max sacker
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Posts posted by max sacker
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What kind of c/cs mount lens are you using? Ideally it should be either an 8mm fixed lens or 3-8mm zoom lens, and in both cases it should have manual focus/aperture...
Hmmm yeah I definitely bought the wrong lens. I've been looking online and can't seem to find the right lens. Either it's auto iris or needs a huge camera attached to it. Can you recommend a good lens and camera module that I could use as a video assist for the Kinor? It shouldn't weigh too much because I'm right on the brink of my weight limit on my glidecam.
Would REALLY appreciate any tips on this.
Thanks.
Max
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But not worth the cost and bother.
Too limited of a lens choice. Mostly long lenses, swell if you're doing surveillnce for a private eye, else...?
I agree. For M42 s16 just convert a Krasnogorsk-3.
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I recently solved this problem by radically altering the times, and turning the film very fast at approximately 3 rotations a second.
I made up a litre of solution and added all 8 packets of the B2 bleach, doubling the potency.
My times were:
Developer A: 12 min/~20ºC
Wash: 20 min /~20ºC
Bleach B: 12 min /~20ºC
Wash: 5 min /~20ºC
Clearbath C: 7 min/~20ºC
Wash: 10 min/~20ºC
Re-exposure:
I took the film off the reel and coiled it on around old drying rack and shone a 100 watt bulb from about half a metre away.
I turned the drying rack (see picture) around to ensure even re-exposure, but left the light blasting on there for well over 2 minutes.
Redeveloper (A): Stupidly I poured away the first developer ( I know you should never do this) so I could only mix the correct
solution for 600ml with what I had left, which was too shallow for my tank, so I mixed for 800ml with a weaker potency and
developed for longer (10 min/~20ºC)
Wash: 10 min/~20ºC
Fixer: 8 min/~20ºC
After a quick wash I opened the tank to check out the film. A perfectly exposed reversal image! This was a welcome sight after all that brown
nothingness or half reversal half negative images. I was chuffed!
However, I noticed when touching the film that the emulsion rubbed off, especially on the perforation
edges. I attributed this to not enough fixer and fixed with a higher concentration (500ml fixer + 500ml water)
for about 10 minutes. I then washed thoroughly for a good 20 minutes, even placing the under a showerhead
of extreme water flow.
Even after all that the emulsion rubs off when in contact with water. I dried the film, and when touching it dry it won't rub off, but if I wet
my fingers and run them over the image it rubs off still. Any ideas what went wrong here?
Hope this helps!
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I've got the exact same problem! I've modified my developer times from slow to fast, from under to over 12 minutes.
I have also been using a morse g3 tank and the fomapan kit chemistry. The result is always the same, brown images,
sometimes partially negative, and partially reversal. What's really strange is that recently I got a roll where the
negative gradually became a positive, one single frame was perfect: (black and white- not sepia, and reversal) and
then it slipped back into a negative.
I've taken this film to the labs here and they are stumped. My latest theory is that it's something to do with
re-exposure or the second developer or the fixer.
I doubt buying a russian tank will solve the problem. It seems to be a chemical issue.
I am going to try to use a reversal bath from now on. But first, can anyone answer me these questions?
1.) How fast should I be rotating the tank? I've been told one pass per minute, which means turning it VERY fast, (About 3 rotations a second)
and I've also been told 1 rotation every 3 seconds. Or I mixed up the information.
2.) How should I do the re-exposure? Until now I have placed the spools on two nails driven into a white board, and blasted a 100w bulb directly
above the film toward the emulsion side, and shone flashlight through the other side. Some people have told me you should actually take
the film out into daylight.
3.) Why doesn't the fixer turn the burnt out leaders clear? Surely the beginning of the film has been fully exposed and should turn clear when fixed?
4.) Can I apply the fixer before the second redeveloper and get a negative?
Would appreciate any answers about this as I am desperately trying to process fomapan at home.
Thanks!
Max
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I saw some articles here a while back about building video assists for the Krasnogorsk.
I now need to build a video assist for my Kinor16CX-2M and am having trouble focusing
my security camera on the ground glass. All I see is a small speck of an image, and
my assumption is I need to put some kind accurately calculated lens in front of this camera.
Any DIY video tap builders here that can give me detailed instructions on what to do?
Would appreciate that!
Max
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I just turned in some Fomapan 16mm B&W reversal to my local lab here in Berlin (andec-film) and they said they have
issues with fomapan. Apparently white spots appear quite often. Has anyone heard of this problem before?
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I am about to transfer six 50ft rolls of super 8 through Frame Discreet. However, i'm not sure if i should transfer them to miniDV, or have them exported as 8 bit blackmagic AVI files to a hard drive.
