Rodney Dotson

it seems I mis-typed my email address above. It is osmenthe01@gmail.com

thank you.

Hey everyone. I posted this camera on Ebay and got quite a few looks but no one purchased it. I bought it from an estate liquidation a little over 3 years ago and unfortunately never shot any film with it. So I thought I'd bring it here to get some exposure.

Included in the sale:

1x Elmo 1012 S-XL camera

1x Telescoping microphone

1x standoff bracket for mic

1x standoff bracket for spotlight (light not included)

1x remote battery pack (DC 6x 1.5v "C" type batteries)

1x cable organizer clip

3x 62mm filters (1- Hoya FL-W, 1- Hoya 85B, 1- Rokunar F-D)

62mm lens cap and lens shade

Wrist Strap

Cables for microphone, remote mic, spotlight, audio out

Metal foam lined hard suitcase for safe storage and transport

Unfortunately I do not have the actual remote control for this camera

I had this camera serviced when I first purchased it 3 years ago and never used it. Since I've owned it, it has always been stored in the case with no batteries or film cartridges installed. There is no corrosion in either of the battery bays. The optics are flawless (no scratches, marring or fungus). All of the power options work smoothly and quietly as does the camera. It has the removable top plate to accommodate the 200/400 foot reels

I would like to get $250 + actual shipping to you but will entertain reasonable offers of course. I am located in Olympia WA, just south of Seattle.

If you have any questions for me or want to see something specific on the camera, comment here, PM, or email to osmenthe@gmail.com

Thank you very much and here's a few quick pictures of the camera:

Don't feel bad! I had the same "trouble" when I got my Elmo! So it may be like the rookie Elmo user "baptism"!

Maybe that's what the "T" is for....

Trouble!

Worst part was, my father, who has put probably a hundred miles of 8mm through a camera in his day, had come over to see my "fancy" new camera. Oh well, works fine now :)

Foam is getting "that feel" to it though, so it's going in for service.

I don't understand. First you said that you could make the camera work with the handle down, but when you retracted it, it would no longer work! If that is the case, that does sound like something is wrong, no? You might want to verify if you have an intermittent power issue.

 

Did you try running the camera as you retract the handle to see if there is an intermittent issue?

There is a setting on the power switch marked with a "T". When you have the handle retracted to mount on a TriPod, Instead of using the "ON" setting, you must use the "T" setting (I suppose it would stand for TriPod).

I thought that I had moved the switch to the "T" position while trying to get the camera to power on, but I must have been mistaken. It seemed to work fine after speaking with IJM.

I am still sending it down to be looked at and serviced. If there is anything truly wrong with it, I'll have it taken care of then.

Rod

I hope someone can point me in the right direction on this.

 

My Elmo 1012 is in great shape and functions perfectly in hand-held filming. The problem is that when I fold the handle up to TriPod mount, I get no power to the camera. I had not attempted to run the camera on a TriPod until recently, so I was unaware of this issue. I can get a good "battery check" with the handle up but there is no power to the rest of the camera (light meter, trigger, etc.). I have tried it with just the onboard batteries and the external pack as well (both with and without onboard batts loaded)

 

I inspected what I could without opening the camera body and the wires leading inside the body seem very solid.

 

Is there a setting on the camera that I'm missing for mount function?

 

If the camera does need repair, IJM seems to be the place for Elmo work. Would anyone recommed me give them a call?

 

I love the camera and would like to be able to use it for my next short, but I may have to resort to my Sankyo ES66 or Bolex 525 for the work :(

 

Any input would be apreciated!

 

Rod

Moron Alert!

After speaking with IJM (Irv), even though I thought that I had tested it, the "T" setting on the power switch seemed to power it up just fine. *Egg on Face*

I'm still sending it down there to be serviced and checked out (foam seals are getting mushy), but I would like to give IJM hearty:

THANK YOU!

I hope someone can point me in the right direction on this.

My Elmo 1012 is in great shape and functions perfectly in hand-held filming. The problem is that when I fold the handle up to TriPod mount, I get no power to the camera. I had not attempted to run the camera on a TriPod until recently, so I was unaware of this issue. I can get a good "battery check" with the handle up but there is no power to the rest of the camera (light meter, trigger, etc.). I have tried it with just the onboard batteries and the external pack as well (both with and without onboard batts loaded)

I inspected what I could without opening the camera body and the wires leading inside the body seem very solid.

Is there a setting on the camera that I'm missing for mount function?

If the camera does need repair, IJM seems to be the place for Elmo work. Would anyone recommed me give them a call?

