Easton Sheahan-Lee

Great! Thanks alot for all of yer help!

I just figured out the problem, the take up spool was getting caught on the closing latch, so I just filed it down a bit and now it's working fine...PHEWWWW! :blink:

Another quick question, for setting the F-Stop, my understanding is that all you have to do is twist the ring on the front of the camera mounted on the light meter or other glassy lense thing....is this correct or is there something i am missing?

exactly, like it just clamps down and stops advancing, but it runs fine when the mag is closed.

I think I solved the problem, there was a small silver button I depressed and it works now all though the only thing advancing is the take up spool, nothing else is moving....is this normal?

Hi everyone,

Just got my Scoopic in the mail today and.......a problem. It seems to run smoothly as long as the acces panel to all of the inner workings is on but as soon as I open it it stops working! Anyone have any ideas???? It seems when I open the door the two silver film guides clamp down.....Anything I can do or does it require professional repair?

Just got to this movie yesterday...

What can I say, Fantastic!

Absolutely wonderful! Great writing, great acting, fantastic lighting and most of all good angles and perspective!

It is not better. It is newer. You may get a cleaner camera that has been used less.

 

I have had both "versions" and I haven't noticed a measurable difference.

 

Actually, the more time your K3 racks up, the quieter it runs and the easier it is to wind.

 

Of course you want to keep it clean.

 

I have a minty older K3 that runs quieter than my newer version.

 

This kinda is like what happens to engines as they break in... At 60,000 miles of normal operation your cars engine will put out more horsepower than it did right out of the factory. Right out of the factory it will be tight. After some normal wear and internal friction will reduce and it will start to feel it oats.

 

As your K3 gets older it is always a good idea to time a run of 10 feet through the camera and see if the camera speed selector is correct at 24fps or if you need to dab some paint on your speed setting if it has changed.

 

10 feet of film should run by in 16.7 seconds at 24 frames per second.

 

Using a normal stop watch, you can time this pretty well. No need for a strobe light or anything fancy.

SC

Is there any particular Version of the K3 I should look out for because it is potentialy better? Why would it be that the front plate is not black but is instead silver?

Did he sign a legally binding contract as part of the order?

If so then he is obliged to buy the DVD as long as you can prove it legitimately runs to his lawer on any computer.

Just a suggestion there is a guy whom I have had the pleasure of meeting and for an experimental project he used a flag with black and white then pasted pictures of various things onto it, then ran this fan over the flag and intercut various shots of the pictures flapping and fading.....then did some negative scratchwork.

I thought it was sorta neat.....I'll see if I can dig it up?

You DO NOT want a Scoopic for shooting in the cold and the snow.

 

For $300 get the K3. No batteries required. Practice loading it before going out.

 

95 percent of ALL registration problems are due to improper loading.

 

Properly loaded, the K3 will beat anything in the $300 category.

 

SC

But just out of curiousity I am wondering if it is really true that the export version is actually better than the original made in Russia....?

Is this at all true or does it even matter?

You DO NOT want a Scoopic for shooting in the cold and the snow.

 

For $300 get the K3. No batteries required. Practice loading it before going out.

 

95 percent of ALL registration problems are due to improper loading.

 

Properly loaded, the K3 will beat anything in the $300 category.

 

SC

But just out of curiousity I am wondering if it is really true that the export version is actually better than the original made in Russia....?

Is this at all true or does it even matter?

You DO NOT want a Scoopic for shooting in the cold and the snow.

 

For $300 get the K3. No batteries required. Practice loading it before going out.

 

95 percent of ALL registration problems are due to improper loading.

 

Properly loaded, the K3 will beat anything in the $300 category.

 

SC

But just out of curiousity I am wondering if it is really true that the export version is actually better than the original made in Russia....?

Is this at all true or does it even matter?

You DO NOT want a Scoopic for shooting in the cold and the snow.

 

For $300 get the K3. No batteries required. Practice loading it before going out.

 

95 percent of ALL registration problems are due to improper loading.

 

Properly loaded, the K3 will beat anything in the $300 category.

 

SC

But just out of curiousity I am wondering if it is really true that the export version is actually better than the original made in Russia....?

Is this at all true or does it even matter?

