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Andy Boreham

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Posts posted by Andy Boreham

  1. Did they do a full super16 mod to this camera, there seems to be an emulsion mark in the super16 area of the footage. When converting a camera to Super you have to mill all of the surfaces which come into contact with the area of the film just widening the gate will not assure a scratch free negative.

     

    -Rob-

     

    BTW I use my Peleng 8mm lens in a nikon mount on my eyemo, now thats wide! O

     

    Yeah there is scratching on the cell side of the film so I might have to get things looked at to find out what is going on... I really don't know exactly what was done to this camera other than that the lens and viewfinder were centred, the gate was widened and the loop formers were removed...

  2. Very fun lens. That's one of the great things about the K3, picking up relatively inexpensive lenses for effects.

     

    Interesting that the distortions seemed to be roughly centered; I would have expected them to be slightly off since the lens/gate isn't recentered, the gate is just widened on one side.

     

    Another lens worth looking into is the Zenitar 16mm which you can buy new from Russian camera importers. It also covers the full S16 frame, is wider than the Meteor Zoom, and much less distortion than the Peleng.

     

    Also, find a 50mm Pentax Super Takumar 1.4 for really sharp (and low light) shots. Sometimes you have to buy a camera too to get this lens but then its fun to have a 35mm still camera to mount all these M42 lenses without adapters.

     

    Oh excellent, I'll keep an eye out for that Zenitar lens - sounds great! I really hate the distortion on the Peleng but it *could* be useful in some situations...

     

    By the way, the lens / viewfinder on my K3 has been re-centred.

  3. ...I think the problem is the lens. Looks like worn elements to me. Couldn't be the telecine if you used a Spirit and if the film stock is fresh you should get way more color out of it. Did you test any other lenses with this camera?

     

    Steve

     

    Yeah, tested a few others. The 'problem' with the film stock is that it's actually Tungsten balanced without any correction filters.

     

    The test was really to see which lens covered the S16 frame etc, so getting a good image wasn't really an issue - which is why a lot of the shots are less than well exposed :)

     

    awesome....

     

    is there anyway you could post here or on that site some full res stills? I'd be most interested in seeing some full res grabs from the CU of the boy towards the end...the same shot as the pic on the right on your page

     

    Sure thing, will do that tomorrow...

  4. It's not so much that it's louder, it's that it sounds FASTER. Does that make sense? Like it definitely doesn't sound like anything is wrong with it, just sounds like it's running at 48 instead of 24, etc.

     

    Maybe I should run the same piece of film through each and time it??

  5. Thanks so much for your help everyone so far! Have come to do the scratch test by running through film that hasn't been used anywhere before.

     

    But I've noticed a difference between this K3 and my old standard 16 K3 and that is that they sound so different when running at apparently the same speed.

     

    The Super 16 on at 24fps sounds like my old K3 running at 48fps. Could this be to do with the modification, or does each camera simply sound different? Or could it be the dire situation that perhaps this new camera isn't running at the rate it's meant to?

     

    Your ideas, please!! :)

     

    Mike: I'm not sure who did the modification... perhaps I should have asked! It has the M42 mount and just came with the standard lens, which I'm aware won't cover the Super 16mm frame below about 27mm. I also have a Peleng 8mm (which I think is going to fisheye even more than normal with the wider frame, bummer) and just bought a 28mm Pentax Takumar as Will suggested... looks nice so far!

  6. If you have a changing bag you can do this. K-3 comes with a film cutter on the side. Judging by the first shot in your roll, (the cat) you did not use a change bag to load.

     

    I would not re-loop 5-7ft of film in "daylight" as you're risking burning what you've shot allready and prob burn most of the film you're about to shoot. Also don't forget about needing an extra uptake spool.

     

    What you describe the camera going "mental" is the backplate on the gate clapping against the gate when the registration pin is lost from the film. K-3 has one pin. Find out why it jumped out during your 100' roll. It can be for many reasons.

     

    Get 100ft of film that you can ruin or somesuch and run it through the K-3 with the door open and the film-loop toggle depressed. Thats the thing that gets pushed when you close the film door, it makes the black plastic loop formers retract. And see if you loop stays in shape. It's possible the backplate just flew out from the camera recieving a bump.

