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  1. Today
  2. I think all of these numbers can only be so helpful. Every camera is different - Everyone talks about how bad skypanels are, but they look really great on the alexa.
  3. Tape or no tape, if the connectors don't fit together properly it's likely to create a high-resistance joint. I'd make sure it isn't getting hot in use. Test it. P
  4. I also thought this is the best strategy, but I was surprised that a lot of Directors (especially in Saudi Arabia where I live) like it when the DP suggest to add some changes to the script. Because for them it means that the DP has really got into the script and he/she genuinely care about it.
  5. Why not just use the TM30-18 Rf scores? With 100 color samples and a very intuitive graphic showing color gamut as well as shift, I think it's pretty hard to beat. It is based on the standard human observer, much like CRI, which can be an issue, but it certainly gives us more information with more data points and is thus harder to cheat. As far as I know, TLCI is based on CCD sensors, so it might not be an accurate predictor of CMOS sensor characteristics. SSI is the only one of the three with a real advantage, being that one can easily change the reference source if they want to match non-Planckian sources like gelled lights or fluorescents.
  6. The current on the battery is listed as 12 amps. It's a 14.8V battery, which is what the DC specs for the light says. Got a new light (Falcon Eyes 18TD) and new battery coming. The second I see it flicker I'm going to gaff tape it in place. Thanks guys.
  7. Bump. Price lowered to $695 or best offer + $120 shipping. Again, Shipping will include signature confirmation and insurance via USPS Priority mail and will ship one business day after the payment is made.
  8. I'm always a bit careful about zeroing out all the sharpening on cameras which have poor codecs. The Sony F3 has recently experienced a surge in popularity, but if you record it onboard it's only a 35Mbps file. Similar problems attend Canon DSLRs and anyone using the HDCAM deck on an F900 will want to be aware of this. If you turn it all the way down the whole thing can end up looking horribly mushy and it needs to be done before the codec gets at it. Low is good, zero sometimes isn't.
  9. I find it easy to differentiate such product apart from "97 TLCI" "97CRI" some of them get these numbers but end up in 80~ range ALQI Surprisingly Aputure P300C got best here on daylight.
  10. Hmm, I could measure some of the stuff I have here. But I think in the end we can keep coming up with different numbers forever. It is hard for something to have a good TLCI, but be really bad at R9 or R12. P
  11. I am going to build a two-speed version for my own use soon ( 16fps and 24fps) and we can then check again if anyone is interested in these cameras :) Posting sync sound footage out of the camera is not a practical way to determine how it is working. One really sees the functionality of the crystal sync system only by using correct measuring equipment and by comparing the reference crystal signal against the motor speed sensor signal when the camera is running in various conditions. The thing is, I am measuring 1/10th frame differences in speed stability and one can't really see them in the final footage because, well, they are fractions of a frame, not full frame differences. That is why I like to post breadboard tests with the oscilloscope shown instead of making some random film tests which really would not show any difference. To me, eyeballing the sound sync from camera footage is pretty pointless and only wastes time and money but if I am making this type of test at some point then it is of course possible to see the end results :)
  12. Lupo Superpanel Dual Color 60 5600K ALQI = 87 Lupo Superpanel Dual Color 60 3200K ALQI = 89.4 LEDGO Altatube 5600K ALQI = 86.8 LEDGO Altatube 3200K ALQI = 90.5 Luxli Taiko 5600K ALQI = 90 Luxli Taiko 3200K ALQI = 94.3 ROTOLIGHT TITANX2 5600K ALQI = 87.7 ROTOLIGHT TITANX2 3200K ALQI = 90.4
  13. Hello, I am in need of a early Bolex H16 service manual. I have an H16, double perf 16mm, and would like to service, and teach myself how to fix these little jewels My name is Gil Solorzano, the date is Aug 6, 2020, in the coronavirus times. email me at: gsolor@hotmail.com thank you
  14. Pretty sure we used to leave it off.. generally Ive always turned detail and aperture off on any digital camera .. definitely any of the recent ones .. its the last thing you need ..
  15. Cant remember on that camera .. but the f5/55 which has 4 SDI, outs... 1 & 2 are always clean , maybe one SDI is always clean on the F900 too.. Im amazed you can still get tapes .. I remember after the big earth quake in Fukushima, there was a shortage of tapes as Sony had factories up there . the prices went sky high . basically they never re built the factories as the disc camera,s were also coming out, I think it sped up the end of tape camera,s ..
  16. Yesterday
  17. Well, I gather I wasn’t actually born yet when HMIs were first invented 👶🏻 and I’m pretty sure the same goes for Kino Flos. So it’s never been all that big of an issue for me 🤷‍♂️ Working with LEDs is no great change from working with Kinos. The differences are mainly just colour-shiftless dimming, battery operability and more recently, better colour rendering. And then the more customisable aspects like lighting effects, strip lighting etc. Oooh “The Orb Light”! Good choice 👍 the main things you can do are remove any barndoors or detachable components that will radiate heat closer to the umbrellas than necessary. And keep as much of an air gap between the two umbrellas as you can (without the spill becoming a problem), it’s a booklight, so there will already be light going everywhere, so you usually have a fair bit of leeway on that point.
