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Krasnogorsk K3 Gimbal/Steadicam


Thomas Harmsen

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Hi all! I'm new here! Learning a lot from this forum already by reading back previous topics on the K3 (which I own). 

I was wondering if anyone has any experience in using a K3 (or similar) with (modern) steadicams/gimbals. 

Want to try this soon (with a DJI Ronin M) and thought maybe someone might have insights or experiences to share! 

Also I'm looking for someone who services/repairs camera's like this in Europe (or to be more precise The Netherlands). Any tips? 
I'd especially like to brighten and potentially widen (to s16) my viewfinder as its pretty dark and my k3 was modded to s16.

Thanks in advance for your advice ?

Best,

Thomas Harmsen 

Amsterdam. 

 

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Sounds like you maybe new to film cameras. First big thing about a film camera on a gimbal or steadicam is that you would need a way to see the shot and sadly, that means some sort of video camera that would attach to the viewfinder. I know there were a few adaptors made for Bolex's, which are super rare to begin with, but also even if you could make one, getting a decent image out of the viewfinder is hard. Remember, when you stop the camera down, the viewfinder will get darker, so it can get super dark depending on how fast your stock is and how much light there is. Without being able to see the image, you can't do a steady shot. You can't just guess and assume you'll get it, doesn't work that way. Also with the K3, it's a wind up camera so how would you remotely start and stop it on a gimbal? It's kind of not the right camera for that work. 

My K3's viewfinder is bright enough, not as bright as my XTR Prod, but it's not dark. 

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8 hours ago, Carson Wright said:

A similar set-up could probably work with a K3, but it certainly doesn't look easy or cheap. 

Yea, I mean you can do all sorts of wanky things. I was more thinking of doing it "proper". I don't know how to do wanky things like that, I just don't see the purpose of doing all that when cameras like the A Minima exist. It's designed specifically for this sorta work. 

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14 hours ago, Tyler Purcell said:

Sounds like you maybe new to film cameras. First big thing about a film camera on a gimbal or steadicam is that you would need a way to see the shot and sadly, that means some sort of video camera that would attach to the viewfinder. I know there were a few adaptors made for Bolex's, which are super rare to begin with, but also even if you could make one, getting a decent image out of the viewfinder is hard. Remember, when you stop the camera down, the viewfinder will get darker, so it can get super dark depending on how fast your stock is and how much light there is. Without being able to see the image, you can't do a steady shot. You can't just guess and assume you'll get it, doesn't work that way. Also with the K3, it's a wind up camera so how would you remotely start and stop it on a gimbal? It's kind of not the right camera for that work. 

My K3's viewfinder is bright enough, not as bright as my XTR Prod, but it's not dark. 

Thanks for your reply!

Yes I am somewhat new to film camera's ? Or at least still inexperienced/naive enough to want to try this haha.
I was aware of the complications though I think I might have them covered. I'm thinking of getting a 20" cable release trigger and a remote camera for the viewfinder (this one to be exact). As the camera is designed for telescopes it shouldn't have too much trouble with the low light and close focus range. (allthough I have yet to try this but I'm optimistic)

Just wondering if anyone here has done this with a K3.

I've seen people do it with bolexes but the're a bit smaller and lighter. 

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you will need a solenoid or a servo which presses the "run button" on the camera. then you can run a cable and button to start the camera remotely.

and you will need to fabricate some kind of custom attachment to mount a mini cctv camera to the viewfinder. you may need to trial and error with the cctv camera lenses to get the least annoying image out of it.

you will need to use the original spring motor. the K3 is not that useful camera for very serious work to justify heavy and expensive modifications to electronic motor (even crystal motor). it can be done but I would not bother because there is much better cameras for that kind of use if you need them.

You may need to have remote focus as well depending on what you do. Preferably with a little bit more powerful motor than for example the Nucleus Nano which is amongst the cheapest ones (that motor would probably not work with the K3's primes very well because of the low torque. With very easy focusing lenses like AI-S Nikkors it works fine)

 

Probably you will get tired to the K3 gimbal setup after couple of days or weeks but it is an interesting experimentation nevertheless.

 

I did some experimentation with full sized Ronin gimbal and Konvas 1KCP a while ago. have not finished the video tap for it yet so it is in progress but it is fully possible to use this kind of setups if you are used to rigging them. Not rocket science at all, they behave just like any other camera except the balance shift when the film is running from spool to spool. Practical? sometimes, yes. Most of the time, maybe...

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On 9/20/2019 at 2:28 AM, Thomas Harmsen said:

Just wondering if anyone here has done this with a K3.

I've seen people do it with bolexes but the're a bit smaller and lighter. 

Na nobody would every try it with a K3. The guys who did the Bolex project, had lots of issues. I talked to them, it required a boat load of engineering. I doubt they ever used it after that project because they never posted another still image or video about that setup ever again. Bolex's and the K3 are very similar in weight and size, not more than a pound different. 

 

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On 9/20/2019 at 10:28 AM, Thomas Harmsen said:

? As the camera is designed for telescopes it shouldn't have too much trouble with the low light and close focus range.

I think you're under a few misapprehensions here.

The K3 isn't "designed for telescopes", though no doubt it could be used on one with an adapter, but that has no bearing on low-light capability. That depends on lens aperture and the sensitivity of the filmstock. Likewise the close focus distance depends on the lens design- the standard Meteor zoom only focuses down to about 2m.

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