     

    That's right, I didn't use a changing bag. But while I get used to loading the camera I don't mind losing a few feet :)

     

    You say the film may have come off due to a bump. I never bumped the camera but it did come off after I let the camera run for much longer than any previous 'take'. Could the registration have been lost due to this?

     

    I think I should definitely run the camera with some exposed film and the door open to watch what happens and will learn a lot.

     

    Thanks for your help :)

  7. Thanks guys, appreciate your ideas.

     

    Dennis, the sound of the camera running did change when it was going totally mental and I stopped (still with about 5 or 10 feet left) since I knew something was wrong. But since it was so far through (90ft) I decided just to have what I had done developed and not fix the problem. So do you think I could have somehow re-looped and shot again, or just give up at that stage?

     

    Chuck, thanks for your lovely words on New Zealand - I'm glad you enjoyed your time here :) Sorry I can't remember if the film felt tight. Might check that next time... although I feel like just getting a new K3 altogheter. I heard some are good and some are bad due to quality control?

     

    Nathan, I checked out your footage so many times as I ran across it while searching for K3 footage... it's so weird how everyone uses this site haha. That's a good idea re: running test film through and observing, am definitely going to try that next time before running anymore film!

  8. Thanks for all of the tips, guys - really appreciate it.

     

    The reason I'm using 1/12th scale is because parts already made (windows, doors, etc) are readily available, ie: dollhouse scale. So really I think it's a great 'practice' size, if nothing more.

     

    The effect I'm looking for isn't the whole house engulfed in flames, instead I'm looking for the start of a fire ie: contained to just one room, with mostly black smoke and small 'licks' of flame out of the window frame. I think this will be more easily achievable in that scale???

     

    You guys mentioned 'Twixtor' a lot, so I did some searches online and found out a little bit but not much. Is it a program in itself, or just a plugin? If the latter, can I use it in After Effects 6.5?

     

    Also, I'm wanting to get this blown-up to 35mm to see how Super 16 - 35 looks (am doing a job where I can hitch this test on the end and not have to pay for the transfer - *evil grin*). Would Twixtor mean I don't have a smooth transfer to 35?

     

    I also have one more question. Would you guys suggest shooting this outdoors with natural light (I want to do this in the day time) or should I do this with simulated daylight?

     

    Thanks everyone, and have a great New Year! :)

  9. Hey all!

     

    Will be shooting a miniature house in 1/12th scale that will be set on fire for a short film.

     

    I've heard of the equation used to work out frame rates but was wondering if it's all that important, well mainly since my camera only shoots as slow as 48fps and not the 84 that I should be using as per the equation.

     

    So basically I wanted to know if anyone has experience with miniatures, namely fire, and if 48fps will be fine?

     

    Also any other tips and trick would be greatly received! I'd also love to see photos of anyone's miniature work.

     

    Thanks heaps guys :)

  10. Hey everyone,

     

    Here is a cinema commercial I shot using the Canon XL2 for finish to 35mm for screening at a film festival. [For a good quality version go to http://www.frozenflameweb.com/loveismpg or for a so-so quality version in Windows Media then go to the commercial's website http://www.loveis.co.nz and click on 'Watch Ad'].

     

    Would like any opinions, advice etc.

     

    I noticed the print looked great in smaller theatres and started to fall apart a bit in the big theatres...

     

    Don't know if I'd use SD for print to 35mm again but I learnt a lot!

     

    Cheers!

     

    ANDY

     

    (PS: The commercial is a safe sex commercial made for a gay film festival, so if you have an aversion to watching men kissing then be warned! :P )

  11. I'm interested in viewing samples of footage shot on the K-3, but it has to be color film. I am tired of watching poorly exposed BW. Specifically, looking for vision2 series stock.

     

    I saw one clip on the internet; it was a music video.

     

    Thanks

     

     

    Hey, first post - woop! I've just had some K3 colour footage telecined.

     

    You can check it out here http://www.frozenflameweb.com/k3

     

    Nothing special, just shows you some mediocre samples of quickly shot footage on the K3 :)

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