I love the camera and would like to be able to use it for my next short, but I may have to resort to my Sankyo ES66 or Bolex 525 for the work :(

Any input would be apreciated!

Rod

Why don't you simply ask them to send it by the United States Postal Service instead of by DHL overnight courier?

 

I suspect their response will be either:

 

"We can do that, but we can't guarantee delivery" (which is perfectly reasonable)

or

"We can't do that." (which would be an irrational way to lose business, unless postal services have started to x-ray international packages)

Or there is the possibility of a slightly amended second example; "We can't do that because we have a CONTRACT with DHL for all of our product shipping."

Not sure, but I have run into this before. Every time it was a contractual issue.

Rod

Ah, THAT explains it. :D

Please explain this ''salty'' handling fee.

Someone correct me if I am wrong, but...

Secret, undisclosed, shifty, dubious, behind the scenes.....

I could add more, but I think you get the point.

Hey there

 

I'm just trying to pick out a reliable external hard drive to edit on & was wondering what brands/sizes you would recommend? For now I'll be editing mostly DV, nothing longer than 30mins. I'm using Avid Express Pro on my 12" PowerBook with 2 2.0 USBs & 1 FireWire 400 ports. I've been reading that the main problem with external hard drives is the power supply shorting it out & that the best way to deal with that is to plug into a UPS

 

I did a search to see if the topic has been mentioned before & could not find any such threads

 

Thanks a bunch ; )

One thing I have noticed many people do (not just here but in everything electronic) is "Buy for what I need". I always tell folks, "Buy for what you WILL need".

When it comes to storage, look at your buget and then the difference in costs. For external HD's, the difference in cost from 250gb to 320gb, and 500gb is really in the long run, neglibile $50 or so.

GO BIG. Always get the biggest storage solution available. You may not need it now, but if you keep at it, you will.

I personally own 2 Maxtor Personal Storage 3200 500gb externals. They are 7200rpm, 16mb cache, and usb 2.0. I havent put "film" to them yet but I have used them for some CG work and I store all my "mobile" CAD, Database, and work items. They are not overweight and don't take up too much space. Occasionally I drop one in my laptop bag to take it with. At less than $400 for both (I paid $190 each at Newegg.com), a Terabyte is a deal.

Just my $.02

BTW, I try to run ALL my PC/editing equipment through a UPS. Hard to do on the road, but in my office and at home, it's worth it.

One of my observations over the years has been that Super-8 fans tend to be very very cost conscious. This is admirable to a poit, but at some point, I like to see people who have invested in super-8 to perhaps recoup their investments and even make a profit if they have a legitimate product to offer the super-8 community.

 

The fact that you have already bought super-8 scans in the past is very commendable, you might just be in the minority when it comes to that fact.

I usually have no problems paying my share for things like equipment, documentation, film, labor... (although I did just get a steal on the Elmo 1012 and I just picked up an AMBICO telecine NIB from the Goodwill for $6.99)

What I do like to "scam" is knowlege :ph34r:

I don't have much detail information about cinematography (yet) as I am just starting to learn, but any storage space I do fill in my brain is "Public Domain".

I had no idea. If you previously stated..."having purchased several low quality scans in the past"... then we could acknowledge your expertise in this area, otherwise it looks like someone trying to be super cheap when dealing with super-8.

 

Although for 15 bucks, it must be tempting to just do it one more time and hope for the best. Can't the sellers of these scans offer an honest crtique of how good or bad their scan is?

Sometimes they do. Sometimes they don't. It's really a crap-shoot anymore.

Please don't think I was trying to be at all hostile in my previous answer. I can definitely understand where you are coming from. Of course we like to get as much as possible for as little as possible (value), but again, I'd pay a "goodly amount" if I could be assured of a high quality scan.

I also want to make clear the apreciation that I feel for the large amount of information in such a short period of time that I have gleaned from this forum and especially you.

Thank you

Rod

Oh the poor lonely scanners of Super-8 information who toil days on end to make old Super-8 information available yet are supposed to not even make a minimal buck.

I have no problem paying for a high quality scan. I guess I'm a little gun-shy about paying for an unknown quality scanned manual. I have been disappointed with the scanned information that I have purchased in the past.

Anecdotally, I purchased scans of several out of date gaming books from a few different suppliers. Out of the 7 that were ordered ($10-25) each, only one was a truly "acceptable" scan. The others had missing information/pages, illegible paragraphs, tilted pages, they were just horrible looking productions.

I will pay for a scanned manual (even more for the real deal), but at this point only if I am confident that it is a quality scan and as a last option.

If I seem bitter about paying for scanned out of date material, I am.