  18. I was interested to get a few opinions about this. Im using the Zeiss Digizoom 6-24mm so very sharp and fast glass... where should my detail settings rest to get the most out of the lens, sensor and HDCAM format? Ive been leaving it off but im curious to hear if anyone has used the detail settings with a lens as nice as the digizoom?
  19. So i have the SD down converter option board installed so I guess I cant get Menu information over HD SDI. Bummer. I can still however get a clean feed out the other HD SDI port for my Small HD so thats good at least.
  20. Yes, sorry — I’ll fix that. Just seemed so “Jude the Obscure”-ish...
  21. Hi! I'm Thomas. After I used CRI to measure such thing so long ago with those flos now LEDs. I found these measurement of SSI, TLCI, TM-30 too complicated to evaluate light when you just want to buy one, It's too much data use to judge how good light is. True that SSI has been invented but we are too far from getting such technology like LED to get perfect score or even touch 85 in daylight without using UV chip instead of blue. Which mak SSI score look awkward especially when compare to conventional lightsource like HMI or tungsten. BTW SSI invented to use to match 2 lightsources not directly use to evaluated such light quality. It could be use but honestly look awkward to me. So I came up with something more simple of single number defined quality of light ALQI = Average Light Quality Index Simply calculated from - CRI : Ra, R9(red), R12(blue), R15(skintone) - SSI : measured with CIE CCT closest to lightsource you measure IE. 5600K (input color temperature on Sekonic C800) - TLCI Representing camera sensor. Just average 6 measurements and you will come up with ALQI 100 = Perfect < 70 : Severe Color shift < 80 : Some Color shift > 80 : Usable for most photographic task > 85 : Great for most photographic task > 90 : Excellent for most photographic task > 95 : Reference class match Here's some ALQI various sources from my own measurements and internet Direct Sunlight (Thailand) 9.40AM 5600K ALQI = 99.3 KinoFlo KF55 20W Fluorescent ALQI = 83.1 Incandescent 2700K ALQI = 99.3 5000K LED CRI98+ ALQI = 91.4 3000K CRI98 LED Chip ALQI = 93.4 Sylvania 3w 2700K generic household. ALQI = 65.5 MasterPor 5000K Light ALQI = 87.9 1W 3030 CRI98 LED Chip 6000K ALQI = 90.5 Nanlite Forza 60B 3200K ALQI = 87 Nanlite Forza 60B 5600K ALQI = 89.2 Nanlite Forza 200 5600K ALQI = 90.6 Fuji XT-20 Xenon Flash ALQI = 95.4 Luminus COB 300W 5600K ALQI = 88.5 Luminus COB 150W 3200KK ALQI = 87.1 Litepanel Gemini 1x1 5600K ALQI = 87.1 Litepanel Gemini 1x1 3200K ALQI = 88.3 Rayzr MC 400 MAX 3200K ALQI = 72.3 Rayzr MC 400 MAX 5600K ALQI = 86.8 Aputure NOVA P300c 3200K ALQI = 91.9 Aputure NOVA P300c 5600K ALQI = 92.2 If you have C-800 in your hand you can help me fill the table of such lightsources. Happy rigging!!!! Thomas
  22. Aapo, don't let yourself get down by this. My experience is That most people can't imagine a hypothetical product enough to get really hooked. Once you have a fully working solution, with all the kinks removed and bugs fixed, a manual, nice photos and maybe an example video, this will change. See how Kickstarter works. There is nothing but semi pro videos, mellow piano music and often pretty brilliant marketing claims. A scale of yummy pledges makes people not want to miss out. And at the end, some goon collected a lot of money, runs with it and never delivers. And you know what? Most "customers" forgot about their contribution and don't even miss their pledge. I guess that's just how capitalism works... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ People seeing a prototype strip board with bodge wires on a messy workbench doesn't sell. It does gain interest, but not enough to make a commitment. My recommendation would be: Keep going. Don't think product. Think about what you want to achieve for yourself only. If you feel for that, share your thoughts and see what others reaction is. Feel free to ignore it. Harvest the gems that might have been brought up. Involve others only as much as you feel comfortable. Only then, when it works for you and you are 100% happy, consider making it a product. If you don't feel like productizing, you can still make it open source. That's my absolute favorite way to go. It is by far the most pleasing... for me, at least.
  23. @Mark Kenfield before HMI and LED lights how did you handle the mix color of tungsten and daylight? Off Topic I'm going to try your mobile umbrella book light contraption, with my tota lights! Tota output 750watts. Looks like you used westcott 7ft umbrella with a 2k. Any other tips to avoid melting, the umbrella? All safety tips are appreciated!!
  24. @Joshua Cadmium Have you used the Dichroic Glass Filters? Reviews seem to be mixed.
  25. I created a post "Help with Photometric". The Answers in that post and my needs/wants ruled out Aputure Lights.
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