adam berk

sounds good :)

we've gotten really great results with super16 EBM HD transfer's for a music video...

as long as you blimp the camera....i'm really excited to see some results once you've got something to sbow

Hi all,

 

I need your opinions about shooting an independent feature -also short drama- with a Bolex H16 EBM

 

This is the package:

 

Bolex H16 EBM Electric with custom 4 pin 12v cable. Speeds 10,18,24,50 crystal sinc.. the crystal snyc accessory , Bolex to C-mount adaptor, C mount to Nikon adaptor. Lens is Kern Vario-Switar 1:1.9 f16-100mm Poe Bolex h16rx. One 400 ft magazine...

 

What do you think?

Is it possible, and/or does anyone know of a place that could slice and spool kodak's infrared still film to be used in a 16mm cine camera?

here's the kodak link

Is there anyway or does anyone offer service to make the bolex viewfinder brighter? I own an EBM.

I found this guy here

Anyone had any experience with doing such a thing?

so about telecine.... super16 CAN be transferred to anamorphic NTSC? I've only worked on one film project so far (super16) and it was an HD transfer.

If super16 can be transferred anamorphic to ntsc, are there only certain telecines that can do it? Or does any super16 equiped telecine have the capability?

do you have a link to procam?

So, wouldn't it be just as easy to do something like this:

1. Build a cable to extend the grip connection to camera

2. Create a mount with l-brackets (or whatever works) that would mount the grip to the rod mount on the

front of the camera - and hold the grip out to the right of the camera -- allowing a tripod plate to be

attached directly to the camera base

some pictures sure would be awesome.. I was thinking along these same lines, but with a bit more simplicity- Just have an aluminum riser manufactured that has a hole through it to allow for a tripod plate sized screw...then just find a screw @ the right length to make it all the way through tripod plate + riser, then into the grip.

The EBM powerbase seems to be pretty tough to find...

I used to use a custom-made extension cord between the grip and body and hang the grip from the tripod but it was really counter-intuitive and it got to be a super hassle if you wanted to switch from tripod to hand-held. Anyway, what I ended up doing was bolting two 4", heavy duty L-shaped brackets from the Hardware store into a rectangle, and putting a 3/8" hole at the top and a 1/4" in the bottom w/ some 1mm thick/1" long fun foam strips as shims on the top part of the bracket and on the bottom. Next, I permanently fixed a 1/4" nut around the 1/4" hole with some fibreglass. So with all that in place, I used a 3/8" wingnut and screw to attach the powegrip at the top and attached my tripod head's quick release plate on to the bottom. So basically you end up w/ metal rectangle that permits enough clearance between the grip and tripod. This probably doesn't make a lot of sense but I'll post some pictures tomorrow to clarify.

So I'd like to know how everyone is putting an EBM on a more-than-BestBuy-consumer tripod head. With the powergrip attached, it wont even go onto a 501- it gets in the way.

damn, you're a pimp

I would've never ever ever noticed that there was a plate in the middle there. I did have to pry a bit, but it eventually came out. The fuse WAS blown, but there was an extra in there. I'm just hoping I will be able to find a couple more of these things to keep around. The camera's working fine now.

Thanks so much!

I assume you taken off the round thick washer where the grip goes.

it really looks like i'd have to slice into the leather to remove the base.... i feel like I'm really missing something

Yes that's the four screws. The plate doen't come off at the point you're thinking, but rather it comes off around the base. If you're lucky you'll find a spare fuse in there too. I don't believe the grip has a fuse, but I am not certain.

The four screws in the place on the camera where the power grip screws in? There are four screws there, but the plate seems to be part of a much bigger section of metal that is laminated together with the rest of the camera body. A fuse would definitely be a great thing to check, if it were findable. Is there a fuse in the grip as well?

Yes, check the fuse in the base by removing the four screws, underneath the camera.

has anyone ever experienced having an EBM die after putting a freshly charged battery into the grip? My EBM was working just fine. In fact, just re-worked. I ran through one battery, then charged it on a new charger. Put the battery back in the camera the next day, and the camera wont run! The crystal sync unit's light IS coming on when attached to the bottom of the grip, so it seems that there IS power, but the damn camera just won't budge!

has anyone ever experienced having an EBM die after putting a freshly charged battery into the grip? My EBM was working just fine. In fact, just re-worked. I ran through one battery, then charged it on a new charger. Put the battery back in the camera the next day, and the camera wont run!

btw, sorry for the double-post, complete accident

can anyone recommend a good source for ebm batteries?

thanks to everyone

I actually took the camera in for service today, along with a rex4 I had which also needed service. Instead of leaving with two fixed rex's, I ended up leaving with a beautifully clean super16 EBM full kit w/nikon mount, powergrip and battery!

Ordering some kodak tommorow ;)

and BTW-- it was a shutter timing problem

i guess just a matter of something coming loose

For a "Domino" and/or "3 Kings" type look, aside from the skip-bleach, would it make sense to meter and expose for the mid's and shadows without paying much attention to the super bright areas of the frame? Just put my shadows and midtone areas where I want them....?

I'm worried about my bolex. When firing a single frame in the mode where the shutter stays open as long as you hold the switch, the shutter doesn't appear to be completely clear of the gate. I just realized this after shooting 600' for my term final! :blink:

Does this sound as if all my film will definitely have a big black slash across each frame? Could it be an issue that only occurs during single frame exposure?

What should I do, who should I call? Ghostbusters?