Rod

the only way that it will sometimes turn on is when i press the action trigger and the power switch that is on the handle together and it make a loud noise if i do that. And i know its not good to do that.

I can almost guarantee you have a poor connection in one or both of those switches. As for a repair...

I really don't know. It would depend on what exactly is wrong with it. does it need the switches replaced? Does it need a good parts cleaning? Corrosion? Loose wires/connections? It may only be a problem with a couple parts, but the extent of the repair is going determine the cost.

I'm sure someone here knows who works on the Nizo's. Unfortunately, I don't.

Rodney, If the lens cover says 62mm, then that is bound to be the size of the hood and filters. The 60 meter cartridges are no longer available to my knowledge. The Supermag is something someone was trying to develop but I believe it died. Google it. These larger film loads were possible because you'll notice that at the top of the camera, above the film compartment, is a little door which flips up, accomodating the larger size.

 

Rick

Thanks for that! I googled the Supermag... wow sure was a lot of controversy for something that doesn't affect so many people! It seemed to be a great idea, but the cost and limited usability/compatibility. I wouldn't mind finding one, but they sure were expensive.

Hello there!

There are a couple specifics about the 1012S-XL that I am having trouble researching.

I am going to purchase filters and a lense hood for the camera. What is the mm size of the lense? The Kalt lense cover says 62mm, but I am not sure if that is the correct size for hood and or filters.

Second, does anyone have a PDF or copy of the Manual for this camera? I have seen them on the net, but reprinters want $15 for a marginal scan or PDF.

OHH! And this:

Elmo 1012 S-XL

From Super8wiki

 

<snip>

 

Accepts the 60 meter cassette or SUPERMAG 400 (400ft) magazine.

What the Hell is that about?

wonder what the problem is then?

You'll want to troubleshoot a couple things:

1. Does the power come on at all for the camera? You can check this by using the battery meter(if it has one) or any of the light meters functions.

2. Does it power up but will not run the motor (spool film)?

If there is no power at all to the camera, then there is definitely an internal electric problem. This could range from poor battery contacts to the PCB. Because it is intermittent I'm guessing one of 2 places. The wiring from the battery box to the camera, or (more likely) a poor connection at the power switch.

If it has some power (accessories) but will not spool film, then it is most likely a poor connection (bad) trigger, or more rarely it could be a poor connection to the camera's motor.

I would troubleshoot the above examples and then if you feel confident, test the internal connections. I am in no way recommending you pull it apart with no experience, but it is most likely a poor connection/bad switch somewhere.

I wouldn't format jump if I were you.

 

I'd keep the Super-8 camera even if I then was going to shoot 16mm.

This would be "Ideal"...

But I may need the funding in the long run. I haven't seen many "good" 16mm rigs that meet my current bugetary requirements. The rig I will require when I finally shoot the end product is usually going for $3500-$5000 US. Although, I am setting aside $$ monthly to get to the "end product".

You are right though, "There's always room for Super8!"

I would stick with the internal meter if I were you and then compensate the exposure a little as Alessandro instructs. The internal meter will always know the speed of the lens, the shutter angle, etc - information required to use an external meter accurately. (I am always surprised by the number of people who recommend an external meter in super 8. I have used the internal meter exclusively on dozens of cameras on hundreds of rolls with no problem). Besides, information like shutter angle is often not available, even if you have the manual!

 

Also, a quicker (and less expensive) way to determine your compensation is to simply load a cartridge of 64T and note whether or not it depresses the notch detection pin in the film chamber. (Top right-hand corner, above the gate area, is a tiny single pin.) If it is depressed by the cartridge, the meter will read it as 40. If it is not depressed, it will read it as 160. Either way, compensate exposure accordingly.

 

Rick

I will take this advise and use it! Thank you. The only reason I was going to use the external tools was for "educational" purposes. I'm sure I can trust the internal meter, I just dont want to become dependent on it.

If that is your plan, and it is a good one, then I would suggest you getting either a Bolex H-8 regular 8mm camera or a Canon DS8mm or Bolex modified to shoot DS8mm. This will provide more of a learning experience getting you ready to shoot 16mm. You will learn to thread roll film (no cartridge to pop in like S-8mm) and to set exposure using a light meter. You will also be accustomed to using a camera the size of 16mm since those cameras I mentioned are actually 16mm cameras that use double run 8 or S8 film. Just a thought!

I had actually thought of going this route, but the cameras that I have access to are a bit out of my current price range (unless you know where I can pick one up SUPER cheap). I will use the Elmo to learn the basics of lense operation and exposure. Later I will probably trade/sell this equipment toward a more complex unit. I figure baby steps is the way to go and I'm in no hurry. I'll be using many of the external tools to shoot instead of relying on the camera's "Brains".

