More Konvas 1M Power fun

[Guest f824fps]

Hello every one,

 

I've been perusing the forum and have found many interesting, informative and helpful posts here. Great stuff!

 

I do have a question for all those out there using the Russian Konvas 1M's. I've recently acquired one of these cameras and I'm chomping at the bit to get out and shoot with it. The biggest problem I am facing looks to be the troublesome issue of powering the camera.

 

Before I go out and get started on putting a power source together I just want to make sure that my assumptions are all correct and that I have everything I need to move forward.

 

The camera has the cylindrical controller attached to the side, which is connected to the round housing on the side of the camera, I am assuming this is the rheostat and motor, respectively. Is this assumption correct?

 

Also, I've seen and heard about "control units", the boxes that connect to the cylnder at the side of the camera. I do not have one of these. Will I need one, or will the power solutions discussed here (such as using an "energy station" like the EGS-1200) power the camera directly?

 

These are my main concerns at this point. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

Russell -

[J. Anthony Gonzales]

You won't need the controller box for the rheostat motor.

 

I am sure that others have done different and similar things, but here's a cheap and easy solution that will set you up:

 

You will need the following items:

 

1. Original power cable (contact a Russian dealer).

2. 6V 12A Sealed Battery (Werker or other brand from Batteries Plus, etc.)

3. A fanny pack, small camera bag or other small carrying bag

4. Simple wiring, male and female connectors

 

The batteries run about $20. Put together a simple "battery belt" and you should be up and running for under $40. You'll also want to get a charger. You can get one at the battery shop as well.

 

If you are mechanically inclined, you can re-wire the connectors on the motor to accept an XLR or other plug. The original cable is the easiest way, in my opinion.

 

Oh, and be sure to follow the recommended duty cycles for the motor. It can get a bit warm.

[Guest]

"Also, I've seen and heard about "control units", the boxes that connect to the cylnder at the side of the camera. I do not have one of these. Will I need one, or will the power solutions discussed here (such as using an "energy station" like the EGS-1200) power the camera directly?"

 

You can power a 1M without the speed control box? Well that's news to me. The energy station is to be used to plug into the control unit, then the camera goes into the control unit. Going direct from energy station to camera? I don't think it can be done?

 

I have two 1Ms and they both use a speed control box. When you say "cylinder" on the side of the camera you mean the motor I assume :D The cable on the motor should be a seven pin connector that goes into the control unit. I find it hard to believe you can run this camera without the control unit but I could be wrong. You can find the control unit on ebay, or just buy the 17EPSS motor and plug it into a 12v battery belt. (convert Russian connector to 4pin XLR)

 

The 1M control unit runs on 8.4v. But I've never been able to make or get a 8.4v battery pack that would run the camera so I use a 12v power supply. This is not recommended but it does work well.

 

If you don't have the control unit how will you control the speed? You need to be bang on 24fps or you'll have problems in transfer, it's happened to me.

 

One great thing about the 1M, I dropped one of mine onto a concrete floor once, she hit with a bang! Picked it up and it still runs perfectly. I'd like to see a Panavision or Arri take that kind of punishment and keep on running :D

 

Richard

[J. Anthony Gonzales]

With the later model 1M's, you can use the motors that have the controller boxes. From the description,

 

"The camera has the cylindrical controller attached to the side, which is connected to the round housing on the side of the camera...",

 

it sounds like the early 1M's or KSR-1's with the rheostat motor, as it is more "cylindrical" than the later motors and attaches to the crank housing, in lieu of the hand crank.

 

Yep, the rheostat motor is a basic variable speed motor that doesn't really keep sync. BUT, it's definitely fine for MOS shooting.