Mikael Gustafsson

Thank you everyone for the help! I figured out the problem just a minute ago. I had installed it correctly, it was quite straight-forward as a few of you pointed out. The thing which I didn't take into account was that the motor was yelling when it was trying to open up the lens even further, past the max f2.2. That's when I took a glimpse at the light meter controlling plate/dial, and noticed that the poor camera was trying to cope with ASA 25 film at 25 FPS. My room ambience isn't by far enough for that, hence the yelling noise. And speaking of Babelfish, it's a really good service, but with stuff like this I'm hesitating to use it. It's all too possible that you miss just that one important button/glitch/problem because the site doesn't convert just that word. But I guess the german was a bit awkward anyway(the author is from Bayern, if that clarifies). Now I'll start learning how to load film with this beautiful monster. Again, many thanks! Yours, Mikael

Hello. I've been looking for answers on the net for some time by now, without much success. I'd be very thankful if someone with the know-how could instruct me on this. Posted this on another forum with no success as well. Björn Andersson just sent me back our new R-16 PZ all oiled and serviced, the fact that he sent me the lens and the body separately left me in confusion though. I attached the lens and thought it was ok, but when I tried engaging the auto aperture rod the motor started yelling like crazy. I probably installed it the wrong way around. Then I found this notion in German in the manual which has something to do with the issue: "Die Einstellungen entsprechen denen der fest mit der R16A verbundenen Blenden un Zoomsteuereinheiten." "Achtung : Beim EIN und AUSSCHRABEN UNBEDINGT BEACHTEN: 1. Der Zoom Schalter and der Frontseite des Tubuses soll auf "man"(manuell) stehen 2. Die Einheit darf beim Ein bzw. Ausschraben nicht an den Steuertuben angefasst und gedreht werden. Die Hebelwirkung kann, falls dies nicht beachtet wird, zur Dejustierung bzw. Beschädigung der Tuben Fyhren. 3. Drehen Sie die Einheit, indem Sie das Objektiv nur an dem feststehenden Objekticschaft oder and dem Zoom-Zahnkranzring anfassen. Ersterer wird besser zugänglich wenn Sie zuvor den Entfernungseinstellring auf Uendlich-Stellung bringen. Drehen Sie die Einheit jedoch nicht an dem Entfernungs-einstellring, der Endanschlag könnte beschädigt werden." Could anyone help me by either translating that text, or just telling me how the zoom-lens is supposed to be attached before I'm doing something really stupid? Don't feel like doing more damage than I've already done. Thanks a million! Yours, Mikael

Hi. I'd try metering the scene the mirror reflects toward the camera, not the actual mirror in itself. Ought to be quite simple with a spot meter to meter even through the mirror though. An incident one should work as well, by pointing the dome in the direction of the main reflections. I'm not aware if mirrors actually change the incoming light at some minor degree, from what I've heard they reflect basically everything without much light loss(working well as reflectors etc). Hope this helps, even at some degree. Mikael.

Here's something we used in our Super 8 short. It didn't need any drilling or high end machinery, very simple and cheap parts. The most expensive part was the camera tripod mount. It's designed for telezooms on still cameras, sold by Manfrotto (Bogen). The total cost for that thing was approx 70 dollars. We used some very heavy duty fishing line to secure it even further, worked like a charm. Hope this helps. Mikael.

Here's our solution: 75 bucks and no tools required. The suction cup handles are used for carrying glass. If anyone would happen to have some ideas of improving it then I'd be happy to hear them.