Ryan Emanuel Posted September 24, 2020 Share Posted September 24, 2020 I have a pool party scene for a horror film coming up and I love this shot from Kiss Kiss Bang Bang, how would you go about the underwater lighting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Stephen Sanchez Posted September 24, 2020 Premium Member Share Posted September 24, 2020 Your image is unavailable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Emanuel Posted September 25, 2020 Author Share Posted September 25, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, Stephen Sanchez said: Your image is unavailable https://shotdeck.com/browse/stills#/s/kiss+kiss+bang+bang hopefully this works Edited September 25, 2020 by Ryan Emanuel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Emanuel Posted September 25, 2020 Author Share Posted September 25, 2020 Man I'm failing at this third times a charm maybe! https://th.bing.com/th/id/OIP.GQod-WeMpMnechUC0s_DaAHaDH?pid=Api&rs=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Field Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 (edited) Do you need people to be in the pool for the shot? Or just walking around it? If just walking around and never closing in on it you could try an empty pool with diffusion gel/sheet over it. Under that diffusion blasting some strong blue-gelled light (not sure if setting up a few mirrors under there would help that wall-like blast). Lastly, getting fog machines around to further diffuse the light into more of a glow. ...That's how I'd do it with the stuff I own at least. Edited September 25, 2020 by Max Field Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Emanuel Posted September 25, 2020 Author Share Posted September 25, 2020 5 minutes ago, Max Field said: Do you need people to be in the pool for the shot? Or just walking around it? If just walking around and never closing in on it you could try an empty pool with diffusion gel/sheet over it. Under that diffusion blasting some strong blue-gelled light (not sure if setting up a few mirrors under there would help that wall-like blast). Lastly, getting fog machines around to further diffuse the light into more of a glow. ...That's how I'd do it with the stuff I own at least. Extras will be in it Anchorman cannon ball style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Phil Rhodes Posted September 25, 2020 Premium Member Share Posted September 25, 2020 You can achieve something of that effect by firing light straight down into the pool, but you do then need lights to be more or less above it. You can get away with standing something on a reasonably tall stand at the corner. Of course that then limits your framing, but it does let you illuminate a pool that perhaps isn't actually lit. Naturally, be stupendously careful about not dumping the light into the water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Emanuel Posted September 25, 2020 Author Share Posted September 25, 2020 10 hours ago, Phil Rhodes said: You can achieve something of that effect by firing light straight down into the pool, but you do then need lights to be more or less above it. You can get away with standing something on a reasonably tall stand at the corner. Of course that then limits your framing, but it does let you illuminate a pool that perhaps isn't actually lit. Naturally, be stupendously careful about not dumping the light into the water. I was thinking about hydroflex HMIs in the pool, but I haven't worked with them before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member David Mullen ASC Posted September 25, 2020 Premium Member Share Posted September 25, 2020 I can't see any reference photo... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Phil Rhodes Posted September 25, 2020 Premium Member Share Posted September 25, 2020 30 minutes ago, David Mullen ASC said: I can't see any reference photo... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member David Mullen ASC Posted September 25, 2020 Premium Member Share Posted September 25, 2020 Thanks! I used HMI hydropars for a pool in Miami, the only problem was dropping scrims in them, I wish I had found an LED version though I’m sure some must exist. I think I was shown something but I wanted round globes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reggie A Brown Posted September 26, 2020 Share Posted September 26, 2020 I saw this a while ago on YouTube. There may be some tips/tricks in it that you could use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Emanuel Posted September 26, 2020 Author Share Posted September 26, 2020 5 hours ago, David Mullen ASC said: Thanks! I used HMI hydropars for a pool in Miami, the only problem was dropping scrims in them, I wish I had found an LED version though I’m sure some must exist. I think I was shown something but I wanted round globes... If you were going 400 ISO, do 2x 1200 HMIs or 2x 4ks make sense in the water for a wide at 2.8/4. I see there is still an upstage backlight, but the pool is doing a lot of the work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member Mark Kenfield Posted September 26, 2020 Premium Member Share Posted September 26, 2020 (edited) Here's some pool action from an under-resourced little film: In order to keep as much of the city skyline exposed as possible, we were balancing the lighting to really low levels (about 1280 ISO @ T/1.6 if I remember correctly). This meant we didn't actually have to add much to the pool, the pool's built-in lights didn't give us much, but I borrowed an LED scuba-diving torch from my dad, and we literally just popped that in the water at around it's lowest setting, and bounced it off whatever part of the tiles gave us the most even spread of brightness through the water, and this was the exposure we got from it. We could have gone MUCH hotter with just the one little hand-torch. If you had three or four of them, you could get a really bright pool (if you work to similarly low levels). Edited September 26, 2020 by Mark Kenfield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Holt Posted October 1, 2020 Share Posted October 1, 2020 On 9/25/2020 at 5:58 AM, Phil Rhodes said: ... be stupendously careful about not dumping the light into the water. Given the inherent danger in using electricity in and around water, I am surprised no one has yet mentioned that the National Electrical Code requires the use of GFCIs on all 15- and 20- ampere, single-phase, 125-volt receptacles located within 6.0m (20 ft._ of the inside walls of a pool (Section 680.22 (A)(4). This creates a problem for us because many movie lights (HMIs, Kinos, & LEDs) generate residual currents of sufficient magnitude to nuisance trip most GFCIs. The source of residual currents in these devices can be intentional or unintentional capacitance. Some sources of unintentional capacitance can be the spacing of components on printed circuit boards too close together, poor insulation between semiconductors and grounded heat sinks, and the primary-to-secondary capacitance of isolating transformers within the power supply. A source of intentional capacitance is the use of RF filters to reduce the amount of high frequencies electronic equipment emits into the atmosphere. These RF filters can be a source of appreciable residual current on the Equipment Grounding Conductor that will trip most GFCIs. If you stick with smaller quartz lights, you will be fine with the hardware store variety of GFCI dongles. But, if you use HMIs, Kinos, and LEDS you will need film style GFCIs, like Shock Stops, that are specifically designed for motion picture lights. To prevent the nuisance tripping that electronic power supplies can cause with standard GFCIs, the Shock Stops trip on an Inverse Time Curve. And, to deal with the harmonics that electronic power supplies can generate that will cause most GFCIs to trip, Shock Stops include a narrow band pass filter with a frequency range of 40-70Hz. Attenuated by the filter, the high frequencies in residual current does not cause nuisance tripping. A more accommodating trip curve, plus harmonic filtration, equals nuisance free operation. For more details about the use of GFCIs on set, see my white paper on the use of portable generators. Guy Holt, ScreenLight & Grip, Lighting Rentals and Sales in Boston Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Conley Posted October 1, 2020 Share Posted October 1, 2020 On 9/25/2020 at 4:55 PM, David Mullen ASC said: Thanks! I used HMI hydropars for a pool in Miami, the only problem was dropping scrims in them, I wish I had found an LED version though I’m sure some must exist. I think I was shown something but I wanted round globes... https://hydroflex.com/equipment-rentals/lighting/ they have linear LED and Skypanels now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Conley Posted October 1, 2020 Share Posted October 1, 2020 Hi Ryan, if you need a genny op familiar with setting up safe power around the pool lemme know. We did a few shoots over the years for Speedo swimwear with Hydroflex lighting and the Shock Blocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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