You may see in 6mo. or so a sale on an Elmo 1012S-XL package :)

Figure I'll give it that long before I'm thirsting for more.

Thanks!

Rod

I bought a working Yashika Super 825 at the Goodwill for $2.99 the other day but it is missing the lense (it unscrews).

If anyone has a broken or inoperable compatible camera and would like to part it out for the lense, Let me know! (PM would work best)

Thank you,

Rod

Be careful.

 

I just recently learned that if you accept an out of the country phone call you are billed at whatever rate the provider of that connection has set. Apparently some scams will bill you at hundreds of dollars per call if you accept the call, and I have heard it's allegedly legal. So it's also possible that by calling an 800 number, perhaps they have it rigged to automatically bill you? That is a scary thought, a booby trapped 880 number.

 

In your situation, if their PM isn't accepting messages, that is pretty suspicious since that is how they contacted you. Ask ADM how to handle the situation, but don't call that 800 number again!

Thank you. I will do that.

My first post was in the 8mm forums and I was inquiring about an Elmo 1012. This morning I recieved a PM from someone that signed up this morning and it was their first post. The Subject was Elmo 1012 and it was a request to call this person at their "Business"-- 800 number followed.

I called the number but they were not in. I tried to send them a PM but got an error (their box was set to not accept PM's)

Does this happen alot?

The 64T can still be used even if the camera sees it as ASA 25 or 40. Simply check the exposure in Auto mode then add (that means raise the f-stop to a higher f-stop number) approximately 1/2 to 2/3's of a stop from the automatic reading, this is called adding an "offset" to the automatic reading the camera is giving you. When you get your first cartridge of film back, check the results. If you think the result could have been better, slightly modify your manual f-stop offset adjustment to get a better result.

 

The Elmo 1012S-XL (oops, I think I called it an XLS previously) camera has an excellent manual exposure dial, it actually can be set even if the camera has no batteries in it!

Well it sounds like I may be getting a pretty good deal. I have searched every pawn and second hand store from Seattle to Olympia (over 60 miles and a dozen towns) and not a single usable camera to be found. Was able to pick up a nice Revere 40 (for collecting) and a working Yashika Super 825 sans lense at the Goodwill along the way. I figure $2.99 each was worth working models :) Good cameras sure are pricey on the auction sites. Sellers market I guess?

I'll be practicing with an independent light meter and shooting indoor and outdoor.

I'll be doing some 16mm camera work in about a year. I want to start with the Super8 and use that to learn my P's and Q's (or is it 5C's now) then move up to the Bigger Guns. I will be lurking and absorbing :)

Thanks!

Rod

It's probably one of the best non-beginners camera on the market that is relatively easy to use yet has many of the features found on the best super-8 cameras out there. Because it was also a sound camera, it has slightly less camera features on it that are non-sound related. For instance, the slow motion speed is only 36 frames per second, whereas high end silent cameras usually offer 45 or 54 FPS.

 

I don't recall if this camera has time-lapse, but it does have a very reliable single frame mode. This camera actually recorded sound in the single frame mode if one was using sound film, a very unique function to say the least.

 

The Elmo 1012XLS camera (10 is the zoom ratio of 10-1, 12 means f 1.2) has a very nice macro focus system. One can macro focus while in the telephoto position, and the zoom lens on this camera is a very healthy ratio of 10-1. If you get this camera do not put it on a cheapie tripod as the lens is big and heavy enough to actually cause a lightweight tripod to tip over if one were to accidentally unlock the tilt pan option and walk away from the camera.

Thank you very much for the description. I'll get to monkey with it tomorrow afternoon and see if it's as he described. It belonged to a friends father who passed away.

I have a cart of 64T and really hope this works out -- $185 seems like a good price.

If not I'll probably see if I can snatch an 814 cannon somewhere.

Thanks again!

Rod

Once you master it you're golden, it will be difficult to master, but not impossible and probably worth it.

Thank you! I love a challenge but wouldn't want to try walking down the up escalator :)

One last thing; Is the 1012S-XL compatible with the Kodak 64T? From what I've seen, this is the only Super8 available from them.

Please correct me if I am wrong!

Thank you,

Rod

I have an opportunity to pick up an Elmo 1012S-XL for under $200 in a very complete package (power pack, mic, case, etc). The camera is in fine working order.

Is this camera good for an 8mm beginner? Should I be looking for anything in particular (good/bad) with this camera?

Thank you!

Rod