Ive taken a Krasnogorsk 3 to the snow fields to film skiing and snowboarding and I didnt experience any problems. However, I only exposed one 100ft film. There are reliable K3s around and also non reliable ones also - due to poor quality control at the factory that made these cameras. According to one source, the ones with the 'krasnogorsk 3' name written in English are the later ones and supposedly more reliable. The K3 does have a very good viewfinder - better than that of a Bolex and easier to focus. If you are planning on doing any time lapse shoots in your ski films, I have to confess that I havent been able to get my K3 to shoot single frame but I have heard from others that you get fogging with long interval times - though covering the lens and viewfinder between frames is said to fix this problem.

does it matter what color the front plate is? the one I am considering buying is Silver.....Does this make a difference? Krasnogorsk 3 is written in english so I am not sure.....

Are the scoopics really reliable cameras? BEcause like I live in Calgary and having a scoopic serviced here would require I ship it out to get it fixed which is just a ridiculous amount of work! Can I simply take care of it myself preventing the need for any additional labor?

Hi Everyone,

I was reading somewhere on this forum that the version of the K3 with English righting on the front plate above the lense is actually more reliable than they other versions because it was designated for export thus underwent much more strenuous Quality Control. Is this True?

I don't think the film was really, really bad.....but I agree with alot of the others here. It seemed really amature, and I can assure you I would not buy the movie nor watch 114 minutes of something of that grade/

Well the shots were really nice,

But there was no creativity....all you were doing was taking shots of things outside and putting music over it. I wouldn't call that a Music Video.

Additionaly, some of the shots were sort of shaky at points.

Over-all though, nice and relaxing....just nothing new :unsure:

Heres another good question, I am also considering shooting a short within the near future, in terms of sync sound what type of camera are we talking?

I am going to be doing a short film throughout febuary and maybe a bit into march, and I need a really simple recording rig that will get me reasonable quality without ridiculous money! I am shooting 16mm and am doing all of the work on this project so I just need somethign simple which I can attach a broadcast Mic to.

In terms of servicing, I was just thinking, using light silicon oil to lube some moving parts and clean dirty surfaces with a cotton swab and some rubbing alchohol....does this sound right?

Do you have to cut the first bit off?

Like it comes with an extra 9ft I understand that, but at what point do you cut the piece off? because in the K3 it seems that the cutting tool is before the film guide etc. Can you leave the extra length on just for loading purposes or does that mess up your camera?

Strictly speaking, it's just the five feet of film at the head of a roll on top of the 100ft already there. Again, the manual should clarify all of this for you.

Okay, thanks again. Just curious though, why is it necescary to cut this bit off? if it is an extra 5 feet great! or is it marked at a certain point. Why do manufacturers include this?

Wow!

That was just beautiful!

I liked the scene for the most part but maybe just a quick revision:

When the guy peeks around the corner he should spin back in and put his arm of to stop the girl so it seems like she's sort of panicked. when she runs out and hides behind the column the woman with the gun should shoot at the column and the girl should sort of break down and crouch behind it as if she won't move then all of a sudden she breaks for the elevator sort of catching the evil woman off guard. This makes the other guy have no choice but to sort of sprint out and catch her.

Otherwise I think it's good!

It's standard in that it's usually a 100ft daylight loading spool and those are a dime a dozen. Like I said, you could just go to the lab and ask for a bunch if there isn't one w/ the camera already plus you'll probably need a couple of extras.

Yeah. You may want to go to Ebay and get an instruction manual. That should answer any and all questions you might/will have.

 

Good luck!

Well I have worked with 16mm Before but I have always had people on hand to load the camera (a friend of mine is in his 3rd year at film school).

The leader bit will be marked I assume?

Ahhhh, okay thanks!

So for a take-up spool, did there used to be one standard that came with the camera? because I am buying a Canon Scoopic 16 for something around 100$ from a guy I know, and it includes all the original parts......or is it just something you can get anywhere?

When you mean cut off the end, you mean the leader bit right?

I just have a few other questions regarding the Scoopic.

First off, does it require a take-up spool or does it have some sort of other mechanism?

Secondly, how complicated is the loading procedure? Is it easy enough to experiment with, with a roll of dud film?

LAstly, since it is non-reflex, does the view-finder show the effects of zooming in and out on the object (I know it seems sorta stupid but......)?

Interesting workflow...but anyway

We haven't already purchased it, we have worked out all of our budgeting through spreadsheets already including travel costs, accomidations, film EVERYTHING. With film being so damn expensive you can actually probably run over the cost of the camera 100x's buying film.

Rental is out of the picture since it is over a whole winter with a varying schedule.