Is there a noticeable increase in quality in the 8 bit blackmagic file over a miniDV image?
And also, will it be more complicated to edit with an 8 bit blackmagic file? (I'm using adobe 6.5)
Thanks-
Just a note on this for any final cut pro users:
Final Cut Pro, even the latest Studio 2 version chokes up sometimes with Blackmagic .AVI files.
It isn't unlikely that FCP will unexpectedly quit when scrubbing through imported blackmagic
AVIS. At least that has been my recent experience.
With super 8, as with any other film medium it is nice to have uncompressed 422,
because you can convert it to Digibeta for television, but the blackmagic codecs don't always work flawlessly with FCP, even when you use the Media Manager to reconvert them to FCP friendly files.
That said FCP is still the most amazing programme ever!
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You should be able to get a filter in Galway, there's a small film & TV industry based there, quite apart from the photographic shops. However, most professional filters will be square, so you might have to tape it to the front of the lens.
You can shoot without an 85 filter, but you may have to use your polarizer as a ND if it's a bright day. I wouldn't use a yellow filter, you'd be only introducing problems.
Try speaking to Telegael http://www.telegael.com/ for some local info.
I'll be heading to galway tomorrow. Any advice as to where specifically (address wise) to look?
I've called the Galway Camera Shop but to no avail.
Otherwise I'll shoot without. Cheers for the help!
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HELP! I am stuck in rural Ireland, with no professional photography shop anywhere in the country
that might sell a Tungsten to Daylight conversion filter. (Kodak Wratten 85 or other)
I have a Krasnogorsk-3 with me and was hoping to shoot a plate of a road out the back of a car
for rear projection or keying. I have Kodak Vision 200T stock and a few yellow filters, skylight
and a polarizer.
Unless there is anyone on this forum in the Co. Clare area that could lend me a 77mm filter my only option is to shoot it as it is and deal with the blue tint in post.
Is a blue tint correctable in post? Will mounting yellow filters help to reduce the blue tint?
Would appreciate any help or suggestions!
Thanks!
Max
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Also different stocks may run through the camera a little differently... Reversals (especially Kodachrome) are much thicker and react differently. My K3 always gave mixed results with B&W Negative stocks for some reason.
Yes this is the first test I have done on my K-3, though it was serviced and inspected (apparently) before I bought it.
The people I spoke to around here seem to all unanimously agree that it is the lab. Apaprently this happens occassionally at this particular lab. However I want to make certain that my K-3 is okay before I shoot anything important on it. I used Kodak VISION 200T and I someone else mentioned it could be the width of the stock that is causing the problem and that I should test reversal.
The scratch is on the emulsion side and is so deep that it penetrated the colour layer, making it purpleish-blue.
I have uploaded some pictures where this scratch can be seen. There are also smaller black scratches, and another
smaller, purpleish-blue one in the bottom right corner of the frame.
Maybe you can determine something from the pics.
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Hello All,
I just got my negative back from my lab. The guy at the lab told me the film was scratched
by the camera. He said this was either due to a fault in the camera or because it I misloaded
the film by making the loops too large.
This sounded dodgy to me. I spoke to two people familiar with the K-3 and they confirmed what I suspected: when the film is misloaded it does not run at all, and you can tell instantly that there is something wrong.
The rolls ran smoothly and I was told that this lab does have a history of scratching film during the development process.
This was a test film and the first time I used the K-3. Is it possible that the camera scratched the film or is this the lab trying to cover up their blunder?
If scratching can be caused by misloading, are there any tips for the loading process that can prevent it?
Would appreciate your input.
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This reply is a bit dated. You've probably figured this out by now.
I had the same problem as well. The zoom lens will not mount if the zoom lever is close up mode.
Move the zoom lever back to it's start marking (F) and the lens should mount.
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Wow. Thanks. Time to head down to the local photo-mat and buy out the store.
Is it easy to find clip on filter boxes to fit these lenses?
Really appreciate it.
Max
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I've also just bought a Krasnogorsk-3 with an M42 screw mount,
and can't wait to do a test reel! I'll be using that Hungarian
Fomapan R B&W stock.
Not to ask the same question twice, but what would you consider a
good array of lenses to test? I'd like to do test macros, teles and wides.
What brands other than pentax made good lenses for the M42 mount?
I heard it's quite a standard mount.
Would appreciate any help here.
Also, can anyone recommend a good mattebox and filter set
for lenses that fit the K-3 with an M42 screw mount?
Pimp my Krasnogorsk!
in Russian Gear
Posted
Hi Kristian,
Can you tell me how you built the video assist. I can't find the right lenses, CCD cameras to build one for my Kinor 16CX-2M and it's driving me nuts.