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Shutter Angle 190 Bolex H16? Exposure issues


Lewis Hart

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Hi all, new to the forum and with a question ?

Im getting into 16mm, got myself a Duluxe Bolex h16 en route in the mail, Ive shot on super8 before but wanted to make a step up and explore a low cost 16mm option. 

I have a shoot out of the country in ibiza next week and wanted to jump in the deep end, all of the content were shooting is in daylight - I read up that the Bolex has a shutter angle of 190degrees?

So 24fps would be around 1/45? I assume this means the fps is tidally locked with the shutter?

Doesn't that make exposure pretty troublesome as you have a constant fixed 1/45 if you want to do 24fps? Surely filming outside in bright daylight is a issue. 

Whats peoples experiences / do you have to stick on a fair bit of ND?

I just took a reading at 1/60, 50iso outside now on a bright overcast day and its saying F8. 

Cheers

Lewis 

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Im a fan of the warmer toned look so was thinking of using a 200T, sticking a 85B on which rates it at 125.

Not compensating for the exposure on the meter and exposing for 125, which is 2/3 stop, color neg always looks better with a stop pushed in my eye, and if you needed the extra speed you could drop the 85 and go box speed and correct in post?

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Of course a “normal “ shutter is 180 degrees. A 190 shutter is hardly any difference. It gives you a minimal advantage with exposure. Treat it the same as a 180. That’s about a 1/48th of a second exposure time at 24 FPS. 
 

G

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11 hours ago, Lewis Hart said:

So 24fps would be around 1/45? I assume this means the fps is tidally locked with the shutter?

Doesn't that make exposure pretty troublesome as you have a constant fixed 1/45 if you want to do 24fps? Surely filming outside in bright daylight is a issue. 

Welcome to the world of motion picture filming! Yes, a 1/48 sec exposure time is pretty common, with 180 degree shutters and 24fps, as Greg said. Your main control variables are the film stock sensitivity, and ND filters. You can stop a lens right down to the minimum aperture setting - often f/16 or 22 with 16mm lenses, but diffraction starts to reduce image clarity at about f/11 so it’s not always ideal to stop right down, and you might not want so much depth of field either.

One if the advantages of later Bolexes was the filter slot behind the lens, making it easy to slip in gelatin ND filters or others. The variable shutter feature could give you up to two stops of reduction as well. With your camera you’ll need to find filters for the individual lenses, or invest in a Bolex matte box and camera base to attach it.

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10 hours ago, Dom Jaeger said:

Welcome to the world of motion picture filming! Yes, a 1/48 sec exposure time is pretty common, with 180 degree shutters and 24fps, as Greg said. Your main control variables are the film stock sensitivity, and ND filters. You can stop a lens right down to the minimum aperture setting - often f/16 or 22 with 16mm lenses, but diffraction starts to reduce image clarity at about f/11 so it’s not always ideal to stop right down, and you might not want so much depth of field either.

One if the advantages of later Bolexes was the filter slot behind the lens, making it easy to slip in gelatin ND filters or others. The variable shutter feature could give you up to two stops of reduction as well. With your camera you’ll need to find filters for the individual lenses, or invest in a Bolex matte box and camera base to attach it.

Very new to this haha! I used to use shutter angle on my Red scarlet W anyway so im clued up on it, but could always change ISO haha. 

 

Yeah I never shoot past f8 or 11 mostly anyway as its peak performance for most glass as you mentioned. 

Luckily have some NDs, 

quick question, am I okay to put a 85B on and then stick a ND over the top of that? Thinking of shooting some 200T and using a 85b, which rates it at 125, so I still get some grain. 50D is rather digital in appearance as per my research, would like a bit more of a filmic image for this shoot. 

Am I right in thinking if I stick the 85B on and I loose 2/3 stop of light, if I meter for 125iso, would that be 2/3 stop over exposed techncically?

Im keen on getting the blacks a little lifted, I always over expose my medium format and 35mm by a stop anyway, to get shadow detail.

So my Q is, can I leave it 125 iso on the light meter, and that would be effectively a 2/3 stop over exposure? 

Thanks 

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I’m a technician, hopefully a DP can answer you better, but if you’re shooting 200T with an 85B filter then it’s rated at 125 so metering for 125 would mean you’re exposing correctly, not overexposing. 

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