E100D in my 514XL on the beach and was totally ok.

 

Attached a couple stills below from the 2K flat scan without any contrast added back in. In projection it's a bit brighter and more saturated.

 

DOYcEjb.jpg

 

6zcwfEo.jpg

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Nick, Thanks for the imput. I'll give it a try.

 

Tyler, You are correct about availability of 100D. I no longer buy directly from Kodak since I no longer get a discount and I don't need the "rush" service, I buy from various retail outlets. If one seller doesn't have it, another probably will...along with free shipping.

Not that it means anything, but I have been shooting S8 since 1971. Back then there were many cheap cameras with meters programed solely for Kodachrome, and only Kodachrome. Nizos, Beaulieus and Leicinas were very expensive. If my memory is correct, about that time my Nizo cost about $400 at Olden Camera in NYC. A Zeiss Ikon Movieflex cost almost as much as a VW bug.

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Hi everyone! I am new to super 8 and as a newbie I had a related question to this original post! I have a Canon 310XL and I have Ektachrome 100D, TriX, 50D, and 500T available on hand. I have done so many searches and watched so many videos and everyone seems to say something different about notch hacks and whether or not they are necessary. As I'm primarily a still photographer, and have had experience with over and underexposing film and the latitude of film - this super 8 stuff has me worried and spooked! haha... Do I need to worry about notch hacks? Am I overreacting? Also, I feel really dumb asking this question, but I am confused about the daylight/tungsten switch. Do you flip it to daylight if you're shooting in daylight on tungsten film? Or do I have it backwards? Thanks in advance for any tips or advice!

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1 hour ago, Erin Norwark said:

Do you flip it to daylight if you're shooting in daylight on tungsten film?

Yes. Then the filter is engaged.

Reversal films have much less latitude so need to be exposed accurately. Negative can be overexposed somewhat- in fact it may be preferable as it can suppress grain. The best option is manual exposure and an external meter.

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The new Ektachrome 100D is less sensitive and can handle overexposure quite well. In fact it's best to overexpose this stock by 1 stop. I get good results by doing this. As mentioned earlier in this thread 80 ASA is a good bet for this stock. A ND filter is a must on sunny days. Projected this stock looks amazing! 

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Shane I'd say 64-80 is the sweet spot. 1 stop is too much. I've recently shot 2 rolls, 1 at 64 and 1 at 100. The 64 looked GREAT buuuuut the highlights were a little hot. Definitely better exposure and the colors popped. Just matters if the clipping on the highlights would bother you so I'd say 80 is best. The 100 roll looked good but definitely felt a hair underexposed. The 64 will look way better than the 100 projected, for sure.

 

Erin, I wouldn't worry too much. The 310XL will expose any of these films fine on autoexposure. I'd say you may want an ND filter for E100D though as it's not ideal for SUPER bright days but I think it should be fine. As Mark said, overexposure on any of the Vision3 color negative stocks is fine and your 310XL should handle those well for the most part while on auto-exposure. So don't stress. I have a 514XL which is very similar and I get great results! In fact, I believe the stills I posted above were shot in my 514XL with no ND.

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1 hour ago, Nick Collingwood said:

Shane I'd say 64-80 is the sweet spot. 1 stop is too much. I've recently shot 2 rolls, 1 at 64 and 1 at 100. The 64 looked GREAT buuuuut the highlights were a little hot. Definitely better exposure and the colors popped. Just matters if the clipping on the highlights would bother you so I'd say 80 is best. The 100 roll looked good but definitely felt a hair underexposed. The 64 will look way better than the 100 projected, for sure.

 

Erin, I wouldn't worry too much. The 310XL will expose any of these films fine on autoexposure. I'd say you may want an ND filter for E100D though as it's not ideal for SUPER bright days but I think it should be fine. As Mark said, overexposure on any of the Vision3 color negative stocks is fine and your 310XL should handle those well for the most part while on auto-exposure. So don't stress. I have a 514XL which is very similar and I get great results! In fact, I believe the stills I posted above were shot in my 514XL with no ND.

Ok so how many stops should my ND filter be for the 100? Thanks so much for the help! Knowing how the camera will rate my film is what is confusing me. So many conflicting posts and videos on how each camera handles each cartridge based on the old pins and these newer films 🥺

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Posted (edited)
On 2/26/2019 at 2:53 PM, Nick Collingwood said:

Well back to the situation at hand, I've shot both the new and old Ektachrome in my Canon 514XL which is similar to the 310XL and gotten great results. IMO, the new stock is a little less sensitive and would benefit from being shot at 80ASA but not a huge difference. Didn't have any issues with overexposure with an XL lens. The stock handles it ok. I shot the older E100D in my 514XL on the beach and was totally ok.

 

Attached a couple stills below from the 2K flat scan without any contrast added back in. In projection it's a bit brighter and more saturated.

 

DOYcEjb.jpg

 

6zcwfEo.jpg

Nick what meter setting would I choose for Ektachrome 7294 if I wanted to shoot it at 80 ASA instead of 100 ASA? Is that only a 1/3 of a stop? So let's say I have a meter reading of 8 would I then increase halfway between 8 and 5.6? As you know I've been shooting 7294 with 1 stop more light and it seems to look fine projected. Thanks! 

PS: I just purchased a Canon 514XL and I am waiting for it to be delivered. I am excited to see how this camera handles the new 7294. 

Edited by Shane C Collins

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On 10/9/2020 at 2:20 PM, Shane C Collins said:

80 ASA instead of 100 ASA? Is that only a 1/3 of a stop? So let's say I have a meter reading of 8 would I then increase halfway between 8 and 5.6

It should really be a third of the way to f5.6.

Of course if you had a Beaulieu you could compensate more closely by adjusting the shutter angle. But it might still be tough to see the difference..

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On 9/9/2020 at 11:47 PM, Erin Norwark said:

Ok so how many stops should my ND filter be for the 100? Thanks so much for the help! Knowing how the camera will rate my film is what is confusing me. So many conflicting posts and videos on how each camera handles each cartridge based on the old pins and these newer films 🥺

Do not use an ND filter. As many (but not all) Super 8 cameras are TTL metering meaning it'll meter through what the lens is seeing. So the ND is rendered useless basically. As Shane described, you'll see what your camera meters, then open up 1/3-1/2 a stop.

On 10/9/2020 at 9:20 AM, Shane C Collins said:

Nick what meter setting would I choose for Ektachrome 7294 if I wanted to shoot it at 80 ASA instead of 100 ASA? Is that only a 1/3 of a stop? So let's say I have a meter reading of 8 would I then increase halfway between 8 and 5.6? As you know I've been shooting 7294 with 1 stop more light and it seems to look fine projected. Thanks! 

PS: I just purchased a Canon 514XL and I am waiting for it to be delivered. I am excited to see how this camera handles the new 7294. 

I think halfway is good. Technically a third but like I said, I think between 64 and 80 is the sweet spot. 64 gets a LITTLE hot and 80 maybe a touch under? It's really personal preference as some people shoot it 1 stop over at 50 and like it projected. I just noticed on my roll I shot at 64 that the highlights were blown in a few shots but overall had WAY better color and exposure than my roll I exposed at box 100ASA speed.

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