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Stephen Perera

Developing Tri-X super 8 in LOMO tank....E6 process?

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Hi all, to continue with the fun I've just bought a LOMO tank to process super 8 at home......I have a roll of Tri-X and my question is simple....E6 process just like any other slide film???? Im confide cos I see it being developed as a negative film too......what gives......

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The attempt at humour failed then.

Mono processing is simpler, at lower temperatures,, but quite different from colour. There are plenty of threads on here about it and info elsewhere. Reversal film can be developed as a negative, you just omit the re-exposure or chemical reversal step.

Edited by Mark Dunn

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Yes, so not E6. The black and white reversal process is what you want. The E6 process will get rid of all the silver, expecting that you will have developed dye during the processing. But with black and white film, there is no dye to form, so the final image is a silver image, not a dye image. As such, the process is different. Just google diy black and white reversal processing


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I'll just add a couple things, since the rest was well answered by experts already. TRI-X is a nice film stock. You can process it a few different ways:

[1]. Normal B&W Reversal


[2]. Sepia Tone Reversal, nice deep rich brown tones using KODAK Developer T-19 Sulfide Developer formula


[3]. High Contrast B&W Negative, which would be using the Reversal Process but only using the First Developer and Fixer, avoiding reversal. Or us any other high contrast B&W Developer for even higher contrast.


[4]. Nice continuous tone B&W Negative using a more conventional B&W Negative Developer such as KODAK D-76, finer grain with other types, tonal changes with other types, you'd have to do a serious read on various developers and/or some testing on your own. If using a Negative Film, use ISO 100 to 125 as a starting point for your Exposure Index. Film can also be pushed or pull processed as well, and since it's in Negative form, you could even use fancy pushing type developers such as Acufine.


NOTE: All of the above processing methods also apply to any 'good' KODACHROME films (those that have been cold stored).

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Thank you for that thorough summary of the processing options, Martin. (I must say, over the years I've copied and saved so many of your posts from this forum and other filmmaking forums. Let me take this opportunity to thank you for always being so willing to share your encyclopedic knowledge .)

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