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Black viewfinder - Sankyo


Chris Boyd

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Hi All

Beginners question here - Recently came into possession of a Sankyo EM 30 XL Super 8 Camera - motor and zoom mechanism are working fine and lens is letting light through to the film - issue is I can't see anything through the viewfinder (I've taken the lens cap off!) - its totally black

Rung around a few camera shops and they've all said it could be a lot of things and they're either reluctant to open the camera up or say its not worth the work hours to fix it which is a pain.

Before I attempt to pull the camera apart myself - as it seems a shame to me to not at least have a go at fixing it myself - does anyone have any idea on what might be the issue with it?

Guessing the mirror inside has slipped or something similar but thoughts very welcome.

Many thanks!

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Most probably the reason why the camera has changed possession. It may have gotten a blow that dislocated a mask. These were often glued in. A piece of foam rubber can obstruct the view.

If it doesn’t have to be Super-8 for your filming experiences, I’d recommend Double-Super 8 and the older 8mm format. There you have plenty of gear as well but mechanically better and also better in terms of serviceability. What a word! The preciser you ask the better we can help. Got a budget?

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As many of the Super 8mm cameras age, the adhesive holding in various light shields and small mirrors and prisms will cause them to dislodge.  Most of the front mounted ones can be accessed via removal of the right side panel.  This panel usually has the Daylight Filter switch on it, so you'd have to pay careful attention to how it fits back together.  If it's a light baffle in the main viewing tube system from the viewfinder side, then that is more delicate since all the controls are on this left side of the camera.  Also, double check that it's not the viewfinder shutter that is closed.  This can also sometimes come loose with age and drop down closing off the viewfinder, but this would require removal of the left side camera body shell panel.   Only you can decide if it's worth bothering with, since functioning Super 8mm cameras are so readily available. The SANKYO EM30 XL, like it's larger counterparts EM40XL and EM60XL, is great for low light filming.  The image goes fully to the film, and the viewfinder pickup prism is out of the imaging path but still full SLR, so you truly get all of that F/1.2 advantage along with the 220 Degree XL shutter angle.  If you have some fine tools and tweezers and  a clean place to work, and keep detailed notes to yourself where things go back together, as well as take some pics with your cellphone or digital camera for reference, why not.  I would. 

Before tackling this though, move the camera around a bit and listen carefully to see if anything moves around inside.  That'll be a clue as to something having moved and possible what part of the camera it's located in.

The right side panel is small and should come off pretty easy, 4 screws visible, 2 outside and 2 just inside the film chamber door.  The control left side of the camera is a full body panel, with screws visible.  Place all control settings to their default settings (green ones) prior to removal.  You can also use some non-residue leaving tape to keep them in these positions so they don't move when removing the panel.  Some good contact adhesive along with wooden toothpicks or cut down cotton swabs work great to place the adhesive where it needs to go.  You'll see where the old stuff is.  Carefully remove any loose adhesive debris with tweezers and/or a cotton swab [Q-Tip type cleaner] moistened in Isopropyl Alcohol to soften and remove it.  If a mirror or prism, it will be moved out of position a little if you just put more glue to place it back.

Pay attention to any shims that might've been used to position a prism or mirror. Light baffles aren't as critical in clearance placement, but mirrors and prisms are since the viewfinder path can be affected by the tiniest amount of being out of position. So, you'll have to do some tests.   You can mount some filter rings on the lens stacked out far enough so you will see vignetting in the viewfinder [once the viewfinder is visible], and then can make any careful adjustment so that the center field is in the center with even vignetting in all four corners of the frame.

Best of success in repairing your camera!  If it doesn't work out, plenty of other cameras out there to buy, cheap or reasonable.

Lastly, I have to remind folks, this IS The SUPER 8mm portion of the Cinematography forum.  So, let's remain supportive of Super 8mm in this section.  While other formats have their various advantages etc, this section exists to support Super 8mm!  After all, we don't want to go around into the 16mm and 35mm sections and tell them to consider using another format.  Just my thoughts.

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I am always willing to help but I do not support Super-8. It’s a throw-away plastic project from the sixties. The Eastman-Kodak Co. has made many hundred millions net with it. We have been waiting for four years now on an announced new Super-8 camera from Kodak. It is a different company, that is clear. The heritage, though, can’t be changed.

Super-8 cameras are plastic graves, almost all of them. Owners almost never want to pay for repairs that involve the remaking of broken or deteriorated parts. We have no spare parts except what is torn from other cameras.

Edited by Simon Wyss
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11 hours ago, Martin Baumgarten said:

 

Thankyou Martin - this is brilliantly helpful - I'll definitely give it a go as would find it interesting for my own learning.

Will have a look and let you know how I get on!

Thanks again

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